J,   Henry  Senger 


THE 

NURSERY-BOOK 

A  COMPLETE  GUIDE 

TO   THE 

Multiplication  and  Pollination  of  Plants 


By  L  H.  RAlEBfi  \  >" 


NEW  YORK  : 

THE  RURAL  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 
1891 


AGRI 
LIBRARY 


5aw<?  Author. 


Horticulturist's  Rule-Book, 

A  Compendium  of  Useful  Information 
for  Fruit  Growers,  Truck  Gardeners, 
Florists  and  others.  New  edition,  com- 
pleted to  the  close  of  1890.  Pp.  250. 
Library  edition,  cloth,  $i.  Pocket  edi- 
tion, paper,  50  cents. 


Annals  of  Horticulture 

FOR    THE 'YEARS    1889    AND    1890. 

A  Witness  of  Passing  Events,  and  a 
Record  of  Progress.  Being  records  of 
introductions  during  the  year,  of  new 
methods  and  ,  discoveries  in  horticul- 
tufc, jSf ryfckjs tanjl  prices,  horticultural 
lj,tet^ture;£t(d  work  of  the  experiment 
stations,  necrology,  etc.  Illustrated.  2 
\4oj9%.  .Library  edition,  cloth,  $i  per  vol. 
•Pocket  Jeditjotf, -paper,  50  cents  per  vol. 


IN  MEMOR1AM 


COPYRIGHTED    1891, 
BY    U.    H.    BAILEY. 


ELECTROTYPEO    t 
9Y    J.     HORACE    M'FARLAN 


ID    PRINTED 

>,     HARRIS  BURG,    PA. 


PREFACE. 


THIS  little  handbook  aims  at  nothing  more  :han  an 
account  of  the  methods  commonly  employed   in 
the  propagation  and  crossing  of    plants,  and  its 
province  does  not  extend,  therefore,  to  the  discussion  of 
any  of  the  ultimate  results  or  influences  of  these  methods. 
All  such  questions  as  those  relating  to  the  formation  of 
buds,  the  reciprocal  influences  of  cion  and  stock,  com- 
parative advantages  of  whole  and  piece  roots,  and  the  re- 
sults of  pollination,  do  not  belong  here. 

In  its  preparation  I  have  consulted  freely  all  the  best 
literature  of  the  subject,  and  I  have  been  aided  by  many 
persons.  The  entire  volume  has  been  read  by  skilled 
propagators,  so  that  even  all  such  directions  as  are  com- 
monly recommended  in  other  countries  have  also  been 
sanctioned,  if  admitted,  as  best  for  this.  In  the  propa- 
gation of  trees  and  shrubs  and  other  hardy  ornamentals, 
I  have  had  the  advice  of  the  head  propagator  of  one  of 
the  largest  nurseries  in  this  country.  The  whole  volume 
has  also  passed  through  the  hands  of  B.  M.  Watson,  Jr., 
of  the  Bussey  Institution  of  Harvard  University,  a 
teacher  of  unusual  skill  and  experience  in  this  direction, 
and  who  has  added  greatly  to  the  value  of  the  book. 
The  articles  upon  orchids  and  upon  most  of  the  different 
genera  of  orchids  in  the  Nursery  List,  have  been  con- 


4  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

tributed  by  W.  J.  Bean,  of  the  Royal  Gardens,  Kew, 
who  is  well  known  as  an  orchid  specialist.  I  have  drawn 
freely  upon  the  files  of  magazines,  both  domestic  and 
foreign,  and  I  have  made  particular  use  of  Nicholson's  Il- 
lustrated Dictionary  of  Gardening,  Vilmorin's  Les  Fleurs 
de  Pleine  Terre,  Le  Bon  Jardinier,  and  Riimpler's  Illus- 
triertes  Gartenbau-Lexikon. 

It  is  believed  that  the  Nursery  List  contains  all  the 
plants  which  are  ordinarily  grown  by  horticulturists  in 
this  country  either  for  food  or  ornament.  But  in  order 
to  give  some  clew  to  the  propagation  of  any  which  are 
omitted,  an  ordinal  index  has  been  added,  by  which  one 
can  search  out  plants  of  a  given  natural  order  or 
family.  It  cannot  be  hoped  that  the  book  is  complete,  or 
that  the  directions  are  in  every  case  best  for  all  regions, 
and  any  corrections  or  additions  which  will  be  useful  in 
the  preparation  of  a  second  edition  are  solicited. 

L.  H.  BAILEY. 
ITHACA,  N.  Y.,  Jan.  i,  1891. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 
SEEDAGE 9-24 

Regulation  of  Moisture  . 9 

Requirements  of  Temperature 14 

Preparatory  Treatment  of  Seeds 15 

Sowing .    .  -19 

Miscellaneous  Matters 21 

Spores 24 

CHAPTER  II. 
SEPARATION 25-3 1 

CHAPTER  III. 
LAYERAGE 32-38 

CHAPTER  IV. 

CUTTAGE 39-62 

Devices  for  Regulating  Heat  and  Moisture 39 

Soils  and  General  Methods 46 

Particular  Methods— Kinds  of  Cuttings 51 

1.  Tuber  Cuttings 52 

2.  Root  Cuttings 53 

3.  Stem  Cuttings 54 

4.  Leaf  Cuttings 60 

CHAPTER  V. 
GRAFTAGE 63-96 

General  Considerations 63 

Particular  Methods .    .  67 

Budding .67 

Grafting -     76 

Grafting  Waxes 92 


6  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

CHAPTER  VI. 
THE  NURSERY  LIST   97-285 

CHAPTER  VII. 
POLLINATION 286-298 

General  Requirements 287 

Methods 291 

Crossing  of  Flowerless  Plants 297 


NURSERY. — An  establishment  for  tie  rearing  of 
plants.  In  ^America  the  word  is  commonly  used  in 
connection  with  the  propagation  of  woody  plants 
only,  as  fruit  trees  and  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs. 
This  is  erroneous.  The  word  properly  includes  the 
propagation  of  all  plants  by  whatever  means,  and 
in  this  sense  it  is  used  in  this  book. 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK, 


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CHAPTER  I. 


SEEDAGE. 

Seedage. — The  process  or  operation  of  propagating  by  seeds  or  spores, 
or  the  state  or  condition  of  being  propagated  by  seeds  or  spores. 

THERE  are  three  external  requisites  to  the  germination  of 
seeds — moisture,  free  oxygen,   and  a  definite   tempera- 
ture.    These  requisites  are  demanded  in  different  degrees 
and  proportions  by  seeds  of  different  species,  or  even  by  seeds 
of  the  same  species  when  differing  widely  in  age  or  degree  of 
maturity.     The  supply  of  oxygen  usually  regulates  itself.     It  is 
only  necessary  that  the  seeds  shall  not  be  planted  too  deep,  that 
the  soil   is  porous  and  not  overloaded  with   water.     Moisture 
and  temperature,  however,  must  be  carefully  regulated. 

Regulation  of  Moisture.— Moisture  is  the  most  important 
factor  in  seedage.  It  is  usually  applied  to  the  seeds  by  means 
of  soil  or  some  similar  medium,  as 
moss  or  cocoanut  fiber.  Fresh  and  vig- 
orous seeds  endure  heavy  waterings, 
but  old  and  poor  seeds  must  be  treated 
sparingly.  If  there  is  reason  to  sus- 
pect jtrrat> '.the  "seeds  are'w^ak,  water 
shquld  not  I3e  "applied  to  them  directly. 
A  favofeit^  m^third  of  ^h?mdliing  them  is 
to  sow\hea?  m'a  p\??cxf  iobse;  a!n,3  sandy 

loam  which  is  set  inside  a  Iar8er  Pot' 
the  intermediate  space  being  filled  with 

moss,  to  which,  alone,  the  water  is  ap- 
plied. This  device  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  i.  The  water  soaks 
through  the  walls  of  the  inner  pot  and  is  supplied  gradually  and 

N. 


10  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

constantly  to  the  soil.  Even  in  this  case  it  is  necessary  to  pre- 
vent soaking  the  moss  too  thoroughly,  especially  with  very  weak 
seeds.  When  many  pots  are  required,  they  may  be  simply 
plunged  in  moss  with  the  same  effect.  The  soil  should  be 
simply  very  slightly  moist,  never  wet.  Moisture  is  sometimes 
supplied  by  setting  the  seed-pot  in  a  shallow  saucer  of  water,  or 
it  may  be  sufficient  to  simply  place  it  in  the  humid  atmosphere  of 
a  propagating-box.  Large  seeds  may  be  laid  upon  the  surface 
of  the  soil  in  a  half-filled  pot,  covered  with  thin  muslin,  and 
then  covered  with  loose  and  damp  loam.  Every  day  the  pot 
is  inverted,  the  covering  taken  off  and  fresh  soil  is  added.  A 
modification  of  this  plan  for  small  seeds  can  be  made  by  placing 
the  seeds  between  two  layers  of  thin  muslin  and  inserting  them 
in  damp  loam,  which  is  frequently  renewed  to  avoid  the  ex- 
tremes which  would  result  from  watering  or  from  allowing  the 
soil  to  become  dry.  In  these  last  operations,  no  water  is  applied 
to  the  seeds  and  they  constitute  one  of  the  most  satisfactory 
methods  of  dealing  with  seeds  of  low  vitality.  They  are  essen- 
tially the  methods  long  ago  used  by  Knight,  who  laid  such  seeds 
between  two  sods  cut  from  an  old  and  dry  pasture. 

Even  sound  and  strong  seeds  should  be  watered  with  care. 
Drenchings  usually  weaken  or  destroy  them.  The  earth  should 
be  kept  simply  damp.  To  insure  comparative  dryness  in  in-door 
culture,  some  loose  material,  as  pieces  of  broken  pots  or 
clinkers,  should  be  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot  or  box  to 
afford  drainage.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind,  however,  that  the 
seed  bed  should  be  approximately  equally  moist  throughout  its 
depth.  .The.* waterings/ sjhOi>M',  ttterefore  be  copious  enough  to 
moisten  th£  scnl  throughout.  "  A*  wet  or  moist  surface  over  a  dry 
substraturn,  sjiowl^.  .always  *be/.  avoided.  Error  is  common 
here.  .V2U»is,7i£suajfy.l9esl  fib.  appl'y**  water  with  a  watering-pot,  as 
watering  with  a  hose  is  apt  to  wash  out  the  seeds  and  to  pack 
the  soil,  and  the  quantity  of  water  is  not  so  easily  regulated. 

At  first  thought,  it  would  appear  that  the  apparently  good 
results  following  soaking  of  seeds  in  many  cases,  are  a  contra- 
diction of  these  statements  that  seeds  may  be  over-watered.  But 
soaking  is  usually  beneficial  only  when  practiced  for  a  compara- 


SEEDAGE.  H 

tively  short  time.  It  is  not  good  practice  to  soak  delicate  seeds 
before  sowing,  and  it  is  of  doubtful  utility  in  most  other  cases, 
unless  it  is  necessary  to  soften  the  integuments  of  hard-shelled 
species,  as  discussed  on  page  17.  The  gain  in  rapidity  of  germin- 
ation following  soaked,  as  compared  with  dry  seeds,  is  really 
fictitious,  inasmuch  as  germination  actually  begins  in  the  soaked 
seeds  before  the  dry  samples  are  sown.  The  soaked  seeds  are 
sown  in  water  rather  than  in  soil,  and  as  conditions  are  more 
uniform  there,  a  gain  apparently  due  to  soaking  may  result.  In 
the  case  of  strong  seeds  which  must  be  planted  out-doors  in 
cold  or  uncongenial  soil,  a  preliminary  soaking  of  from  12  to  24 
hours  may  be  beneficial,  as  it  lessens  the  period  which  the  seeds 
would  otherwise  pass  in  untoward  conditions.  But  soaked  seeds, 
unless  of  very  hardy  species,  should  never  be  sown  out-doors 
until  the  soil  has  become  rather  dry  and  warm. 

To  prevent  too  rapid  drying  out,  the  soil  should  be  firmly 
pressed  about  the  seeds.  The  pot  or  box  should  be  given 
a  shady  place,  or  some  covering  may  be  applied  to  check 
evaporation.  A  pane  of  glass  is  often  placed  over  the  box, 
being  tilted  a  little  at  intervals  to  allow  of  ventilation  and 
to  prevent  the  soil  from  becoming  soggy  or  "sour."  A  -seed- 
case,  with  a  glass  cover,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2, 
is  neat  and  handy  in  the  treatment  of  small 
seeds.  A  thin  covering  of  fine  moss  is  some- 
times given,  or  a  newspape'r  may  be  thrown 
over  the  soil. 

In  out-door  culture,  only  a  naturally  dry 
and  well  drained  soil  should  be  chosen  for 
Fig.  2.    Seed-Case,     all  ordinary  seeds,  especially  for  such  as  are 
sown  in  the  fall  or  remain  in  the  ground  a 
long  time  before  germinating.     Soils  which  contain  a  liberal 
amount    of    sand    or    gravel    are    especially    valuable    for    this 
purpose. 

To  prevent  drying  in  out-door  culture,  it  is  important  that  the 
earth  be  well  firmed  over  the  seeds.  Walking  on  the  row,  plac- 
ing one  foot  directly  ahead  of  the  other,  is  usually  the  most 
expeditious  and  satisfactory  operation,  at  least  with  large  seeds. 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Or  the  earth  may  be  firmed  with  a  hoe  or  the  back  of  a  spade, 
or  a  board  may  be  placed  upon  the  row  and  then  be  thoroughly 
settled  by  walking  over  it.  In  the  sowing  of  celery  and  other 
small  and  slow  seeds,  it  is  a  frequent  practice  to  leave  the  board 
on  the  row  until  the  seeds  appear  in  order  to  hold  the  moisture. 
This  is  a  doubtful  expedient,  however,  for  the  young  plants  are 
apt  to  be  quickly  dispatched  by  the  sun  when  the  board  is 
removed.  If  the  board  is  employed,  it  should  be  raised  an  inch 
or  two  from  the  ground  as  soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  appear. 
But  the  shade  of  the  board  is  too  dense  and  plants  do  not  grow 
stocky  under  it.  It  is  better  to  use  brush  or  lath  screens  if  pro- 
tection is  desired  ;  or  fine  litter,  if  free  from  weed  seeds,  may  be 
used.  In  most  cases,  however,  screens  will  not  be  needed  by 
celery  and  similar  seeds  if  the  ground  is  in  the  proper  condition 
and  is  well  firmed  at  planting  time.  It  is  always  advisable, 
nevertheless,  to  place  the  beds  for  slow  and  small  seeds  where 
they  can  be  watered  occasionally. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  sci^eens  in  use  to  prevent  the  dry- 
ing out  of  small  seeds  in  out-door  seedage  and  to  protect  the 

young  seedlings. 
These  are  used  also 
in  the  shading  of  cut- 
tings. The  common 
lath  screen  (Fig.  3)  is 
the  most  useful  for 
general  purposes.  It 
is  simply  a  square 
frame  made  from 
common  laths  laid  at 
right  angles  in  a 
double  series.  The 
interstices  between 

the  laths  are  equal  in  width  to  the  laths  themselves.  These 
screens  are  laid  horizontally  upon  a  light  frame-work  a  few 
inches  above  the  seeds.  The  passage  of  the  sun  constantly 
moves  the  shadows  over  the  bed,  and  sufficient  shade  is  afforded 
while  thorough  ventilation  is  allowed.  This  and  all  other  ele- 


3.     Lath  Cscrten. 


SEEDAGE. 


vated  screens  are  useful  in  shading  and  protecting  the  young 
plants  as  well,  but  when  used  for  this  purpose  they  are  usually 
raised  a  greater  distance  above  the  beds.  A  brush  screen  con- 


sisting  of  a  low  frame  covered  with  boughs,  is  often  used,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  4.  This  is  cheaper  than  the  lath  screens,  and  is 
equally  as  good  for  most  purposes.  The  brush  is  often  laid 
directly  upon  the  ground,  especially  in  large  beds.  This  answers 
the  purpose  of  shading,  but  it  does  not  allow  of  weeding  and  it 
must  be  taken  off  soon  after  the  seeds  germinate,  or  slender 
plants  will  be  injured  in  its  removal.  Brush  screens  are  some- 
times raised  three  or  four  feet  to  allpw  of  weeding.  A  screen 
for  frames  is  shown  in  Fig.  5.  It  is  a  simple  covering  of 
muslin  stretched  over  the  top  and  sides  of  a  rough  frame-work. 
The  cloth  is  usually  omitted  from  the  front  side.  This  style  of 
screens  is  much  used  by  nurserymen,  especially  for  cutting  beds. 


Fig.  5.     Screen  for  Frames. 

Whitewashing  the  sashes  also  affords  good  shading,      A  more 
elaborate  and  permanent  screen  is  shown  in  Fig.  6.     It  is  built 


3  4 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


of  slats,  usually  3-inch  stuff.  This  shed  screen  is  oftenest  used 
for  the  protection  of  tender  plants,  but  it  affords  an  exceedingly 
useful  and  convenient  place  for  the  storage  of  pots  and  boxes  of 
slow-germinating  seeds. 


Fig.  6.     Shed  Screen. 

Various  frames  and  covers  are  employed  for  in-door  seedage, 
but  they  are  designed  to  regulate  atmospheric  moisture  and  to 
control  temperature.  They  are  more  commonly  employed  in 
the  growing  of  cuttings,  and  are  therefore  described  in  Chap- 
ter IV. 

Requirements  of  Temperature. — Variations  in  temperature 
exercise  less  influence  upon  seeds  than  variations  in  moisture. 
Yet  it  is  important  that  the  extremes  of  temperature  should  not 
be  great,  especially  in  small,  delicate  or  weak  seeds.  Seeds  will 
endure  greater  extremes  of  temperature  when  dry  than  when 
moist.  This  indicates  that  germinating  seeds  must  be  kept  in  a 
comparatively  uniform  temperature.  For  this  reason  it  is  poor 
practice  to  place  seed-boxes  in  a  window  in  full  sunlight.  Partial 
or  complete  shade  serves  the  double  purpose  of  preventing  too 
great  heat  and  too  rapid  evaporation.  Various  covered  seed- 
boxes  are  used  for  the  purpose  of  maintaining  approximately 
the  required  temperature,  but  as  they  are  oftener  used  in  bud- 
propagation,  they  are  discussed  in  that  connection. 

Bottom  heat  is  helpful  to  germination  in  most  seeds,  but,  except 
in  the  case  of  certain  tropical  species,  it  should  not  be  strong. 
It  is  a  common  practice  to  place  the  seed-boxes  on  moderately 
cool  pipes  under  benches  in  a  greenhouse.  Seeds  of  hardy 
annuals  and  perennials  do  not  require  bottom  heat,  although 


SEED  AGE.  I5 

they  may  be  benefited  by  it.  If  the  soil  in  seed  beds  should 
become  too  cool,  watering  with  warm  or  tepid  water  will  be 
found  helpful. 

It  is  impossible  to  give  rules  for  the  determination  of  the  proper 
temperature  for  different  kinds  of  seeds.  In  general,  it  may  be 
said  that  seeds  germinate  most  rapidly  at  a  temperature  a  few 
degrees  above  that  required  for  the  best  development  of  the 
plant  itself.  Hardy  plants  require  a  temperature  of  from  50° 
to  70°,  conservatory  plants  from  60°  to  75°  or  80°,  and  tropical 
or  stove  plants  from  75°  to  95.°  The  plantlets  should  be  re- 
moved from  these  highest  temperatures,  as  a  rule,  as  soon  as 
germination  is  completed, 

In  out-door  culture,  depth  of  planting  has  a  direct  relation  to 
temperature.  Seeds  may  be  planted  deeper  late  in  the  season 
than  early,  when  the  soil  is  cold  and  damp.  Deep  planting 
probably  as  often  kills  seeds  because  of  the  absence  of  suffi- 
cient heat  as  from  the  lack  of  oxygen  or  the  great  depth  of 
earth  through  which  the  plantlet  is  unable  to  push. 

Preparatory  Treatment  of  Seeds. — Many  seeds  demand 
some  treatment  preparatory  to  sowing.  Nearly  all  hard  and 
bony  seeds  fail  to  germinate,  or  at  least  germinate  very  irregu- 
larly, if  their  contents  are  allowed  to  become  thoroughly  dry 
and  hard.  The  shells  must  also  be  softened  or  broken  in  many 
cases  before  the  embryo  can  grow.  Nature  treats  such  seeds  by 
keeping  them  constantly  moist  under  leaves  or  mold,  and  by 
cracking  them  with  frost.  This  suggests  the  practice  known  to 
gardeners  as  stratification,  an  operation  which  consists  in  mixing 
seeds  with  earth  and  exposing  them  to  frost  or  to  moisture  for  a 
considerable  time. 

Stratification  is  practiced,  as  a  rule,  with  all  nuts,  the  seeds  of 
forest  trees,  shrubs,  the  pips  of  haws  and  often  of  roses,  and 
in  many  cases  with  the  seeds  of  common  fruits.  It  should  be  per- 
formed as  soon  as  possible  after  the  seeds  are  mature.  Small 
seeds  are  usually  placed  in  thin  layers  in  a  box  alternating  with  an 
inch  or  two  of  sand.  Sometimes  the  seeds  are  mixed  indiscrimi- 
nately in  the  sand,  but  unless  they  are  large  it  is  difficult  to 
separate  them  out  at  sowing  time.  The  sand  is  often  sown  with 


1 6  THE  NURSERY-BOOK- 

the  seeds,  however,  but  it  is  difficult  in  such  cases  to  distribute 
the  seeds  evenly,  and  in  sowing  large  quantities  the  handling  of 
the  sand  entails  a  considerable  burden  and  becomes  an  item  of 
expense.  It  is  advisable  to  pass  the  sand  through  a  sieve  of 
finer  mesh  than  the  seeds,  and  the  seeds  can  then  be  sifted 
out  at  sowing  time.  If  the  seeds  are  very  small  or  very  few  in 
number  they  may  be  placed  between  folds  of  thin  muslin,  which 
is  then  laid  in  the  sand.  Any  shallow  box,  like  a  gardener's 
"flat,"  is  useful  in  making  stratifications,  or  with  small  lots  of 
seeds  pots  may  be  used.  A  flat  four  inches  deep  might  contain 
two  or  three  layers  or  strata  of  seeds  the  size  of  peas. 

The  disposition  of  the  boxes  when  filled  varies  with  different 
operators.  Some  prefer  to  bury  them.  In  this  case  a  well- 
drained  sandy  slope  is  chosen.  The  flats  are  placed  in  a  trench 
from  one  to  two  feet  deep,  covered  with  a  single  thickness  of 
boards,  and  the  trench  is  then  filled  with  earth.  The  seeds 
usually  freeze  somewhat,  although  freezing  is  not  considered 
necessary  unless  in  the  case  of  nut-like  seeds.  The  object  at- 
tained in  burying  is  to  keep  the  seeds  moist  and  fresh,  inducing 
the  rotting  or  softening  of  the  coverings,  while  they  are  buried 
so  deep  that  they  will  not  sprout.  Seeds  of  most  forest  trees 
should  be  treated  in  this  manner.  They  are  commonly  left  in 
the  ground  until  the  second  spring,  when  they  are  taken  up  and 
sown  in  drills  in  mellow  ground.  If  good  loam  to  which  has 
been  added  a  little  well  rotted  manure  is  used,  the  seeds  or  nuts 
of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  allowed  to  germinate  and 
grow  for  one  season  in  the  flats.  At  the  end  of  the  season  or 
the  next  spring  the  plants  can  be  transplanted  without  losing 
one.  This  is,  perhaps,  the  best  way  to  handle  rare  and  difficult 
subjects. 

Many  growers  place  the  boxes  on  the  surface  in  some  pro- 
tected place,  as  under  trees  or  in  a  shed,  and  cover  them  a  foot 
deep  with  clean  straw  or  leaves..  This  is  a  good  method  for  all 
seeds  which  are  to  be  sown  the  following  spring,  as  those  of 
many  fruits.  If  boxes  are  piled  on  top  each  other  they  should 
be  mulched  with  moss,  else  the  under  ones  may  become  too  dry. 
Or  the  boxes  may  be  placed  without  covering  in  a  shed,  but  they 


SEED  AGE.  ij 

must  be  examined  occasionally  to  see  that  they  do  not  become 
too  dry.  Precaution  must  also  be  taken  to  keep  away  mice, 
squirrels,  blue- jays  and  other  intruders. 

Large  nut-like  seeds  or  fruits,  like .  peach-pits,  walnuts  and 
hickory-nuts,  are  usually  buried  in  sand  or  light  loam  where  they 
will  freeze.  Or  sometimes  the  large  nuts  are  thrown  into  a  pile 
with  earth  and  allowed  to  remain  on  the  surface.  Freezing 
serves  a  useful  purpose  in  aiding  to  crack  the  shells,  but  it  is  not 
essential  to  subsequent  germination,  as  is  commonly  supposed. 
All  seeds,  so  far  as  known,  can  be  grown  without  the  agency  of 
frost  if  properly  handled. 

Fall  sowing  amounts  to  stratification,  but  unless  the  soil  is  mel- 
low and  very  thoroughly  drained  the  practice  is  not  advisable. 
The  seeds  are  liable  to  be  heaved  or  washed  out,  eaten  by  vermin, 
and  the  soil  is  apt  to  bake  over  them.  Under  proper  conditions, 
however,  the  seeds  of  fruits  and  many  forest  trees  thrive  well 
under  fall  sowing.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  they 
are  ripe,  even  if  in  mid-summer  ;  or  if  the  ground  is  not  ready 
for  them  at  that  time,  they  may  be  temporarily  stratified  to  pre- 
vent too  great  hardening  of  the  parts.  It  is  best,  however,  to 
allow  all  green  or  moist  seeds  to  dry  off  a  few  days  before  they 
are  stratified.  Fall  sown  seeds  should  always  be  mulched. 

Some  seeds  rarely  germinate  until  the  second  year  after 
maturity,  even  with  the  best  of  treatment.  The  thorns,  moun- 
tain ash,  hollies,  viburnums,  some  roses,  and  many  others 
belong  to  this  category.  Some  growers  sow  them  regularly  as 
soon  as  they  are  ripe  and  allow  the  beds  to  remain  until  the 
seeds  appear.  This  is  a  waste  of  land  and  of  labor  in  weeding, 
and  the  best  way  is  to  stratify  them  and  allow  them  to  remain 
until  the  second  spring  before  sowing, 

Partial  substitutes  for  stratification  are  soaking  and  scalding 
the  seeds.  Soaking  may  be  advantageously  practiced  in  the  case 
of  slow  and  hard  seeds,  which  are  not  enclosed  in  bony  shells, 
and  which  have  been  allowed  to  become  dry.  Seeds  of  apple, 
locust  and  others  of  similar  character,  are  sometimes  treated 
in  this  manner.  They  are  soaked  for  24  or  36  hours,  and  it  is 
commonly  supposed  that  if  they  are  exposed  to  a  sharp  frost  in 


1 8  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

the  meantime,  better  results  will  follow.  While  still  wet  the 
seeds  are  sown.  Scalding  water  may  be  poured  over  locust 
and  other  seeds  to  soften  their  covering.  But 
seeds  should  not  be  boiled,  as  sometimes 
recommended. 

The    germination    of    bony   seeds   is   often 
facilitated  by  filing  or  cutting  away  the  shell 
very    carefully  near  the  germ,  or  by  boring 
Fig  7     Bored  Seed-   tnem-     A  bored  nelumbium  seed  is  shown  in 

Fig.  7. 

Treatment  with  various  chemicals  has  been  recommended  for 
the  purpose  of  softening  integuments,  and  also  for  some  power 
which  strong  oxidizing  agents  are  supposed  to  exert  in  hasten- 
ing germination  itself,  but  the  advantages  are  mostly  imaginary. 
Secret  and  patented  "germinator"  compounds  had  better  be 
avoided. 

Pulpy  and  fleshy  coverings  should  be  removed  from  seeds 
before  sowing.  Soft  fruits,  like  berries,  are  broken  up  or 
ground  into  a  pulp  and  the  seeds  are  then  washed  out.  This 
separation  may  be  performed  immediately  in  some  cases,  but 
when  the  pulp  adheres  to  the  seed,  the  whole  mass  is  usually 
allowed  to  stand  until  fermentation  and  partial  decay  has 
liberated  the  seeds.  The  pulp  will  then  rise,  in  most  instances, 
leaving  the  seeds  at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  Seeds  can  be 
liberated  quickly  by  adding  a  stick  of  caustic  potash  to  each  pail 
of  water.  After  the  mass  has  stood  an  hour  or  so,  the  seeds  can 
be  rubbed  out  easily.  Kven  tomato  seeds  can  be  cleaned  with 
safety  in  this  manner,  Seeds  which  have  thin  coverings,  as  the 
viburnums  and  many  haws,  can  be  prepared  by  rubbing  them 
through  the  hands  with  sharp  sand.  Or  the  sca'nt  pulp  of  such 
seeds  may  be  allowed  to  rot  off  in  the  stratification  box.  Fleshy 
coverings  of  hard  and  bony  seeds  may  be  removed  by  macera- 
tion. Allow  them  to  stand  in  water  at  a  temperature  of  about 
75°  for  one  to  three  weeks,  and  then  wash  them  out.  Resin- 
ous coverings  are  sometimes  removed  by  mixing  the  seeds  with 
fresh  ashes  or  lime,  or  by  treating  them  with  lye.  Hard,  thick- 
walled  seeds  are  rarely  injured  by  the  decay  of  the  pulpy  cover- 


SEED  A  G  E,  ig 

ing,  but  thin-walled  seeds  should  be  cleaned,  to  avoid  the  possi. 
bility  of  damaging  them.* 

Sowing. — The  soil  in  which  seeds  are  sown,  especially  in  in- 
door culture,  should  be  such  as  to  allow  of  perfect  drainage  and 
at  the  same  time  to  hold  moisture.  Good  potting  soil,  with  a 
liberal  allowance  of  sharp  sand,  is  the  best  for  general  purposes. 
Pure  sand  becomes  too  dense,  and  leaf  mold  alone  is  usually  too 
loose  and  open.  A  proper  combination  of  the  two  corrects  both 
faults.  It  is  impossible  to  describe  a  good  potting  or  seed-bed 
soil.  Some  experience  is  essential  to  the  best  results  in  prepar- 
ing it.  It  should  be  of  such  character  that  when  a  damp  por- 
tion is  firmly  compressed  in  the  hand  it  will  fall  apart  when 
released.  It  should  never  bake.  Good  old  garden  loam,  to 
which  an  equal  quantity  of  sand  has  been  added,  is  usually  a 
good  soil  for  common  in-door  seedage.  There  should  be  no 
manure  in  soil  used  for  seeds  which  produce  a  delicate  growth, 
as  rhododendrons  and  kalmias.  In  all  such  cases,  rotted  sod  or 
leafy  peat  forms  the  best  basis.  The  soil  should  be  sifted  and 
thoroughly  fined  before  seeds  are  put  into  it.  Seeds  usually  re- 
quire lighter  soil  than  that  in  which  the  growing  plant  will  flour- 
ish. Cocoanut  fiber  is  sometimes  used  in  place  of  the  soil,  as  it 
holds  moisture,  allows  of  almost  perfect  drainage,  and  does  not 
become  "sour."  Fine  dead  sphagnum  moss  may  also  be  used. 
Orchid  seeds  are  usually  sown  on  the  live  moss  in  which  the 
parent  plant  is  growing  ;  or  they  may  be  sown  on  damp  wood  or 
cork.  (See  uader  Orchids,  Chap.  VI.)  Small  seeds,  like  those 
of  cineraria  and  calceolaria,  germinate  well  in  very  old  cow- 
dung  obtained  from  a  pasture  ;  the  unctuous  matters  have  dis- 
appeared, leaving  a  fibrous  remainder..  But  all  things  con- 
sidered, well-prepared  soil  is  the  most  satisfactory  medium 
which  can  be  used.  Seeds  of  aquatic  plants  which  are  to  be 
sown  in  a  pond  may  be  placed  in  a  ball  of  clay  and  dropped 
into  the  water. 


*An  admirable  paper  upon  the  propagation  of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs 
from  seeds  and  the  treatment  of  the  young  seedlings,  by  Jackson  Dawson, 
may  be  found  in  Trans.  Mass.  Hort.  Soc.  1885,  part  I,  145,  and  also  in  Rep. 
Sec.  Mass.  Bd.  Agr.  1885,  468. 


20  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Shallow  boxes  or  "flats"  and  earthen  seed-pans  and  lily-pans 
are  usually  preferable  to  pots  in  which  to  grow  seeds.  They 
give  more  surface  in  proportion  to  their  contents  and  require 
less  attention  in  drainage.  If  pots  are  used,  the  four  to 
six-inch  sizes  are  best. 

If  delicate  seeds  are  sown  out-doors,  they  should  be  given 
some  protection,  if  possible.  An  ordinary  hot-bed  frame  gives 
the  best  results.  In  warm  weather  or  a  sunny  exposure  it  will 
be  found  desirable  to  substitute  a  cloth  screen  for  the  sash.  A 
thin  or  medium  water-proof  plant  cloth,  either  commercial  or 
home-made,  is  excellent  for  this  purpose.  It  may  be  tacked  upon 
a  simple  and  light  rectangular  frame  which  is  strengthened  at 
the  corners  by  iron  "carriage-corners."  These  cloth-covered 
frames  are  handy  for  many  purposes,  particularly  for  protecting 
and  supplying  some  warmth  to  seed-pans  and  young  seedlings. 

It  is  essential  that  good  drainage  be  given  all  in-door  seed- 
pots  or  seed-beds.  A  layer  of  broken  pots  or  other  coarse 
material  is  placed  on  the  bottom.  Many  growers  place  a  thin 
layer  of  fine  dead  sphagnum  moss  or  of  peat  over  this  drainage 
material, -and  it  certainly  makes  a  useful  addition.  It  is  particu- 
larly useful  in  isolated  pots  or  small  boxes,  as  it  holds  enough 
moisture  to  prevent  too  rapid  drying  out,  while  all  surplus  water 
is  quickly  taken  off  by  the  coarse  material  beneath.  Over  the 
moss  coarse  siftings  from  the  soil  may  be  placed,  while  on  top 
only  the  finest  and  best  soil  should  be  used.  The  smaller  the 
seeds,  the  more  care  must  be  exercised  in  the  sowing. 

The  proper  depth  for  sowing  varies  directly  with  the  size  of 
the  seed.  The  chief  advantage  of  very  fine  soil  for  small  seeds 
is  the  greater  exactness  of  depth  of  covering  which  it  allows. 
Very  small  seeds  should  be  sown  upon  the  surface,  which  has 
previously  been  well  firmed  and  levelled,  and  then  covered  with 
a  very  thin  layer  of  finely  sifted  soil  or  a  little  old  and  dead 
moss  rubbed  through  a  sieve.  This  covering  should  be  scarcely 
deeper  than  the  thickness  of  the  seeds  ;  that  is,  the  seeds  should 
be  barely  covered.  Many  prefer  pressing  the  seeds  into  the  soil 
with  a  block.  Or  if  one  has  a  close  propagating-box,  the  seeds 
may  remain  upon  the  surface  and  sufficient  moisture  will  be 


SEED  AGE.  2I 

supplied  from  the  atmosphere.  Such  fine  seeds  are  rarely 
watered  directly,  as  even  the  most  careful  treatment  would  be 
likely  to  dislodge  them.  The  soil  is  usually  well  watered  before 
the  seeds  are  sown,  or  moisture  may  be  supplied  by  inserting 
the  pot  in  water  nearly  to  its  rim  for  a  few  moments.  If  water 
is  applied  from  a  rose,  a  thin  cloth  should  first  be  spread  on  the 
soil  to  hold  it.  Celery  seeds,  in  out-door  beds,  are  often  sown 
upon  a  nicely  prepared  surface  and  are  then  pressed  in  by  means 
of  the  feet  or  a  board.  Some  cover  to  prevent  evaporation 
should  be  given  all  small  seeds.  This  may  be  a  board  or  a 
slate  slab  at  first,  but  as  soon  as  the  plants  appear  glass  should 
be  substituted  to  admit  light.  (See  pp.  n  to  14.) 

Large  seeds  demand  much  less  care  as  to  depth  of  covering, 
as  a  rule.  One-fourth  or  one-half  inch  is  a  good  depth  for  most 
coarse  seeds  in-doors.  If  one  wishes  to  guage  the  depth  accu- 
rately, the  drills  may  be  made  by  a  planting  stick,  like  that 
shown  in  Fig.  8.  Its  flange  is  made  of  the  required  thickness, 

and  it  is  pressed  into  the  soil 
until  the  cap  strikes  the  sur- 
face. This  is  a  useful  imple- 
ment in  seed  testing.  An- 
other device  for  regulating  the 

Fig.  8.    Planting  Stick.  dePth  of  sowing-  particularly 

in   seed  testing,   is    the  Tracy 

planter,  shown  in  Fig.  9.  It  consists  of  two  strips  of  heavy  tin 
plate  about  three  inches  wide,  hung  upon  two  wire  pivots  or 
hinges  some  two  inches  long.  At  their  upper  edges  and  equi- 
distant from  either  end,  the  plates  are  joined  by  a  firm  spiral 
spring,  which  serves  to  throw  the  upper  edges  apart,  and  to 
cause  the  lower  edges  to  join.  This  trough  is  now  filled  with 
the  required  number  of  seeds,  and  is  then  inserted  into  the  earth 
to  a  given  depth,  when  the  fingers  push  inward  on  the  spring 
and  the  trough  opens  and  delivers  the  seeds. 

Miscellaneous  Matters.— The  influence  which  light  exerts 
upon  germination  is  not  definitely  understood.  It  is  known, 
however,  that  seeds  will  often  germinate  in  full  sunlight,  if  the 
proper  conditions  of  moisture  and  temperature  can  be  main- 


22  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

tained.  Seeds  sown  upon  a  moist  surface  and  covered  with  a 
glass  present  an  interesting  study.  But  it  is  well  known,  on  the 
other  hand,  that  some  seeds  will  not  germinate,  or  will  at  least 


Fig.  9.    Tracy  Planter. 

appear  unevenly,  if  subjected  to  sunlight.  At  least  some  of  the 
delphiniums,  papavers  and  adonises  germinate  very  imperfectly, 
if  at  all,  in  direct  light.  It  is  always  advisable  to  keep  germin- 
ating seeds  in  shade  or  partial  darkness,  especially  as  there  is 
nothing  to  be  gained  by  exposing  them.  Of  course  the  soil 
itself  is  sufficent  protection  if  the  seeds  are  covered. 

It  is  a  common  statement  that  seeds  can  never  revive  if. 
allowed  to  become  thoroughly  dry  after  they  have  begun  to 
sprout.  This  is  an  error.  Wheat,  oats,  buckwheat,  maize, 
pea,  onion,  radish  and  other  seeds  have  been  experimented  upon 
in  this  direction,  and  they  are  found  to  re-germinate  readily, 
even  if  allowed  to  become  thoroughly  dry  and  brittle  after 
sprouting  is  well  progressed.  They  will  even  re-germinate 
several  times.  Wheat,  peas  and  other  seeds  have  been  carried 
through  so  many  as  seven  germinations  after  the  radicle  had 
grown  a  half  inch  or  more  and  the  seeds  had  been  sufficiently 
dried  in  each  trial  to  render  them  fit  for  grinding. 

Damping-off  is  a  common  ailment  of  young  seedlings  and 
cuttings.  The  stem  becomes  brown  and  constricted  at  or  near 
the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  it  soon  rots  and  falls  over.  The  top 
of  the  plant  often  remains  alive  and  fresh  for  several  days  after 
it  has  fallen.  A  fungus  is  supposed  to  cause  damping-off.  The 
conditions  which  seem  to  particularly  favor  the  development  of 
this  fungus  are  a  moist  and  close  atmosphere,  crowding  and 
careless  watering.  Plants  are  particularly  liable  to  damp-off  if 
only  sufficient  water  is  applied  to  keep  the  surface  moist  while 


SEED  AGE.  23 

the  under  soil  remains  dry.  Hot  sand,  sifted  over  the  plants, 
will  check  it,. but  there  is  no  complete  remedy.  Attention  to 
the  above  suggestions  will  serve  as  a  preventive. 

The  transportation  of  certain  kinds  of  seeds  over  long  dis- 
tances, especially  on  sea  voyages,  is  often  beset  with  difficulties. 
Thick-meated  or  soft  seeds  may  become  too  dry  if  stored  in  a 
warm  place  or  too  moist  if  stored  in  a  cool"  one.  The  humid 
atmosphere  of  the  ocean  is  fatal  to  some  seeds  unless  they  are 
well  protected,  and  the  moist  and  hot  climates  of  some  tropical 
countries  destroy  many  seeds  of  cooler  regions  before  they  can 
be  planted.  Thin-coated  seeds  demand  dryness  and  air,  and 
bony  seeds  usually  need  moisture  and  a  more  confined  atmos- 
phere. Most  seeds  may  be  sent  dry  and  loose  in  coarse  paper 
packages  under  all  ordinary  circumstances  ;  but  if  they  are  to 
traverse  very  hot  and  moist  climates,  they  should  be  sealed  in  tin 
cases  or  very  securely  wrapped  in  oiled  paper,  in  which  case 
the  seeds  should  be  thoroughly  dried  before  being  packed. 
Small  seeds  which  are  liable  to  become  moldy  may  be  packed 
in  finely  powdered  charcoal.  Apple  and  pear  seeds  are  often 
imported  in  this  manner.  The  seeds  or  fruits  of  woody  plants 
require  more  careful  management.  They  should  generally  be 
transported  in  some  sort  of  stratification.  A  favorite  method  is 
to  place  them  in  boxes  or  jars,  mixed  with  naturally  moist  sand 
or  sawdust,  or  slightly  moist  dead  sphagnum  moss.  Some  prefer 
to  seal  the  packages  hermetically,  but  under  ordinary  conditions 
this  is  unnecessary.  In  transit,  the  packages  should  be  stored  in 
a  medium  and  uniform  temperature.  Even  acorns,  which  are 
often  difficult  to  transport  over  long  voyages,  may  be  carried  in 
this  manner  with  safety.  It  is  important  that  the  soil  should  not 
be  wet.  Natural  soil  from  a  dryish  and  loamy  pasture  is  excel- 
lent. In  some  cases  it  is  better  to  sprout  the  seeds  in  the  native 
country  and  ship  the  seedlings  in  a  closed  or  Wardian  case. 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  actual  plantings  rarely  give 
so  good  results  as  seed  tests,  from  the  fact  that  conditions  are 
more  variable.  There  is  often  a  variation  of  over  fifty  per 
cent,  even  when  the  planting  has  been  carefully  done.  This  is 
proof  that  liberal  seeding  should  always  be  practiced. 


24  THE  NURSERY-BOOK, 

Spores. — Ferns,  lycopodiums  and  selaginellas  are  often  grown 
from  spores.  The  general  conditions  adapted  to  the  germina- 
tion of  seeds  are  also  suitable  for  the  germination  of  spores,  but 
extra  care  must  be  taken  with  the  drainage.  If  a  pot  is  used,  it 
should  be  half  or  more  filled  with  drainage  material,  and  the  soil 
should  be  rendered  loose  by  the  addition  of  bits  of  brick,  char- 
coal, cinders  or  other  porous  materials.  The  surface  soil 
should  be  fine  and  uniform.  Some  place  a  thin  layer  of  brick 
dust  upon  the  surface,  in  which  the  spores  are  sown.  It  is  a 
frequent  practice  to  bake  the  soil  to  destroy  other  spores 
which  might  cause  troublesome  growths.  The  spores  should  be 
sprinkled  upon  the  surface  and  should  not  be  covered.  The  pot 
should  be  set  in  a  saucer  of  water  and  it  should  be  covered  by 
paper  or  a  pane  of  glass  if  the  sun  strikes  it.  Better  results  are 
obtained  if  the  pot  or  pan  is  placed  inside  a  propagating-frame  or 
under  a  bell-glass.  In  place  of  earth,  a  block  or  small  cubes 
of  firm  peat  or  sandstone  may  be  employed.  The  block  is 
placed  in  a  saucer  of  water  and  the  spores  are  sown  upon  its  sur- 
face. Water  should  not  be  applied  directly  to  the  spores,  as  it  is 
apt  to  dislodge  them. 

The  period  of  germination  varies  in  different  species,  but 
three  to  six  weeks  may  be  considered  the  ordinary  limits.  While 
still  very  small,  the  plantlets  should  be  pricked  out,  and  for 
some  time  thereafter  they  should  be  subjected  to  the  same  con- 
ditions as  before.  Spores  -are  so  exceedingly  small  and  light 
that  the  greatest  care  must  be  exercised  in  growing  them.  In 
order  to  gather  them,  the  fronds  may  be  cut  as  soon  as  the  sori 
or  fruit-dots  turn  brown,  and  stored  in  close  boxes  or  paper  bags. 

NOTE. — For  tables  of  weights  and  longevities  of  seeds  and  quantities 
required  forgiven  areas, consult  Horticulturist's  Rule-Book. 


CHAPTER  II. 


SEPARATION. 

Separation. — The  act  or  process  of  multiplying  plants  by  means  of 
naturally  detached  asexual  organs,  or  the  state  or  condition  of  being  so 
multiplied. 

SEPARATION  is  effected  by  means  of  bulbs,  bulbels, 
bulb-scales,  bulblets,  corms,  tubers,  offsets,  crowns  and 
sometimes  by  buds. 

Bulbs  of  all  kinds  are  specialized  buds.  They  are  made  up 
of  a  short  and  rudimentary  axis  closely  encased  in  transformed 
and  thickened  leaves  or  bulb-scales.  These  thickened  parts  are 
stored  with  nutriment  which  is  used  during  subsequent  growth. 
Bulbs  occur  only  in  plants  which  are  accustomed  to  a  long 
period  of  inactivity.  Many  bulbous  plants  are  peculiar  to  dry 
and  arid  regions,  where  growth  is  im- 
possible during  long  periods.  A  bulb 
is,  therefore,  a  more  or  less  permanent 
and  compact  leaf -bud,  usually  occupy- 
ing the  base  of  the  stem  underground 
and  emitting  roots  from  its  lower  por- 
tion. Bulbs  are  conveniently  divided 
into  two  great  classes — the  scaly,  or 
those  composed  of  narrow  and  mostly 
loose  scales,  as  in  the  lily,  and  lami- 
nate or  tunicate,  or  those  composed  of 
more  or  less  continuous  and  close- 
fitting  layers  or  plates,  as  in  the  onion. 
Bulbs  often  break  up  or  divide 
themselves  into  two  or  more  nearly  equal  portions,  as  in  Lilium 
candidum,  shown  one-third  natural  size  in  Fig.  10.  The  parts 
N.  B.— 3  (25) 


Fig.  10.    Bulb  of  Lilium 
candidum. 


26  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

may  be  separated  and  treated  as  complete  bulbs  for  purposes  of 
propagation.  This  division  or  separation  of  bulbs  proceeds  in  a 
different  manner  in  nearly  every  species,  yet  it  is  so  obvious  that 
the  novice  need  not  be  perplexed  by  it.  Almost  any  breaking 
apart  of  these  loose  bulbs,  if  only  a  "heart"  or  central  axis 
remains  in  each  portion,  is  successful  for  purposes  of  slow  mul- 
tiplication ;  but  when  flowers  are  desired  it  is  usually  inad- 
visable. 

Bulbous  plants  multiply  most  easily  by  means  of  bulbels — 
often  also  called  bulbules  and  offsets — or  small  bulbs  which  are 
borne  about  a  large  or  mother  bulb.  In  some  lilies,  as  Lilium 
candidum,  the  bulbels  form  at  the  top  or  crown  of  the  mother 
bulb,  and  a  circle  of  roots  will  be  found  between  them  and  the 
bulb  ;  in  others,  as  L.  speciosum  and  L.  auratum,  they  form  on 
the  lower  part  of  the  flower  stalk.  In  some  species  the 
bulbels  are  few  and  very  large,  or  even  single,  and  they  bloom 
the  following  year.  In  such  cases  the  bulb  undergoes  a  pro- 
gressive movement  from  year  to  year  after  the  manner  of  root- 
stocks,  the  bulb  of  one  year  forming  a  'more  or  less  distinct 
one  above  and  beyond  it  which  continues  the  species,  while  the 
old  one  becomes  weak  or  dies.  This  method  of  bulb  formation 
is  seen  in  the  cut  of  Lilium  pardalinum,  Fig.  n.  In  the  hya- 
cinth the  bulbels  form  at  the  base  of  the  bulb. 

Bulbels  vary  greatly  in  size  and 
frequency  in  different  species.  Some- 
times they  are  no  larger  than  a  grain 
of  wheat,  and  in  other  plants  they 
are  as  large  as  hickory-nuts.  In  some 
species  they  are  borne  habitually  un- 
derneath the  scales  of  the  mother 
bulb.  These  bulbels  are  often  re- 
moved when  the  mother  bulbs  are 
taken  up,  and  they  are  usually  planted 
Fig.  ii.  Bulb  of  Lilium  parda-  in  essentially  the  same  manner  as  the 
linum.  bulbs  themselves,  although  it  is  de- 

sirable to  place  them,  at  least  for  the  first  year,  in  a  bed  or 
border  by  themselves.  Or  if  they  are  especially  small  and  deli- 


SEP  A  RA  TION. 


-7 


cate  they  may  be  planted  in  pots  or  flats  and  be  treated  about 
the  same  as  single  eye  cuttings.  In  some  lilies  the  bulbels  are 
allowed  to  remain  attached  and  the  whole 
mass  is  planted  in  the  fall  in  close  drills. 
Sometimes  the  larger  lily  bulbels  will 
produce  flowers  the  following  season,  but 
they  usually  require  the  whole  of  the 
season  in  which  to  complete  their  growth. 
The  second  fall  they  are  ready  to  be  per- 
manently planted.  Bulbels  o  f  some 
plants  require  a  longer  time  in  which 
to  mature  into  bulbs. 

Bulbels  are  often  produced  by  an  in-Fig.  I2.  Cut  Hyacinth  Bulb, 
jury  to  the  bulb.     Growth  of  stem  and 

leaves  is  prevented  or  checked  and  the  energy  is  directed  to 
the  formation  of  minute  buds,  or  bulbs,  in  the  same  manner 
as  adventitious  buds  form  upon  a  wounded  stem.  Advantage 
is  taken  of  this  fact  to  multiply  some  bulbous  plants,  and  in 
the  case  of  the  hyacinths,  at  least,  the  mutilation  of  bulbs  for 
this  purpose  is  practiced  to  a  commercial  extent.  Hyacinth 
bulbs  are  cut  in  two,  or  are  slashed  in  various  ways.  The  favor- 
ite method  is  to  make  two  or  three  deep  transverse  cuts  into  the 
base  of  the  bulb.  The  strongest  bulbs  should  be  chosen  and 
the  operation  is  performed  in  spring  or 
early  summer  when  the  bulb  is  taken 
up.  The  bulbs  are  sometimes  hal- 
lowed out  from  the  under  side  for 
half  or  more  of  their  length.  This 
operation  is  sometimes  performed 
later  in  the  season  than  the  other,  and 
precaution  should  be  exercised  that 
the  bulbs  do  not  become  too  moist,  else 

they  will  rot.    Hollowed  bulbs  should 
Fig.    13-     Hollowed   Hyacinth  be  well  dried  before  bejng   planted 

Both  methods  of  preparing  hyacinth 

bulbs  are  shown  in  Figs.   12  and  13.  which  are  adapted  from 
Gardeners'  Chronicle.     Fig.  14  shows  a  portion  of  the  base  of 


2 8  THE  NURSERY-BOOK- 

a  cross-cut  bulb,  with  the  adventitious  bulbels.     The  mutilated 

bulbs  are  stored  during  summer,  and  are 

planted  in  fall  or    spring.       The  wounded 

bulbs  produce  very  little  foliage,  but  at  the 

end  of  the  first  season  the  bulbels  will  have 

formed.     The  bulbels  are  then  separated  and 

planted   by   themselves   in   prepared   beds. 

Several  years  are  required  for  the  bulbels  to 

mature  into  flowering  bulbs.     Some  of  the 

strongest  ones  may  produce  flowering  bulbs 

in  three  years,  but  some  of  them,  especially 

those  obtained  from  the  hollowed  bulbs,  will 

_,,  .  ,      -,     Fig    14.    Cross-Cut 

not  mature  short  of  six  years.     This  method  Bulb 

of  propagating  hyacinths  is  confined  almost 
entirely  to  Holland. 

The  scales  of  bulbs  are  often  employed  to  multiply  scarce 
varieties.  From  ten  to  thirty  of  the  thicker  scales  may  be 
removed  from  the  outside  of  the  bulb  without  serious  injury  to 
it.  These  are  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  single  eye  cut- 
tings. They  are  usually  handled  in  flats  or  propagating- 
frames,  and  are  pressed  perpendicularly  into  a  light  and 
loose  soil — half  sharp  sand  and  half  leaf  mould — for  nearly 
or  quite  their  entire  length,  or  are  scattered  in  damp  moss. 
Keep  the  soil  simply  moist,  and  for  hardy  and  half-hardy 
species  keep  the  temperature  rather  low — from 
45°  to  60°  Slight  bottom  heat  may  some- 
times be  given  to  advantage.  In  from  three  to 
ten  weeks  a  little  bulbel,  or  sometimes  two  or 
more,  will  appear  at  the  base  of  the  scale,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  15. 

These  pots  or  flats  may  be  plunged  out-doors  dur- 
ing summer  if  the  planting  was  done  in  winter,  or 
Fig  i  '  '  Bulb-  the  scales  mav  be  potted  off  or  transferred  to  the 
Scale.          open  border  as  soon  as  rootlets  have  formed.     It  is 
the  common  practice  with  most  hardy  species  to 
allow  the  scales  to  remain  in  the  original  flats  during  summer  and 
to  cover  them  the  next  fall,  allowing  them  to  remain  out-doors 


SEPARA  TION. 


over  winter.  The  succeeding  spring  they  are  shifted  into  a  bed 
or  border,  and  by  the  next  fall — having  had  two  summers'  growth 
— most  species  will  be  ready  for  permanent  planting  in  the  flow- 
er border. 

A  bulblet  is  a  small  bulb  borne  entirely  above  ground,  usually 
in  the  axil  of  a  leaf  or  in  the  inflorescence.  Familiar  examples 
occur  in  the  tiger  lily  and  in  "top"  onions.  In  the  former  in- 
stance the  bulblets  are  direct  transformations  of  buds,  while 
in  the  onion  they  are  transformed  flowers.  It  is  impossible  to 
draw  any  line  of  separation  between  bulblets  and  buds.  In 
some  plants,  certain  buds  detach  themselves  and  fall  to  the 
ground  to  multiply  the  species.  Sometimes  these  buds  vegetate 
before  they  fall  from  the  plants,  as  in  the  case  of  various  ferns. 
For  purposes  of  propagation,  bulblets  are  treated  in  the  same 
way  as  bulbels,  and  like  them,  they  reproduce  the  variety  upon 

which  they  grow.  They 
will  develop  into  full 
grown  bulbs  in  from  one 
to  three  years,  according 
to  the  species. 

A  conn  is  a  bulb-like 
organ  which  is  solid 
throughout.  Familiar 
examples  occur  in  the 
gladiolus  and  crocus 
Cormous  plants  are  mul- 
tiplied in  essentially  the 
same  manner  as  bulbous 
Vk  species.  As  a  rule,  a  new 
»'  corm  is  produced  each 
year  above  the  old  one, 
and  this  commonly  bears 
flowers  the  following  sea- 
son. This  renewal  is 
well  shown  in  the  gladio- 
lus, Fig.  1 6.  The  illustration  shows  a  gladiolus  bottom,  half 
size,  when  taken  up  in  November.  At  the  base  are  seen  the 


Fig.  16.    Gladiolus  Corm. 


30  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

withered  remains  of  the  corm  which  was  planted  in  the  spring, 
and  above  it  the  new  corm  which  will  furnish  bloom  the  follow- 
ing season.  A  number  of  cormels  or  "spawn"  have  also  ap- 
peared. These  may  be  planted  out  in  a  border  or  bed  and  will 
produce  mature  bulbs  in  one  or  two  seasons.  The  larger  ones, 
under  good  treatment,  will  often  produce  bulbs  an  inch  in 
diameter  the  first  season.  Some  growers  keep  the  cormels  a 
year  and  a  half  before  planting  them  out,  as  they  are  thought  to 
vegetate  more  evenly  under  such  treatment ;  in  this  case  they 
should  be  placed  in  sand  to  prevent  too  great  drying  out. 

Adventitious  cormels  may  be  produced  by  various  methods  of 
wounding  the  mother  corm,  and  this  practice  of  exciting  them 
is  often  necessary,  as  some  varieties  do  not  produce  cormels 
freely.  Each  bud  on  the  top  or  side  of  the  corm  may  be  made 
to  produce  a  separate  corm  by  cutting  a  deep  ring  around  it,  so 
as  to  partly  divide  it.  Or  the  corm  may  be  directly  cut  into  as 
many  separate  pieces  as  there  are  buds  or  eyes,  after  the  man- 
ner of  cutting  potatoes,  but  these  pieces  are  usually  handled  in 
flats  where  temperature  and  moisture  can  be  controlled.  Almost 
any  injury  to  such  vigorous  corms  as  those  of  the  gladiolus  and 
crocus  will  result  in  the  production  of  cormels,  if  care  is  taken 
that  the  corms  do  not  become  so  cold  and  wet  that  they  will  rot. 

A  tuber  is  a  prominently  thickened  portion  of  a  root  or  stem, 
and  it  is  usually  subterranean.  The  potato,  sweet  potato  and 
dahlia  furnish  good  examples.  Tuberiferous  plants  are  multi- 
plied by  planting  these  tubers  whole,  or  the  tubers  may  be 
cut  into  small  portions  as  described  in  Chapter  IV,  in  the  descrip- 
tions of  cuttings.  In  hardy  species,  the  tubers  may  be  allowed 
to  remain  in  the  ground  during  winter,  but  they  are  generally 
dug  in  the  fall  and  stored  in  a  dry  and  cold  place,  but  where 
they  will  not  freeze. 

An  offset  is  a  crown  or  rosette  of  leaves,  usually  borne  next 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  which  detaches  itself  and  forms  an 
independent  plant.  The  best  examples  occur  in  the  house-leeks, 
plants  which  are  more  familiarly  known  as  "hen  and  chickens" 
and  "man  and  wife."  These  offsets  take  root  readily,  and  in 
propagating  there  is  no  other  care  necessary  than  to  remove 
and  plant  them. 


SEPARA  TION.  3! 

A  crown  is  a  detachable  portion  of  a  root-stock  bearing  roots 
and  a  prominent  bud.  Rhizomes  or  root-stocks  multiply  indi- 
viduals and  extend  the  distribution  of  the  species  by  means  of  a 
progressive  movement  of  the  crowns.  The  root-stock  grows 
during  summer,  and  at  the  end  of  the  season  each  branch 
develops  a  strong  terminal  bud  which  usually  produces  a  flower- 
ing stem  the  following  season.  The  root-stock  gradually  dies 
away  at  its  old  extremity,  and  in  a  few  years  a  single  individual 
gives  rise  to  a  considerable  patch.  This  is  well  shown  by  the 
common  May-apple  or  podophyllum. 

In  some  species  these  crowns  are  removed  in  the  autumn  and 
are  planted  and  handled  in  much  the  same  manner  as  bulbs. 
The  crown  or  pip  of  the  lily  of  the  valley,  shown  half  size  in 
Fig.  17,  is  obtained  in  this  manner 


Fig.  17.     Lily  of  the  Valley  Crown. 


CHAPTER    III. 


LAYERAGE. 

Layeragfe. — The  operation  or  practice  of  making  a  layer,  or  the  state 
or  condition  of  being  layered. 

Layer. — A  shoot  or  root,  attached  to  the  parent  plant,  partially  or 
wholly  covered  with  earth  with  the  intention  that  it  shall  take  root  and  then 
be  severed  from  the  parent. 

Stolon. — A  decumbent  shoot  which,  without  the  aid  of  man,  takes  root 
and  forms  an  independent  plant. 

nANY  plants  habitually  propagate  by  means  of  decum- 
bent shoots  and  runners.  These  shoots  become  more 
or  less  covered  with  earth  or  leaves,  and  roots  are  em- 
itted, usually  at  the  joints.  In  many  cases,  the  old  shoots  die  away 
and  an  entirely  independent  plant  arises  from  each  mass  of  roots. 
In  other  plants,  the  shoots  remain  attached  to  the  parent,  at  least 
for  a  number  of  years,  so  that  the  plant  comprises  a  colony  of 
essentially  distinct  individuals.  Great  numbers  of  plants  which 
do  not  propagate  naturally  by  means  of  layers  are  readily  in- 
creased by  this  means  under  the  direction  of  the  grower.  In 
most  cases  it  is  only  necessary  to  lay  .down  the  branches,  cover 
them  with  earth,  and  allow  them  to  remain  until  roots  are  well 
formed,  when  they  can  be  severed  from  the  parent.  Layering  is 
one  of  the  simplest  methods  of  propagation,  as  the  mother 
plants  nurse  the  layer  plants  until  they  can  sustain  themselves. 
It  is  a  ready  means  of  multiplying  hard-wooded  plants  which 
do  not  grow  well  from  cuttings. 

All  vines,  and  all  plants  which  have  runners  or  long  and  slen- 
der shoots  which  fall  to  the  ground,  may  be  multiplied  readily  by 
layerage.     Among  fruits,  the  black-cap  raspberry  is  a  familiar 
example.     The  canes  of    the  current   year  bend   over  late   in 
(32) 


LA  YERAGE. 


3.5 


summer  and  the  tips  strike  the  earth.     If  the  tip  is  secured  by 
a  slight  covering  of  earth,  or  if  it  finds  lodgment  in  a  mellow 

soil,  roots  are  emitted  and  in 
the  fall  a  strong  bud  or 
' '  crown  "or  "  eye ' '  is  formed 
for  next  year's  growth.  The 
parent  cane  is  severed  in  the 
fall  or  spring,  some  four  or 
six  inches  above  the  ground, 
and  an  independent  plant, 
known  as  a  "root-tip,"  as 
shown  in  Fig.  18,  is  obtained. 
In  this  instance,  as  in  most 
others,  i  t  is  immaterial  at 
what  point  the  parent  stem  is  severed,  except  that  a  short  por- 
tion of  it  serves  as  a  handle  in  carrying  the  plant,  and  also  marks 
the  position  of  the  plant  when  it  is  set.  The  black  raspberry 
propagates  itself  naturally  by  means  of  layers,  and  it  is  only 
necessary,  in  most  cases,  to  bring  the  soil  into  a  mellow  condi- 
tion when  the  tips  begin  to  touch  the  ground  in  order  that  they 
may  find  anchorage.  This  layering  by  inserting  the  growing 
point  has  the  advantage  of  producing  very  strong  "crowns"  or 
plants  in  autumn  from  shoots  or  canes  of  the  same  year,  and  it 
should  be  more  generally  practised.  Even  currants,  gooseber- 
ries, and  many  other  plants  can  be  handled  in  this  way. 


Fig.  18.    Raspberry  tip. 


Fig.  19.    Covered  Layer  of  Viburnum. 

In  most  cases  of  layerage  it  is  necessary  to  lay  down  the  branches 
and  to  cover  them.     The  covering  may  be  continuous,  as  in  Fig. 
N.  B. — 3 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


19,  or  it  may  be  applied  only  to  the  joints  or  restricted  portions  of 
the  shoot,  as  illustrated  in  Fig.  20.  In  either  case,  the  covering 
should  be  shallow,  not  exceeding  one  to  three  inches.  If  the 
shoot  is  stiff  a  stone  or  sod  may  be  placed  upon  it  to  hold  it 
down  ;  or  a  crotched  stick  may  be  thrust  down  over  it,  as  in  the 
"  PeggmH  down  "  of  propagators. 

The  strongest  plants  are  usually  obtained  by  securing  only  one 
plant  from  a  shoot,  and  for  this  purpose  the  earth  should  be 
applied  only  at  one  point,  preferably  over  a  bud  somewhere 


""Wfr"    'V 

Fig.  20.     Layered  Shoots. 

near  the  middle  of  the  shoot.  If  the  buds  are  close  together,  all 
but  the  strongest  one  may  be  cut  out.  If  more  plants  are 
desired,  however,  serpentine  layering  may  be  practiced,  as  shown 
at  A  in  Fig.  20.  The  shoot  is  bent  in  an  undulating  fashion, 
and  from  every  covered  portion  roots  will  form  and  a  plant  may 
be  obtained.  The  covered  layer  also  possesses  the  advantage  of 
giving  more  than  one  plant,  but  the  roots  are  apt  to  form  so  con- 
tinuously that  definite  and  strong  plants  are  rarely  obtained  ; 
these  rooted  portions  may  be  treated  as  cuttings,  however,  with 
good  results.  The  grape  is  sometimes  propagated  by  serpentine 
layering. 


LA  YE  RAGE. 


Stiff  and  hard-wooded  plants  do  not  often  "strike"  or  root 
readily,  and  in  order  to  facilitate  rooting  the  branch  is  wounded 
at  the  point  where  a  new  plant  is  desired.  This  wounding 
serves  to  induce  formation  of  adventitious  buds  at  that  point, 
and  to  check  the  growth  of  the  branch  at  the  tip.  It  is  a  com- 
mon practice  to  cut  the  branch  about  half  in  two  obliquely,  on 
the  lower  side.  This  operation  is  known  as  "  tongueing. " 
"Ringing"  or  girdling,  twisting,  notching,  and  various  other 
methods  are  employed,  none  of  which,  perhaps,  possess  any 
peculiar  advantages  in  general  practice.  Some  propagators  cut 
all  the  buds  from  the  covered  portion.  In  this  case  the  free  and 
protruding  end  of  the  layer  is  expected  to  form  the  top  of  the 
new  plant.  ' '  Arching, "  or  very  abrupt  bending,  as  in  serpentine 
layering,  serves  the  same  purpose  and  is  the  only  attention 
necessary  in  most  vines. 

When  large  numbers  of  plants  are  desired,  as  in  commercial 
nurseries,  it  is  often  necessary  to  cut  back  the  parent  plant  to 
the  ground,  or  very  nearly  so,  for  the  purpose  of  securing  many 
shoots  fit  for  layering.  A  plant  which  is  cut  back  in  the  spring 
will  produce  shoots  fit  for  layering  the  following  spring  ;  or 
some  species  will  produce  them  in  abundance  the  same  year  if 
layers  of  green  or  immature  wood  are  desired.  These  parent  or 
stock  plants  are  called  "stools"  by  nurserymen. 

In  many  species  layerage  is  performed  to  best  advantage  by 

heaping  earth  over  the  stool 
and  around  the  shoots.  This 
is  known  as  mound  or  stool 
layering.  The  shoots  send 
out  roots  near  the  base  and 
straight,  stocky  plants  are 
obtained.  The  English 
gooseberries  are  almost  ex- 
clusively propagated  in  this 
Fig.  21.  Mound  Layering  of  Goose-  manner  in  this  country.  Fig. 

21  shows  a  row  of  mound- 
layered  gooseberries.  The  shoots  are  allowed  to  remain  in  lay- 
erage two  years,  in  the  case  of  English  gooseberries,  if  the 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


plants  are  wanted,  but  in  many  species  the  operation  is  com- 
pleted in  a  single  season.  Quinces  and  Paradise  apple  stocks 
are  extensively  mound-layered.  The  practice  is  most  useful  in 
those  low  plants  which  produce  short  and  rather  stiff  shoots. 

As  a  rule,  the  best  season  for  making  layers  is  in  spring  when 
the  leaves  are  forming.  Rooting  progresses  rapidly  at  that 
season.  Many  plants  "bleed"  if  layered  earlier  in  the  season. 
Hardy  shrubs  may  be  layered  in  the  fall,  either  early  or  late,  and 
if  an  incision  is  made,  a  callus  will  have  formed  by  spring.  If 
rapid  multiplication  is  desired,  the  soft  and  growing  shoots  may 
be  layered  during  the  summer.  This  operation  is  variously 
known  as  "summer,"  "herbaceous,"  "green"  and  "soft"  lay- 
ering. Comparatively  feeble  plants  usually  result  from  this 
practice,  and  it  is  not  in  common  favor. 

Pot  layering,  circumposition,  air  layering  and  Chinese  layering 
are  terms  applied  to  the  rooting  of  rigid  stems  by  means  of  sur- 
rounding them,  while  in  their  natural  position,  by  earth  or 

moss,  or  similar  mate- 
rial. The  stem  is 
wounded — common  1  y 
girdled — and  a  divided 
pot  or  box  is  placed 
about  it  and  filled  with 
earth  (Fig.  22).  The 
roots  start  from  above 
the  girdle,  and  when 
they  have  filled  the 
pot  the  stem  is  severed, 
headed  back,  and 
planted.  Pot  layering 
is  practiced  almost  ex- 
clusively in  green- 
houses,  where  it  is 
possible  t  o  keep  the 
earth  uniformly  moist. 
But  even  there  it  is  advisable  to  wrap  the  pot  in  moss  to  check 
evaporation  from  ..he  soil.  Some  plants  can  be  readily  rooted  by 


Fig.  22.    Potlayerage. 


LA  YERA  GE. 


Fig.  24.     Layering  cone. 


wrapping  them  with  moss  alone.     Pot  layering  is  employed  not 
only  for  the  purpose  of  multiplying  plants,  but  in  order  to  lower 

the  heads  of  ' '  leggy  "  or 

scraggly    specimens. 

The  pot   is  inserted  at 

the  required  point  upon 

the  main  stem,  and  after 

roots  have  formed  abun- 
dantly the  top  may  be 

Fig.  23.    Layering  cut  off  and  Potted  inde- 
pot.  pendently,    the    old 

stump  being  discarded. 

The  French  have  various  handy  devices  for  facilitating  pot 
layering.      Fig.  23  shows  a  layering  pot,  provided  with  a  niche 

in  the  side  to  receive  

the  stem,  and  a 
flange  behind  for 
securing  if  to  a  sup- 
port. Fig.  24  repre- 
sents a  layering 
cone.  It  is  made  of 
Fig.  25  Layering  cup.  zinc  or  other  metal,  Fig.  26.  Layering  cup. 

usually  four  or  five 

inches  high,  and  is  composed  of  two  semi-circular  wings  which 
are  hinged  on  the  back  and  are  secured  in  front,  when  the 
instrument  is  closed,  by  means  of  a 
hinge-pin.  A  cord  is  inserted  in  one 
side  with  which  to  hang  it  on  a  sup- 
port. A  cup  or  pot  with  a  remova- 
ble side  is  also  used.  This  is  shown 
open  in  Fig.  25  and  closed  in  Fig. 
26.  An  ingenious  compound  layer- 
ing pot  is  shown  in  Fig.  27.  The 
main  stem  or  trunk  of  the  plant  is 


Fig.   27. 


Compound 
pot. 


layering 


carried  through  the  large  opening, 
and  the  branches  are  taken  through 
the  smaller  pots  at  the  side.     Kier's  layering  boxes  or  racks  are 


38  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

shown  in  Figs,  28  and  29.  The  trays  are  filled  with  earth  and 
the  branches  are  laid  in  through  the 
chinks  in  the  border  and  are  treated  in 
the  same  manner  as  ordinary  out-door 
layers.  These  racks  supply  a  neat  and 
convenient  means  of  increasing  green- 
house plants  which  do  not  readily  strike 
from  cuttings. 

It  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  that  when 
layers  do  not  give  strong  plants,  they  can 
be  divided  into  portions  and  treated  as 
ordinary  cuttings.  This  is  an  important 
operation  in  the  case  of  rare  varieties 
which  are  multiplied  by  means  of  soft  or 
green  layers,  as  some  of  the  large-flow- 
ered clematises  and  grapes.  The  weak  small  plants  are  handled 
in  a  cool  greenhouse  or  under  frames,  usually  in  pots,  and  they 
soon  make  strong  individual? 


Fig. 


Kier's  layering 
rack. 


Fig.  29- 


Kier's  circular  layering 
rack. 


CHAPTER    IV. 


CUTTAGE. 

Cuttage.— The  practice  or  process  of  multiplying  plants  by  means  of 
cuttings,  or  the  state  or  condition  of  being  thus  propagated. 

Cutting. — A  severed  portion  of  a  plant,  inserted  in  soil  or  water  with 
the  intention  that  it  shall  grow  ;  a  slip. 

GUTTINGS,  particularly  of  growing  parts,  demand  a  moist 
and  uniform  atmosphere,  a  porous  soil  and  sometimes 
bottom  heat. 

Devices  for  Regulating  Moisture  and  Heat. — In  order  to 
secure  a  uniform  and  moist  atmosphere,  various  propagating- 
frames  are  devised.  Whatever  its  construction,  the  frame  should 
be  sufficiently  tight  to  confine  the  air  closely,  it  should  admit 
light,  and  allow  of  ventilation.  The  simplest  form  of  propa- 
gating-frame  is  a  pot  or  box  covered  with  a  pane  of  glass.  To 
admit  of  ventilation  the  glass  is  tilted  at  intervals,  or  two  panes 
may  be  used  and  a  space  be  allowed  to  remain  between  them. 

A  common  bell-glass 
or  bell-jar  (cloche  of 
the  French)  makes  one 
of  the  best  and  handi- 
est propagating-frames 
because  it  admits  light 
upon  all  sides  and  is 
convenient  to  handle. 
These  are  in  universal 

Fig.  30.     Hand-glass,  USe  f°r  a11  difficult  and 

rare    subjects  which 

are  not  propagated  in  large  numbers.     A  hand-glass  or  hand- 
light  (Fig.  30)  answers  the  same  purpose  and  accommodates  a 

39 


4o 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


larger  number  of  plants.  A  useful  propagating-box  for  the 
window  garden  or  amateur  conservatory  is  shown  in  Fig.  31. 
A  box  two  or  three  inches  high  is 
secured,  and  inside  this  a  zinc  or 
galvanized  iron  tray,  a,  is  set,  leav- 
ing sufficient  space  between  it  and 
the  box  to  admit  a  pane  of  glass 
upon  every  side.  These  panes  form 
the  four  sides  of  the  box,  and  one  or 
two  panes  are  laid  across  the  top. 
The  metal  tray  holds  the  soil  and 
allows  no  water  to  drip  upon  the 
floor.  One  of  the  best  boxes  for 
general  purposes  is  made  in  the  form 
of  a  simple  board  box  without  top  or 

bottom,  and  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  high,  the  top  being  cov- 
ered with  two  sashes,  one  of  which  raises  upon  a  hinge  (Fig.  32) , 
^ourby  three  feet  is  a  convenient  size.    An  ordinary  light  hot-bed 


Fig.  31.    Small  Propagating- 
box. 


Fig.  32.     Propagating-box. 

frame  is  sometimes  constructed  upon  the  bench  of  a  greenhouse 
and  covered  with  common  hot-bed  sash.     Propagating  houses 


CUTTA  GE. 


Fig.  33.    Simple  Propagating-oven. 


are  sometimes  built  with  permanent  propagating  frames  of  this 
character  throughout  their  length. 

In  all  the 
above  a  p  p  1  i  - 
ances  heat  i  s 
obtained  from 
the  sun  or  from 
the  bench-pipes 
or  flues  of  a 
greenhouse . 
There  are  vari- 
ous c  o  n  t  r  i  - 
vances  in  which 
the  heat  is  ap- 
plied  locally, 
for  the  purpose 
of  securing 

greater  or  more  uniform  heat  One  of  the  simplest  and  best 
of  these  is  the  propagating-oven  shown  in  Fig.  33.  It  is  a  glass 
covered  box  about  two  feet  deep,  with  a  tray  of  water  beneath 
the  soil,  and  which  is  heated  by  a  lamp.  A  similar  but  some- 
what complicated  apparatus  is  illustrated  in  Figs.  34,  35,  36 
This  is  an  old  form  of  oven,  which  has  been  variously  modified 

by  different  operators.  Fig. 
34  shows  a  sectional  view 
of  the  complete  apparatus. 
The  box,  A  A,  is  made  of 
wood  and  is  usually  about 
three  feet  square.  L  is  a 
removable  glass  top.  B 
represents  a  zinc  or  gal- 
vanized iron  tray  which  is 
filled  with  earth  in  which 
seeds  are  sown  or  pots  are 
Fig.  34-  Propagating-oven.  plunged.  C  is  a  water  tray 

to  which  the  water  is  ap- 
plied by  means  of  a  funnel  extending  through  the  box.    A  lamp,  D, 
N.  B  — 4 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


supplies  the  heat.  A  funel  of  tin,  e  e,  distributes  the  heat  evenly- 
Holes  should  be  provided  about  the  bottom  of  the  box  to  admit 
j^v  air  to  the  flame.  A  modi- 

Nv  fied  form  of  this  device  is 
shown  in  Figs.  35  and  36. 
The  water  tray,  G,  slides  in 
upon  ledges  so  that  it  can 
be  removed,  and  the  heat 
funnel,  L  D  L,  slides  in 
similarly  and  is  made  to 
surround  the  flame  like  a 
chimney.  The  front  side 


35-     Modified  form  of  Fig.  34. 


of  the  apparatus  is  removable,  and  the  top  of  the  frame,  K,  is 
made  of  metal.  The  cover  for  this  apparatus  is  figured  in 
Fig.  36.  The  ends,  a  a,  are  made  of  wood,  with  openings,  indi- 
cated by  the  arrows,  to  allow  of  ventilation.  The  front  and 
top,  g g,  are  made  of  glass.  The  frame  work,  c  c  c,  is  made  of 
metal.  The  cover  is  hinged  on,  or  held  with  pegs,  1 1,  Fig. -35. 
Chauviere's  propagating-frame,  an  apparatus  used  by  the 
French,  is  shown  in  Fig.  37.  It  is  essentially  a  miniature  green- 
house. The  sashes  are  seen  at  c  c,  and  above  them  is  a  cloth  or 
matting  screen.  The  sides  below  the  sashes  are  enclosed,  pre- 
ferably with  glass.  The  bottom  or  floor  is  moveable,  and  it  is 
sometimes  divided  into  two  or  three  sections  to  allow  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  plants  of  different  sizes  and  requirements.. 
These  sections  are  raised  or  lowered  and  are  held  by  pegs.  At  a 
is  shown  a  section  of  floor  elevated,  and  at  the  left  another  sec- 
tion occupy- 
i  n  g  a  lower 
p  o  s  i  t  i  o  n  . 
Heat  is  sup- 
plied usually 
by  hot  water 
in  the  tubes, 
d  d.  A  very 


Fig.  36.    Cover  for  Fig.  35. 


elaborate  circular  French  device,  known  as  Lecoq's  propagating- 
oven,  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  38.     It  is  an  interesting  apparatus, 


CUTTAGE. 


43 


and  is  worth  attention  as  showing  the  care  which  has  been  taken 
to  control  the  conditions  of  vegetation  and  germination.     It  is 


Fig.  37.     Chauvi&re's  Propagating-oven. 

too  elaborate  for  common  purposes,  and  yet  for  the  growing  of 
certain  rare  or  difficult  subjects  it  might  find  favor  among  those 
who  like  to  experiment ;  and  it  affords  an  accurate  means  of 
studying  plant  growth  under  control.  The  apparatus  is  sold  in 
France  for  about  $6.  All  the  portion  below  the  glass  top,  Pp, 
is  made  of  earthenware.  The  base,  a  a,  holds  a  lamp,  d\  e  is  a 


FIG.  38.    Lecoq's  Propagating-oven. 


water  reservoir   to   which  water  is  supplied  by  means  of   the 
funnel,  j.     A  vase  or  rim,  b  l>,  rests  upon  the  base,  and  upon  it  a 


44 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


plate  or  disc,  c  c,  is  fitted.  Above  this  is  a  glass  top,  Pp.  Air  is 
admitted  to  the  apparatus  at  i,  PC  K,  and  between  the  vase  and 
plate,  as  at  c  on  the  right.  The  plate  contains  two  circular 
grooves,  g  g  and  //•  h.  In  these  grooves  the  soil  is  placed  or  pots 
plunged.  The  heat  circulates  in  the  valleys  m  and  n  n  n  n,  and 
supplies  a  uniform  temperature  to  both  sides  of  the  plants. 

Barnard's  propagating-tank,  Fig.  39,  is  a  practicable  device  for 
attachment  to  a  common  stove.  A  similar  apparatus  may  be 
attached  to  the  pipes  of  a  greenhouse.  The  tank  consists  of  a 


Fig.  39.  Barnard's  Propagating-tank. 


long  wooden  box  made  of 
matched  boards,  and  put  to- 
gether with  paint  between  the 
joints  to  make  the  box  water- 
tight. The  box  should  be  about 
three  feet  wide  and  ten  inches 
deep,  and  may  be  from  ten  to 
thirty  feet  long,  according  to 
the  space  required.  In  the 
middle  of  the  box  is  a  parti- 
tion, extending  nearly  the 

whole  length  of  the  box,  and  on  the  inside,  on  each  side,  is  a 
ledge  or  piece  of  moulding  to  support  slates  to  be  laid  over  the 
entire  surface  of  the  box.  The  slates  are  supported  by  the 
ledges  and  by  the  central  partition,  and  should  be  fastened  down 
with  cement  to  prevent  the  propagating  sand  from  falling  into 
the  tank.  One  slate  is  left  out  near  the  end,  next  the  fire,  to 
enable  the  operator  to  see  the  water  and  to  keep  it  at  the  right 
lev^l.  On  the  slates  sand  is  spread,  in  which  the  cuttings  may 
be  struck,  the  sand  nearly  filling  the  box.  At  one  end  of  the 
box  is  placed  a  common  cylinder  stove,  with  pipe  to  the  chim- 
ney. Inside  the  stove  is  a  lead  or  iron  pipe  (iron  is  the  best) 
bent  in  a  spiral.  This  coil,  which  is  directly  in  the  fire,  is  con- 


CUTTA  G  E. 


45 


Zinc  Propagating-tarik. 


nected  by  iron  pipes  with  the  tank,  one  pipe  leading  to  one  side 
of  the  partition  and  the  other  to  the  opposite  side,  as  shown  in 

the  drawing. 
If  water  is 
placed  in  the 
tank  it  will  fill 
the  pipes  and 
form  a  contin- 
uous c  i  r  c  u  - 
lating  system 
through  t  h e 
pipes  and  up 
one  side  of  the 
box  past  the 
end  of  the 
partition,  and 
down  the 

other  side.     A  fire  in  the  stove  causes  the  water  to  circulate 
through  the  tank  and  impart  to  the  bed  a  genial  warmth. 

There  are  various  tanks  designed  to  rest  upon  the  pipes  in  a 
greenhouse.  The  principle  of  their  construction  is  essentially 
the  same  as  of  those  described  in  previous  pages — bottom  heat, 
a  tray  of  water,  and  a  bed  of  soil.  Earthenware  tanks  are 
commonly  employed,  but  a  recent  English  device,  Fig.  40,  is 
made  of  zinc.  It  is  about  seven  inches  deep,  and  holds  an  inch 
or  two  of  water  in  the  bottom.  A  tray  five  inches  deep  sets  into 
the  tank.  The  water  is  supplied  through  a  funnel  at  the  base. 
Cuttings  usually  "strike"  better  when  they  touch  the  side  of 
the  pot  than  when  they  are  wholly  surrounded  by  soil.  This  is 
because  the  earthenware  allows  greater  uniformity  in  moisture 
than  the  earth,  and  supplies  air  and  a  mild  bottom  heat.  Vari- 
ous devices  are  employed  for  the  purpose  of  securing  these 
advantages  to  the  best  effect.  These  are  usually  double  pots,  in 
one  of  which  water  is  placed.  A  good  method  is  that  repre- 
sented in  Fig.  41,  which  shows  a  pot,  b,  plugged  with  plaster  of 
Paris  at  the  bottom,  placed  inside  a  larger  one.  The  earth  is 
placed  between  the  two,  drainage  material  occupying  the  bot- 


46 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Fig.  41.    Forsyth's  Cut- 
ting-pot. 


torn,  a,  and  fine  soil  the  top,  c.  Water  stands  in  the  inner  pot 
as  high  as  the  dotted  line  and  feeds  uniformly  into  the  surround- 
ing soil.  The  positions  of  the  water  and 
soil  are  frequently  reversed,  but  in  that 
case  there  is  less  space  available  for  cut- 
tings. Neumann's  cutting-pot  is  shown  in 
Fig.  42.  This  contains  an  inverted  pot  in 
the  center,  a,  designed  to  supply  drainage 
and  to  admit  heat  into  the  center  of  the 
mass  of  soil. 

Some  kind  of  protection,  commonly 
combined  with  bottom  heat,  is  always  given 
cuttings  made  from  the  soft  and  growing 
parts.  In  in-door  work,  any  of  the  devices  named  above  may 
be  employed,  but  a  box  like  that  shown  in  Fig.  32  is  one  of 
the  most  useful  for  common  operations.  Or  the  greenhouse 
itself  may  afford  sufficient  protection,  especially  if  the  cuttings 
are  shaded  when  first  set  to  check  evaporation  from  the  plant 
and  soil,  and  to  prevent  too  great  heat.  This  shading  is  usually 
supplied  by  whitewashing  the  glass,  or  a  newspaper  may  be  laid 
over  the  cutting  bed  for  a  few  days.  A  greenhouse  table  or 
bench  prepared  for  the  growing  of  cuttings  is  known  as  a  "  cut- 
ting bench."  If  the  cuttings  become  too  dry  or  too  hot,  they 
will  wilt  or  "flag."  In  out-door  work  soft  cuttings  are  usually 
placed  in  an  ordinary  cold  frame,  and  these  frames  must  be 
shaded.  They  may  be  placed  under  trees  or  on  the  shady  side 
of  a  building,  or  if  they  are  numerous, 
as  in  commercial  establishments,  a  cloth 
screen  ^should  be  provided  as  shown  in 
Fig.  5,  page  13. 

Soils  and  General  Methods. — Soil  for 
all  cuttings  should  be  well  drained.      It 

Fig.  42.    Neumann's  Cut.  should  not  be  so  compact  as  to  hold  a 

ting-pot.  great  quantity  of  water,  nor  should  it  be 

so  loose  as  to  dry  out  very  quickly.     It 

should  not  "bake"  or  form  a  crust  on  its  surface.     As  a  rule, 
especially  for  cuttings  made  of  growing  parts,  the  soil  should 


CUTTA  G  E. 


47 


not  contain  vegetable  matter,  as  such  materials  holds  too  much 
water  and  it  is  often  directly  injurious  to  the  cutting.  A  coarse 
sharp,  clean  sand  is  the  best  material  for  use  in-doors.  Very 
fine  sand  packs  too  hard,  and  should"  nbt'be  used.  Some  propa- 
gators prefer  to  use  fine  gravel,  composed  of  particles  from  an 
eighth  to  a  fourth  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  from  which  all 
fine  material  has  been  washed.  This  answers  well  for  green 
cuttings  if  a  propagating-frame  is  used  to  check  evaporation  and 
attention  is  given  to  watering,  because  drainage  is  so  perfect  and 
the  material  so  quickly  permeable  that  uniformity  of  treatment 
is  secured.  Damping-off  is  less  liable  to  occur  in  such  material 
than  in  denser  soils.  The  same  advantages  are  to  some  extent 
present  in  sphagnum  moss  and  cocoanut  fibre,  both  of  which 
are  sometimes  used  in  place  of  earth.  The  "silver  sand"  used 
by  florists  is  a  very  clean  and  white  sand  which  derives  its  par- 
ticular advantages  from  the  almost  entire  absence  of  any  vege- 
table matter.  But  it  is  not  now  considered  so  essential  to  suc- 
cessful propagation  as  it  was  formerly,  and  fully  as  good 
material  may  often  be  found  in  a  common  sand-bank.  Cut- 
tings which  strike  strongly  and  vigorously  may  be  placed  in  a 
soil  made  of  light  garden  loam  with  twice  its  bulk  of  sand  added 
to  it.  All  soils  used  for  in-door  cuttage  should  be  sifted  or 
screened  before  using  to  bring  them  to  a  uniform  texture. 

Hard-wood  cuttings  are  commonly  planted  out-doors  in  mel- 
low and  light  loam,  well  trenched.  Only  fine  and  well-rotted 
manure  should  be  applied  to  the  cutting  bed,  and  it  should  be 
well  mixed  with  the  soil.  In  most  cases,  a  well-drained  soil 
gives  best  results,  but  some  cuttings  root  and  grow  well  in  wet 
soils  or  even  in  standing  water,  as  poplars,  willows,  some  of  the 
dogwoods,  plane-tree  and  others. 

Bottom  heat  is  always  essential  to  the  best  success  wilh  cut- 
tings. In  out-door  work  this  is  supplied  by  the  natural  heat  of 
the  soil  in  spring  and  summer,  and  it  is  often  intensified  by 
burying  hard-wooded  cuttings  bottom  end  up  for  a  time  before 
planting  them.  This  operation  of  inverting  cuttings  is  often 
practiced  with  grapes,  particularly  with  the  Delaware  and 
others  which  root  with  some  difficulty.  The  cuttings  are  tied  in 


48  THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 

bundles  and  are  buried  in  a  sandy  place,  with  the  tops  down, 
the  butts  being  covered  two  or  three  inches  with  sand.  They 
may  be  put  in  this  position  in  the  fall  and  allowed  to  remain 
until  the  ground  begins  to  freeze  hard,  or  they  may  be  buried 
in  spring  and  allowed  to  remain  until  May  or  June  and  then  be 
regularly  planted.  In  out-door  cuttage,  the  cuttings  which  are 
of  medium  length,  from  six  to  eight  inches,  derive 
more  bottom  heat  than  the  very  long  ones,  such  as 
were  formerly  used  for  the  propagation  of  the  grape. 
In  in-door  work  bottom  heat  is  obtained  artificially. 
Cutting  benches  should  have  abundant  piping  beneath, 
and  in  the  case  of  many  tropical  and  sub-tropical 
species  the  bottom  heat  may  be  intensified  by  enclos- 
ing the  benches  below  so  that  no  heat  can  escape  into 
the  house.  Doors  can  be  placed  in  the  partition  along- 
side the  walk  to  serve  as  ventilators  if  the  heat  should 
become  too  intense.  In  all  cuttings,  bottom  or  root 
growth  should  precede  top  growth,  and  this  is  aided  by 
bottom  heat. 

As  a  rule,  roots  arise  most  readily  from  a  joint, 
and  it  is  therefore  a  common  practice  to  cut  off  the 
base  of  the  cutting  just  below  a  bud,  as  shown  in  the 
grape   cutting,    Fig.   43.      Sometimes   the   cutting   is 
severed   at    its   point   of    attachment    to    the    parent 
branch,  and  a  small  portion,  or  "heel, "of  that  branch 
is  allowed  to  remain  on  the  cutting.     This  heel  may 
be  nothing  more  than  the  curved  and  hardened  base 
of   the  cutting  at  its  point  of   attachment,  as  in  the 
cornus  cutting,  Fig.  44.     Sometimes  an  entire  section 
of  the  parent  branch  is  removed  with  the  cutting,  as  in 
the  "mallet"  cuttings  of  grapes,  Fig.  45.     Of  course, 
comparatively  few  heel  or  mallet  cuttings  can  be  made 
Fig.  43     from  a  plant,  as  only  one  cutting  is  obtained  from  a 
Grape  cut-  Dranch(    and   it    is   advisable,    therefore,    to    "cut   to 
buds"  rather  than  "cut  to  heels  ;"  yet  there  are  many 
plants  which  demand  a  heel,  if  satisfactory  results  are  to  be 
obtained.     The  requirements  of   the  different   species   in  this 


CUTTA  GE. 


49 


direction  ean  be  learned  only  by  experience,  but  it  may  be  said 
that  in  general  the  hardest  or  closest  wooded  plants  require  a 

heel  or  a  joint  at  the  base. 
Willows,  currants,  bass- 
woods,  and  others  with 
like  soft  wood,  emit  roots 
readily  between  the  buds, 
yet  even  in  these  cases  pro- 
pagators quite  usually  c  u  t 
to  buds. 

Wounds  upon  plants  be- 
gin to  heal  by  the  forma- 
tion of  loose  cellular  mat- 
ter which  gives  rise  to  a 
mass  of  tissue  known  as  a 
callus.  This  tissue  eventu- 
ally covers  the  entire 
wound,  if  complete  healing 
results.  As  a  rule,  the  first 
apparent  change  in  a  cut- 
ting is  the  formation  of  a 
callus  upon  the  lower  end, 
and  it  is  commonly  sup- 
posed that  this  process 
must  be  well  progressed 
before  roots  can  form. 
But  roots  do  not  necessarily 
arise  from  the  callus,  and 
in  many  plants  they  appear 
to  bear  no  relation  to  it 
in  position.  In  willows, 
for  instance,  roots  arise 
from  the  bark  quite  irregu- 
larly and  at  some  distance 
from  the  callus.  Yet,  as  a  matter  of  practice,  best  results  are 
obtained  from  callused  cuttings,  particularly  if  the  cuttings  are 
made  from  mature  wood,  but  this  is  probably  due  quite  as  much 


Fig.  44.    Heel  cutting  of  CornuS 


5° 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


to  the  fact  that  considerable  time  is  required  for  the  formation  of 
the  adventitious  buds  which  give  rise  to  the  roots  as  from  any  con- 
nection between  the  callusing  and  rooting  pro- 
cesses themselves.  Hard-wood  cuttings  give  bet- 
ter results  when  kept  dormant  for  some  time  after 
they  are  cut.  They  are  usually  made  in  the  fall, 
and  stored  during  the  winter  in  sand,  sawdust  or 
moss  in  a  cool  cellar,  or  buried  in  a  sandy  and  well- 
drained  place.  This,  at  least,  is  the  practice  with 
hard-wood  cuttings  of  deciduous  plants.  Hard- 
wood evergreen  cuttings,  when  taken  in  the  fall, 
are  usually  set  at  once,  as  their  foliage  will  not  al- 
low them  to  be  buried  with  safety  ;  but  in  this 
case,  the  cuttings  are  kept  "quiet  "  or  dormant  for 
a  time,,  to  allow  callusing  to  progress.  If  cuttings 
are  buried  so  deep  that  they  cannot  sprout,  callus- 
ing may  be  hastened  by  placing  them  in  a  mild 
temperature.  Single-eye  grape  cuttings  are  some- 
times packed  between  layers  of  sand  in  a  barrel 
and  the  barrel  is  set  under  a  forcing-house  bench 
where  the  temperature  is  about  50°.  Eight  or  ten 
inches  of  sand  is  usually  placed  over  the  top 
layer.  In  this  manner,  cuttings  which  have  been 
obtained  in  winter  or  spring  can  be  callused  before 
planting  time. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  the  lower  end  of  the 
cutting,  as  it  stood  upon  the  parent  plant,  pro- 
duces roots  and  the  upper  end  produces  leaves  and 
shoots,  even  if  the  cutting  is  inverted.  And  if  the 
cutting  is  divided  into  several  parts,  each  part  will 
still  exhibit  this  same  differentiation  of  function.  This  is  true 
even  of  root  cuttings,  and  of  other  cuttings  which  possess  no 
buds.  The  reasons  for  this  localization  of  function  are  not  yet 
clearly  understood,  although  the  phenomenon..has  lately  been 
the  subject  of  study.  Upon  this  fact  depends  the  hastening  of 
the  rooting  process  in  inverted  cuttings  by  the  direct  applica- 
tion of  heat  to  the  bottoms,  and  it  likewise  indicates  that  care 


Fig.  45.    Mal- 
let cutting  of 
grape. 


I 


CUTTAGE.  5I 

must  be  taken  to  plant  cuttings  in  approximately  their  natural 
direction  if  straight  and  handsome  plants  are  desired. 

The  particular  method  of  making  the  cutting  and  the  treat- 
ment to  which  it  should  be  subjected,  must  be  determined  for 
each  species  of  genus.  Some  plants,  as  many  maples,  can  be 
propagated  from  wood  two  or  three  years  old,  but  in  most  cases 
the  wood  of  the  previous  or  present  season's  growth  is  required. 
Nearly  all  soft  and  loose  wooded  plants  grow  readily  from  hard- 
wood cuttings,  while  those  with  dense  wood  are  often  multiplied 
more  easily  from  soft  or  growing  wood.  Some  plants,  as  oaks  and 
hickories,  are  propagated  from  cuttings  of  any  description  only 
with  great  difficulty.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  all  plants  can 
be  multiplied  by  cuttings  if  properly  treated.  It  often  happens 
that  one  or  two  species  of  a  closely  defined  genus  will  propagate 
readily  from  cuttings  while  the  other  species  will  not,  so  that  the 
propagator  comes  to  learn  by  experience  that  different  treatment 
is  profitable  for  very  closely  related  plants.  For  instance, 
most  of  the  viburnums  are  propagated  from  layers  in  commer- 
cial establishments,  but  V.  plicatum  is  grown  extensively  from 
cuttings. 

Particular  Methods — Kinds  of  Cuttings. — Cuttings  are  made 
from  all  parts  of  the  plant  In  its  lowest  terms,  cuttage  is  a 
division  of  the  plant  itself  into  two  or  more  nearly  equal  parts, 
as  in  the  division  of  crowns  of  rhubarb,  dicentra,  and  most 
other  plants  which  tend  to  form  broad  masses  or  stools.  This 
species  of  cuttage  is  at  times  indistinguishable  from  separation, 
as  in  the  dividing  of  lily  bulbs  (page  25),  and  at  other  times  it  is 
essentially  the  same  as  layerage,  as  in  the  dividing  of  stools 
which  have  arisen  from  suckers  or  layers.  This  breaking  or 
cutting  up  of  the  plants  into  two  or  more  large  parts  which  are 
already  rooted  is  technically  known  as  division.  It  is  only 
necessary,  in  dividing  plants,  to  see  that  one  or  more  buds  or 
shoots  remain  upon  the  portions,  and  these  portions  are  then 
treated  in  the  same  manner  as  independent  mature  plants  ;  or 
sometimes,  when  the  divisions  are  small  and  weak,  they  may  be 
handled  for  a  time  in  a  frame  or  forcing-house  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  ordinary  cuttings. 


52  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Cuttings  proper  may  be  divided  into  four  general  classes  :  i,  of 
tubers ;  2,  of  roots  and  root-stocks ;  3,  of  stems  ;  4,  of  leaves. 

i.  Tuber  Cuttings. — Tubers  are  thickened  portions  of  either 
roots  or  stems,  and  tuber  cuttings  therefore  fall  logically  under 
classes  2  and  3  ;  but  they  are  so  unlike  ordinary  cuttings  that 
a  separate  classification  is  desirable.  Tubers  are  stored  with 
starch,  which  is  designed  to  support  or  supply  the  plant  in  time 
of  need.  Tuber  cuttings  are  therefore  able  to  support  them- 
selves for  a  time  if  they  are  placed  in  conditions  suited  to  their 
vegetation.  Roots  rarely  arise  from  the  tubers  themselves,  but 
from  the  base  of  the  young  shoots  which  spring  from  them. 
This  fact  is  familiarly  illustrated  in  the  cuttings  of  Irish  and 
sweet  potatoes.  The  young  sprouts  can  be  removed  and  planted 
separately  and  others  will  arise  from  the  tuber  to  take  their 
places.  This  practice  is  employed  sometimes  with  new  or  scarce 
varieties  of  the  Irish  potato,  and  three  or  four  crops  of  rooted 
sprouts  can  be  obtained  from  one  tuber.  The  tuber  is  cut  in 
two  lengthwise  and  is  then  laid  in  damp  moss  or  loose  earth 
with  the  cut  surface  down,  and  as  soon  as  the  sprouts  throw  out 
roots  sufficient  to  maintain  them  they  are  severed  and  potted 
off.  Sweet  potatoes  are  nearly  always  propagated  in  this  manner. 

In  making  tuber  cuttings,  at  least  one  eye  or  bud  is  left  to 
each  piece,  if  eyes  are  present  ;  but  in  root-tubers,  like  the  sweet 
potato,  there  are  no  buds,  and  it  is  only  necessary  to  leave  upon 
each  portion  a  piece  of  the  epidermis  from  which  adventitious 
buds  may  develop.  The  pseudo-bulbs  of  some  orchids  are 
treated  in  this  manner,  or  the  whole  bulb  is  sometimes  planted. 
A  shoot,  usually  termed  an  off-shoot,  arises  from  each  pseudo- 
bulb  or  each  piece  of  it,  and  this  is  potted  off  as  an  independent 
plant.  (See  Orchids,  in  Chapter  VI.) 

Cuttings  made  from  the  ordinary  stems  of  some  tuberiferous 
plants  will  produce  tubers  instead  of  plants.  This  is  the  case 
sometimes  with  the  potato.  The  cutting  produces  a  small  tuber 
near  its  lower  extremity,  or  sometimes  in  the  axil  of  a  leaf 
above  ground,  and  this  tuber  must  be  planted  to  secure  a  new 
plant  Leaf  cuttings  of  some  tuberiferous  or  bulbiferous  plants 
produce  little  tubers  or  bulbs  in  the  same  way.  Hyacinth 


CUTJ^AGE. 


53 


Fig.  46.     Root  cutting  of  Blackberry. 


leaves,  inserted  in  sand  in  a  frame,  will  soon  produce  little  bulb- 
lets  at  their  base,  and  these  can  be  removed  and  planted  in  the 

same  manner  as  the  bulbels 
described  in  Chapter  II. 

Many  tubers  or  tuber-like 
portions,  which  possess  a 
very  moist  or  soft  interior 
and  a  hard  or  close  covering, 
vegetate  more  satisfactorily  if  allowed  to  dry  for  a  time  before 
planting.  The  pseudo-bulbs  of  orchids,  crowns  of  pine-apples 
and  cuttings  of  cactuses  are  examples.  Portions  of  cactuses 
and  pine-apples  are  sometimes  allowed  to  lie  in  the  sun  from 
two  to  four  weeks  before  planting.  This  treatment  dissipates 
the  excessive  moisture  and  induces  the  formation  of  adventitious 
buds. 

2.  Root  Cuttings. — Many  plants  can  be  multiplied  with  ease 
by  means  of  short  cuttings  of  the  roots,  particularly  all  species 
which  posses  a  natural  tendency  to  "sucker"  or  send  up  sprouts 

from  the  root.  All 
root-stocks  or  un- 
derground stems 
can  be  made  into 
cuttings.  True  root 
cuttings  possess  no 
buds  whatever; 
the  buds  develop 
after  the  cutting  is 
planted  Roots 
are  cut  into  pieces 
from  one  to  three 
inches  long  and  are 
planted  horizon- 
tally in  soil  or  moss. 

These     cuttings 
Fig.  47-    Root  cutting  of  Dracaena.  ^.^    begt    wjth 

bottom  heat,  but  blackberries  and  some  other  plants,  grow  readily 
with  ordinary  out-door  treatment.     A  root  cutting  of  the  black- 


,.4  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

berry  is  shown  in  Fig.  46.  (See  Blackberry,  in  Chapter  VI.) 
A  growing  dracaena  cutting  is  exhibited  in  Fig.  47.  The  cuttings 
of  this  plant  are  handled  in  a  propagating  frame  or  on  a  cutting 
bench  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  The  bouvardias  and  many  other 
plants  can  be  grown  in  the  same  manner.  Many  of  the  fruit  trees, 
as  peach,  cherry,  apple  and  pear,  can  be  grown  readily  from  these 
short  root  cuttings  in  a  frame.  Variegation  cannot  always  be 
transmitted  by  root-cutting,  e.  g. ,  Symphytum  asperrimum,  varie- 
gatmn.  Among  kitchen  garden  plants,  the  horse-radish  is  the 
most  familiar  example  of  propagation  by  root-cuttings.  The 
small  side  roots,  a  fourth  inch  or  so  in  diameter,  are  removed 
when  the  horse-radish  is  dug  in  fall  or  spring,  and  are  cut  into 
four  to  six  inch  lengths,  as  seen  in  Fig.  48.  These  cuttings  are 
known  as  "sets"  among  gardeners.  (See  Horse-radish,  Chap. 


Fig.  48.    Horse-radish  root  cuttings. 

ter  VI.)  When  the  crowns  of  horse-radish  are  cut  and  used  for 
propagation,  the  operation  falls  strictly  under  division,  from  the 
fact  that  buds  or  eyes  are  present  ;  and  the  same  remark  applies 
to  rhubarb,  which,  however,  is  not  propagated  by  true  root- 
cuttings. 

3.  Stem  Cuttings.— Cuttings  of  the  stem  divide  themselves 
into  two  general  classes  :  those  known  as  cutting  of  the  ripe, 
mature  or  hard  wood,  and  cuttings  of  the  green,  immature  or 
soft  wood.  The  two  classes  run  irrto  each  other  ;  no  hard  and 
fast  lines  can  be  drawn. 

Hard-wood  cuttings  are  made  at  any  time  from  late  summer 
to  spring.  It  is  advisable  to  make  them  in  the  fall  in  order  to 
allow  them  to  callus  before  the  planting  season,  and  to  forestall 


CUTTA  CE. 


55 


injury  which  might  result  to  the  parent  plant  from  a  severe  win- 
ter. They  may  be  taken  as  early  as  August,  or  as 
soon  as  the  wood  is  mature,  and  be  stripped  of  leaves. 
Callusing  can  then  take  place  in  time  to  allow  of  fall 
planting.  Or  the  cuttings  taken  in  early  fall  may  be 
planted  immediately  and  be  allowed  to  callus  where 
they  stand.  All  fall  cutting  beds  should  be  mulched 
to  prevent  the  heaving  of  the  cuttings.  As  a  rule, 
however,  hard-wood  cuttings  are  buried  on  a  sandy 
knoll  or  are  stored  in  moss,  sand  or  sawdust  in  a  cellar 
until  spring.  (See  page  50.) 

There  is  no  general  rule  to  govern  the  length  of 
of  hard-wood  cuttings.  Most  propagators  prefer  to 
make  them  six  to  ten  inches  long,  as  this  is  a  conven- 
ient length  to  handle.  Two  buds  are  always  to  be 
taken,  one  bud  or  one  pair  at  the  top  and  also  at  the 
bottom,  but  in  "short-jointed"  plants  more  are  ob- 
tained Sometimes  all  but  the  top  buds  are  removed 
to  prevent  the  appearance  of  too  many  shoots.  Grape 
cuttings  are  now  commonly  cut  to  two  or  three  buds 
(Fig.  43),  two  being  the  favorite  number  for  most 
varieties.  (See  Grape,  Chapter  VI.)  Currant  and 
gooseberry  cuttings  (Fig.  49)  usually  bear  from  six  to 
ten  buds.  All  long  hard-wood  cuttings  are  set  perpen- 
dicularly, or  nearly  so,  and  only  one  or  two  buds  are 
allowed  to  stand  above  the  surface. 

When  the  stock  is  rare,  cuttings  are  made  of  single 
eyes  or  buds.  This  is  particularly  the  case  with  the 
grape  (see  Chapter  VI),  and  currants  and  many  other 
plants  are  occasionally  grown  in  the  same  manner. 
Fig.  50  shows  a  single  eye  grape  cutting.  These  cut- 
tings, whatever  the  species,  are  commonly  started 
under  glass  with  bottom  heat,  either  upon  a  cutting 
bench  or  in  a  hot-bed.  The  soil  should  be  kept  uni- 
formly moist,  and  when  the  leaves  appear  the  plants 
should  be  frequently  sprinkled.  In  from  thirty  to 


Fig.  49. 
CUrrant 
cutting. 


forty  days  the  plants  are  ready  to  pot  off.     Single  eye  cuttings 


56  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

are  usually  started  about  three  or  four  months  before  the  season 
is  fit  for  out-door  planting,  or  about  February  in  the  northern 

states.  The  most  ad- 
visable method  of 
treatment  varies  with 

the  season  and  locality 
Fig.  5°-    Single-eye  Grape  cutting.  . 

as   well   as   with    the 

species  or  variety.  It  is  well  known,  for  instance,  that  the  Dela- 
ware grape  can  be  propagated  more  easily  in  some  regions  than 
in  others  A  common  style  of  single-eye  cutting  is  made  with  the 
eye  close  to  the  top  end,  and  a  naked  base  of  an  inch  or  two. 
This  is  inserted  into  the  soil  perpendicularly,  with  the  eye  just 
above  the  surface.  It  is  much  used  for  a  variety  of  plants. 

Many  coniferous  plants  are  increased  by  cuttings  on  a  large 
scale,  especially  retinosporas,  arbor-vitaes,  and  the  like.  Cuttings 
are  made  of  the  mature  wood,  which  is  planted  at  once  (in 
autumn)  in  sand  under  cover,  usually  in  a  cool  greenhouse. 
Most  of  the  species  root  slowly  and  they  often  remain  in  the 
original  flats  or  benches  a  year,  but  their  treatment  is  usually 
simple.  In  some  cases  junipers,  yews  and  Cryptomeria  Japonica 
will  not  make  roots  for  nearly  twelve  months,  keeping  in  good 
foliage  however,  and  ultimately  giving  good  plants,.  (For  more  ex- 
plicit directions,  see  Thuya  and  Retinospora  in  Chapter  VI.) 

Most  remarkable  instances  of  propagation  by  means  of  por- 
tions of  stems  are  on  record.  Chips  from  a  tree  trunk  have 
been  known  to  produce  plants,  and  the  olive  is  readily  increased 
by  knots  or  excrescences  formed  upon  the  trunks  of  old  trees. 
These  excrescences  occur  in  many  plants  and  are  known  as 
knaurs.  They  are  often  abundant  about  the  base  of  large 
plane-trees.  But  they  are  not  often  used  for  purposes  of  propa- 
gation. Whole  trunks  will  sometimes  grow  after  having  been 
cut  for  many  months,  especially  of  such  plants  as  cactuses, 
many  euphorbias  and  yuccas.  And  sections  of  these  spongy 
trunks  will  grow,  also.  Even  saw-logs  of  our  common  trees,  as 
elm  and  ash,  will  sprout  while  in  the  "boom,"  or  water. 

Green-wood  cuttings  are  more  commonly  employed  than  those 


CUTTA  G E. 


57 


from  the  mature  wood,  as  they  "strike"  more  quickly,  they  can 
be  handled  under  glass  in  the  winter,  and  more  species  can  be 
propagated  by  them  than  by  hard-wood  cuttings.  "Slips"  are 
green-wooded  cuttings,  but  the  term  is  often  restricted  to  desig- 
nate those  which  are  made  by  pulling  or  "slipping"  off  a  small 
side-shoot.  All  soft-wooded  plants  and  many  ornamental  shrubs 
are  increased  by  green  cuttings.  There  are  two  general  classes  of 
green-wood  cuttings  :  those  made  from  the  soft  and  still  growing 
wood,  and  those  made  from  the  nearly  ripened  green-wood,  as  in 
Azalea  Indica,  oleander,  ficus,  etc,  House  plants,  as  geraniums, 
coleuses,  carnations,  fuchsias,  and  the  like,  are  grown  from  the 
soft  young  wood,  and  many  harder-wooded  plants  are  grown  in 
the  same  way.  Sometimes  truly  hard  wood  is  used,  as  in 
camellia. 

In  making  cuttings  from  soft  and  growing  shoots,  the  first 
thing  to  learn  is  the  proper  texture  or  age  of  shoot.  A  very  soft 
and  flabby  cutting  does  not  grow  readily,  or  if  it  does  it  is  par- 
ticularly liable  to  damp  off,  and  it  usually  makes  a  weak  plant. 

Too  old  wood  is  slow  to  root, 
makes  a  poor  plant  and  is  han- 
dled with  difficulty  in  many 
species.  The  ordinary  test  for 
beginners  is  the  manner  in 
which  the  shoot  breaks.  If, 
upon  being  bent,  the  shoot 
snaps  off  squarely  so  as  to 
hang  together  with  only  a  bit 
of  bark,  as  in  the  upper  break 
in  Fig.  51,  it  is  in  the  proper 
condition  for  cuttings  ;  but  if 
it  bends  or  simply  crushes,  as 
in  the  lower  portion  of  the 
figure,  it  is  either  too  old  or 
Fig.  51.  Tough  and  brittle  wood.  too  young  for  good  results. 

The  tips  of  the  shoots  of  soft-wooded  plants  are  usually  em- 
ployed, and  all  or  a  portion  of  the  leaves  are  allowed  to  remain. 

N.   B.— 5 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Fig.  52.    Soft  cuttings. 


They  are  inserted  in  sharp  sand  to  a  sufficient  depth  to  hold 
them  in  place,  and  the  atmosphere  and  soil  must  be  kept  moist 

to  prevent  wilting  or 
' '  flagging  "  The  cut- 
tings should  also  be 
shaded  for  the  first 
week  or  two.  A  propa- 
gating-frame  is  often 
employed.  Soft  cut- 
tings are  commonly 
cut  below  a  bud  or  cut 
to  a  heel,  but  this  is 
unnecessary  in  easily 
rooted  plants  like  geranium,  coleus,  heliotrope,  etc.  Fig.  52 
shows  an  oleander  cutting  at  a,  a  carnation  at  b,  and  a  geranium 
at  c.  A  coleus  cutting  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  53.  Sometimes  the 
growth  is  so  short  or  the  stock  so  scarce  that  the  cutting  cannot 
be  made  long  enough  to  hold  itself  in  the  soil.  In  such  case  a 
toothpick  or  splinter  is  tied  to  the  cutting  to  hold  it  erect,  as  in 
the  cactus  cutting,  Fig.  54,  or  the  geranium  cutting,  Fig.  55.  In 
the  window  garden,  soft  cuttings  may  be  started  in  a  deep  plate 
which  is  filled  half  or  two-thirds  full  of  sand  and  is  then  filled  to 
the  brim  with  water,  and  not  shaded  ;  this  method,  practiced  on 
a  larger  scale,  is  sometimes  useful  during  the  hot  summer 
months.  If  bottom  heat  is  desired,  the  plate  may  be  set  upon 

the  back  part  of  the  kitchen 
stove.  Oleanders  usually  root 
best  when  mature  shoots  are 
placed  in  bottles  of  water. 

Cuttings  from  the  nearly  ma- 
ture green  wood  are  employed 
for  hard-wooded  trees  and 
shrubs,  as  diervillas  (weigela), 
roses,  hydrangeas,  lilacs,  etc. 
They  are  cut  in  essentially  the 
same  manner  as  the  hard-wood  cuttings  described  on  page  55. 
They  are  often  taken  in  summer  when  the  buds  have  developed 


53'    Coleus  cutting. 


CUTTAGE. 


59 


and  the  wood  has  about  attained  its  growth.     They  are  cut  to 

two  to  four  or  five  buds  and  are  planted  an  inch  or  two  deep  in 
shaded  frames.     They  are  kept  close  for  some  days 
after  setting,  and  the  tops  are  sprinkled  frequently. 
Care  must  be  taken  not  to  set  them  too  deep  ;  they  are 
rarely  put  in  over  an  inch,  if  the  cutting  is  six  or  seven 
inches  long.      "June  stock  cuttings"  are  sometimes 
advantageously  made  ;  here  the  young  shoots  of  hardy 
shrubs   are  taken,   when  about  two   to   three  inches 
long,  the  leaves  partly  removed,  and  they  are  planted 
under  glass,  precisely  as  the  geranium  is  treated  in  the 
autumn.     Several  weeks  are  required  for  rooting,  but 
good  plants  are  obtained  which,  when  wintered  in  a 
cold  frame,  can  be  planted  out  in  beds  the  next  spring. 
Great  care  must  be  given  to  shading  and  watering. 
Hydrangea  paniculata    var.    grandiflora,   and  Aktbia 
qtiinata  are  examples  ;  or  any 
•£•    54-    deutzia  or  more  easily  handled 
cutting  plant  of  which  stock  is  scarce 
held  by     may  be  cited, 
splinter.        paft  of  the  jeaves  are  remov- 
ed, as  a  rule,  before  the  cuttings  are  set,  as 

shown  in  the  rose  cutting,  Fig.  56,  and 

the  hydrangea  cutting,  Fig.  57.     This  is 

not    essential,    however,   but    it    lessens 

evaporation  and  the  tendency  to  "flag" 

or  wilt.     In  most  species  the  top  can  be 

cut  off  the  cutting,  as  seen  in  Figs.  44 

and  57,   but  in  other  cases  it  seriously 

injures   the   cutting.      Fig.    58  shows  a 

weigela  cutting  from  which  the  top  was 

clipped.  An  unusually  large  callus  formed 

at  the  bottom,  but  the  leaves  shrivelled 

and  the  cutting  is  dead.     This  frequently  Flg- 

occurs  in  what  some   nurserymen   call 

"end    growers,"   among    which    may   be    mentioned   weigelas 

(properly  diervillas),  the  shrubby  altheas,  Cerds  Japonica,  and 


6o 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


such  spireas  as  S.  era  tcegi folia,  S.  rotundifolia  var.  alba  and  S. 
Cantonensis  (S.  Reevesii  of  the  trade)  var.  robust  a. 

These  hardened  cuttings,  about  two 
inches  long,  are  often  made  in  the  winter 
from  forced  plants.  This  is  particularly 
the  case  with  roses  (which  see  in  Chapter 
VI).  Cuttings  taken  in  February,  in  the 
north,  will  be  ready  to  transfer  to  borders 
or  nursery  beds  when  spring  opens..  Stout, 
well-rooted  stock-plants  are  used  from 
which  to  obtain  these  cuttings,  and  they 
are  cut  back  when  taken  to  the  house  in 
the  fall  in  order 
to  induce  a  good 
growth.  Many 
hardy  shrubs 
can  be  easily 
propagated  i  n 
this  way  when 
the  work  is  dif- 
ficult in  the 

open  air,  e.  g.,  Spiraea  Cantonensis 
(S.  Reevesii  of  the  catalogues)  and 
S.  Van  Houttii.  Stock  plants  of  the 
soft  species,  like  coleus,  lantanas  and 
geraniums,  are  obtained  in  like  man- 
ner. 

4.  Leaf  Cuttings. — Many  thick  and 
heavy  leaves  may  be  used  as  cuttings. 
Leaf    cuttings    are    most    commonly 
employed    in    the   showy-leaved   be- 
gonias, in  succulents,  and  in  gloxin- 
ias, but  many  plants  can  be  propa- 
gated  by   them.      Even   the  cabbage    ^  ^    Hyd*nRea  cutting< 
can  be  made  to  grow  from  leaf  cut- 
tings.    The  whole  leaf  may  be  used,  as  shown  in  Fig.  59.     It 
is  simply  laid  upon  moist  sand  in  a  frame  and  held  down  by 


Fig.  56.    Rose  cutting. 


CUTTAGE. 


6 1 


splinters  thrust  through  the  ribs.  The  wound  made  by  the  peg 
induces  the  formation  of  roots  and  a  young  plant  arises.  A 
half  dozen  or  more  plants  can  be  obtained  from 
one  leaf.  Some  operators  cut  off  the  ribs,  in- 
stead of  wounding  them  with  a  prick.  Many 
gardeners  prefer  to  divide  the  leaf  -into  two 
nearly  equal  parts,  and  then  set  each  part,  or  the 
better  one,  upright  in  the  soil,  the  severed  edge 
being  covered.  This  is  shown  in  Fig.  60.  Fewer 
plants  —  often  only  one  —  are  obtained  in  this 
manner,  but  they  are  strong. 

When  stock  is  scarce  the  leaf  may  be  cut  into 
several  fan-shaped  pieces.  The  whole  leaf  may 
be  divided  into  as  many  triangular  portions  as 
can  be  obtained  with  a  portion  of  the  petiole,  a 
strong  rib,  or  vein  at  the  base  ;  these  inserted 
and  treated  like  coleus  cuttings  will  all  root  and 
make  good  plants  within  a  reasonable  time,  say 
six  months.  This  form  of  cutting  should  be 
two  to  three  inches  long  by  an  inch  or  inch  and 
one-half  wide.  Ordinarily,  in  this  style  of  leaf- 
cutting,  the  petiole  or  stalk  is  cut  off  close  to  the 
leaf  and  the  lower  third  or  fourth  of  the  leaf  is 
then  cut  off  by  a  nearly  straight  cut  across  the 
leaf.  This  somewhat  triangular  base  is  then  cut 
into  as  many 
Fig.  58.  Clipped  wedg e  -  s  h  a  p  e  d 


Weigela  cutting. 


pieces 


as    there 


are  ribs  in  the  leaf, 
each  rib  forming  the 
center  of  a  cutting. 
The  point  of  each  cut- 
ting should  contain  a 
portion  of  the  petiole. 
The  points  of  these 
triangular  portions  are 
inserted  in  the  soil  a  half  inch  or  so,  the  cutting  standing  erect 


Fig.  60.    A  upright  Begonia  leaf  cutting. 


f>2 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


or  nearly  so.      Roots  form  at  the  base  or  point  in  the  ordinary 
manner. 

Leaf  cuttings  are  handled  in  the  same  manner  as  soft  stem-cut- 
tings so  far  as  temperature  and  moisture  are  concerned.  There 
are  comparatively  few  species  in  which  they  form  the  most  avail- 
able means  of  multiplication.  In  some  cases,  variegation  will 
not  be  reproduced  by  the  rooted  leaf.  This  is  true  in  the  ivy- 
leaved  geranium  L'  Elegante  ;  a  good  plant  can  be  obtained,  but 
it  reverts  to  the  plain-leaved  type. 


«?    '  V'^-"  >"{<  "V  ' 

Fig.  59.    Begonia  leaf  cutting 


CHAPTER    V. 


GRAFTAGE. 

Graftage. — The  process  or  operation  of  grafting  or  budding,  or  the 
state  or  condition  of  being  grafted  or  budded. 

Grafting. — The  operation  of  inserting  a  bud  or  a  cion  in  a  stock.  It 
is  commonly  restricted  to  the  operation  of  inserting  cions  of  two  or  more 
buds,  in  distinction  from  budding,  or  the  operation  of  inserting  a  single 
bud  in  the  stock ;  but  there  are  no  essential  differences  between  the  two 
operations. 

Stock. — In  graftage,  a  plant  or  part  of  a  plant  upon  which  a  cion  or 
bud  is  set.  A  free  stock  is  a  seedling,  in  distinction  from  a  grafted  stock. 

Cion  or  Scion. — A  portion  of  a  plant  which  is  mechanically  inserted  upon 
the  same  or  another  plant  (stock)  with  the  intention  that  it  shall  grow. 

GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS.— Graftage  is  rarely  em- 
ployed for  the  propagation  of  the  species,  as  seedage 
and  cuttage  are  more  expeditious  and  cheaper.     Its 
chief  use  is  to  perpetuate  a  variety  which  does  not  re-produce 
itself  from  seeds  and  which  cannot  be  economically  grown  from 
cuttings. 

Nearly  all  the  named  varieties  of  tree  fruits  and  many  of 
those  of  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  are  perpetuated  by  means 
of  graftage.  In  some  species  which  present  no  marked  varie- 
ties, however,  propagation  by  seeds  or  cuttings  is  for  various 
reasons  so  difficult  or  uncertain  that  recourse  must  be  had  to 
graftage.  This  is  particularly  true  in  many  of  the  firs  and 
spruces  which  do  not  produce  seeds  to  any  extent  in  cultiva- 
tion. In  other  cases  graftage  is  performed  for  the  purpose  of 
producing  some  radical  change  in  the  character  or  habit  of  the 
plants,  as  in  the  dwarfing  of  pears  by  grafting  them  upon  the 
quince,  the  elevation  of  weeping  tops  by  working  them  upon 
upright  trunks,  and  the  acceleration  of  fruit-bearing  by  setting 
cions  in  old  plants.  It  is  sometimes  employed  to  aid  the  healing 
of  wounds  or  to  repair  and  fill  out  broken  tops.  And  it  has 
been  used  to  make  infertile  plants  fertile,  by  grafting  in  the  mis- 

63 


64  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

sing  sex  in  dioecious  trees,  or  a  variety  with  more  potent  pollen 
as  practiced  in  some  of  the  native  plums.  All  these  uses  of 
graftage  fall  under  three  heads1  i.  Ta  perpetuate  a  variety. 
•z.  To  increase  ease  and  speed  of  multiplication.  3.  To  pro- 
duce some  radical  change  in  nature  or  habit  of  cion  or  stock. 

Probably  all  exogenous  plants — those  which  possess  a  distinct 
bark  and  pith — can  be  grafted.  Plants  must  be  more  or  less 
closely  related  to  each  other  to  allow  of  successful  graftage  of 
the  one  upon  the  other.  What  the  affinities  are  in  any  case  can 
be  known  only  by  experiment.  As  a  rule,  plants  of  close 
botanical  relationship,  especially  those  of  the  same  genus,  graft 
upon  each  other  with  more  or  less  ease  ;  yet  this  relationship  is 
by  no  means  a  safe  guide.  A  plant  will  often  thrive  better  upon 
a  species  of  another  genus  than  upon  a  congener.  The  pear, 
for  instance,  does  better  upon  many  thorns  than  upon  the  apple. 
Sometimes  plants  of  very  distinct  genera  unite  readily.  Thus 
among  cacti  the  leafless  epiphyllum  grows  remarkably  well 
upon  the  leaf-bearing  pereskia.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  union  of  tissues  is  not  a  proof  of  affinity.  Affinity  can  be 
measured  only  by  the  thrift,  healthfulness  and  longevity  of  the 
cion.  The  bean  has  been  known  to  make  a  union  with  the 
chrysanthemum,  but  it  almost  immediately  died.  Soft  tissues, 
in  particular,  often  combine  in  plants  which  possess  no  affinity 
whatever,  as  we  commonly  understand  the  term.  Neither 
does  affinity  refer  to  relative  sizes  or  rates  of  growth  of  stock 
and  cion,  although  the  term  is  sometimes  used  in  this  sense.  It 
cannot  be  said  that  some  varieties  of  pear  lack  affinity  for  the 
quince,  and  yet  the  pear  cion  grows  much  larger  than  the  stock. 
In  fact,  it  is  just  this  difference  in  size  and  rate  of  growth  which 
constitutes  the  value  of  the  quince  root  for  dwarfing  the  pear. 
When  there  is  a  marked  difference  in  rate  of  growth  between 
the  stock  and  cion,  an  enlargement  will  occur  in  the  course 
of  time,  either  above  or  below  the  union.  If  this  occurs  upon 
the  stem,  it  makes  an  unsightly  tree.  If  the  cion  greatly  out- 
grows the  stock  a  weak  tree  is  the  result. 

Graftage  can  be  performed  at  almost  any  time  of  the  year, 
but  the  practice  must  be  greatly  varied  to  suit  the  season  and 


GRAFTAGE.  65 

other  conditions.  The  one  essential  point  is  to  make  sure  that 
the  cambium  layers,  lying  between  the  bark  and  wood,  meet  as 
nearly  as  possible  in  the  cion  and  stock.  This  cambium  is  al- 
ways present  in  live  parts,  forming  woody  substance  from  its 
inner  surface  and  bark  from  its  outer  surface.  During  the 
season  of  greatest  growth  it  usually  occurs  as  a  soft,  mucilagin- 
ous and  more  or  less  unorganized  substance,  and  in  this  stage  it 
most  readily  repairs  and  unites  wounded  surfaces.  And  for  this 
reason  the  grafting  and  budding  of  old  trees  are  usually  per- 
formed in  the  spring.  Later  in  the  season,  the  cambium  be- 
comes firmer  and  more  differentiated,  and  union  of  woody  parts 
is  more  uncertain.  It  is  also  necessary  to  cover  the  wounds  in 
order  to  check  evaporation  from  the  tissues.  In  out-door  work 
wax  is  commonly  used  for  all  species  of  graftage  which  wound 
the  wood  itself,  but  in  budding,  the  loosened  bark,  bound  down 
securely  by  a  bandage,  affords  sufficient  protection.  It  is  com- 
monly supposed  that  an  ordinary  cleft  graft  cannot  live  if  the 
bark  of  the  stock  immediately  adjoining  it  is  seriously  wounded, 
but  the  bark  really  serves  little  purpose  beyond  protection  of 
the  tissues  beneath.  A  cion  will  grow  when  the  bark  is  entirely 
removed  from  the  stub  if  some  adequate  protection  can  be  given 
which  will  not  interfere  with  the  formation  of  new  bark.  The 
cion  must  always  possess  at  least  one  good  bud.  In  most  cases, 
only  buds  which  are  mature  or  nearly  so  are  used,  but  in  the 
grafting  of  herbs  very  young  buds  may  be  employed.  These 
simple  requirements  can  be  satisfied  in  an  almost  innumerable 
variety  of  ways.  The  cion  or  bud  may  be  inserted  in  the  root, 
crown,  trunk  or  any  of  the  branches  ;  it  may  be  set  under  the 
bark  simply  or  inserted  into  the  wood  itself  in  almost  any  fash- 
ion ;  and  the  operation  may  be  performed  either  upon  growing 
or  dormant  plants  at  any  season.  But  in  practice  there  are 
comparatively  few  methods  which  are  sufficiently  simple  and 
expeditious  to  admit  of  generaLuse. 

Graftage  may  be  divided  into  three  general  divisions,  between 
which,  however,  there  are  no  decisive  lines  of  separation  :  r. 
Bud-grafting  or  budding,  in  which  a  single  bud  is  inserted  upon 
the  surface  of  the  wood  of  the  stock.  2.  Cion-grafting  or  graft- 


66  THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 

ing  proper,  in  which  a  detached  twig  bearing  one  or  more  buds 
is  inserted  into  or  upon  the  stock.  3.  Inarching  or  grafting  by 
approach,  in  which  the  cion  remains  attached  to  the  parent 
plant  until  union  takes  place.  Each  of  these  divisions  can  be 
almost  endlessly  varied  and  sub-divided,  but  in  this  discussion 
only  the  leading  practices  can  be  detailed.  The  following 
enumeration,  after  Baltet,  will  give  a  fair  idea  of  the  kinds  of 
grafting  which  have  been  employed  under  distinct  names  : 

I.    Bud-Grafting  or  Budding. 

i.— Grafting  with  shield-buds. 

Bud-grafting  under  the  bark,  or  by  inoculation. 
"          "         ordinary  method. 
"          "          with  a  cross-shaped  incision. 

"     the  incision  reversed, 
by  veneering. 

Bud-grafting,  the  combined  or  double  method. 
2. — Flute-grafting. 

"         common  method. 

with  strips  of  bark. 

2.    Cion-Grafting  or  Grafting  Proper. 

i. — Side-grafting  under  the  bark. 

with  a  simple  branch, 
with  a  heeled  branch, 
in  the  alburnum, 
with  a  straight  cleft, 
with  an  oblique  cleft. 
2 .  — Crown-grafting. 
Ordinary  method. 
Improved  method. 
3. — Grafting  de  precision. 

Veneering,  common  method. 
' '  in  crown-grafting. 

with  strips  of  bark. 
Crown-grafting  by  inlaying. 
Side-grafting  by  inlaying. 
4. — Cleft-grafting,  common  single. 


CRAFTAGE.  67 

Cleft-grafting,  common  double, 
oblique, 
terminal. 

"  "          woody. 

"          "  "         herbaceous. 

5. — Whip-grafting,  simple. 

complex. 
Saddle-grafting. 
6.  — Mixed-grafting. 

Grafting  with  cuttings. 

When  the  cion  is  a  cutting. 

When  the  stock  is  a  cutting. 

When  both  are  cuttings. 

Root-grafting  of  a  plant  on  its  own  root. 

' '      the  roots  of  another  plant. 
Grafting  with  fruit  buds. 

3.    Inarching:  or  Grafting  by  Approach. 

i.— Method  by  veneering. 

"         "  inlaying. 
English  method. 
2. — Inarching  with  an  eye. 

"  "a  branch. 

Particular  Methods. — Budding.  Budding  is  the  operation  of 
inserting  a  single  bud,  bearing  little  or  no  wood,  upon  the  surface 
of  the  stock.  The  bud  is  nearly  always  inserted  under  the  bark 
of  the  stock,  but  in  flute-budding  a  piece  of  bark  is  entirely  re- 
moved and  the  bud  is  used  to  cover  the  wound.  There  is  no 
general  rule  to  determine  what  species  of  plants  should  be  bud- 
ded and  which  ones  cion  grafted.  In  fact,  the  same  species  is 
often  multiplied  by  both  operations.  Plants  with  thin  bark  and 
an  abundance  of  sap  are  likely  to  do  best  when  grafted  ;  or  if 
they  are  budded,  the  buds  should  be  inserted  at  a  season  when 
the  sap  is  least  abundant  to  prevent  the  "strangulation"  or 
"throwing  out"  of  the  bud.  In  such  species  the  bark  is  not 
strong  enough  to  hold  the  bud  firmly  until  it  unites  ;  and  solid 
union  does  not  take  place  until  the  flow  of  sap  lessens.  Budding 


68  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

is  largely  employed  upon  nearly  all  young  fruit-trees,  and  almost 
universally  so  upon  the  stone-fruits.  It  is  also  used  in  roses, 
and  many  ornamental  trees.  Budding  is  commonly  performed 
during  the  growing  season,  usually  in  late  summer  or  early  fall, 
because  mature  buds  can  be  procured  at  that  time  and  young 
stocks  are  then  large  enough  to  be  worked  readily.  But  bud- 
ding can  be  done  in  early  spring,  just  as  soon  as  the  bark 
loosens  ;  in  this  case  perfectly  dormant  buds  must  have  been 
taken  in  winter.  Budding  is  always  best  performed  when  the 
bark  slips  or  peels  easily.  It  can  be  done  when  the  bark  is 
tight,  but  the  operation  is  then  tedious  and  uncertain. 

SHIELD-BUDDING. — There  is  but  one  style  of  budding  in  gen- 
eral use  in  this  country.  This  is  known  as  shield-budding,  from 
the  shield-like  shape  of  the  portion  of  bark  which  is  removed 
with  the  bud.  Technically,  the  entire  severed  portion,  com- 
prising both  bark  and  bud,  is  called  a  "  bud."  A  shield  bud  is 
shown  natural  size  in  Fig.  61.  This  is  cut  from  a  young  twig 
of  the  present  season's  growth.  It  is  inserted  underneath  the 
bark  of  a  young  stock  or  branch,  and  is  then  securely  tied,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  65. 

The  minor  details  of  shield-budding  differ  with  nearly  every 
operator.  In  commercial  practice,  it  is  performed  in  the  north 
from  early  July  until  the  middle  of  September.  In  the  south- 
ern states  it  usually  begins  in  June.  As  a  rule,  apples  and  pears 
are  budded  before  peaches.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  peach- 
stocks  are  nearly  always  budded  the  same  season  the 
pits  are  planted,  and  the  operation  must  be  delayed 
until  the  stocks  are  large  enough  to  be  worked. 
Most  other  fruit-stocks,  especially  apples  and  pears, 
are  not  budded  until  two  years  after  the  seeds  are 
sown.  The  plants  grow  for  the  first  season  in  a 
seed-bed.  The  next  spring  they  are  transplanted 
into  nursery  rows,  and  budded  when  they  become 
Fig.  61.  large  enough,  which  is  usually  the  same  year  they 
Shield-bud.  are  transplanted.  The  nurseryman  reckons  the 
age  of  his  stock  from  the  time  of  transplanting,  and  the  age 
of  the  marketable  tree  from  the  time  when  the  buds  or  grafts 


GRAFTAGE.  69 

begin  to  grow.  The  young  stocks  are  "dressed"  or  trimm- 
ed before  being  set  into  the  nursery.  This  operation  con- 
sists in  cutting  off  a  fourth  or  third  of  the  top  and  the 
tap  root.  This  causes  the  roots  to  spread  and  induces 
a  vigorous  growth  of  top  because  it  reduces  the  num- 
bers of  shoots  ;  and  such  stocks  are  more  expedi- 
tiously  handled  than  long  and  untrimmed  ones. 

Stocks  should  be  at  least  three-eighths  inch  in  diame- 
ter to  be  budded  with  ease.  Just  before  the  buds  are 
set,  the  leaves  are  removed  from  the  base  of  the  stock 
so  that  they  will  not  interfere  with  the  operation. 
They  are  usually  rubbed  off  with  the  hand  for  a 
space  of  five  or  six  inches  above  the  ground.  They 
should  not  be  removed  more  than  two  or  three  days  in 
advance  of  budding,  else  the  growth  of  the  parts  will 
be  checked  and  the  bark  will  set  ;  any  branches,  too, 
as  in  the  quince,  which  might  impede  the  work  of  the 
budder,  are  to^be  cut  off  at  the  same  time.  The  bud 
is  inserted  an  inch  or  two  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground  or  as  low  down  as  the  budder  can  work.  The 
advantage  of  setting  the  bud  low  is  to  bring  the  resulting 
crook  or  union  where  it  will  not  be  seen.  It  is  a  com- 
mon and  good  practice,  also,  to  place  the  bud  upon  the 
north  side  of  the  stock  to  shield  it  from  the  sun. 

The  buds  are  taken  from  strong  and  well  hardened 
shoots  of  the  season's  growth  and  of  "the  desired 
variety.  Usually  the  whole  of  the  present  growth  is 
Fig.  62.  A  cut,  the  leaves  are  removed,  but  a  part  of  the  petiole 
stick  of  or  stalk  of  each  leaf  is  left  (as  in  Figs.  61  and  62)  to 
buds-  serve  as  a  handle  to  the  bud.  This  trimmed  shoot  is 
then  called  a  "stick."  A  stick  may  bear  two  dozen  good  buds 
when  the  growth  has  been  strong,  but  only  ten  or  twelve  buds 
are  commonly  secured.  The  upper  buds,  which  are  commonly 
not  fully  grown  and  which  are  borne  on  soft  wood,  are  usually 
discarded.  The  buds  are  cut  with  a  thin-bladed  sharp  knife. 
Various  styles  of  budding  knives  arc  in  use,  and  the  budder 
usually  has  decided  preferences  for  some  particular  pattern. 


7° 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


The  essentials  of  a  good  budding  knife  are  these  :  the  very  best 
steel,  a  thin  blade  which  has  a  curved  cutting  end  (as  shown  in 
Figs.  63  and  66),  and  lightness.  The  curved  end  of  the  blade  is 
used  for  making  the  incisions  in  the  stock.  The  handle  of  the 
budding-knife  usually  runs  into  a  thin  bone  scalpel  at  the  end, 
and  this  portion  is  designed  for  the  lifting  or  loosening  of  the 
bark  on  the  stock.  Some  budders,  however,  raise  the  bark  with 
the  blade.  A  good  form  of  blade,  but  one  seldom  made,  has 
a  rounded  end,  the  upper  side  of  the  curve  being  ground  simply 
to  a  thin  edge.  This  blade  may  be  used  both  for  cutting  the 
bark  and  loosening  it,  thus  overcoming  the  necessity  of  revers- 
ing the  knife  everytime  a  bud  is  set.  If  this  form  of  blade  were 
commonly  known  it  would  undoubtedly  soon  come  into  favor. 
The  blade  of  a  common  budding-knife  can  be  ground  to  this 
shape. 

The  bud  is  usually  cut  about  an  inch  long.  Most  budders  cut 
from  below  upwards,  but  some  prefer  to  make  a  downward  in- 
cision. It  does  not  matter  just  how  the  bud  is  cut,  if  the  sur- 
faces are  smooth  and  even  and  the  bud  is  not  too  thick.  On  a 
stick  a  fourth  or  three-eighths  inch  through,  the  cut,  at  its  deepest 
point  just  under  the  bud,  is  about  one-fourth  the  diameter  of  the 
twig.  A  bit  of  wood  is  therefore  removed  with  the  bud,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  61.  There  is  some  discussion  as  to  whether  this 
wood  should  be  left  upon  the  bud,  but  no  definite  experiments 
have  been  made  to  show  that  it  is  injurious  to  the  resulting  tree. 
Some  budders  remove  the  wood  with  the  point  of  the  knife  or 
by  a.  cleft  twist  as  the  bud  is  removed  from  the  stick.  But  buds 
appear  to  live  equally  well  with  wood  attached  or  removed. 
Some  propagators'  cut  the  buds  as  they  go,  while  others  prefer 
to  cut  a  whole  stick  before  setting  any,  letting  each  bud  hang  by 
a  bit  of  bark  at  the  top  and  which  is  cut  off  squarely  when 
wanted,  as  shown  in  Fig.  62. 

The  wound  or  matrix  which  is  to  receive  the  bud  is  made  by 
two  incisions,  one  vertical  and  one  transverse  (Fig.  63).  These 
are  light  cuts,  extending  only  through  the  bark.  The  vertical 
slit  is  usually  made  first  and  by  the  rounded  end  of  the  blade, 
is  an  inch  or  inch  and  a  half  long.  The  transverse  cut  is 


GRAFT  A  GE. 


7> 


made  across  the  top  of  the  vertical  cut  by  one  rocking  motion 
of  the  blade  towards  the  body      The  corners  of  the  bark  may 

be  lifted  a  little  by  an  outward 
motion  of  the  blade  so  as  to. 
allow  the  bud  to  be  pushed  in, 
but  unless  the  bark  slips  very 
freely  it  will  have  to  be  loosened 
by  the  end  of  the  blade  or  by  the 
scalpel  on  the  reverse  end  of  the 
handle,  as  previously  described. 
The  bud  is  now  inserted  in  the 
cleft  of  the  bark.  It  is  pushed 
down  part  way  by  the  fingers,  as 
in  Fig.  64,  but  it  is  usually 
driven  home  by  pushing  down 
upon  the  leaf-stalk  handle  with 
the  back  of  the  knife-blade. 
The  entire  bud  should  pass  into 
the  cleft  ;  or  if  a  portion  of  it 


Fig.  63.     Preparing  the  stock. 


should  project  above  it  should  be  cut  off.  If  the  bark  peels 
freely,  the  bud  will  slip  in  easily  and  will  follow  the  cleft,  but  if 
it  sticks  somewhat,  more  care  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  bud 
from  running  out.  If  the  bark  is  very  tight,  it  may  have  to  be 
loosened  with  the  knife  throughout  the  length  of  the  cleft  ;  but 
budding  should  be  performed,  if  possible,  when  such  pains  are 
not  necessary. 

The  bud  must  now  be  tied.  The  whole  matrix  should  be 
closed  and  bound  securely,  as  represented  in  Fig.  65.  The  dot- 
ted lines  parallel  with  the  cleft  show  the  extent  to  which  the  bud 
projects  under  the  bark.  The  string  is  usually  started  below 
the  bud,  the  end  being  held  by  lapping  the  second  course  over  it, 
and  the  upper  end  being  secured  by  drawing  a  bow  through 
under  the  upper  course.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  bind  the 
string  over  the  bud  itself.  The  strings  are  previously  cut  the 
required  length  —  about  a  foot  —  and  the  tying  is  performed  very 
quickly.  Any  soft  cord  can  be  employed.  Yarn  and  carpet 
warp  are  sometimes  used.  The  most  common  material,  at  least 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


until  the  last  few  years,  has  been  bass  matting.  This  is  the 
inner  bark  of  the  bass-wood  or  linden.  The  bark  is  stripped  in 

early  summer,  and  the  inner 
portion  is  macerated  or  ' '  rotted  " 
in  water  for  four  or  five  weeks. 
It  is  then  removed,  cut  into  the 
desired  lengths,  and  stripped  into 
narrow  bands  —  one-fourth  t  o 
one-half  inch  wide  —  when  it 
may  be  sorted  and  stored  away 
for  future  use.  If  it  is  stiff  and 
harsh  when  it  comes  from  the 
maceration,  it  should  be  pounded 
lightly  or  rubbed  through  the 
hands  until  it  becomes  soft  and 
pliable.  The  best  tying  material 
which  we  now  have  is  undoubt- 
edly raffia  It  is  an  imported 
article,  coming  from  the  eastern 
tropics  (the  product  of  the  palm 
Raphia  Ruffiti],  but  it  is  so  cheap 
Fig.  64.  Bud  entering  matrix.  tfaat  it  win  probabiy  supersede 

even  bass-bark,  it  is  strong  and  pliable,  and  is  an  excellent 
material  for  tying  up  plants  in  the  greenhouse,  or  small  ones 
out-doors.  The  greatest  disadvantage  in  its  use  in  the  budding 
field  is  its  habit  of  rolling  when  it  becomes  dry. 

In  two  or  three  weeks  after  the  bud  is  set  it  will  have  "  stuck  " 
or  united  to  the  stock.  The  bandage  must  then  be  removed  or 
cut.  It  is  the  common  practice  to  draw  a  budding-knife  over 
the  strings,  on  the  side  opposite  the  bud,  completely  severing 
them  and  allowing  them  to  fall  off  as  they  will.  If  the  strings 
are  left  on  too  long  they  will  constrict  the  stem  and  often  kill  the 
bud,  and  they  also  have  a  tendency  to  cause  the  bud  to  "break  " 
or  begin  to  grow.  The  bud  should  remain  perfectly  dormant 
until  spring,  for  if  it  should  begin  to  grow  it  will  be  injured  and 
perhaps  killed  by  the  winter.  It  should  remain  green  and 
fresh  ;  if  it  shrivels  and  becomes  brown,  even  though  it  still 


GRAFTA'GE. 


73 


adheres  to  the  stock,  it  is  worthless.  Advantage  can  be  taken, 
when  cutting  the  tyings,  to  rebud  any  stocks  which  have  failed. 
If  the  bud  should  begin  to  grow, 
because  of  a  warm  and  wet  fall  or 
other  reasons,  there  is  little  remedy 
except  perhaps  to  head  the  shoot 
back  if  it  should  become  long 
enough  If  the  stocks  are  protected 
by  snow  during  winter,  some  of  the 
buds  at  the  base  of  the  shoot  may 
pass  the  cold  in  safety. 

The  next  spring  the  stock  should 
be  cut  off  just  above  the  bud  (Fig* 
66),  in  order  to  throw  the  entire 
force  of  the  plant  into  the  bud.  If 
the  root  is  strong  and  the  soil  good, 
the  bud  will  grow  two  or  three  feet 
the  first  year ;  or  peaches  and 
cherries  will  grow  from  two  to  three 
times  that  height.  All  sprouts 
should  be  kept  rubbed  off  the  stock,  and  the  bud  should  be 
trained  to  a  single  stem.  In  some  weak  and  crooked  growers, 
the  new  shoot  must  be  tied,  and  some  propagators  in  such  cases 
cut  off  the  stock  five  or  six  inches  above  the  bud  and  let  it  serve 
as  a  stake  to  which  to  tie.  The  stock,  of  course,  must  not  be 
allowed  to  grow.  Late  in  the  season  the  stock  is  cut  down  close 
to  the  bud,  as  in  Fig.  66.  Peaches  and  some  other  fruits  are 
sold  after  having  made  one  season's  growth  from  the  bud,  but 
pears,  apples,  and  most  other  trees  are  not  often  sold  until  the 
second  or  third  year. 

"June  budding"  is  a  term  applied  to  the  budding  of  stocks  in 
early  summer  while  they  are  yet  growing  rapidly.  It  is  em- 
ployed mostly  at  the  south  where  the  stocks  can  be  grown  to 
sufficient  size  by  the  last  of  June  or  first  of  July.  Small  stocks 
are  usually  employed — those  ranging  from  one-fourth  to  one- 
third  inch  being  preferred.  A  few  strong  leaves  should  be  left 
on  the  stock  below  the  bud,  and  after  the  bud  has  "stuck"  the 
N.  B  —-6. 


|Fig.  65.    The  bud  tied. 


74 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


i ,'  r 

Fig.  66.    Cutting  off  the  stock. 


whole  top  should  not  be  cut  off  at  once,  else  the  growing  plant 
will  receive  a  too  severe  check.  It  is  best  to  bend  the  top  over 
to  check  its  growth  or  remove  the 
leaves  gradually.  The  bandages 
should  not  be  left  on  longer  than 
six  to  ten  days  if  the  stock  is 
growing  rapidly.  To  prevent  the 
constriction  of  the  stem,  muslin 
bands  are  sometimes  used  instead 
of  bass  or  raffia.  In  hot  and  dry 
climates  the  bud  should  be  set  an 
inch  or  two  higher  in  June  bud- 
ding than  in  the  ordinary  practice, 
to  escape  the  great  heat  of  the 
soil.  June  budding  is  used  upon 
the  peach  more  than  any  other 
tree,  although  it  can  be  employed 
for  any  species  which  will  give 
large  enough  stocks  from  seed  by 
the  June  following  the  sowing  In  peaches,  the  bud  will  pro- 
duce a  shoot  from  three  to  five  feet  high  the  same  season  the 
buds  are  set,  so  that  marketable  budded  trees  can  be  produced  in 
one  season  from  the  seed. 

A  different  kind  of  early  summer  budding  is  sometimes  per- 
formed upon  apples  and  other  fruit-trees.  In  this  case  the 
stocks  are  one  or  two  years  old  from  the  transplanting,  and  dor- 
mant buds  are  used.  These  buds  are  cut  the  previous  fall  or 
winter  in  the  same  manner  as  cions,  and  when  spring  approaches 
they  are  put  on  ice — in  sawdust,  sand  or  moss — and  kept  until 
the  stocks  are  large  enough  to  receive  them.  The  particular  ad- 
vantage of  this  method  is  the  distributing  of  the  labor  of  budd- 
ing over  a  longer  season,  thereby  avoiding  the  rush  which  often 
occurs  at  the  regular  budding  time. 

Budders  usually  carry  a  number  of  "sticks"  with  them  when 
they  enter  the  nursery.  These  may  be  carried  in  the  pocket,  or 
thrust  into  the  boot-leg  ;  or  some  budders  carry  four  or  five  sticks 
in  the  hand.  The  budder  follows  a  row  throughout  its  length, 
passing  over  those  trees  which  are  too  small  to  work.  It  is  a 


GRAFTA  GE. 


75 


Fig.  67.    Budder  at  work. 


common  practice  to  rest  upon  one  knee  while  budding,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  67,  but  some  prefer  to  use  a  low  stool.     The  tying  is 

usually  done  by  a  boy, 
who  should  follow  close 
behind    the    budder   in 
order    that    the    buds 
£  shall  not  dry  out.     An 
expert   budder  will   set 
=  from  i, ooo  to  3,000  buds 
a  day,  in  good  stock,  and 
\  with  a  boy  (or    two  of 
them    for    the    latter 
speed)    to    tie.      Peach 
stocks  are  more  rapidly 

budded  than  most  others,  as  the  bark  is  firm  and  slips  easily,  and 
some  remarkable  records  are  made  by  skillful  workmen. 

Budding  is  sometimes  employed  the  same  as  top-grafting  for 
changing  over  the  top  of  an  old  tree  from  one  variety  to  another. 
The  buds  cannot  be  easily  inserted  in  very  old  and  stiff  bark,  but 
in  all  smooth  and  fresh  bark  they  work  readily.  Sometimes  old 
trees  are  severely  pruned  the  year  before  the  budding  is  to  be 
done,  in  order  to  obtain  young  shoots  in  which  to  set  the  buds. 
In  fruit-trees  six  or  seven  years  old  or  less,  budding  is  fully  as 
advantageous  as  grafting.  New  varieties  are  also  budded  into 
old  branches  in  order  to  hasten  bearing  for  the  purpose  of  test- 
ing the  variety.  Here  budding  has  a  distinct  advantage  over 
grafting,  as  it  uses  fewer  buds,  and  the  wood  of  new  sorts  is 
often  scarce. 

FLUTE-BUDDING. — An  occasional  method  of  budding  is  that 
known  under  the  general  name  of  flute-budding.  In  this 
method  the  bud  is  not  covered  by  the  bark  of  the  stock  as  in 
shield-budding.  Fig.  68  illustrates  it  A  portion  of  bark  is  re- 
moved entirely  from  the  stock,  and  a  similar  piece  is  fitted  into 
its  place.  When  the  wound  extends  only  part  way  about  the 
stem,  as  in  the  illustration,  the  operation  is  sometimes  known  as 
veneer-budding.  When  it  extends  entirely  around  the  stem  it  is 
called  ring  or  annular-budding.  Flute-budding  is  usually  per- 


76  THE  [NURSERY-BOOK. 

formed  late  in  spring.  It  is  best  adapted  to  plants  with  very 
thick  and  heavy  bark.  The  bud  is  tied  and  afterwards  treated 
in  essentially  the  same  manner  as  in  shield- 
budding. 

A  species  of  flute-budding  in  which  a  ring  of 
bark  is  slipped  down  upon  the  tip  of  a  shoot, 
which  has  been  girdled  for  the  purpose,  is 
called  whistle-budding  or  tubular-budding. 

Grafting. — Grafting  is  divided  in  various 
ways,  but  chiefly  with  reference  to  the  position 
of  the  union  upon  the  plant  and  to  the  method  in 
which  the  scion  and  stock  are  joined.  In  ref- 
erence to  position,  there  are  four  general 
classes:  i.  Root-grafting,  in  which  the  stock 
is  entirely  a  root.  2.  Crown-grafting,  which  is 
performed  upon  the  crown  or  collar  of  the 

plant   just   at   the  surface  of    the   ground,   an 
Fig,  68.    Flute-     l 

buddin  operation  which  is  often  confounded  with  root- 

grafting.  3.  Stem-grafting,  in  which  the  cion 
is  set  on  the  trunk  or  body  of  the  tree  below  the  limbs,  a 
method  occasionally  employed  with  young  trees.  4.  Top-graft- 
ing, or  grafting  in  the  branches  of  the  tree.  Any  method  of 
inserting  the  cion  may  be  employed  in  these  classes.  The  best 
classification,  particularly  for  purposes  of  description,  is  that 
which  considers  methods  of  making  the  union.  Some  of  these 
kinds  of  grafting  are  catalogued  on  page  66.  For  our  purposes, 
we  shall  need  to  consider  only  the  whip,  saddle,  splice,  veneer, 
cleft  and  bark-grafting, 

WHIP-GRAFTING. — Whip  or  tongue-grafting  is  employed  only 
on  small  stocks,  usually  upon  those  one  or  two  years  old. 
Both  the  cion  and  stock  are  cut  across  diagonally,  the  cut  surface 
extending  from  one  to  two  inches  according  to  the  size  of  the 
part.  A  vertical  cleft  is  then  made  in  both,  and  the  two  are 
joined  by  shoving  the  tongue  of  the  cion  into  the  cleft  of  the 
stock.  The  operation  can  be  understood  by  reference  to  Figs. 
69,  70  and  71.  Fig.  69  shows  the  end  of  a  cion,  cut  natural 
size.  The  stock  is  cut  in  the  same  manner,  and  the  two  are 


GRAFTAGE. 


77 


joined  in  Figs.  70  and  71.  The  parts  are  held  firmly  by  a 
bandage  passed  five  or  six  times  around  them.  If  the  graft  is  to 
stand  above  ground,  the  wound  must  be  protected  by 
applying  wax  over  the  bandage.  (Recipes  for  wax 
can  be  found  at  the  end  of  this  chapter.) 

Root-grafting,  especially  of  fruit  stocks,  is  performed 
almost  entirely  by  the  whip-graft.  This  operation  is 
performed  in  winter.  The  stocks,  either  one  or  two 
years  old,  are  dug  and  stored  in  the  fall.  In  January 
or  February  the  grafting  is  begun.  In  true  root- 
grafting,  only  pieces  of  roots  are  used,  but  some  pre- 
fer to  use  the  whole  root  and  graft  at  the  crown.  In 
piece-root-grafting,  from  two  to  four  trees  are  made 
from  a  single  root.  A  piece  of  root  from  two  to  four 
inches  long  is  used,  as  shown  in  Fig.  71.  The 
parts  are  usually  held  by  winding  with  waxed 


graft.  string  or  waxed  bands.  The  string  should  be 
strong  enough  to  hold  the  parts  securely  and 
yet  weak  enough  to  be  broken  without  hurting  the 
hands.  No.  18  knitting  cotton  answers  this  purpose 
admirably.  It  should  be  bought  in  balls,  which  are 
allowed  to  stand  for  a  few  minutes  in  melted  wax.  The 
wax  soon  saturates  the  ball.  Waxed  bands  are  made 
by  spreading  melted  wax  over  thin  muslin,  which  is 
cut  into  narrow  strips  when  dry.  The  string  is  the 
more  useful  for  rapid  work.  The  grafts  are  packed 
away  in  sand,  moss  or  sawdust  in  a  cool  cellar  until 
spring,  when  the  two  parts  will  be  firmly  callused  to- 
gether. Some  propagators  are  now  discarding  all  tying 
of  root-grafts.  The  grafts  are  packed  away  snugly,  and 
if  the  storage  cellar  is  cool — not  above  40° — they  will 
knit  together  so  that  they  can  be  planted  without  danger 
of  breaking  apart.  If  the  cellar  is  warm  the  grafts  Fig-  7°. 
will  start  into  growth  and  be  lost.  Whip- 

Cions  are  cut  in  fall  or  winter,  or  any  time  before  the  posjtion 
buds  swell  in  spring.      Only  the  previous  year's  growth 
is  used  in  all  ordinary  cases,  but  in  maples  and  some  other  trees 


78 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


older  wood  may  be  used.  In  the  grafting  of  peaches — which  is 
very  rarely  done — the  best  cions  are  supposed  to  be  those  which 
bear  a  small  portion  of  two-year-old  at  the 
lower  end.  This  portion  of  old  wood  probably 
serves  no  other  purpose  than  a  mechanical  one, 
as  the  recent  wood  is  soft  and  pithy.  It  is  a 
common  opinion  that  cions  are  worthless  if  cut 
during  freezing  weather,  but  this  is  unfounded. 
The  cions  are  stored  in  sand,  moss  or  sawdust 
in  a  cool  cellar,  or  they  may  be  buried  in  a 
sandy  place.  Or  sometimes,  when  a  few  are 
wanted  for  top-grafting,  they  are  thrust  into 
the  ground  beside  the  tree  into  which  they  are 
to  be  set  the  following  spring.  Only  well- 
formed  and  mature  buds  should  be  used.  Some- 
times flower-buds  are  inserted  for  the  purpose 
of  fruiting  a  new  or  rare  variety  the  following 
year. 

In  common  root-grafting  in  the  east  and 
south,  the  cion  bears  about  three  buds,  and  the 
root  is  about  the  same  length,  or  perhaps 
shorter.  The  variable  and  unknown  character 
of  these  roots  as  regards  hardiness,  renders  it 
important  in  very  severe  climates  that  roots 
should  be  obtained  from  the  same  plant  as  the 
cion,  the  hardiness  of  which  is  known.  It  is, 
therefore,  the  practice  in  the  prairie  countries 
to  use  a  very  long  cion — eight  inches  to  a  foot 
— and  to  set  it  in  the  ground  to  the  top  bud.  The 
piece  of  root  serves  as  a  temporary  support,  and 
roots  are  emitted  along  the  cion.  When  the 
tree  is  ready  for  sale  the  old  piece  of  root  is  often  removed ,  or 
sometimes  it  falls  away  of  itself.  In  this  manner  own-rooted 
trees  are  obtained,  and  it  is  for  this  reason  that  root-grafting  is 
more  universally  practiced  west  of  the  Great  Lakes  than  bud- 
ding. Even  cions  of  ordinary  length  often  emit  roots,  as  seen 
in  Fig.  72,  but  the  cions  are  not  long  enough  to  reach  into  uni- 


Fig.  71.    Root- 
graft. 


GRAFTAGE. 


79 


formly    moist    soil.      Some    varieties    of    fruit   trees   are   found 

in  practice  to  root  more  readily  than  others. 

There  is  much  discussion  as 
to  the  relative  merits  of  bud- 
ding and  root-grafting  fruit- 
stocks,  but  the  observations  are 
usually  so  indefinite  or  irrele- 
vant that  safe  conclusions  can- 
not be  drawn  from  them.  We 
have  seen  that  root-grafting 
serves  an  indispensable  pur- 
pose in  the  cold  prairie  regions 
by  enabling  nurserymen  to 
secure  own-rooted  trees  of 
known  hardiness.  Aside  from 
this  it  may  be  said  that  root- 
grafting  is  cheaper  than  bud- 
ding, as  it  is  performed  when 
labor  is  cheap  and  two  or  more 
trees  are  made  from  one  stock. 
">udded  or  crown-grafted  trees 
possess  a  greater  root  and 
isually  make  a  stronger 
growth,  at  least  the  first  year 
or  two,  and  it  has  been  said 
that  their  roots  are  more 
numerous  and  more  symmet- 
rically disposed.  But  there  is 
not  yet  a  sufficient  knowledge 
of  the  subject  in  all  its  details 
to  allow  of  dogmatic  expres- 
sions upon  it. 

S  A  D  D  L  E-GRAFTING. — S  a  d  - 
die-grafting   i  s   a   simple  and 
useful  method  for  the  shoots 
of  small,  growing  plants.    The 
Fig.  72.    Growing  Root-graft.        stock  is  cut  to  a  wedge-shaped 


8o  THE    NURSERY-BOOK. 

end  by  two  cuts,  and  the  cion  is  split  and  set  upon  the  wedge 
(Fig.  73).  The  union  is  then  tied  and  waxed  in  the  same  way  as 
exposed  whip-grafts.  It  is  oftenest  employed  when 
a  terminal  bud  is  used,  as  the  wood  in  such  cions  is 
usually  too  weak  to  work  well  with  a  tongue. 

SPLICE-GRAFTING. — The  simplest  form  of  graft- 
ing is  that  shown  in  Fig.  74,  in  which  the  two  parts 
are  simply  cut  across  diagonally  and  laid  together. 
The  parts  are  held  only  by  the  string,  which,  to- 
gether with  the  wax,  is  applied  in  the  same  way  as 
upon  the  whip-graft.  Splice-grafting  is  frequently 
use'd  upon  soft  or  tender  wood  which  will  not  admit 
of  splitting.  It  is  adapted  only  to  small 
shoots. 

VENEER-GRAFTING. — Fig.  75  shows  a  style 
of  grafting  which  is  much  used,  particularly 
for  ornamentals  and  for  rare  stocks  which 
are  grown  in  pots.  An  incision  is  made 
upon  the  stock  just  through  the  bark  and 

about   an  inch   long    (A,   Fig.   75),   the    bit 
Fig.  73.  Sad-      rill-  j    •,  c 

die    raft  bark   being    removed   by    means    of    a 

downward  sloping  cut  at  its  base.  The 
base  of  the  cion  is  cut  off  obliquely,  and  upon  the  long- 
est side  a  portion  of  bark  is  removed,  corresponding  to 
the  portion  taken  from  the  stock.  The  little  tongue  of 
bark  on  the  stock  covers  the  base  of  the  cion,  when  it  is 
set.  The  cion  is  tied  tightly  to  the  stock  (B,  Fig.  75), 
usually  with  raffia.  This  method  of  grafting  makes  no 
incision  into  the  wood,  and  all  the  wounded  surfaces  arc 
completely  covered  by  the  matching  of  the  cion  and 
stock.  It  is  not  necessary,  therefore,  to  wax  over  the 
wounds,  as  a  rule.  The  parts  grow  together  quickly 
and  uniformly,  making  a  solid  and  perfect  union  as  Fig-  74- 
shown  at  D,  Fig.  75.  So  far  as  the  union  of  the  sPllc< 
parts  is  concerned,  this  is  probably  the  ideal  method  of 
grafting.  This  method,  which  is  nothing  but  the  side-graft  of 
the  English  gardeners  with  the  most  important  condition  of 


GRAFTAGE.\ 


8 1 


the  longer  tongue  on  the  stock,  is  known  by  various  names,  but 
it  is  oftenest  called  veneer-grafting  in  this  country. 

Veneer-grafting  i  s 
employed  mostly  from 
November  to  March 
upon  potted  plants. 
Stocks  which  are 
grown  out-doors  are 
potted  in  the  early  fall 
and  carried  in  a  cool 
house  or  pit.  The  cion 
is  applied  an  inch  or 
two  above  the  surface 
of  the  soil,  and  the 
stock  need  not  be 
headed  back  until  the 
cion  has  united.  (See 
Fig.  76.)  Both  dor- 
mant and  growing 
cions  are  used.  All 
plants  in  full  sap  must 
b  e  placed  under  a 

frame  in  the  house,  in  which  they  can  be  almost  entirely  buried 
with  sphagnum,  not  too  wet,  and  the  house  must  be  kept  cool 
and  rather  moist  until  the  cions  are  well  established.  Some 
species  can  be  transferred  to  the  open  border  or  to  nursery  rows 
in  the  spring,  but  most  plants  which  are  grafted  in  this  way  are 
handled  in  pots  during  the  following  season.  Rhododendrons, 
Japanese  maples  and  many  conifers  are  some  of  the  plants 
which  are  multiplied  by  veneer-grafting.  This  method,  when 
used  with  hardy  or  tender  plants,  gives  a  great  advantage  in 
much  experimental  work,  because  the  stock  is  not  at  all  injured 
by  a  failure  and  can  be  used  over  again  many  times,  perhaps 
even  in  the  same  season  ;  the  manipulation  is  simple  and  easily 
acquired  by  inexperienced  hands. 

CLEFT-GRAFTING. — In    cleft-grafting    the    stock    is    cut    off 
squarely  and  split,  and  into  the  split  a  cion  with  a  wedge-shaped 


B  C 

Veneer-grafting. 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


base  is  inserted.     It  is  particularly  adapted  to  jlarge  stocks  and 
is  the  method  universally  employed  for  top-grafting  old  trees. 

Fig.  77  represents  the 
operation.  The  end  of 
the  stock,  technically 
called  a  "stub,"  is  usu- 
ally large  enough  to  ac- 
commodate two  cions,  one 
upon  either  side.  In  fact, 
it  is  better  to  use  two 
cions,  not  only  because 
they  double  the  chances 
of  success  but  because 
they  hasten  the  healing  of 
the  stub.  Cleft-grafting 
is  at  best  a  harsh  process, 
especially  upon  large 
limbs,  and  its  evils  should 
be  mitigated  as  much  as 
possible.  In  common 
practice,  the  cion  (Fig. 
i/8)  contains  three  buds, 


Fig.  76.    Veneer-graft. 


the  lowest  one  standing 
just  above  the  wedge  por- 
tion. This  lowest  bud  is  usually  entirely  covered  with  wax,  but 
it  pushes  through  without  difficulty.  In  fact,  being  nearest  the 
source  of  food  and  most  protected,  its  chances  of  living  are 
greater  than  those  of  the  higher  buds.  The  sides  of  the  cion 
must  be  cut  smoothly  and  evenly.  A  single  draw  cut  on  each 
side  with  a  sharp  blade  is  much  better  than  two  or  three  partial 
cuts.  A  good  grafter  makes  a  cion  by  three  strokes  of  the  knife, 
one  to  cut  off  the  cion  and  two  to  shape  it.  The  outer  edge  of 
the  wedge  should  be  a  little  thicker  than  the  inner  one  so  that 
the  stock  will  bind  upon  it  and  hold  it  firm  at  the  point  where 
the  union  first  takes  place.  These  cions  are  taken  in  late  fall  or 
winter,  and  kept  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  whip-graft- 
ing on  pages  77  and  78. 


G  RAFT  A  GK. 


The  stock  or  stub  must  be  cut  off  squarely  and  smoothly  with 
a  sharp  and  preferably  fine-toothed  saw.  If  one  desires  to  be 
especially  careful  in  the  operation,  the  • 
end  of  the  stub,  or  at  least  two  opposite 
sides  of  it,  may  be  dressed  off  with  a 
knife  so  that  the  juncture  between  the 
bark  and  the  wood  may  be  more  easily 
seen.  Professional  grafters  rarely  resort 
to  this  practice,  however.  The  stub  is 
then  split  to  the  depth  of  an  inch  and  a 
half  or  two  inches.  Various  styles  of 
"grafting-knife"  are  used  to  split  the 
stub.  The  best  one  is  that  shown  in 
Fig.  79.  It  is  commonly  made  from  an 
old  file  by  a  blacksmith.  The  blade  is 
curved  so  that  the  bark  of  the  stub  is 
drawn  in  when  the  knife  is  entering, 
thereby  lessening  the  danger  of  loosen- 
ing the  bark.  Upon  the  end  of  the 
knife  is  a  wedge,  about  four  or  five 
inches  long,  for  opening  the  cleft.  The 
wedge  is  driven  into  the  cleft  and  allowed 
to  remain  while  the  cions  are  being 
placed.  If  the  cleft  does  not  open  wide 
enough  to  allow  the  cions  to  enter,  the 
operator  bears  down  on  the  handle  of 
the  knife.  The  cions  must  be  thrust  down  to  the  first  bud,  or 
even  deeper,  and  it  is  imperative  that  they  fit  tightly.  The  line 
of  separation  between  the  bark  and  wood  in  the  cion  should  meet 
as  nearly  as  possible  the  similar  line  in  the  stock.  The  cions 
are  usually  set  a  trifle  obliquely,  the  tops  projecting  outwards, 
to  ensure  the  contact  of  the  cambium  layers.  Writers  usually 
state  that  it  is  imperative  to  success  to  have  the  exact  lines 
between  the  bark  and  wood  meet  for  at  least  the  greater  part  of 
their  length,  but  this  is  an  error.  The  callus  or  connecting 
tissue  spreads  beyond  its  former  limits  when  the  wounds  begin  to 
heal.  The  most  essential  points  are  rather  to  be  sure  that  the 


Fig.  77.    Cleft-grafting. 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


cion  fits  tightly  throughout  its  whole  length,  and  to  protect  the 

wound  completely  with  an  air-tight  covering. 

CThe  wounds  must  now  be  covered  with  wax.  Fig. 
80  illustrates  a  stub  after  the  covering  has  been  ap- 
plied. If  the  grafting  is  done  in  early  spring  when 
the  weather  is  cold,  the  wax  will  have  to  be  applied 
with  a  brush.  The  wax  is  melted  in  a  glue-pot,  which 
is  carried  into  the  tree.  But  if  the  weather  is  warm 
enough  to  soften  the  wax,  it  should  be  applied  with 
the  hands.  The  hands  are  first  greased  to  prevent 
the  wax  from  sticking.  The  two  side  or  vertical  por- 
tions are  applied  first.  The  end  of  the  mass  of  wax 
in  the  hand  is  flattened  into  a  thin  portion  about  a 
half  inch  wide.  This  portion  is  then  laid  over  the  bud 
and  held  there  by  the  thumb  of  the  other  hand,  while 
the  wax  is  drawn  downwards  over  the  cleft,  being 
pressed  down  firmly  upon  the  bark  by  the  thumb  of 
the  first  hand.  The  wax  gradually  tails  out  until  it 
breaks  off  just  below  the  lowest  point  of  the  cleft. 
The  flattened  upper  part  is  then  wrapped  around  the 
cion  upon  either  side,  completely  and  tightly  encircling 
it.  A  simple  deft  wrapping  of  the  wax  about  the  cion 
makes  a  tighter  joint  than  can  be  secured  in  twice  the 
time  by  any  method  of  pinching  it  into  place.  Another 
portion  of  wax  is  now  flattened  and  applied  over  the 
Fig-  ?8.  end  of  the  stub.  Many  grafters  apply  a  bit  of  wax  to 

Cleft   graft  the   fc          Q£  the  cion  alsQ       A1j  the  woun(js  mUst  be 
cion. 

covered  securely. 

The  top-grafting  of  large  trees  is  an  important  operation,  and 
there  are  many  men 
who  make  it  a  business. 
These  men  usually 
charge  by  the  stub  and 
warrant,  the  warrant 
meaning  that  one  cion 
of  the  stub  must  be 
alive  when  the  counting  is  done  late  in  summer.  From  two  to 


Fig.  79.     A  cleft  grafting-knife. 


G  RAFTA  GE. 


three  cents  a  stub  is  a  common  price.  A  good  grafter  in  good 
' '  setting  "  can  graft  from  400  to  800  stubs  a  day  and  wax  them 
himself.  Much  depends  upon  the  size  of  the 
trees,  their  shape,  and  the  amount  of  pruning 
which  must  be  done  befere  the  grafter  can  work  in 
them  handily.  Every  man  who  owns  an  orchard 
of  any  extent  should  be  able  to  do  his  own  grafting. 
The  most  important  factor  in  the  top-grafting  of 
an  old  tree  is  the  shaping  of  the  top.  The  old  top 
is  to  be  removed  during  three  or  four  or  five  years 
and  a  new  one  is  to  be  grown  in  its  place.  If  the 
tree  is  old,  the  original  plan  or  shape  of  the  top 
will  have  to  be  followed  in  its  general  outlines. 
The  branches  should  be  grafted,  as  a  rule,  where 
they  do  not  exceed  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter, 
as  cions  do  better  in  such  branches,  the  wounds 
heal  quickly  and  the  injury  to  the  tree  is  less  than 
when  very  large  stubs  are  used.  The  operator 
should  endeavor  to  cut  all  the  leading  stubs  at  ap- 
proximately equal  distances  from  the  center  of 
the  tree.  And  then,  to  prevent  the  occurrence  of 
long  and  pole-like  branches,  various  minor  side- 
branches  should  be  grafted.  These  will  serve  to 
fill  out  the  new  top  and  to  afford  footholds  for 
waxed  stub  Pruners  aQd  pickers.  Fig.  81  is  a  good  illustration 
of  an  old  apple  tree  just  top-grafted.  Many  stubs 
should  be  set,  and  at  least  all  the  prominent  branches  should  be 
grafted  if  the  tree  has  been  well-trained.  It  is  better  to  have 
too  many  stubs  and  to  be  obliged  to  cut  out  some  of  them  in 
after  years,  than  to  have  too  few.  In  thick-topped  trees,  care 
must  be  exercised  not  to  cut  out  so  much  the  first  year  that  the 
inner  branches  will  sunburn.  All  large  branches  which  must 
be  sacrificed  ought  to  be  cut  out  when  the  grafting  is  done,  as 
they  increase  in  diameter  very  rapidly  after  so  much  of  the  top 
is  removed.  One  horizontal  branch  lying  directly  over  or  under 
another  should  not  be  grafted,  for  it  is  the  habit  of  grafts  to 
grow  upright  rather  than  horizontally  in  the  direction  of  the 


86 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


branch.     It  is  well  to  split  all  stubs  on  such  branches  horizon- 
tally, that  one  cion  may  not  stand  directly  under  another. 

Top-grafting  is  performed  in  spring.  The  best  time  is  when 
the  leaves  are  pushing  out,  as  wounds  made  then  heal  quickly 
and  cions  are  most  apt  to  live.  But  when  a  large  amount  of 
grafting  must  be  done,  it  is  necessary  to  begin  a  month  or  even 


Fig.  81.    Top-grafted  old  tree. 

two  before  the  leaves  start.  On  the  other  hand,  the  operation 
can  be  extended  until  a  month  or  more  after  the  leaves  are  full- 
grown,  but  such  late  cions  make  a  short  growth,  which  is  likely  to 
perish  the  following  winter.  Professional  grafters  usually  divide 
their  men  into  three  gangs,  one  to  do  the  cutting  of  the  stubs, 
one  to  set  the  cions,  and  one  to  apply  the  wax.  The  cions  are 
all  whittled  before  the  grafter  enters  the  tree.  They  are  then 


CRAFTA  GE. 


87 


Fig.  82.    Grafting-mallet. 


usually  moistened  by  dipping  into  a  pail  of  water  and  are  carried 
in  a  high  side-pocket  in  the  jacket.  The  handiest  mallet  is  a 
(  \  simple  club  or  billy,  a  foot  and  a  half 

long,  hung  over  the  wrist  by  a  loose 
soft  cord  (Fig  82).  This  is  brought 
into  the  palm  of  the  hand  by  a  swing- 
ing motion  of  the  forearm.  This  mal- 
let is  always  in  place,  never  drops  from 
the  tree,  and  is  not  in  the  way.  The 
knife  shown  in  Fig.  79  is  commonly 
used.  A  downward  stroke  of  the  mal- 
let drives  the  knife  into  the  tree  and  an 
upward  motion  immediately  following 
strikes  the  knife  on  the  outer  end  and 
removes  it.  Another  downward  motion 
drives  in  the  wedge.  The  sharpened 
nails  and  sticks  commonly  pictured  as 
wedges  in  cleft-grafting  are  useless  for  any  serious  work.  And 
the  common  style  of  grafting  knife  sold  by  seedsmen,  compris- 
ing a  thin,  broad  blade  set  in  a  heavy  back  piece,  is  also  worth- 
less. The  blade  is  too  thin  to  split  the  stub.  The  various 
combined  implements  which  have  been  devised  to  facilitate  cleft- 
grafting  are  usually  impracticable  in  serious  operations.  A  very 
good  grafting-knife  for  small  stocks  or  trees  in  nursery  row  is 
shown  in  Fig.  83.  This  is  the  Thomas  knife.  The  larger  arm 
is  made  entirely  of  wood.  At  its  upper  end  is  a  grooved  portion 
into  which  the  blade  closes.  This  blade  can  be  made  from  the 
blade  of  a  steel  case-knife,  and  it  should  be  about  two  and  a 
half  inches  long.  It  is  secured  to  an  iron  handle.  The  essen- 
tial feature  of  this  implement  is  the  draw  cut  which  is  secured 
by  setting  the  blades  and  the  pivot  in  just  the  positions  shown  in 
the  figure.  The  stock  is  cut  off  by  the  shears,  and  the  cleft  is 
then  made  by  turning  the  shears  up  and  making  a  vertical  cut. 
The  cleft  is  therefore  cut  instead  of  split,  insuring  a  tight  fit  of 
the  cions.  This  tool  is  particularly  useful  upon  hard  and 
crooked-grained  stocks. 

Cleft-grafting  is  often  employed  for  other  purposes  than  the 


88 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


top-grafting  of   old  trees.     It   is  in   common   use  on  soft  and 

fleshy  stocks,  as  cactuses,  and  various  fleshy  roots.    Fig.  84  shows 

a  cleft-graft  on  cactus.     The  cion  is  held 

in  place  with  a  pin  or  cactus  spine,  and  it 

is  then  bound  with  raffia  or  other  cord. 

Waxing  is  not  necessary.     Fig.  85  illus- 
trates a  cleft  root-graft  of    peony.      The 

cleft  in  the  thick  root  is  cut  with  a  knife, 

and  the  stock  is  bound  up  securely,  usu- 
ally with  wire,  as  cord,  unless  waxed,  rots 

off  too  quickly.     Wax  is  not  used,  as  the 

graft  is  buried  to  the  top  bud.     The  peony 

is  grafted  in  summer.     Dahlias  are  often 

grafted  after  the  same  fashion,  although 

some  operators  prefer,  in  such  fleshy  sub- 
jects, to  cut  out  a  section  from  the  side  of 

the  stock  to  receive  the  cion,  rather  than 

to   make   a   cleft.     Hollyhocks,  ipomoeas, 

gloxinias    and    other    thick-rooted    plants 

may  be  similarly  treated. 

BARK-GRAFTING. — A    style    of    grafting 

suited  to  large  trees  is  shown  in  Fig.  86. 

The  stock  is  not  cleft,  but   the  cions  are 

pushed  down  between  the  bark  and  wood. 

The  cion  must  be  cut  very  thin  so  that  they  will  not 
break  the  bark  on  the  stock.  Fig.  87  represents  a 
good  style  of  cion.  It  is  cut  to  a  shoulder  upon  either 
side.  Several  cions  can  be  placed  in  a  single  stub, 
and  as  no  splitting  is  necessary,  it  is  a  useful  method 
for  very  large  limbs.  It  is  especially  useful  in  repair- 
ing trees  when  very  large  branches  are  broken  off. 
A  dozen  or  more  cions  may  be  set  about  the  broken 
portion,  after  it  is  dressed  off,  and  a  few  of  them 
Fig.  84.  may  be  allowed  to  remain  after  the  wound  has  been 

Cleft-graft  healed.     Bark-grafting  can  be  performed  to  advantage 
of  cactus.   oniv  wnen  the  bark  peels  readily.     The  cions  should 

be  held  in  place  by  a  tight  bandage,  as  seen  in  Fig.  86,  and  then 


Thomas, 
ing-knife. 


GRAFTA  GE. 


89 


wax  should  be  applied  in  essentially  the  same  manner  as  for 
cleft-grafting.  (See  Fig.  80. )  This  is  sometimes  called  crown- 
grafting,  and  is  useful  under  certain  condi- 
tions. 

A  special  form  of  bark-grafting  is  some- 
times employed  for  covering  girdles  about 
the  base  of  an  old  tree,  made  by  mice, 
gophers  or  rabbits.  The  edges  of  the  bark 
are  trimmed,  and  cions  are  cut  a  couple 
inches  longer  than  the  width  of  the  girdle. 
These  are  sharpened  at  both  ends.  One 
end  is  inserted  under  the  bark  below  the 
girdle  and  tne  other  above  it.  The  cions 
are  placed  close  together  entirely  around 
the  tree.  This  operation  is  said  to  be  neces- 
sary to  keep  up  the  connection  between  the 
root  and  the  top,  but  this  is  in  most  cases 
an  error.  A  good  dressing  of  cow-dung, 
wax  or  clay,  held  on  with  stout  bandages,  is 
much  better  than  the  grafting.  This  method 
of  grafting  is  sometimes,  but  erroneously, 
called  inarching.  A  complete  girdle  made 
during  the  spring  o  r  early  summer  will 
usually  heal  over  readily  if  it  is  well  band- 
aged ;  and  in  some  cases  even  the  bandage 
is  not  necessary. 

HERBACEOUS-GRAFTING. — In  the  preceding  pages,  the  discus 
sions  have  had  to  do  with  cions  which  are  dormant  or  at  least 
well-hardened,  and  with  stocks  which  contain  more  or  less  hard 
woody  substance.  But  herbaceous  shoots  can  be  grafted  with 
ease.  All  such  plants  as  geraniums,  begonias,  coleuses  and 
chrysanthemums  can  be  made  to  bear  two  or  more  varieties 
upon  the  same  individual.  Almost  any  style  of  grafting  can  be 
employed,  but  the  veneer,  cleft  and  saddle-grafts  are  preferred. 
Shoots  should  be  chosen  for  stocks  which  are  rather  firm,  or  in 
the  condition  for  making  good  cuttings.  The  cions  should  be  in 
a  similar  condition,  and  they  may  be  taken  from  the  tips  of 


Fig.  85.    Peony  root- 
graft. 


go  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

branches  or  made  of  a  section  of  a  branch.     The  union  should 

be  bound  snugly  with  raffia,  and  the  plant  set  in  a  propagating 

frame,  where  it  must  be  kept  close  for  a  few  days. 

It  is  not  necessary,  in  most  cases,  to  use  wax,  and 

upon  some   tender   stocks   the   wax    is   injurious. 

Moss  may  be  bound  about  the  graft,  but  unless  the 

union  is  first  thoroughly  covered  by  the  bandage, 

roots  will  start  into  the  moss  and  the  parts  will  fail 

to  unite.     The  growing  shoots  of  shrubs  and  trees 

can  also  be  grafted,   but   the  operation  is  rarely 

employed.     In  various  coniferous  trees  {as  pines 

and  spruces)  the  young  shoots  are  sometimes  clefjt 

or   saddle-grafted  in   May,    the    parts   being   well 

bandaged  with  waxed  muslin  or  raffia,  and  shaded 

with  paper  bags.     The   walnut    and   some   other 

trees  which   do  not  work   readily   are  sometimes 

treated  in  this  manner. 

A  little  known  species  of  herbaceous-grafting  is 
the  joining  of  parts  of  fruits.  It  is  easily  per- 
formed upon  all  fleshy  fruits,  like  tomatoes,  apples, 

squashes  and  cucumbers.     When  the  fruit  is  half 

*  ...       Fig.  86.   Bark- 

or  more  grown,  one-half  is  cut  away  and  a  similar         raftjn 

half  from  another  fruit  is  applied  Better  results 
follow  if  the  severed  side  of  the  parent  or  stock  fruit  is  hol- 
lowed out  a  little,  so  as  to  let  the  foreign  piece  set  into  the 
cavity.  The  edges  of  the  epidermis  of  the  stock  are  then  tied  up 
closely  against  the  cion  by  means  of  bass  or  raffia.  The  two 
parts  are  securely  tied  together,  but  no  wax  is  required.  This 
operation  succeeds  best  under  glass,  where  conditions  are  uni- 
form and  winds  do  not  blow  the  fruits  about. 

Even  leaves  may  be  used  as  stocks  or  cions.  Any  such  suc- 
culent and  permanent  leaves  as  those  of  the  house-leeks,  crassula, 
and  the  like  may  have  young  shoots  worked  upon  them,  and 
leaves  which  are  used  as  cuttings  can  often  be  made  to  grow  on 
other  plants. 

SEED-GRAFTING. — A  novel  kind  of  grafting  has  been  described 
in  France  by  Pieron,  which  consists  in  using  a  seed  as  a  cion. 


GRAFTA  G E. 


01 


This  has  been  used  upon  the  grape.  A  seed  is  dropped  into  a 
gimlet-hole  made  near  the  base  of  the  vine  while  the  sap  is 
flowing  in  the  spring.  The  seed  germinates,  and  after  a 
time  the  plantlet  unites  with  the  stock. 

DOUBLE-GRAFTING. — Grafting  upon  a  grafted  tree  is 
known  as  double-grafting  or  double-working.  It  is  em- 
ployed for  the  purpose  of  growing  a  variety  upon  an 
uncongenial  root  or  of  securing  a  straight  and  vigorous 
stock  for  a  weak  and  poor  grower.  Some  sorts  of  pears 
do  not  unite  well  with  the  quince,  and  if  it  is  desired  to 
secure  dwarfs  of  these  varieties,  some  variety  which 
unites  readily  with  the  quince  must  first  be  put  upon  it. 
The  Angouleme  takes  well  to  the  quince,  and  upon 
Angouleme  dwarfs  the  Seckel  and  some  other  varie- 
ties are  often  worked.  The  last  cion  is  usually  set 
after  the  first  one  has  grown  one  season,  although  both 
may  be  set  at  the  same  time.  Double-grafting  for  the 
purpose  of  securing  a  better  growth  is  often  practiced. 
The  Canada  Red  apple,  for  instance,  is  such  a  poor 
Fig.  87.  grower  that  it  is  often  stem-worked  or  top-worked  upon 
Cion  for  the  Northern  Spy  or  some  other  strong  stock.  The 
bark-  \vmter  Nelis  and  the  Josephine  de  Malines  pears  are 

often  double-worked  for  the  same  reason. 
CUTTING-GRAFTING. — Cuttage  and  graftage  are  combined 
in  various  ways.  Cuttings  of  plants  which  root  with  diffi- 
culty are  sometimes  grafted  upon  those  which  root  easily. 
When  the  plants  are  transplanted,  the  following  autumn  or 
spring,  the  nurse  or  stock  can  be  removed,  the  cion  having  taken 
root.  Root-grafting  with  a  long  cion,  described  on  a  previous 
page  (78),  is  virtually  a  grafting  of  cuttings.  In  other  cases,  union 
with  an  uncongenial  stock  is  facilitated  by  allowing  the  cion  to 
project  downwards  beyond  the  point  of  union  and  to  stand  in 
the  soil  or  moss  or  a  dish  of  water.  Fig.  88  is  a  good  illustration 
of  the  practice.  The  cion  extends  into  the  soil  nearly  as  far  as 
the  root  itself.  After  union  has  taken  place,  the  lower  part  of 
the  cion  is  removed.  This  method  can  be  used  for  some  mag- 
nolias, mulberries,  birches,  and  many  other  plants  of  which 
some  kinds  root  with  more  or  less  difficulty.  Bottle-grafting, 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


described  in  most  of  the  books,  is  essentially  this  method,  modi- 
fied by  letting  the  end  of  the  cion  drop  into  a  bottle  of  water. 
Sometimes  a  portion  of  the  band- 
age is  allowed  to  hang  in  water,  to 
keep  the  cion  fresh  until  the  parts 
join. 

Inarching. — Inarching  or  graft- 
ing by  approach  is  the  process  of 
grafting  contiguous  plants  or 
branches  while  the  parts  are  both 
attached  to  their  own  roots.  *When 
the  parts  are  united,  one  of  them 
is  severed  from  its  root.  Fig.  89 
explains  the  operation.  In  this 
case,  the  larger  plant  is  designed 
for  the  stock.  When  the  smaller 
plant  has  united,  it  is  cut  off  just 
below  the  union  and  it  thenceforth 
grows  upon  the  other  plant. 
Limbs  of  contiguous  trees  are 
sometimes  grafted  in  this  way.  It 
is  the  process  employed  by  nature 
in  what  is  called  natural  grafting, 
arched.  A  thrifty  young  branch  may  be  inarched  into  the 
stem  of  a  fruit  upon  the  same  tree,  thus  supplying  the  fruit 
with  additional  food  and  causing  it  to  grow  larger  than  it  might 
if  undisturbed. 

To  join  the  parts,  it  is  only  necessary  to  remove  the  barks 
between  the  stock  and  cion  and  then  tie  the  two  together  snugly. 
If  out-doors,  the  junction  should  be  waxed  over  ;  and  it  is  then 
necessary,  also,  to  secure  the  branches  in  such  manner  that  the 
wind  cannot  loosen  them.  The  parts  are  sometimes  joined  by  a 
tongue,  after  the  manner  of  a  whip-graft,  but  this  is  rarely  neces- 
sary. Oranges  and  camelias  were  often  propagated  by  inarch- 
ing in  the  old  practice,  but  this  work  is  now  much  more  easily 
done  by  the  veneer-graft. 

Grafting-waxes. — There    are  great   numbers  of   recipes  for 


Fig.  88.    Cutting-grafting. 
Grape-vines  are  often  in- 


GRAFTA  GE. 


93 


waxes  or  mastics  for  protecting  grafts  and  covering  wounds 
upon  trees.  In  this  country  the  resin  and  beeswax  waxes  are 
most  used,  although  some  of  the 
alcoholic  waxes  are  popular  in  some 
regions.  In  Europe,  many  clay  and 
pitch  waxes  are  in  common  use. 
For  most  purposes,  the  wax  No.  i 
in  the  following  list  will  be  found 
one  of  the  best,  especially  for*  ap- 
plying by  the  hand.  In  making  the 
resin  and  beeswax  waxes,  the 
materials  are  first  broken  up  finely 
and  melted  together.  When  thor- 
oughly melted,  the  liquid  is  poured 
into  a  pail  or  tub  of  cold  water.  It 
soon  becomes  hard  enough  to  han- 
dle, and  it  is  then  pulled  and  worked 
over  until  it  becomes  tough  or 
"gets  a  grain,"  at  which  stage  it 
becomes  the  color  of  very  light- 
colored  manilla  paper.  When  wax 
is  applied  by  hand,  the  hands  must 
be  well  greased.  Hard  tallow  is  the  best  material  for  this  pur- 
pose. In  top-grafting  large  trees  it  is  well  to  carry  a  supply  of 
tallow  when  waxing  by  smearing  the  backs  of  the  hands  before 
entering  the  tree. 

i .      Common  Resin  and  Beesivax  Waxes. 

1.  Resin,  4  parts  by  weight  ;  beeswax,  2  parts  ;  tallow,  i  part. 

2.  Resin,  4  Ibs.  ;  beeswax,  i  Ib.  ;  lallow,  i  Ib. 

3.  Resin,  6  Ibs.  ;  beeswax,  2  Ibs.  ;  linseed  oil,  i  pt. 

4.  Resin,  6  Ibs.  ;  beeswax,  i  Ib.  ;  linseed  oil,  i  pt.  ;  apply  hot 
with  a  brush,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick  over  all  the  joints. 

5.  Resin,    4  Ibs.  ;  beeswax,  i  Ib.  ;  and  from   half  to  a  pint 
of  raw  linseed  oil  ;  melt  all  together  gradually,  and  turn  into 
water  and  pull.     The  linseed  oil  should  be  entirely  free  from 
cotton-seed  oil.      For  use  in  warm  weather. 


Fig.  89.     Inarching. 


g4  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

6.  Resin,  6  parts  ;   beeswax,   i   part  ;   tallow,  i   part.      To  be 
used  warm,  in  the  house. 

7.  Resin,  4  or  5  parts  ;  beeswax,  ij^   to  2  parts  ;  linseed  oil, 
i  to  \y2  parts.      For  out-door  work. 

2.      Alcoholic  Waxes. 

8.  Lefort's  Liquid  Grafting  Wax,  or  Alcoholic  Plastic. — Best 
white  resin,  i  Ib.  ;  beef  tallow,  i  oz.  ;  remove  from  the  fire  and 
add'8  ozs.  of  alcohol.     Keep  in  closed  bottles  or  cans. 

9.  Alcoholic  Plastic  with  Beeswax. — Melt  6  parts  white  resin 
with  i  part  beeswax  ;  remove  from  stove  and  partially  cool  by 
stirring,  then  add  gradually — with  continued  stirring — enough 
alcohol  to  make  the  mixture,  when  cool,  of  the  consistency  of 
porridge.      In    the    temperature    of    the    grafting-room    it    will 
remain  sufficiently  plastic  to  permit  applying  to  the  cut  surfaces 
with  the  finger. 

10.  Alcoholic    Plastic    with    Turpentine. — Best    white    resin, 
i  Ib.  ;  beef  tallow,  i  oz.  ;  turpentine,  i  teaspoonful  ;  add  enough 
alcohol  (13  to  15  fluid  ozs.  of  95  per  cent,  alcohol)  to  make  the 
wax  of   the  consistency   of   honey.     Or,   less  alcohol    may   be 
added  if  the  wax  is  to  be  used  with  the  fingers. 

j.      French  and  Pitch    Waxes. 

11.  Common  French. — Pitch,  y2  Ib.  ;  beeswax,  yz  Ib.  ;  cow- 
dung,  i  Ib.     Boil  together,  melt  and  apply  with  a  brush. 

12.  Common  French  Bandage  Wax. — Equal  parts  of    bees- 
wax,  turpentine  and  resin.     While  warm   spread  on  strips  of 
coarse  cotton  or  strong  paper. 

13.  Grafting  Clay. — ^   cow-dung,   free  from  straw,   and   % 
clay,  or  clayey  loam,  with  a  little  hair,  like  that  used  in  plaster, 
to  prevent  its  cracking.     Beat  and  temper  it  for  two  or  three 
days  until  it  is  thoroughly  incorporated.     When  used  it  should 
be  of  such  a  consistency  as  to  be  easily  put  on  and  shaped  with 
the  hands. 

14.  Resin,  2  Ibs.  12  ozs.  ;   Burgundy  pitch,  i  Ib.  n  ozs.      At 
the  same  time,  melt  9  ozs.  of  tallow  ;  pour  the  latter  into  the 
former,  while  both   are  hot,  and  stir  the  mixture  thoroughly. 


GRAFTAGE.  95 

Then  add  18  ozs.  of  red  ochre,  dropping  it  in  gradually  and  stirr- 
ing the  mixture  at  the  same  time. 

15.  Black  pitch,  28  parts;  Burgundy  pitch,  28  parts;  bees- 
wax, 16  parts  ;  grease,  14  parts  ;  yellow  ochre,  14  parts. 

16.  Black  pitch,   28  Ibs.  ;  Burgundy  pitch,   28  Ibs.  ;   yellow 
wax,    16    Ibs.  ;    suet    or    tallow,    14    Ibs.  ;    sifted    ashes,    14   Ibs. 
When  used,  warm  sufficiently  to  make  it  liquid,  without  being  so 
hot  as  to  injure  the  texture  of  the  branches. 

17.  Melt  together  i#  Ib.  of  clear  resin  and  %  Ib.  of  white 
pitch.      At   the  same  time   melt   #    Ib.   of   tallow.      Pour   the 
melted  tallow  into  the  first  mixture,  and  stir  vigorously.     Then 
before  the  stuff  cools  add,  slowly  stirring  meantime,  }4  Ib.  of 
Venetian  red.     This  may  be  used  warm  or  cold. 

4.      Waxed  String  and  Bandage. 

1 8.  Waxed  String  for  Root-grafting. — Into  a  kettle  of  melted 
wax  place  balls  of  No.  18  knitting  cotton'     Turn  the  balls  fre- 
quently, and  in  five  minutes  they  will  be  thoroughly  saturated, 
when  they  are  dried  and  put  away  for  future  use.     This  material 
is  strong  enough,  and  at  the  same  time  breaks  so  easily  as  not  to 
injure  the  hands.     Any  of  the  resin  and  beeswax  waxes  may  be 
used.     When  the  string  is  used,  it  should  be  warm  enough  to 
stick  without  tying. 

19.  Waxed  Cloth. — Old  calico  or  thin   muslin  is  rolled  on 
a  stick  and  placed  in  melted  wax.     When  saturated  it  is  allowed 
to  cool  by  being  unrolled  on  a  bench.     It  is  then  cut  in  strips 
to  suit.     Or  the  wax  may  be  spread  upon  the  cloth  with  a  brush. 

j.      Waxes  for   Wounds. 

20.  Any  of  the  more  adhesive  grafting  waxes  are  excellent  for 
dressing  wounds,  although  most  of    them  cleave  off  after  the 
first  year.     Stiff  and  ochreous  paints  are  also  good. 

2 1 .  Coal-tar. — Apply  a  coating  of  coal-tar  to  the  wound,  which 
has  first  been  pared  and  smoothed.     If  the  wound  contains  a 
hole,  plug  it  with  seasoned  wood. 

22.  Hoskins'  Wax. — Boil   pine  tar  slowly  for  three  or  four 
hours ;    add   y2  Ib.   of   beeswax  to  a  quart  of  -  the  tar.      Have 


96  THE  TfURSERY-BOOK. 

ready  some  dry  and  finely  sifted  clay,  and  when  the  mixture  of 
tar  and  wax  is  partially  cold,  stir  into  the  above  named  quantity 
about  12  ozs.  of  the  clay  ;  continue  the  stirring  until  the  mixture 
is  so  stiff,  and  so  nearly  cool,  that  the  clay  will  not  settle.  This 
is  soft  enough  in  mild  weather  to  be  easily  applied  with  a  knife 
or  spatula. 

23.  Schaefell's   Healing   Paint. — Boil   linseed  oil    (free   from 
cotton-seed  oil)  one  hour,  with  an  oz.  of  litharge  to  each  pt.  of 
oil  ;  then  stir   in   sifted   wood  ashes  until   the  paint   is  of  the 
proper  consistency.      Pare  the  bark   until  smooth.      Paint  the 
wound  over  in  dry  weather,  and  if  the  wound  is  very  large,  cover 
with  a  gunny-sack. 

24.  Tar  for  Bleeding  in  Vines. — Add  to   tar  about   3  or  4 
times  its  weight  of  powdered  slate  or  some  similar  substance. 
Apply  with  an  old  knife  or  flat  stick. 

25.  Hot  Iron  for  Bleeding  in  Vines. — Apply  a  hot  iron  to  the 
bare  surface  until  it  is  charred,  and  then  rub  into  the  charred 
surface  a  paste  made  of  newly-burnt  lime  and  grease. 

26.  Collodion  for  Bleeding  in  Vines. — It  may  be  applied  with 
a  feather  or  small  brush.      In  some  extreme  cases  two  or  three 
coats  will  be  needed,  in  which  case  allow  the  collodion  to  form 
a  film  before  applying  another  coat,     Pharmaceutical  collodion 
is  better  than  photographic. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Aaron's  Beard.     See  Hypericum. 
Aaron's  Rod.     See  Verbascum. 
Abelia.     Caprifoliacece. 

In  spring  by  layers  under  a  frame,  and  in  summer  by 
cuttings. 

Abies  (Fir,  Spruce).      Coniferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  usually  kept  dry  over 
winter  and  sown  in  spring  in  frames  or  in  protected  borders. 
Cones  should  be  fully  matured  before  being  gathered.  If 
they  hold  the  seeds  tightly  they  should  be  placed  in  a  dry 
place,  sometimes  even  in  an  oven,  until  the  scales  spread. 
In  order  to  obtain  stocky  plants,  the  seedlings  should  be 
transplanted  the  following  spring.  The  named  varieties  and 
the  species  which  do  not  produce  sufficient  seed  are  winter- 
worked  upon  seedling  stocks  which  are  potted  from  the  seed- 
beds in  the  fall.  One-year-old  stocks  are  commonly  used, 
but  in  some  cases  the  requisite  size  is  not  reached  until  the 
second  year.  Any  of  the  common  operations  of  grafting 
may  be  employed.  The  conifers  are  not  difficult  to  graft. 
The  European  silver  fir  (Abies  pectinata]  may  be  used  as  a 
stock,  but  the  common  Norway  spruce  is  now  the  most 
popular  stock  for  species  of  both  Abies  and  Picea. 

Abobra.      Cucurbitacea?. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  rarely  by  soft  cuttings. 
Abroma.     Slerculiacea. 

By  seeds  sown  in  March.  By  cuttings  made  in  spring 
from  half-ripened  wood,  and  placed  under  a  bell-glass. 

Abronia  (Sand  Verbena).     Nyctaginacecv. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn  or  spring,  after  the 
outer  skin  has  been  peeled  off.  Sow  in  pots  of  sandy  soil, 

(97) 


98  THE  NURSERY- BOOK. 

and  keep  in  a  frame  until  the  following  spring  ;  then  place  in 
their  flowering  quarters.  By  young  cuttings,  set  in  spring, 
in  sandy  soil. 

Abrus.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  raised  in  heat  or  by  cuttings  under 
a  hand-glass,  in  sand. 

Abuta.     Menispermace<c. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  planted  in  a  pot  of  sand,  with  a 
hand-glass  placed  over  them,  in  heat. 

Abutilon.     Malvacece. 

Sow  seeds  in  pans,  with  same  soil  and  temperature  as  for 
cuttings.  By  cuttings  from  young  wood,  at  almost  any 
season  ;  the  best  time,  however,  is  spring  or  fall.  Insert 
in  pots,  in  a  compost  of  equal  parts  peat,  leaf  mould,  loam 
and  sand,  and  place  in  a  temperature  of  65°  to  75°. 

Acacia.     Leguminosce. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  sandy  peat ; 
about  one-fourth  inch  deep,  or  a  little  more  for  large 
seeds.  Soak  in  hot  water  24  hours  if  seeds  are  not  fresh. 
Keep  temperature  about  55°  or  60°  and  pot  off  when  large 
enough  to  handle.  By  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  wood, 
put  in  with  a  heel,  in  equal  parts  peat  and  sand,  covered 
with  pure  sand.  Insert  the  cuttings  as  soon  as  made  ;  water, 
and  leave  them  in  the  shade  till  dry.  Place  under  a  bell- 
glass,  shade  and  water  to  prevent  flagging.  Pot  off  when 
rooted  and  keep  in  a  close  pit  or  house  until  the  plants  are 
thoroughly  established.  A.  pubescens  and  some  others  strike 
readily  from  root  cuttings. 

Acaena.    Rosace<z. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions,  creeping  rootlets  and 
cuttings. 

Acalypha.     Euphorbiacea. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  sandy  soil  under  a  glass,  in  stove 
heat,  during  late  winter  or  in  spring. 

Acanthephippium.     Orchidece. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  pseudo-bulbs  as  soon  as 
growth  commences.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Acantholimon.     Plantaginetz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  carefully  on  a  warm  but  rather 
shaded  border  ;  by  very  carefully  made  divisions  ;  and  by 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  99 

cuttings  made  in  late  summer  and  placed  in  frames  to  re- 
main during  the  winter. 

Acanthophcenix.     Palmce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  a  moist  bottom  heat,  in 
a  well  decomposed  compost  of  one  part  loam,  one  of  peat, 
one  of  leaf  mould,  and  one  of  sand. 

Acanthorhiza.     Palmte. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  a  moist  hot-bed  in  spring. 
Acanthostachyum.    Bromeliacecc, 

Propagated  by  suckers,  which  strike  readily  in  bottom 
heat. 

Acanthus  (Bear's  Breech).     Acanthacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  gentle  heat,  or  by  division  of 
the  root  in  autumn  or  early  spring.  Also  by  root-cuttings. 
Water  carefully. 

Acer  (Maple).      Sapindacea. 

Stocks  are  grown  from  stratified  seeds,  which  should  be 
sown  an  inch  or  two  deep.  Some  species,  as  A.  dasycarpum, 
come  readily  if  seeds  are  simply  sown  as  soon  as  ripe. 
Varieties  are  often  layered,  but  better  plants  are  obtained  by 
grafting.  Th'e  Japanese  sorts  are  winter-worked  on  imported 
A.  polymorphism  stocks,  either  by  whip  or  veneer  grafting. 
Varieties  of  native  species  are  worked  upon  common  native 
stocks.  Maples  can  also  be  budded  in  summer,  and  they 
grow  from  cuttings  of  soft  and  ripe  wood. 

Aceras.     Ore/tide^. 

Propagated  by  carefully  made  divisions  of  the  tubers. 
(See  under  Orchids.) 

Aceratium.     Tiliacea:. 

Propagated  by  ripe  cuttings,  which  root  readily  in  sand, 
in  heat,  under  a  hand-glass. 

Achania.     See  Malvaviscus. 

Achillea.     Including  Ptarmica  (Milfoil),  Composite. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  root  divisions  and  cuttings,  during 
spring. 

Achimenes,  including  Scheeria.      Gesneracece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  carefully  sown  in  well-drained  pans, 
which  are  filled  nearly  to  the  rim,  levelled,  and  well  watered 
with  a  fine  rose.  Sow  seed  and  cover  lightly  with  sand,  and 


ioo  THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 

place  in  shady  position.  Keep  moist  and  apply  water  very 
lightly.  Place  a  sheet  of  glass  over  the  seed-pan.  After 
large  enough  to  be  pricked  off,  treat  like  rooted  cuttings. 
The  best  time  for  all  modes  of  grafting  is  early  spring  By 
scales  from  the  corms,  carefully  rubbed  off  and  sown  like 
seeds,  in  pots  or  pans  of  the  same  compost,  barely  covered 
with  sand,  and  placed  in  bottom  heat.  By  leaves,  severed 
from  the  stems,  and  pricked  into  pots  of  similar  soil  to  the 
cuttings,  placing  all  the  petiole  below  the  surface,  and  placed 
in  bottom  heat.  By  cuttings  from  any  portion  of  the  stem  ; 
insert  in  a  soil  of  equal  parts  of  peat  and  sand,  in  well- 
drained  pots,  and  place  in  bottom  heat. 

Achras.     See  Sapota. 
Achyranthes.     See  Iresine. 
Achyronia.     See  Priestleya. 
Aciphylla.      Umbellifera. 

Propagated  in  spring  by  seeds  or  divisions. 
Acis.     See  Leucoium. 
Acisanthera.     Melastomacea? . 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  root  freely  in  a  mixture  of 
loam,  sand  and  peat,  in  stove  temperature. 

Acmadenia.     Rutaceoe. 

Increased  by  cuttings  pricked  in  a  pot  of  very  sandy  soil, 
covered  with  a  bell-glass. 

Acmena.     Myrtacece. 

Propagated  by  placing  half-ripened  cuttings  in  sand  under 
a  glass  without  heat. 

Aconitum(  Aconite,  Monk's  Hood,  Wolf's  Bane).   Ranunculace(t> 
Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  cold-frame  or 
border;  also  by  division.     Roots  should  not  be  left  about, 
for  they  are  very  poisonous. 

Acontias.     See  Xanthosoma. 
Acorns.     See  Quercus. 
Acorus.     Aroidece. 

Propagated  during  spring  by  divisions. 
Acradenia.     Rtitace<e. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings  under  a  bell-glass. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  ioi 

Acridocarpus.     Malpighiacece. 

Propagated  by  imported  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  in  bottom 
heat. 

Acrocomia.     Palme  ce. 

Propagated  by  suckers. 
Acronychia.     Rutacea:. 

Propagated  in  July  by  cuttings  inserted  in  sand,  under  a 
bell-glass. 

Acrophyllum.     Cunoniacea. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  shoots  which 
strike  freely  in  a  soil  of  sand  and  peat  ;  cover  with  a  hand- 
glass, and  place  in  a  cool  house.  The  roots  should  be  kept 
moist. 

Acrostichum.  See  Ferns. 
Acrotriche.  Epacridacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  made  of  young  shoots,  pricked  in 

sand,  covered  with  a  bell-glass,  and  placed  in  a  cool  house  ; 

afterwards  treated  like  Epacris. 

Actsea  (Baneberry).     Ranunculacecc. 

Propagated  by  seed  and  by  division  of  root  during  spring. 
Actinella,  Picradenin.      Composite. 

Propagated  in  spring  by  divisions. 
Actinidia.      Ternstrcennacetc. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers  or  cuttings.  ^Th^euttJn^s 
should  be  put  in  sandy  soil,  in  autumn,  under  a1  hand-light. 

Actinocarpus.     AHsmacecc. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions  during  spring.5"  " 
Actiiiomeris,  Pterophyton.     Composite. 

Increased  in  spring,  by  seeds  and  division.  Use  a  warm 
border,  with  or  without  hand-lights,  or  a  cold  frame. 

Actinophyllum.     See  Sciadophyllum. 

Actinotus.      Umbellifera. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  on  a  hotbed  in  spring,  and  in 
May  the  seedlings  may  be  transplanted  to  the  open  border  in 
a  warm  situation,  where  they  will  flower  and  seed  freely. 
Divisions  of  the  roots  grow  readily. 

Acyntha.     See  Sanseviera. 


102  THE  NURSERY-HOOK. 

Ada.      Or  chides. 

Propagated  by  divisions  as  soon  as  the  plant  commences 
growth.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Adamia.     Saxifrages. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  by  cuttings,  which  will  root  readily  in 
a  compost  of  loam,  peat  and  sand,  under  a  hand-glass. 

Adamsia.     See  Puschkinia. 
Adam's  Needle.     See  Yucca. 
Adenandra.     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  made  from  the  young  tops,  before 

they  begin  to  throw  out  their  buds,  planted  in  a  pot  of  sand, 

with  a  bell-glass  or  frame  placed  over  them. 

Adenanthera.    Leguminosa. 

Increased  by  cuttings  taken  off  with  a  heel  and  planted  in  a 
pot  of  sand  in  heat,  placing  a  bell-glass  over  them. 

Adenanthos.     Proteacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  in  spring,  placed  in  sandy  soil, 
under  a  bell-glass,  with  gentle  bottom  heat. 

Adenilenia.     See  Neillia.  . 
Adenium.     Apocynacece. 

Increased  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  which  strike  root  well 
in  sand,  under  a  hand-glass. 

Ajdenocalymna.     Bignoniacece. 

'    Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand,  under  a 
.bell-glass,-  with  bottom  heat. 

1  lAxlenooafpus . «    Leguminosce. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  March,  the  hardy  species  out-doors, 
and  the  others  in  a  cold  house.  Young  cuttings  root  freely 
in  sand,  covered  with  a  hand-glass. 

Adenophora.     Campanulacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  pots  placed 
in  cold  frames.  Also  by  suckers. 

Adenostoma.     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots,  placed  in 
sand,  under  glass,  in  spring  or  autumn. 

Adenotrichia.     See  Senecio. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  103 

Adesmia.     Legmninoscc. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  should  be  placed  in  sand,  covered  by  a 
hand-glass,  in  a  gentle  heat. 

Adhatoda.     See  Justicia. 
Adiantum.     See  Ferns. 
Adike.     See  Pilea. 
Adina.     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  placed  in  rich,  loamy  soil,  under  a 
hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Adlumia  (Mountain  Fringe).     Funiariacecc. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  The  plant  is  a  biennial,  blooming 
the  second  season  only. 

Adonis.     Ranunctilacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  The  perennials  may  be  divided  at 
the  root. 

^Egiphila.      Verbenacea. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand,  under  a 
glass,  with  bottom  heat. 

JEgle  (Bengal  Quince).     Riitacece. 

Propagated  by  ripe  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand  under 
a  hand-glass,  in  heat,  if  not  deprived  of  any  of  their  leaves. 

^olanthus.    Labintce. 
Increased  by  seeds. 

ionium.     See  Sempervivum. 

brides.     Orchidece. 

The  only  method  of  propagating  iliis  genus  is  by  re- 
moving the  upper  portion  and  planting  it  separately.  It 
should  always  be  severed  low  enough  to  include  a  few  roots, 
otherwise  a  large  proportion  of  leaves  will  be  lost.  A  some- 
what dense  shade,  a  moist  atmosphere  and  careful  watering 
are  essential  until  the  young  plant  is  established.  The  old 
stool  will  soon  send  out  lateral  growths,  which,  in  time, 
may  be  separated  and  treated  similarly.  Vanda,  Saccola- 
bium,  Angraecum,  Renanthera  are  increased  in  the  same 
way.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

^schynanthus.     Gesneracece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  very  unsatisfactory.  By 
cuttings,  which  root  freely  in  a  well-drained  pot,  filled  with 


104  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

a  light  compost,  and  having  a  surface  of  pure  white  sand, 
about  one  inch  deep,  during  spring.  The  best  are  obtained 
from  half-ripened  wood,  cut  into  two  or  three  inch  lengths, 
and  all  leaves,  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two  at  the  top, 
removed.  Cover  the  cuttings  with  a  bell-glass,  and  place  in 
moderate  bottom  heat.  When  rooted,  transfer  singly  to 
small  pots,  place  under  hand-glasses,  until  thoroughly  estab- 
lished, then  gradually  harden  off. 

-ffischynomene.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  seeds,  those  of  the  herbaceous  species  requir- 
ing a  good  heat  to  start  them  into  growth.  By  cuttings, 
placed  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  brisk  heat. 

.ffisculus  (Horse  Chestnut,  Buckeye).      Sapindacece. 

Propagated  by  stratified  seeds  sown  in  single  rows  in  spring, 
and  by  layers  made  in  the  spring  or  fall;  or  by  grafting  or 
budding  on  the  common  horse  chestnut  or  native  buckeyes, 
usually  under  glass. 

JEthionema.     Crudferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  May,  and  by  cuttings  planted 
in  summer. 

Agalmyla.      Gesneracece. 

Propagated  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  in  heat  under  glass. 
Aganisia.  Orchidece. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  pseudo-bulbs  just  before  start- 
ing into  new  growth.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Aganosma.     Apocynaceiz. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  sand,  under  glass,  with  bottom 
heat. 

Agapanthus  (African  Lily).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  offsets,  or  by  divisions  of  the  old  plants  in 
early  spring. 

Agapetes.     Vaccinia  cece. 

Increased  by  young  hardened  cuttings,  in  sandy  soil,  under 
a  hand-glass,  in  high  temperature. 

Agaricus.     See  Mushroom. 
Agastachys.     Proteacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripened  wood,  in  sandy  soil 
under  a  glass,  in  a  cool  house. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  105 

Agathsea.     Composite?. 

Seeds  and  layers.  Young  cuttings  root  freely,  in  a  gentle 
heat,  at  all  times. 

Agathomeris.     See  Humea. 

Agathosma  (Bucco,  Dichosma).     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which,  when  young,  root  freely  in 
a  pot  of  sand,  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  cool  house.  They 
require  to  be  shaded  somewhat  in  the  summer. 

Agathotes.     See  Swertia. 
Agati.     LeguminoscE. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  a  pot  of  sand 
with  a  hand-glass  over  them,  placed  in  heat. 

Agave.     Amaryllidece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  to  secure  the  production  of  which  the 
flowers  should  be  pollinated.  Usually  by  suckers  which 
spring  naturally  from  the  old  plant. 

Ageratum,  Caelestina.     Composite 

Sow  the  seeds  in  January,  in  heat,  in  sandy  soil  When 
large  enough,  prick  them  off  into  thumb  pots,  and  keep  in 
heat  till  they  grow  freely,  then  place  them  in  a  cooler  house. 
Cuttings  are  commonly  used  for  propagation. 

Aglaia.     Meliacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  ripened  at  the  base,  and  taken  off 
at  a  joint.  They  will  root  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass  in 
heat. 

Agrimonia.     Rosace  a? . 

Propagated  by  root-division. 
Agrostemma  (Rose  Campion).      Caryophyllece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 
Agrostis  (Bent  Grass).      Graminecc. 

Increased  easily  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  in  the  open 
border. 

Ailantus  (Tree  of  Heaven).     Xanthoxylacece. 

Propagated  by  suckers  ;  and  by  pieces  of  the  roots  and 
planted  in  a  pot  with  their  points  above  the  ground,  and 
placed  in  a  hot-bed.  Also  by  stem  cuttings.  Seeds  are  used 
when  large  quantities  are  desired. 


106  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Ainslaea.     Composite. 

Propagated  by  divisions  of  the  root. 

Aitonia.     Meliaceoe. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  must  not  be  put  in  very  close 
together  ;  they  will  root  in  sand,  under  a  bell-glass,  with  bot- 
tom heat. 

Aizoon.     Portulacacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings. 
Ajax.     See  Narcissus. 
Ajuga  (Bugle).      Labiatce. 

Perennials  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  border, 
during  spring  or  autumn ;  by  divisions.  Annuals  by  seeds. 

Akebia,  Rajania.     Berberidece. 

Seeds.  Layers  of  young  or  ripe  wood.  Dormant  cuttings 
in  bottom  heat,  and  under  glass  in  summer. 

Alangium.     Alangiacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  root  readily  if  planted  in  a 
pot  of  sand,  with  a  hand-glass  over  them,  in  heat. 

Albuca.     Liliacetz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  offsets  (bulbels)  from  the  old 
bulb. 

Alcanna.     See  Lawsonia. 

Alchemilla  (Lady's  Mantle).     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  divisions  of  the  root. 

Aldea.  See  Phacelia. 
Aletris.  See  Tritonia 
Aleurites.  Euphorbia cece. 

Propagated  by  ripe  cuttings  in  sand,  under  a  hand-glass. 
Do  not  remove  leaves. 

Alexandrian  Laurel.     See  Ruscus. 
Algaroba  Bean.     See  Ceratonia. 
Alhagi  (Manna  Tree).     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  hot-bed  ;  and  by  cuttings 
rooted  in  sand,  with  a  bell-glass  over  them,  in  heat. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  107 

Alibertia.      Cinchonacece . 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  root  freely  in  a  mixture  of 
loam  and  peat,  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Alisma,  Actinocarpus  (Water  Plantain).     Alismacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  a  pot  im- 
mersed in  water  and  filled  with  loam,  peat  and  sand  ;  also  by 
divisions,  which  root  well  in  a  moist  loamy  soil. 

Allamanda.     Apocynacece. 

Layers.  Root  cuttings  will  root  well  at  any  time  of  the 
year  in  a  bottom  heat  from  70°  to  80.  °  The  usual  time  is, 
however,  in  spring,  when  the  old  plants  are  pruned  back. 
Choose  the  tops  of  the  shoots,  retaining  two  or  three  joints 
to  each  cutting.  Place  in  a  compost  of  sand,  and  peat  or 
leaf  mould  in  equal  proportions,  singly,  in  pots,  and  plunge 
the  pots  in  the  propagating  bed. 

Allium,  including  Porrum,  Schoenoprasum.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  thinly  in  light  soil  in  early  spring. 
By  bulbels,  planting  them  in  autumn  or  spring  one  to  four 
inches  deep.  (See  Onion.) 

Allosorus.     See  Ferns. 
Almeidea.    Rutacece. 

Increased  by  partly  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  root  in 
sand,  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Almond  (Prunus  communis}.     Rosacece. 

The  almond  is  worked  the  same  as  the  peach  and  apricot. 
Seedling  almond  stocks  are  best,  but  the  peach  is  often 
used.  Apricot  stocks  are  sometimes  employed,  but  they  are 
not  to  be  recommended. 

Alnus  (Alder  Tree).     Cupuliferce. 

Propagated  usually  by  seeds,  which  are  gathered  in  the  fall 
and  well  dried.  Then  they  are  sprinkled  lightly  on  the 
ground  and  covered  very  thinly.  Towards  the  end  of  the 
year  the  seedlings  are  planted  in  rows  one  and  one-half  feet 
apart,  and  six  inches  from  each  other,  where  they  may 
remain  for  two  years,  after  which  they  can  be  placed  where 
they  are  intended  to  stand.  Planting  is  best  done  in  October 
or  April.  They  are  also  increased,  but  rarely,  by  suckers, 
by  cuttings  and  by  grafting. 

Alocasia.     Aroidece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions. 


108  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Aloe.     Liliacece. 

Commonly  propagated  by  suckers  which  spring  from  the 
base  of  the  plant.  Seeds  are  sometimes  employed. 

Alomia.     Composite?. 

Propagated  by  cuttings. 
Alona.     Nolanacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  root  freely  in  sandy  loam, 
with  a  very  gentle  bottom  heat. 

Alonsoa.     Scrophularinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring ;  also  by  cuttings 
in  sandy  soil,  in  gentle  heat.  The  herbaceous  species  may 
be  treated  as  out-door  summer  annuals,  and  should  be  raised 
in  little  heat,  and  planted  out  in  May. 

Aloysia  (Sweet-scented  Verbena,  Lemon  Verbena).    Verbenacece. 
Increased  easily  in  spring  by  young   wood.     They   will 
root  in  about  three  weeks,  in  sandy  soil  with  gentle  heat. 
Also  by  cuttings  of  ripened  wood  in  autumn. 

Alpinia.     Zingiberticece. 

Increased  by  division  after  the  young  shoots  have  made  an 
inch  of  growth  in  spring. 

Alsodeia.      Violariece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  root  readily  under  a  bell- 
glass,  if  planted  in  sand,  in  heat. 

Alsophila.     See  Ferns. 
Alstonia.     Apocynacece, 

Propagated  by  cuttings  rooted  in  sand,  in  heat. 
Alstroemeria.     Amaryllidece. 

Increased  by  seeds.  By  a  careful  division  of  the  fleshy 
roots,  during  fall  or  spring. 

Alternanthera.     Amarantacece. 

Commonly  raised  from  cuttings  of  growing  wood.  For 
spring  and  summer  bedding,  the  plants  are  started  in  late 
winter.  The  stock  plants,  from  which  cuttings  are  taken, 
are  procured  from  cuttings  made  late  in  summer.  Seeds  are 
little  used. 

Althaea  (Marsh-Mallow,  Hollyhock).     Malvaceae. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  divisions.  The  biennial  species 
must  be  raised  from  seeds  every  year. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


109 


Alum  Root.     See  Heuchera. 

Alyssum,   including    Psilonema,    Ptilotrichum,    Schivereckia 

(Madwort).      Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seed  sown  in  the  open  border  or  in  pans  of 
sandy  soil.  By  divisions.  By  layers.  By  cuttings  made 
from  young  shoots  two  to  three  inches  in  length,  placed  in 
sandy  loam,  early  in  the  season,  in  a  shady  place. 

Amaranthus.     Amarantacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  hot-beds  in  spring,  and  thinned 
out  when  about  one-half  inch  high.  About  the  end  of  May, 
they  can  be  transplanted  out-doors  in  their  permanent  situa- 
tion, or  into  pots. 

Amaryllis.     Amaryllidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  offsets.  Seedlings  will  bloom  in 
from  one  to  two  years. 

Amber  Tree.     See  Anthospermum. 
Amblyanthera.     See  Mandevilla. 
Ambrosinia.     Aroidece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  a  cool  house  : 
and  by  divisions  made  just  previous  to  new  growth  in  spring. 

Amelanchier.     Rosacece. 

Seeds.  Layers  and  cuttings  in  autumn.  By  grafting,  in 
early  spring,  on  the  Mountain  Ash,  Hawthorn  or  the  Quince, 
or  the  weaker  on  the  stronger-growing  species.  See  June- 
berry. 

Amellus.     Compositce. 

Increased  by  divisions ;  or  by  cuttings  under  glass  in 
spring. 

Amherstia.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened 
wood  inserted  in  sand  under  a  glass,  in  bottom  heat  of 
about  80.  ° 

Amianthemum.     See  Zygadenus. 
Amicia.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand  under  a 
hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Ammodendron.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  layers. 


no  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Ammyrsine.     See  Leiophyllum. 

Amomophyllum.     Spathiphyllum. 

Amorpha  (Bastard  Indigo).     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  usually.  Layers  or  cuttings,  taken  off 
at  the  joint,  strike  readily  if  placed  in  a  sheltered  situation 
early  in  autumn.  They  should  remain  undisturbed  till  the 
following  autumn. 

Amorphophallus.     Aroidece. 

Propagated  by  offsets,  or  cormels,  and  by  seeds,  which, 
ho>vever,  are  usually  sparingly  produced  in  cultivation. 

Ampelopsis,  Quinaria.     Ampelidece. 

Increased  by  seeds, especially  the  one  known  as  A.  Veitchii. 
Layers  or  cuttings  made  in  spring  from  the  young  soft  wood, 
root  freely  in  gentle  heat.  By  cuttings  having  a  good  eye,  if 
taken  in  September  and  pricked  under  hand-lights  in  sandy 
soil  on  the  open  border,  or  in  pots.  Hard  wood  cuttings  are 
commonly  employed  in  this  conntry  for  A.  quinquefolia. 

Amphicarpaea.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  the  open 
border,  in  spring,  in  a  sunny  place. 

Amphicome.     Bignoniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  early  spring,  in  pots  of  sandy 
soil  placed  in  a  greenhouse.  By  young  shoots  inserted  in 
sandy  soil  in  gentle  heat  in  spring. 

Amphilophium,  Amphilobium.     Bignoniacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  from  young  shoots,  which  root 
readily  in  sand,  under  a  hand-glass,  with  bottom  heat,  during 
the  spring  months. 

Amsonia.     Apocynacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  by  divisions  of  the  roots  in  spring ; 
or  by  cuttings  during  the  summer  months. 

Amygdalus.     See  Prunus. 
Amyris.     Burseracece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  root  readily  in  sand,  under  a 
hand-glass  with  bottom  heat,  during  the  spring  months. 

Anacampseros.     Portulacaceae. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  by  cuttings  and  leaves,  taken  off  close 
to  the  plant.  These  should  be  laid  to  dry  a  few  days  before 
planting. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  Hi 

Anacardium  (Cashew).     Anacardiacece. 

Ripened  cuttings,  with  their  leaves  left  on,  root  freely  in 
sand  nnder  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Anagallis  (Pimpernel).     Primulacece. 

The  annuals,  by  seeds  sown  in  a  warm  place  in  spring  ; 
the  perennials,  by  cuttings  from  young  shoots,  or  by  divis- 
ion, at  any  time,  either  under  a  hand-glass  or  in  a  closed 
frame.  Keep  in  the  shade,  and  when  thoroughly  established 
harden  off  gradually. 

Anagyris.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  planted  in  July  in 
a  pot  of  sand,  and  placed  under  a  hand-glass. 

Anamenia.     See  Knowltonia. 
Ananas.     See  Pine  Apple. 
Anantherix.     Asclepiadece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  ripen  in  abundance,  or  by  divis- 
ion of  the  root. 

Anarrhinum.     Scrophularinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  outside  in  the  spring,  or  by 
growing  cutting,  but  they  require  protection  during  severe 
winters. 

Anastatica.     Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  the  spring  in  heat,  and  the 
plants  afterwards  potted  off  and  plunged  again  in  heat  to 
hasten  their  growth 
Anchietea,  Lucinaea,  Noisettia.      Violariece. 

Propagated  by  young  cuttings,  which  root  freely  in  sand, 
under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  moderate  heat. 

Anchomanes.     Aroidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  offsets. 
Anchusa.     Boraginece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  early  spring 
in  pots  of  sandy  soil ;  they  will  germinate  in  three  or  four 
weeks.  Also  by  divisions,  rarely  by  cuttings. 

Andersonia.     Epacridea*. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  from  tips  of  young  shoots.  These 
should  be  made  in  autumn,  winter  or  spring,  and  planted 
in  sand  in  a  gentle  heat,  with  a  bell-glass  over  them. 

Andreusia.     See  Myoporum. 


112  THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 

Androcymbium.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  offsets. 

Andromeda.     Ericaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  thinly  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  pots 
or  pans,  in  sandy  peat  soil.  Place  in  a  cool  frame  or  green- 
house giving  plenty  of  air.  The  young  plants  should  be 
planted  out  in  spring,  if  large  enough,  or  pricked  into  boxes 
if  small.  By  layers  which,  if  carefully  pegged  down  during 
September,  will  take  twelve  months  to  make  sufficient  roots 
to  allow  of  their  being  separated  ;  layerage  is  a  common 
method. 

Andropogon.     Graminece. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  by  division  of  the  roots. 
Androsace,  including  Aretia.     Primulacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible, and  raised  in  a  frame  ;  also  by  divisions  and  cuttings. 

Androssemum.     See  Hypericum. 
Androstephium.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  offsets.  The  seeds  should  be 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  cold  frame. 

Andryala.     Composite . 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions  in  spring. 
Aneilema.     Commelinacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  root  divisions. 
Anemia.     See  Ferns. 
Anemone  (Wind  Flower).     Ranunculacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  root  divisions,  or  root  cuttings  in 
autumn  or  early  spring  ;  the  seeds  are  better  sown  as  soon 
as  ripe  in  pans,  in  a  cold  frame. 

Anemonopsis.     Ranunciilar.ece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  divisions  of  the  root  stock  in 
spring. 
Angelica.      Unibelliferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  September 
or  March  in  ordinary  soil. 

Angelonia,  Schelveria.     Scrophularinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  which  should  be  planted  in  spring  in 
hot-beds,  and  transplanted  in  the  open  in  May.  By  cut- 
tings of  the  young  shoots  in  spring.  These  root  readily 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  113 

under  a  hand-glass,  or  in  a  propagating  bed  if  given  plenty 
of  air  daily. 

Angophora.     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  a  few 
weeks  in  sandy  soil  under  a  hand-glass,  in  a  cool  house. 

Angraecum.     See  brides. 
Auguloa.      Orchidece. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  pseudo-bulbs,  just  before  they 
commence  to  grow.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Anigozanthus,  Schwaegrichenia.     Hcemodoracece. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  in  spring. 
Anisanthus.     See  Antholyza. 
Anise.     Umbelliferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  ordinary  soil,  on  a  warm  sunny 
border  in  May. 

Anisochilus.     Labiatce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  February,  in  heat ;  or  by  cut- 
tings,  which  will  root  in  sandy  soil  under  a  bell-glass,  in 
heat 
Anisomeles.     Labiatce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  spring,  in 
heat.  By  cuttings  made  in  spring  and  inserted  in  heat, 
under  a  bell-glass. 

Anisopetalum.     See  Bulbophyllum. 

Ancectochilus.     Orchidece. 

Propagated  by  cutting  off  the  growing  top  just  below  the 
last  new  root,  dividing  the  remainder  of  the  stem  into  lengths 
of  two  or  three  joints.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Anoma.     See  Moringa. 
Anomatheca.    Iridece. 

Increased  sometimes  by  seeds  sown  very  thinly  in  seed 

pans  as  soon  as  ripe.     Also  multiply  very  rapidly  by  cutting 

up  the  masses  once  a  year.     Offsets. 

Anona  (Custard  Apple).     Anonacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  pots,  and 
plunged  into  a  hot-bed.  By  ripened  cuttings,  which  will 
root  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  in  a  moist  heat. 

Anoplophytum.     See  Tillandsia. 


114  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Anopterus.     Saxifragece. 

Propagated  by  half-ripened   cuttings,   which  root  freely 
under  a  bell-glass  in  a  cool  house  or  frame  in  summer. 
Ansellia.     Orchidece. 

Increased  by  divisions  of  the  bulbs  just  after  flowering. 
(See  under  Orchids.) 
Antennaria.     Compositce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  in  a  cold  frame,  and 
by  divisions  of  the  roots  in  spring. 
Anthemis  (Camomile).     Compositce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions. 
Anthericum,  Phalangium.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  as  early  as  possible  after  they 
are  ripe,  in  a  cold  frame  ;  by  division  of  the  roots. 
Anthocercis.     Solanacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  strike  freely  in  sand  under  a 
bell-glass,  with  a  mild  bottom  heat. 
Antholoma.     Tiliacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  ripened  wood,  which  will 
strike  root  in  sand,  under  a  hand-glass. 

Antholyza,  Petamenes,  including  Anisanthus.     Iridece. 

Increased  by  seeds  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe, 
in  light  soil,  in  a  cool  house.  Here  they  will  germinate  the 
following  spring,  and  will  be  fit  to  plant  out  in  the  summer 
of  the  same  year.  Also  by  offsets. 

Anthospermum  (Amber  Tree).     Rubiacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  inserted  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass. 

Anthurium.     Aroidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  shallow  well- 
drained  pans  or  pots  filled  with  a  compost  of  peat,  loam, 
moss,  broken  crocks  or  charcoal  and  clean  sand.  Cover 
lightly  and  place  in  a  close,  moist  propagating  case,  where  a 
temperature  of  75°  to  85°  is  maintained  ;  or  the  pots  may  be 
covered  with  bell-glasses.  Keep  the  soil  in  a  uniformly  moist 
condition.  Also  increased  by  divisions,  which  should  be 
made  in  January. 

Anthyllis  (Kidney  Vetch).     Leguminosce. 

Herbaceous  perennials  increased  by  seeds'  or  cuttings. 
The  cuttings  of  most  species  will  root  in  a  pot  of  sandy  soil, 
with  a  bell-glass  over  them,  in  a  cool  house  or  frame.  Seed 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  115 

of  the  annuals  should  be  sown  in  a  warm  dry  place  in  the 
open  ground. 

Anticlea.     See  Zygadenus. 
Antirrhinum  (Snapdragon).      Scrophularinecc. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  early  spring  or  mid-summer  ; 
by  cuttings',  which  should  be  taken  in  September  when  they 
will  readily  root  in  a  cold  frame,  or  under  a  hand-glass. 
Aotus.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds.      In  April  or  September  by  cuttings  of 
half-ripened  wood,  inserted  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass. 
Apeiba.      Tiliacece. 

Propagated  by  well  ripened  cuttings  planted  in  sand  in 
heat,  under  a  bell-glass,  which  should  be  tilted  occasionally 
to  give  air. 
Aphelandra.     Acanthacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  from  half  ripened  wood  taken  off 
with  a  heel.     Cut  the  base  of  each  clean  across;  insert  an 
inch  apart  in  pots  of  sandy  soil,  and  plunge  in  a  brisk  bottom 
heat. 
Aphelexis.     Composite?. 

Increased  by  seeds.     Also  by  cuttings  made  in  spring  or 
summer ;  small  half-ripened  side  shoots  are  the  best ;  and 
these  will  root  in  sandy  soil,  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  cool 
greenhouse. 
Aphyllanthes.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe 
in  pots  in  a  cool  greenhouse.      Divisions  are  also  made. 
Apios.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  the  tubers  or  divisions  of  them. 
Aplectrum  (Putty-Root).      Orchidece. 

Increased  by  the  bulb-like  subterranean  tubers  ;  also  by 
seeds.     A  difficult  plant  to  grow. 
Aplotaxis.     See  Saussurea. 
Apocynum  (Dog's  Bane).     Apocynacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,   suckers   and  divisions      The  best 
time  to  divide  is  just  as  the  plants  are  starting  into  growth 
in  spring. 
Aponogeton.     Naiadacece. 

Increased  rapidly  by  seeds  and  offsets.  The  seeds  should 
be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  pots  buried  in  loam,  and  covered 
with  glass. 


Il6  THE    NURSERY-BOOK. 

Apple  (Pyrus  Mains].     Rosacece. 

Standard  apple  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds,  and  dwarf 
stocks  from  layers.  Apple  seeds  are  either  imported  from 
France  or  are  obtained  from  pomace.  The  French  seeds 
give  what  are  technically  known  as  crab  stocks,  the  word  crab 
being  used  in  the  sense  of  a  wild  or  inferior,  apple.  The 
yearling  stocks  themselves  are  imported  from  France  in 
great  numbers.  It  has  been  supposed  that  French  crab 
stocks  are  hardier  and  more  vigorous  than  ours,  but  this 
opinion  is  much  less  common  than  formerly,  and  the  foreign 
stocks  are  not  so  popular  now  as  the  domestic  stocks. 

The  chief  source  of  apple  seeds  at  the  present  time  is  the 
pomace  from  cider  mills.  The  "cheese"  of  pomace  is 
broken  up,  and  if  the  material  is  dry  enough  it  may  be  run 
through  a  large  sieve  to  remove  the  coarser  parts.  The 
seeds  are  then  removed  by  washing.  Various  devices  are  in 
use  for  washing  them  out.  They  all  proceed  upon  the  fact 
that  the  pomace  will  rise  in  water  and  the  seeds  sink.  Some 
use  a  tub  or  common  tank,  which  is  tilted  a  little  to  allow  the 
water  to  flow  over  the  side.  Others  employ  boxes  some 
seven  or  eight  feet  long,  four  feet  wide  and  a  foot  deep,  the 
lower  end  of  which  is  only  eleven  inches  deep  to  allow  the 
escape  of  the  water.  This  box  is  set  upon  benches,  and  a 
good  stream  of  water  is  carried  into  it  at  the  upper  end.  A 
bushel  or  two  of  pomace  is  emptied  in  at  a  time,  and  it  is 
broken  and  stirred  with  a  fork  or  shovel.  When  the  seeds 
are  liberated  they  fall  to  the  bottom  and  the  refuse  runs 
over  the  lower  end.  Another  box  is  provided  with  several 
cleats,  at  intervals  of  about  a  foot,  and  the  ends  are  left 
open.  The  box  is  set  at  an  angle,  and  the  seeds  are  caught 
behind  the  cleats.  Seeds  must  not  stand  long  in  the  pomace 
pile,  or  they  will  be  seriously  injured.  Nurserymen  like  to 
secure  the  pomace  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from  the  press. 

As  soon  as  the  seeds  are  collected,  they  should  be  spread 
upon  tables  or  boards,  and  should  be  frequently  turned 
until  perfectly  dry.  They  may  then  be  stored  in  boxes  in 
slightly  damp  sand  or  sawdust,  or  in  powdered  charcoal  and 
kept  in  a  cool  and  dry  place  until  spring.  Or  if  they  are  to 
be  sown  immediately  they  need  not  be  dried,  but  simply 
mixed  with  enough  dry  sand  to  absorb  the  water  so  as  to 
make  them  easy  to  handle  Seeds  should  not  be  allowed  to 
become  hard  and  dry  through  long  exposure  to  the  air,  or 
they  will  germinate  unevenly.  Apple  seeds  procured  at  the 
seed  stores  are  often  worthless  because  of  this  neglect.  Very 
dry  seeds  can  sometimes  be  grown,  however,  by  subjecting 
them  to  repeated  soakings  and  then  sprouting  in  a  gentle  hot- 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  117 

bed  or  mild  forcing-house.  Change  the  water  on  the  seeds 
every  day,  and  at  the  end  of  a  week  or  ten  days  mix  with 
sand  and  place  in  a  thin  layer  in  the  hot-bed.  Stir  frequently 
to  prevent  molding.  When  the  seeds  begin  to  sprout,  sow 
them  in  the  open  ground.  This  operation,  which  is  some- 
times called  pipping,  may  be  performed  in  a  small  way  by 
the  kitchen  stove.  Seeds  are  sometimes  "pipped  "  between 
moist  blankets.  (See  also  page  17.) 

When  sowing  is  done  in  the  fall,  the  seeds  may  be  sown  in 
the  pomace.  This  entails  extra  labor  in  sowing,  but  it  saves 
the  labor  of  washing.  This  practice  gives  good  results  if 
the  pomace  is  finely  broken,  and  it  is  now  common  among 
nurserymen. 

In  loose  and  well-drained  soils,  sowing  is  undoubtedly  best 
performed  in  the  fall,  just  as  early  as  the  seeds  are  ready. 
But  upon  land  which  holds  much  water,  and  which  heaves 
with  frost  or  contains  much  clay,  spring  sowing  is  preferable. 
In  spring,  the  seeds  should  be  sown  just  as  soon  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked. 

If  the  stocks  are  to  be  cultivated  with  a  horse,  the  rows 
should  be  three  or  three  and  a  half  feet  apart.  Some  grow- 
ers sow  in  narrow  drills  and  some  in  broad  ones.  The  broad 
drills  are  usually  six  to  ten  inches  wide.  The  earth  is 
removed  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three  inches,  if  it  is  loose  and 
in  good  condition,  the  seed  is  scattered  thinly  on  the  surface 
and  the  earth  hoed  back  over  them.  If  the  ground  is  likely 
to  bake,  the  seeds  should  not  be  sown  so  deep  ;  and  it  is 
always  well,  in  such  cases,  to  apply  some  very  light  and 
clean  mulch.  The  plants  should  be  well  cultivated  during 
the  season,  and  they  should  attain  a  height  of  six  to  twelve 
inches  or  more  the  first  year.  If  the  plants  come  thickly, 
they  must  be  thinned  out. 

In  the  fall  of  the  first  year  the  seedlings  should  be  large 
enough  to  be  dug  and  sold  to  general  nurserymen.  Some- 
times the  poorest  plants  are  allowed  to  stand  another  year, 
but  they  are  usually  so  scattering  that  they  do  not  pay  for  the 
use  of  the  land,  and  they  should  be  transplanted  the  same 
as  the  larger  stock,  or  the  weakest  ones  may  be  thrown  away. 
The  stocks  are  dug  with  a  plow  or  tree-digger  and  heeled-in 
closely,  so  that  the  leaves  "sweat  "  and  fall  off.  The  plants 
are  then  stored  in  sand,  moss  or  sawdust  in  a  cellar.  Before 
they  are  shipped  the  tops  are  cut  off  near  the  crown,  usually 
with  a  hatchet  on  a  block.  The  stocks  are  then  graded  into 
budding  and  grafting  sizes.  The  general  nurserymen  buy 
these  stocks  in  fall  or  early  winter.  Those  which  are  root- 
grafted  are  worked  during  late  winter,  but  those  intended  for 


l8  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

budding,  or  which  must  be  grown  another  season  before 
they  attain  sufficient  size  for  working,  are  "dressed"  (See 
Chapter  V)  and  heeled-in  ;  in  the  spring  they  are  set  in 
nursery  rows,  from  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the 
row.  The  nurseryman  reckons  the  age  of  his  tree  from  the 
time  the  seedling  is  transplanted,  rather  than  from  the  time 
the  seed  was  sown. 

Seedling  raising  is  usually  conducted  by  men  who  make  it 
a  business  and  who  supply  the  general  nurserymen  of  the 
country.  It  is  largely  practiced  at  the  west,  where  the  deep 
and  strong  soils  produce  a  rapid  growth.  The  yearling  trees 
are  graded  by  the  western  growers  into  about  four  lots : 
1 '  Extras, "  or  those  at  least  one-fourth  inch  in  diameter  at  the 
crown  and  having  twelve  inches  of  both  top  and  root ;  these 
are  used  mostly  as  budding  stocks  the  next  season,  "  Com- 
mons," those  between  three-sixteenths  and  one-fourth  inch 
at  the  crown  and  having  eight  inches  of  root ;  these  are  used 
for  immediate  root-grafting.  "Second-class,"  those  from 
two  to  three-sixteenths  inch  at  the  crown,  and  "third-class," 
or  all  those  under  two-sixteenths.  The  last  two  classes  must 
be  grown  in  the  field  for  one  or  two  seasons  before  they  can 
be  worked. 

Dwarf  stocks  are  mostly  obtained  from  mound-layering. 
The  common  stock  for  dwarfing  is  the  Paradise  apple,  a 
dwarf  variety  of  the  common  apple  species  (Pyrtts  Mahts}. 
This  variety  rarely  attains  a  height  of  more  than  four  feet. 
A  larger  or  freer  stock  is  the  Doucin,  also  a  variety  of  Pyrus 
Mains,  which  will  produce  an  engrafted  tree  intermediate  in 
size  between  that  given  by  the  Paradise  and  free  or  common 
stocks.  This  is  little  used  in  this  country.  To  obtain  stools 
for  mound-layering,  the  tree,  when  well  established,  is  cut 
off  within  four  or  six  inches  of  the  ground  in  spring,  and  dur- 
ing the  summer  several  shoots  or  sprouts  will  arise.  The  next 
year  the  stool  is  covered  by  a  mound,  and  by  autumn  the  lay- 
ers are  ready  to  take  off.  Sometimes,  when  stocks  are  rare, 
mound-layering  is  performed  during  the  first  summer,  before 
the  young  shoots  have  hardened,  but  good  stocks  are  not  ob- 
tained by  this  method.  Common  green  layering  is  sometimes 
practiced  the  first  year,  but  it  is  not  in  favor.  The  dwarf 
stocks,  in  common  with  all  apple  stocks,  may  be  propagated 
by  root-cuttings  and  by  hard-wood  cuttings. 

Apple  stocks  are  either  grafted  or  budded.  Root-grafting 
is  the  most  common,  especially  at  the  west  where  long  scions 
are  used  in  order  to  secure  own-rooted  trees.  (See  Chap- 
ter V. )  Budding  is  gaining  in  favor  eastward  and  southward  ; 
it  is  performed  during  August  and  early  September  in  the 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  1 19 

northern  states,  or  it  may  be  begun  on  strong  stocks  in  July 
by  using  buds  which  have  been  kept  on  ice.  Stocks  should 
be  strong  enough  to  be  budded  the  same  year  they  are  trans- 
planted, but  the  operation  is  sometimes  deferred  until  the 
second  summer.  Stocks  which  cannot  be  worked  until  the 
second  year  are  unprofitable,  especially  on  valuable  land. 
For  root-grafting,  strong  one-year-old  roots,  are  best,  but 
two-year-olds  are  often  used. 

In  common  practice,  the  root  is  cut  into  two  or  three 
pieces  of  two  to  three  inches  each,  but  stronger  trees  are 
obtained,  at  least  the  first  year  or  two,  by  using  the  whole 
root  and  grafting  upon  the  crown.  The  lowest  piece  is 
usually  small  and  weak  and  is  generally  discarded. 

The  apple  is  easily  top-grafted  and  top-budded.  (See 
Chapter  V.) 

Apple  Berry.     See  Billardiera. 
Apricot  {Prunus  Armeniacd).      Rosacecv. 

The  apricot  thrives  upon  a  variety  of  stocks.  Apricot 
stocks  are  used  in  apricot-growing  regions,  especially  for 
deep  and  rich  well-drained  soils.  The  pits  grow  readily  if 
given  the  same  treatment  as  that  detailed  for  the  peach 
(which  see).  The  stocks  are  also  handled  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  peach  stocks.  Apricots  upon  apricot  roots  are  not 
largely  grown  out  side  of  California,  in  this  country.  Apricot 
stocks  can  be  grown  from  root  cuttings  the  same  as  cherries 
and  other  stone  fruits. 

The  apricot  does  well  upon  the  peach,  especially  on  light 
soils.  In  the  warmer  parts  of  the  country  peach  is  much  used. 

Plum  stocks  are  commonly  used  at  the  north,  especially  if 
the  trees  are  to  be  planted  in  moist  or  heavy  soils.  The 
common  plum  is  generally  used,  but  some  of  the  native 
plum  stocks  are  now  coming  into  favor,  especially  in  trying 
climates.  The  Russian  apricots,  which  are  a  hardy  race  of 
Prunus  Armeniaca,  are  grown  in  colder  climates  than  the 
common  varieties,  and  they  therefore  demand  hardy  stocks. 
Any  of  the  native  plums  make  good  stocks,  but  the  Marianna 
is  now  coming  into  especial  prominence.  The  myrobolan 
plum  can  be  used  for  all  apricots,  but  it  is  not  popular,  par- 
ticularly in  severe  climates. 

The  almond,  both  hard  and  soft-shelled,  is  sometimes  used 
for  the  apricot,  but  the  union  is  likely  to  be  imperfect  and  it 
is  not  recommended.  Almond-rooted  trees  are  best  adapted 
to  light  soils. 

Varieties  of  apricots  are  usually  budded,  in  the  same  way 
as  the  peach,  although  they  may  be  side-grafted  at  the  crown 
in  the  nursery  row. 


120  THE    NURSERY-BOOK. 

Aquartia.     See  Solatium. 

Aquilegia  (Columbine).     Ranunculacece. 

Increased  by  seeds.  They  must  be  sown  very  thinly,  soon 
after  being  ripe,  in  a  sandy  soil  or  in  pans  in  a  cold  frame. 
Division  of  the  root  is  the  only  way  to  perpetuate  any  par- 
ticular variety  with  certainty, 

Arabis  (Wall  Cress,  Rock  Cress).      Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  the  border  or  in  pans,  in  spring. 
By  divisions  of  the  root,  and  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  shady 
border  during  summer. 

Arachis  (Pea-Nut,  Ground-Nut).     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  heat  ;  and, 
when  the  plants  have  grown  to  a  sufficient  size,  they  should 
be  potted  off  singly.  See  under  Pea-Nut 

Arachnimorpha.     See  Rondeletia. 
Aralia.     Araliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  root  cuttings  ;  also  by  stem 
cuttings,  in  heat. 

Araucaria,  Eutacta.     Coniferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  pans  or  boxes,  with  but  gentle 
heat.  By  cuttings  from  the  leading  shoots,  placed  firmly  in 
a  pot  of  sand  ;  they  first  require  a  cool  place,  but  afterwards 
may  be  subjected  to  a  slight  warmth.  When  rooted,  pot  off 
into  fibrous  loam,  mixed  with  leaf  soil  and  sand. 

Arbor-vitae.     See  Thuya. 

Arbutus  (Strawberry  Tree).     Ericaceae. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  sand  during 

early  spring,  and  by  grafting,  budding,  or  inarching  upon  A. 

Unedo. 

Arctotheca.     Composite. 

Propagated  by  divisions  of  the  plant,  or  by  cuttings  in 
spring. 

Arctotis.     Composite^. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  may  be  made  at  any  time  ; 
they  should  be  pricked  in  pots  of  very  sandy  soil,  and  placed 
in  very  gentle  warmth.  They  must  be  kept  uncovered  and 
moderately  dry,  or  they  will  rot 

Ardisia,     Myrsinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  I2i 

Areca  (Cabbage  Palm).     Palmce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  a  compost  of 
loam,  peat,  and  leaf  soil,  in  equal  parts,  with  a  liberal  addi- 
tion of  sand,  and  placed  in  a  moist  and  gentle  heat. 
Arenaria  (Sand  wort).     Caryophyllecc. 

Increased  by  seeds,  division  or  cuttings  ;  the  last  placed 
under  a  hand-glass  will  root  freely  Seeds  should  be  sown 
in  spring  in  a  cold  frame.  The  best  time  to  divide  the  plant 
is  early  spring,  or  during  July  and  August. 

Aretia.     See  Androsace. 

Argania.     Sapotacece. 

Increased  by  layers  and  cuttings.  The  latter  require  a 
propagating  frame  Both  should  be  made  in  autumn  and 
spring,  and  in  a  moderately  heated  greenhonse. 

Argemone.     Papaveracece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  out-doors  in  Spring  ; 
those  of  the  rarer  species  in  a  hot-bed. 

Argyreia  (Silver-  weed).      Convolvulacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  will  do  well  in  sand,  with  a 
hand-glass  over  them,  in  a  little  bottom  heat. 

Argyrochseta.     See  Parthenium 
Argyroxyphium.     Composite? 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
Arisarum.     Aroidece 

Propagated  in  spring  by  seeds  or  divisions  of  the  root. 
Aristea.     Iridece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions. 
Aristolochia  (Brithwort).     Aristolochiacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  layers,  which  are  not  very  satis- 
factory. Cuttings  root  freely  in  sand,  under  a  bell-glass 
with  bottom  heat.  The  seeds  must  be  fresh. 


Aristotelia. 

Propagated  by  layers,  or  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  root 
freely  if  placed  under  a  hand-glass. 

Armeria  (Thrift,  Sea  Pink).     Plumbaginece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  in  pots  of  sandy  soil, 
and  placed  in  a  cold  frame  ;  by  division,  separate  pieces 
being  planted  as  cuttings  under  hand-glasses. 


122  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Arnatto.     See  Bixa. 
Arnebia.     Boraginece. 

Increased  by  seeds.  Cuttings  of  the  strong  shoots  should 
be  inserted  in  pots  of  sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  gentle  heat. 

Arnica.     Compositce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  a  cold  frame  in  spring,  and 
by  divisions,  which  should  be  made  in  spring. 

Aronicum.     See  Doronicum. 
Arracacha.     Umbelliferce. 

Increased  by  divisions  of  the  roots. 
Arrow-root.     SeeCalathea. 
Arrhostoxylum.     See  Ruellia. 
Artabotrys.     Anonacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  and  by  cuttings  of  ripened  wood, 
placed  in  early  spring  in  sand  under  a  frame,  with  bottom 
heat. 
Artanema.     Scrophulariacece. 

Increased  readily  by  seeds  and  cuttings. 
Artanthe.     See  Piper. 

Artemisia  (Mugwort,  Southernwood,  Wormwood).     Composite. 
The  annuals  by  seeds ;  the  herbaceous  ones,  by  dividing 
at  the  root ;  the  shrubby  kinds  by  cuttings. 

Arthropodium.     Lihacece. 

Increased  freely  by  seeds  and  by  divisions. 
Arthrostemma.     Melastomacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  small  firm  side  shoots,  which 
will  root,  in  April  or  August,  under  a  hand-glass  in  sandy 
soil. 

Artichoke  (Cynara  Scolymtis}.      Compositce. 

Usually  grown  from  seeds.  Although  the  plant  is  peren- 
nial, a  new  stock  should  be  started  about  every  other  year. 
It  may  be  increased  also  by  suckers  or  divisions  of  the  stools. 

Artichoke,  Jerusalem  (Helianthus  tuberosus].      Composite. 

Commonly  increased  by  means  of  the  tubers,  which  may 
be  planted  whole  or  cut  into  eyes,  after  the  manner  of  pota- 
toes. Seeds  are  very  rarely  used. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  12$ 

Artocarpus  (Bread  Fruit).      Urticacece. 

Propagation  is  difficult.     Suckers  may  be  utilized  when 
procurable.     The  young  and  slender  lateral  growths  are  used 
for  cuttings. 
Arum.     Aroidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  but  usually  by  division  of  the  roots, 
the  best  time  being  just  as  they  begin  their  new  growth, 
securing  as  many  roots  as  possible  to  each  division.  Any 
rootless  pieces  should  be  placed  in  heat  shortly  after  re- 
moval ;  this  hastens  the  formation  of  roots  and  excites  top 
growth.  Arisaemas  are  treated  in  the  same  way. 
Arundinaria.  Graminece. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  root. 
Amndo  (Reed).      Graminece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  divisions,   spring  being  the  best 
time  for  either  method.     In  early  autumn,  the  canes  can  be 
cut  into  lengths  of  18  to  24  inches  and  partly  buried  in  sand 
in  a  gentle  bottom  heat,  laying  them  horizontally. 
Asarum.     Aristolochiacece. 

Propagated  easily  by  divisions  in  spring. 
Ascaricida.     See  Vernonia. 
Ascium.     See  Norantea. 
Asclepias  (Milk-weed,  Swallow-wort).      Asclepiadece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  pots  in  spring,  pricked  out 
singly  when  large  enough,  and  treated  like  cuttings.  By 
cuttings,  which  should  be  secured  in  spring,  struck  in  gentle 
heat,  under  a  bell-glass,  and  as  soon  as  they  are  well-rooted 
potted  into  small  pots.  Seeds  of  A.  tuberosa  must  be  sown 
or  stratified  at  once. 
Ascy  rum .  Hypericina . 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  careful  divisions  of  the  roots  in 
spring. 

Ash.     See  Fraxinus. 
Asimina.     Anonacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  procured  from  their  native  country. 
The  seedlings  should  be  raised  in  pots,  and  sheltered  care- 
fully.    By  layers  made  in  autumn. 
Aspalathus.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  young  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood,  placed 
in  sand,  in  spring,  under  bell-glasses,  which  must  be  wiped 
dry  occasionally. 


124  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Asparagus.     Liliacece. 

The  common  kitchen  garden  asparagus  is  best  propagated 
by  means  of  seeds.  These  are  sown  in  spring  as  soon  as  the 
ground  can  be  worked,  usually  in  rows  a  foot  or  two  apart. 
Thin  the  young  plants  to  two  or  three  inches  apart  in  the 
row  and  give  good  culture,  and  the  plants  can  be  set  in  the 
field  the  following  spring,  and  they  will  give  a  fair  crop  after 
growing  there  two  seasons.  Small  growers  nearly  always 
buy  plants  of  nurserymen.  Old  asparagus  crowns  can  be 
divided,  but  seeds  give  better  plants. 

The  ornamental  species  of  asparagus  are  propagated  by 
seeds  when  they  are  obtainable  ;  otherwise,  by  division. 
Asperula.     Rubiacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  divisions  of  the  roots  during 
spring  and  early  summer. 
Asphodeline.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  division. 
Asphodelus  (Asphodel).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division  of  the  root  in  early 
spring. 

Aspidistra.     Liliacece. 
Aspidium.     See  under  Ferns. 
Asplenium.     See  under  Ferns. 

Propagated  by  suckers. 
Assonia.     Sterculiacece. 

Propagated  by  young  cuttings,  which  will  root  freely  in 
sand  with  strong  bottom  heat,  if  covered  with  a  bell-glass. 
Astartea.     Myrtacecc. 

Increased  by  young  cuttings,  in  sand,  in  gentle  heat,  under 
a  bell-glass. 
Astelma.     Composite. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  pots  of  light,  open  soil,  in 
gentle    heat.     By    half-ripened    cuttings,    which    will    root 
readily  in  sandy  soil  with  a  hand-glass  over  them. 
Astephanus.     Asclepiadece. 

Propagated  by  divisions  ;  and  by  cuttings,  in  sandy  soil,  in 
moderate  heat. 
Aster  (Aster,  Michaelmas  Daisy,  Star-wort).      Composite?. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  or  by  root  divisions 
made  in  autumn ;  also  by  cuttings,  which  root  freely  in 
sandy  soil  under  a  hand-glass,  with  little  heat. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  I25 

Asteracantha.     Acanthacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  August ;  and  by  divisions  in 
spring. 

Asteriscus.     See  Odontospermum. 
Aster ocephalus.     See  Scabiosa. 
Asteropterus.     See  Leyssera. 
Asterostigma.     See  Staurostigma. 
Astilbe.     Saxifragece. 

Propagated  by  division  in  early  spring,  and  by  seeds  if 
they  are  produced. 

Astragalus  (Milk  Vetch).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  pots  of  sandy  soil  placed  in  a 
cold  frame,  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  early  in  the  spring,  as  they  may 
lie  a  long  time  before  germinati/ig.  The  herbaceous  peren- 
nials also  increase  by  divisions,  and  the  shrubby  kinds  slowly 
by  means  of  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame. 

Astrantia.      Umbelliferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  root  divisions  in  autumn  or  spring. 
Astrapaea.     Sterculiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  young  wood  made  in  spring, 
placed  in  a  compost  of  loam  and  peat,  or  sand,  under  a  bell- 
glass,  in  heat. 

Astrocaryum,  Phosnicophorum.     Palmce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  in  a  hot-bed  ;  or  by 
suckers,  if  obtainable. 

Astroloma.     Epacridece. 

Propagated  by  young  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  soil,  under 
a  bell-glass,  in  a  cool  house. 

Asystasia.     Acanthacei?. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots,  placed  in  sand, 
under  a  bell-glass,  with  a  strong  bottom  heat,  in  spring. 

Ataccia.     See  Tacca. 
Atalantia.     Rutacece. 

Propagated  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  root  freely  in 
sandy  soil  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Atamasco  Lily.     See  Amaryllis. 


126  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Athamanta.      Umbelliferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  or  by  division. 
Athanasia.     Composite. 

Propagated  by  means  of  cuttings  taken  from  half-ripened 
wood  in  spring,  and  placed  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass. 

Atherosperma.     Monimiacece. 

Propagated  readily  by  cuttings. 
Athlianthus.     See  Justicia. 
Athrixia.     Comfiositce. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  young  wood,  under  a  bell-glass 
in  sandy  soil. 

Athrotaxis.     Conifer  at. 

Increased  by  cuttings. 
Atragene.     Ranunculacece. 

Seeds  should  be  stratified,  and  sown  in  early  spring,  in 
gentle  heat.  By  layering  in  autumn  ;  the  layers  should 
not  be  separated  for  about  a  year,  when  they  will  be  vigor- 
ous plants.  By  cuttings,  which  should  be  set  in  light  soil 
and  placed  under  a  hand-glass. 

Atropa  (Belladonna).     Solanacece. 
Seeds. 

Aubletia.     See  Paliurus. 

Aubrietia.     Crucifera 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  spring 
In  early  autumn  carefully  transplant  to  a  cool  shady  bor- 
der. Also  by  divisions.  Where  a  stock  of  old  plants  exists, 
layer  their  long  slender  branches  any  time  after  flower- 
ing, and  cover  with  a  mixture  of  sand  and  leaf  soil  ;  they 
will  then  root  freely  and  establish  themselves  in  time  for 
spring  blooming.  Cuttings  should  be  "  drawn  "  or  grown 
in  a  frame  until  they  are  soft,  before  they  are  removed. 

Aucuba.      Cornacece. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe ;  or  by 
cuttings,  inserted  in  spring  or  autumn  in  sandy  soil,  with  or 
without  a  covering. 

Audouinia.     Bruniacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood,  in  sand, 
under  a  bell-glass,  in  gentle  heat. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  127 

Aulax.     Proteacece. 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings,  taken  off  at  a  joint,  and 
inserted  in  pots  of  sandy  soil.  These  will  root  well  under  a 
hand-glass,  in  a  cool  house. 

Auricula  (Primula  Auricula).     Primulacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  in  spring,  in 
well-drained  pots,  filled  with  sandy  soil,  well  watered  pre- 
vious to  sowing.  Cover  lightly  with  coarse  sand,  place  a 
Dane  of  glass  over  the  pot,  and  place  the  latter  in  a  hand- 
glass. By  offsets,  which  should  be  removed  when  top- 
dressed,  as  they  are  more  likely  to  root.  Arrange  about 
four  offsets  around  the  sides  of  well-drained  three-inch  pots, 
filled  with  sandy  soil,  place  under  a  bell-glass  or  in  a  close 
hand-light,  water  very  sparingly  so  as  to  prevent  them 
damping  off  After  becoming  established,  admit  air,  and  pot 
off  singly. 

Australian  Feather-palm.     See  Ptychosperma. 
Australian  Mint-bush.     See  Prostanthera. 
Avens.     See  Geum. 
Averrhoa.      Geraniacea?. 

Increased  in  spring  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  which  will 
root  in  sand,  under  a  hand-glass,  with  bottom  heat. 
Axillaria.     See  Polygonatum. 
Azalea.     Erica  cea. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  early  the  fol- 
lowing spring,  in  a  large  shallow  frame  containing  from  two 
to  three  inches  of  peat,  over  which  more  peat  must  be  spread 
by  means  of  a  fine  sieve  ;  do  not  cover,  but  water  thoroughly. 
When  the  seedlings  begin  to  appear  they  should  have  air, 
shade,  and  a  daily  sprinkling  of  water  ;  transplant  in  autumn 
in  boxes  of  peat  and  coarse  sand,  water,  shade  and  keep  close 
until  growth  commences.  Grafting  is  largely  practiced  to 
increase  the  stock  of  named  varieties  or  choice  seedlings,  the 
stock  most  employed  being  A.  pontica  for  hardy  sorts,  and 
some  strong  growing  variety  of  A,  Indica,  like  "  Phoenicia," 
for  tender  ones.  Layering  in  spring,  enclosing  the  part  bur- 
ied with  moss,  is  also  practiced  ;  but  the  layer  must  be  left 
two.  years  before  separating.  Cuttings  of  the  last  year's 
wood  two  or  three  inches  long,  taken  with  a  heel,  root  read- 
ily in  sand  ;  about  the  end  of  summer  is  the  best  time  When 
placed  outside  they  should  be  covered  with  a  hand-light  for 
about  two  months,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time  air  should  be 
given  freely. 


128  THE  NURSE R  Y-BO  OK. 

Azara.     Bixinece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings. 
Babiana.     Iridece. 

Propagated  quickly  by  seeds  sown  in  pans,  placed  in  a 
gentle  heat.  These  will  grow  at  almost  any  time.  The 
young  plants  will  require  to  be  carefully  transplanted  each 
season  until  they  develop  into  blooming  corms.  By  offsets 
grown  in  boxes  or  planted  out  in  light  rich  soil  until  large 
enough  for  flowering. 

Babingtonia.     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  the  young  sterile  shoots,  which 
may  be  planted  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass,  and  kept  in  a 
moderate  heat  until  rooted,  when  they  should  be  placed 
singly  in  small  pots,  in  a  compost  of  equal  parts  loam  and 
peat,  with  a  little  sand. 

Baccharis  (Ploughman's  Spikenard).      Composite?, 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings. 
Backhousia.     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  in  sand,  under  a  bell- 
glass,  in  a  cool  house,  during  spring 

Bactris.     Palme  ce. 

Increased  by  suckers,  which  are  very  easily  produced. 
Badamea.     See  Terminalia. 
Baea,  Dorcoceras.      Gesneracece. 
Propagated  easily  by  seeds. 
Baeckea.     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  young  wood,  which  will  root  free- 
ly if  placed  in  a  pot  of  sand,  with  a  bell-glass  over  them,  in 
a  cool  house. 

Baeria.     Compositce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring. 
Bahia,  Phialis.     Compositce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions. 
Balbisia,  Ledocarpum.      Geraniacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  made  from  the  half- 
ripened  wood,  placed  in  sand,  under  a  hand-glass. 

Baldingera.     See  Premna. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


I29 


Balfouria      See  Wrightia. 

Balm  {Melissa  officinalis}.     Labiatce. 

Seeds  sown  out-doors  in  spring.     Division. 
Balsam  (Impatiens  balsamina).      Geraniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  early  spring,  in  pans  of  rich, 
sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat  of  about  65°. 
Or  the  seeds  may  be  sown  directly  in  the  garden  when  the 
weather  becomes  warm.  Varieties  increased  by  layers  in 
late  summer,  under  glass,  or  by  veneer  grafting. 

Balsamodendron.     Burseracece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  taken  from  the  ripe  young  wood,  in 
spring,  and  placed  under  a  hand-glass,  in  bottom  heat. 

Balsam-tree.     See  Clusia. 

Bambusa  (Bamboo).     Graminece. 

Propagated  by  careful  division  of  well-developed  plants, 
in  early  spring,  just  as  new  growth  is  commencing  ;  establish 
the  divisions  in  pots.  If  young  shoots  are  layered,  leave 
only  the  end  exposed. 

Banana  and  Plantain    (Musa  sapientum,  M.  paradisiaca  and 
others).     Scitaminece. 

Edible  bananas  rarely  produce  seeds.  The  young  plants 
are  obtained  from  suckers,  which  spring  from  the  main  root- 
t  stock.  These  suckers  are  transplanted  when  two  or  three 
feet  high.  These  plants  themselves  do  not  produce  so  good 
crops  as  the  suckers  which  arise  from  them,  and  are  not 
transplanted.  Two  or  three  suckers  are  sufficient  for  a  plant 
at  a  time  ;  what  others  arise  should  be  transplanted  or  de- 
stroyed. The  suckers  should  be  set  deep,  as  low  as  two  feet 
for  best  results.  In  fifteen  or  eighteen  months  the  plants 
will  bloom,  if  they  have  had  good  care.  The  stem  bears 
fruit  but  once,  but  new  stems  arise  to  take  its  place. 

Baneberry.     See  Actaea. 
Banisteria.     Malpighiacece . 

Propagated  by  cuttings  from  ripened  wood,  which  will 
root  freely  in  sandy  soil,  under  a  hand-glass,  in  stove  heat. 

Banksia.     Proteacece. 

Seeds  are  very  unsatisfactory.  Propagated  by  well-ripened 
cuttings  taken  off  at  a  joint,  and  placed  in  pots  of  sand  with- 
out shortening  any  of  the  leaves,  except  on  the  part  that  is 


1 30  THE    NURSERY-BOOK. 

planted  in  the  sand,  where  they  should  be  taken  off  quite 
close  The  less  depth  the  better,  so  long  as  they  stand  firm. 
Place  them  under  hand-glasses  in  a  propagating  house,  but 
do  not  plunge  them  in  heat. 

Baphia  (Camwood,  Barwood).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  should  not  be  deprived  of 
any  of  their  leaves.     Place  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass  in 
heat. 
Baptisia.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  sand  and 
leaf-mould  in  the  open,  or  in  pots  placed  in  a  cold  frame. 
By  divisions. 
Barbadoes  Gooseberry.     See  Pereskia. 

Barbarea    (Winter   Cress,    American   Cress,    Upland   Cress). 

Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  divisions,  suckers  and  cuttings. 
Barberry  (Berberis  vulgar  is},     Berberidea. 

Propagated  by  stratified  seeds,  or  by  suckers,  layers  and 
cuttings  of  mature  wood.      Layers  are  usually  allowed  to  re- 
main two  years.     Rare  sorts  are  sometimes  grafted  on  com- 
mon stocks. 
Barbieria.     Leguminoste. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  wood,  which 
should  be  placed  in  sand,  under  a  glass,  in  strong  heat. 

Barkeria.     Orchidece. 

Propagated  by  divisions  made  just  before  new  growth 
commences.  See  under  Orchids. 

Barklya.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds ;    also  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  which 
should  be  placed  in  sandy  soil,  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  cool 
house. 
Barleria.     Acanthacece. 

Propagated    by  cuttings  made  of   the   young  wood,   and 
placed  in  a  compost  of  loam  and  peat  with  a  little  rotten 
dung,  under  a  bell-glass,  in  stove  temperature  with  bottom 
heat. 
Barnadesia.     Compost  tec. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  in  heat.  By  off- 
sets. By  cuttings  made  of  half-ripened  wood  in  spring,  and 
placed  in  sand,  under  a  bell-glass. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  131 

Barnardia.     See  Scilla. 

Barosma,  Parapetalifera.     Rulacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  root  readily  if  taken  from 

ripened  wood  and  placed  in  a  pot  of  sand,  in  a  shady  place 

in  a  cool  house,  with  a  bell-glass  over  them. 

Barrenwort.     See  Epimedium. 

Barringtonia.     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  taken  from  the  lateral  shoots,  at  a 
joint,  when  the  wood  is  ripe  ;  place  in  sand  and  cover  with  a 
hand-glass.  The  cuttings  should  not  be  stripped  of  any  of 
their  leaves. 

Bartonia.    Loasece. 

Increased  by  seeds  in  spring,  in  gentle  heat.  The  seed- 
lings should  be  potted  singly  into  small,  well-drained  pots. 
In  winter  they  should  be  placed  on  a  dry  shelf  in  a  green- 
house or  frame.  ' 

Barwood.     See  Baphia. 

Basil  (^Ocymum  JZasilicum  and  O.  minimum}.     Labiabce. 

Seeds,  sown  in  a  hot-bed  or  out-doors. 
Bassia.     Sapotacea. 

Increased  by  cuttings  taken  from  ripened  wood  ;  place  in 
sand,  under  a  hand-glass,  in  a  strong,  moist  heat. 

Basswood.     See  Tilia. 

Bastard  Balm.     See  Melittis. 

Bastard  Cedar      See  Cedrela. 

Bastard  Indigo.     See  Amorpha. 

Batatas.     See  Ipomaea  and  Sweet  Potato. 

Batemannia.     Orchidece. 

Increased  by  divisions  and  offsets. 

Batschia.     See  Lithospermum 

Bauera.     Saxifragecc 

Propagated  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  soil  under  a  glass 

Bauhinia  (Mountain  Ebony).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  taken  when  the 
wood  is  neither  very  ripe  nor  very  young.  The  leaves  must 
be  dressed  off,  and  the  cuttings  planted  in  sand  under  a  glass 
in  moist  heat.  Also  by  seeds 


132  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Bay-berry.     See  Myrica. 
Bean      Leguminostz. 

Seeds  ;  sow  only  after  the  weather  is  thoroughly  settled 
for  out-door  culture. 

Bean  Caper.     See  Zygophyllum. 

Bean,  Sacred,  or  Water.     See  Nelumbium. 

Beard-tongue.     See  Pentstemon. 

Bear's  Breech.     See  Acanthus. 

Bear's  Grass.     See  Yucca. 

Beaucarnea.    Liliacece. 

Increased  chiefly  by  seeds  which  have  been  imported  from 
their  native  country.  By  cuttings,  when  obtainable. 

Beaufortia,  including  Schizopleura.     Myrlacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  ;  place  in  a 
sandy  soil  under  a  glass,  with  very  little  heat. 

Beaumontia.     Apocynacea. 

Increased  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand  in  bottom  heat. 
Bedfordia.     Composite. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  dried  a  little  be- 
fore inserting  them  in  a  light  soil. 

Beech.     See  Fagus. 

Beefwood.     See  Casuarina. 

Beet  (Beta  vulgaris}.      Chenopodiacece. 

Seeds,  sown  very  early. 
Befaria,  Bejaria.     Ericaceae. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  young  wood,  placed  in  sandy 
soil,  in  gentle  heat. 

Begonia.     Begoniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  well  ripened  before  they  are  gathered, 
and  kept  very  dry  until  sown.  For  the  successful  raising  of 
begonias,  it  is  necessary  to  sow  the  seed  in  pans  or  pots  of 
well-drained,  light,  sandy  soil,  which  should  be  well  watered 
before  the  seeds  are  sown.  The  seeds  should  not  be  covered 
with  soil,  or  they  will  fail  to  germinate.  Place  a  pane  of 
glass  over  the  pans,  and  set  in  a  warm  house  or  frame, 
where  a  temperature  of  about  65°  can  be  maintained,  and 
shade  from  the  sun.  As  soon  as  the  plants  are  large  enough 
they  should  be  pricked  off  into  pans  of  light  leaf-mould  soil, 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  133 

in  which  they  may  remain  until  large  enough  to  be  placed 
singly  in  pots.  By  divisions  of  the  rhizomes.  Also  increased 
by  cuttings,  which  strike  freely  in  pots  of  sand  and  leaf- 
mould,  and  placed  on  a  bottom  heat  of  about  70°.  Where 
large  quantities  are  required,  a  bed  of  cocoanut  fiber  in  a  stove 
or  propagating-f  rame  may  be  used,  and  in  this  the  cuttings  may 
be  planted,  and  remain  until  well  rooted.  Leaf  cuttings  suc- 
ceed best  when  laid  on  sand  or  cocoanut  fiber,  and  shaded 
from  bright  sunlight.  Select  old,  well-matured  leaves,  and 
make  an  incision  with  a  sharp  knife  across  the  principal 
nerves,  on  the  under  side  They  should  then  be  placed  on 
the  sand  or  fiber,  and  held  down  by  means  of  a  few  pieces 
of  crock.  Under  this  treatment  bulbils  will  form  on  the 
lower  ends  of  the  nerves  of  each  section  of  the  leaf,  and 
these,  when  large  enough,  may  be  removed  from  the  bed  and 
potted.  Fan-shaped  pieces  of  leaves  are  often  used.  Leaf 
cuttings  of  begonia  are  described  and  figure  in  Chapter  IV. 
Species  like  B,  diver sifoliat  etc.,  may  be  propagated  by  the 
bulblets  which  form  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  Tuberous  be- 
gonias are  best  propagated  by  seeds,  as  described  above,  but 
stem  cuttings  can  be  used  with  fair  success,  if  they  are  cut  just 
below  a  joint. 

Bejaria.     See  Befaria. 

Belenia.     See  Physochlaina. 

Bellardia.     See  Manettia. 

Bellevalia.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe.  By  offsets. 

Bellllower.     See  Campanula. 

Bellidiastrum.     Composite?. 

Increased  by  divisions  in  early  spring,  or  directly  after 
blooming. 

Bellis  (Daisy).     Composite. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  early  spring. 
By  division  after  flowering,  each  crown  making  a  separate 
plant.  The  soil  must  be  pressed  about  them  moderately  firm. 

Bellwort.     See  Uvularia. 

Bellium.     Composite?. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  also  by  divisions  made  in  spring. 

Beloperone,  Dianthera.     Acanthacece. 

Propagated  by  young  cuttings.  They  should  be  taken  in 
spring. 


134  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Belvala.     See  Struthiola. 
Belvisia.     See  Napoleona. 
Bengal  Quince.    See  yEgle. 
Bennetia.     See  Saussurea. 
Bent  Grass.     See  Agrostis. 
Benthamia.     Cornacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  when  ripe  in  a  cool  house,  or 

layering  in  autumn.     By  cuttings,  and  by  grafting  on  the 

dogwood. 

Benzoin  {Lindera  Benzoin)      Laurinece. 

Seed. 
Berardia.     Composite. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring. 
Berberidopsis.     Berber  idece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring,  by  layering  in  autumn,  or 
by  young  cuttings  in  spring. 

Berberis.     See  Barberry. 
Berchemia.     Rhamnew. 

Propagated  by  layering  the  young  shoots.  By  ripened 
cuttings,  and  slips  of  the  root  planted  under  a  hand-glass. 

Bergera.     Rtitacece. 

Increased  by  layers  or  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  should 
be  taken  off  at  a  joint  and  placed  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass 
in  bottom  heat. 

Berkheya.     Compositce. 

The  herbaceous  perennials  usually  by  divisions  of  the  plant 
in  spring  ;  the  other  species  by  cuttings  placed  under  a  glass. 

Bertolonia.      Melastomacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings. 
Berzelia.     Bruniacece. 

Increased  by  young  cuttings  inserted  in  sand  under  a  bell- 
glass,  in  gentle  heat. 

Besleria,  Eriphia.      Gesneracece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  placed  in  heat. 
Bessera.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  offsets. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  135 

Betonica.     See  Stachys. 

Betula  (Birch).     Cupuliferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  must  be  sown  as  soon  as  gath- 
ered, or  else  stratified.  By  grafting  or  budding  upon  seed- 
ling stocks  of  the  common  kinds  ;  the  former  should  be  done 
in  spring  or  late  winter,  and  the  latter  in  summer  when  the 
buds  are  ready. 

Bidens   (Bur  Marigold).      Composite^. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  divisions  of  the  plant. 
Biebersteinia.     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  April  in  a  slight  hot-bed.  In 
early  summer  by  cuttings,  placed  under  a  hand-glass. 

Bigelovia.      Composite. 

Propagated  by  cuttings. 
Bignonia  (Trumpet  Flower).     Bignoniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  layering,  or,  in  early  spring,  by  cut- 
tings made  from  good  strong  shoots  with  two  or  three  joints. 
Place  cuttings  of  tender  sorts  in  a  well-drained  pot  of  sandy 
soil,  under  a  bell-glass,  in  bottom  heat.  Also  by  seeds.  B. 
radicans  propagates  readily  from  root  cuttings. 

Billardiera  (Apple  Berry).     Pittosporece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  pot  of 
sandy  soil,  under  a  bell-glass,  in  gentle  heat. 

Billbergia.     Bromeliacece. 

Propagated  by  suckers  which  are  taken  from  the  base  of  the 
plant  after  flowering,  when  they  have  attained  a  good  size. 
The  best  method  to  adopt  is  as  follows  :  Take  the  sucker  in 
the  hand  and  gently  twist  it  off  the  stem  ;  next,  trim  the  base 
by  the  removal  of  a  few  of  the  lower  leaves,  and  then  insert 
each  sucker  separately  in  a  small  pot,  in  sharp  soil.  A  bot- 
tom heat  of  about  80°  will  greatly  facilitate  new  root  growth  ; 
failing  this,  they  will  root  freely  in  the  temperature  of  a 
stove,  if  placed  in  a  shaded  position  for  two  or  three  weeks, 
after  which  they  will  bear  increased  light  and  sunshine  dur- 
ing the  latter  part  of  the  day. 

Bilberry.     See  Vaccinium. 
Bindweed.     See  Convolvulus. 
Biophytum.     Geraniacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  on  a  hot-bed. 


136  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Biota.     See  Thuya. 

Biotia.     See  Madia. 

Bird  of  Paradise  Flower.     See  Strelitzia. 

Bird's-tongue  Flower.     See  Strelitzia. 

Birch.     See  Betula. 

Birthwort.     See  Aristolochia. 

Bitter  Sweet.     See  Celastrus  and  Solanum. 

Bitter  Vetch.     See  Orobus. 

Bivonaea.     Crutiferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  spring  where 

the  plants  are  intended  to  remain.     They  should  be  thinned 

out  to  insure  full  growth. 

Bixa  (Arnatto).     Bixinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  when  ripe,  in  bottom  heat,  or 
by  cuttings  put  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat  ;  the 
latter  is  the  better  method. 

Blackberry  (Rubus  villosus  and  vars.).     Rosacece. 

New  varieties  are  obtained  from  seeds,  which  may  be  sown 
as  soon  as  they  are  cleaned  from  the  ripe  fruit,  or  which  may 
be  stratified  until  the  next  spring.  If  the  soil  is  in  prime  con- 
dition, fall  sowing  is  preferable. 

Varieties  are  multiplied  by  suckers  and  by  root  cuttings. 
The  suckers  spring  up  freely  about  the  old  plants,  especially 
if  the  roots  are  broken  by  the  cultivator  ;  but  they  have  few 
fibrous  roots  and  are  inferior.  The  best  plants  are  obtained 
from  root  cuttings.  Roots  from  one-fourth  to  three-eighths 
inch  in  diameter  are  selected  for  this  purpose.  The  roots 
are  dug  in  the  fall,  cut  into  pieces  an  inch  or  two  long,  and 
stored  until  early  spring.  They  may  be  buried  in  boxes  of 
sand  after  the  manner  of  stratified  seeds,  or  stored  in  a  cool 
cellar  ;  callusing  proceeds  most  rapidly  in  a  cellar.  The 
pieces  are  planted  horizontally  an  inch  or  two  deep,  in  loose, 
rich  soil.  It  is  best  to  put  Ihem  in  a  frame  and  give  them 
slight  bottom  heat,  although  they  will  grow  if  planted  in  the 
open  in  April  or  May,  but  the  plants  will  make  much  less 
growth  the  first  season.  Some  varieties  do  not  strike  quickly 
without  bottom  heat.  When  the  variety  is  scarce,  shorter 
and  slenderer  pieces  of  root  may  be  used,  but  these  demand 
bottom  heat.  The  heat  in  the  frames  is  usually  supplied  by 
manure,  or  the  heat  of  the  sun  under  the  glass  may  be  suffi- 
cient. In  these  frames  the  cuttings  can  be  started  in  the 
north  late  in  March,  or  some  six  or  eight  weeks  before  the 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  137 

plants  can  be  set  out-doors  without  protection.  When  the 
weather  has  become  somewhat  settled,  the  plants  may  be 
planted  out,  and  by  fall  they  will  be  two  to  three  feet  high. 

Black  Boy.     See  Xanthorrhcea. 

Bladder-nut  Tree.     See  Staphylea. 

Bladder-pod  or  -seed.     See  Vesicaria. 

Bladder  Senna.     See  Colutea. 

Blakea.     Melastomacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  taken  from  shoots  that  are  about 
ripe  ;  plant  in  a  pot  of  sand,  and  plunge  in  a  moist  heat, 
under  a  hand-glass. 

Blandfordia.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  offsets,  or  by  division  of  the  old 
plants,  which  must  be  done  when  repotting. 

Blazing  Star.     See  Liatris. 

Bleeding  Heart.     See  Dicentra. 

Blephilia.     Labiatce. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  roots  in  early  spring. 

Bletia.      Orchidece. 

Propagated  by  divisions,  which  should  be  made  after  the 
plants  have  finished  flowering,  or  previous  to  their  starting 
into  growth.  These  are  terrestrial,  and  their  flat,  roundish 
pseudo-bulbs  are  usually  under  ground.  They  bear  division 
well,  especially  B.  hyacinthina,  which  may  be  cut  up  into 
pieces  consisting  of  a  single  pseudo-bulb.  (See  under  Or- 
chids.) 

Blood  Flower.     See  Haemanthus. 

Blood-root.     See  Sanguinaria  and  Haemodorum. 

Blueberry.     See  Vaccinium. 

Blue-eyed  Grass.     See  Sisyrinchium. 

Blumenbachia.     Loasece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  pots  in  spring,  and  placed  in 
a  gentle  heat. 

Blumia.     See  Saurauja. 

Bobartia.     Iridece. 

Propagated  by  separating  the  offsets  during  autumn. 

Bocconia.     Papaveracece . 

Some  species  grow  well  from  seed.  By  young  suckers, 
taken  from  established  plants  during  summer.  Cuttings 


I38  THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 

taken  from  the  axils  of  the  large  leaves  during  early  summer 
push  freely,  so  that  they  will  have  plenty  of  roots  before 
winter  sets  in.  Root  cuttings  of  B.  cordata  strike  freely. 

Boebera.     Composite. 

Increased  by  cuttings  made  of  young,  rather  firm  shoots, 
and  placed  in  sand,  under  a  glass. 

Bcehmeria.     Urticacece. 

Increased  by  divisions. 
Boleum.     'Cruciferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  a  pot  in  spring,  placed  in  a 
frame  or  in  the  open  border  during  summer. 

Boltonia.     Compositce. 

Increased  by  divisions  of  the  root  in  March. 
Bomarea.     Amaryllidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  a  warm  house. 
Also  increased  by  careful  division  of  the  underground  stem. 
In  making  a  division  it  is  necessary  to  observe  that  the  part 
taken  has  some  roots  by  which  to  live  till  new  ones  are 
formed. 
Bombax  (Silk  Cotton  Tree).  Malvaceae. 

Plants  raised  from  seeds  brought  from  their  native  habi- 
tats make  the  best  trees.  Increased  by  cuttings,  which  will 
root  readily  if  not  too  ripe.  They  should  be  taken  off  at  a 
joint,  and  placed  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass,  in  moist  heat. 

Bonapartea.  See  Tillandsia. 
Bonjeania.  See  Dorycnium. 
Bonnaya.  Scrophularinecc. 

The  annual  species  by  seeds,  the  others  by  divisions  and 
cuttings. 

Bonnetia.      Ternstroemiacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  firm,  young  shoots  inserted  in 
sand,  under  a  hand-glass,  in  a  moderate  heat. 

BoragO.     Boraginece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  from  spring  or  autumn  in  any 
good  garden  soil.  Also  by  divisions  in  spring,  or  by  striking 
cuttings  in  a  cold-frame. 

Borassus.     Palmece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  strong  bottom  heat. 


THE   NURSERY  LIST. 


139 


Borbonai.     Leguminosce 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  spring.  They  should  be  half- 
ripened,  and  placed  in  a  sandy  soil  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a 
cool  house. 

Boronia.     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  seed.  By  young  cuttings,  or  those  made  from 
half-ripened  wood.  Place  these  in  a  thoroughly  drained  pot 
of  sandy  soil,  with  one  inch  of  sand  on  the  surface,  and  cover 
with  a  bell-glass  ;  remove  frequently  and  wipe  dry. 

Borreria.     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings.  Those  of  the  perennial  kinds 
strike  root  readily  in  a  light  soil,  in  heat.  The  annual  kinds 
require  a  similar  treatment  to  other  tender  annuals. 

Bossiaea.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  on  a  slight  hot-bed  in  March.  Also 
increased  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  which  should  be  placed 
in  a  pot  of  sand  with  a  bell-glass  over  them,  in  a  cool  house. 

Boswellia  (Olibanum  Tree).     Burseracece. 

Increased  easily  by  cuttings  in  sand  under  a  glass. 
Botrychium.     See  Fern. 
Botryanthus.     See  Muscari. 
Bouchea.      Verbenacece. 

Increased  during  spring  by  cuttings,  placed  in  sand  under 
a  glass  and  in  a  gentle  heat. 

Bougainvillea.     Nyctaginece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  from  the  half-ripened  wood.  Place 
in  sandy  soil,  in  a  brisk  heat.  Also  grown  from  root  cuttings. 

Bouncing  Bet.     See  Saponaria. 
Bourbon  Palm.     See  Latania. 
Boussingaultia.     Chenopodiacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  easily  by  means  of  the  tubercles 
of  the  stem. 

Bouvardia.     Rubiacece. 

The  old  plants  should  be  cut  back,  placed  in  heat  in  a 
stove  or  pit,  and  freely  syringed,  which  will  cause  them  to 
break  freely  and  produce  a  good  supply  of  cuttings.  They 
will  root  from  any  surface  of  the  stem,  and  should  be  about 
two  inches  long.  The  cuttings  should  be  dibbled  pretty 


1 40  THE  NURSER  Y-B O OK. 

thickly  into  pots  about  five  inches  across  A  good  watering 
must  be  given  without  wetting  and  thereby  injuring  the  foli- 
age. Plunge  the  pots  in  bottom  heat  of  about  70°  or  80°,  and 
cover  with  a  bell-glass.  Keep  moist  and  shady  during  sun- 
shine, till  rooted.  They  are  also  readily  and  more  easily  in- 
creased by  root  cuttings. 

Bowiea.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  offsets. 
Bowstring  Hemp.     See  Sanseviera. 
Box  Elder.     See  Negundo. 
Box  Thorn.     See  Lycium. 
Box  Tree.     See  Buxus. 
Brachy  chiton.     Sterculiacece. 

Increased  by  young  cuttings  planted  in  sandy  soil  in  gen- 
tle heat. 
Brachycome  (Swan  River  Daisy).     Composite. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  early  spring  in  a  gentle  hot- 
bed, or  they  may  be  sown  thinly  out-doors,  late  in  spring. 

Brachylaena.     Composite. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  from  the  half-ripened  shoots,  placed 
in  a  well-drained  pot  of  sandy  soil,  under  a  bell-glass. 

Brachyrhynchos.     See  Senecio. 
Brachysema.     Leguminosce. 

By  seeds  sown  in  spring  in  heat.     By  layers.     In  summer 

by  cuttings  from  the  half-ripened  shoots,  placed  in  sandy  soil 

under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat. 

Brachy  stelma.     Asclepiadece 

Propagated  by  divisions  of  the  root,  and  by  cuttings  in 
a  sandy  soil,  in  heat. 

Bradleia.     See  Phyllanthus. 
Brahea      Palmce 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  heat. 
Brassia.     Orchidece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  plant  when  growth  has  com- 
menced.    (See  under  Orchids.) 
Bravoa.     Amaryllidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  and  by  offsets 
in  autumn. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  I4I 

Bread  Fruit.     See  Artocarpus. 
Bread  Nut.     See  Brosimum. 
Breakstone.     See  Saxifraga. 
Bredia.     Melaslomacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  from  the  ripened  shoots 
placed  in  sandy  loam,  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Brexia.     Saxifrages. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  the  leaves  of  which  should  not  be 
shortened.  Place  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat ;  or  a 
leaf  taken  off  with  a  bud  attached  will  grow. 

Briza  (Quaking  Grass).      Graminece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  spring  or  in 
autumn. 

Broccoli.     See  Cabbage. 
Brodisea,  Hookera.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  offsets,  which  should  be  left  undisturbed  with 

the  parent  bulbs  till  they  reach  a  flowering  state,  when  they 

may  be  divided  and  planted  in  autumn. 

Bromelia.     Bromeliacece. 

Some  are  propagated  by  seeds.  All  by  cuttings  inserted 
in  sand,  in  heat. 

Bromus.     Graminece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  outside  in  late  summer  or  in 
spring,  thinning  out  when  necessary. 

Brongniartia.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots,  which,  if  firm 
at  the  base,  will  root  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  cool 
house. 

Brosimum  (Bread  Nut).      Urticacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripe  wood  with  tbeir  leaves  on. 
Place  in  sand  in  moist  heat. 

Broughtonia.     Orchidece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  plant.     (See  under  Orchids.) 
Broussonetia  (Paper  Mulberry).      Urticacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  when  ripe  or  kept  till  the  fol- 
lowing spring  ;  and  by  suckers  and  cuttings  of  ripened  wood, 
inserted  in  autumn  in  a  cool  house. 


142  THE    NURSERY-BOOK. 

Browallia.     Scrophularinece. 

Seeds.    To  have  blooming  plants  by  holidays  they  are  prop- 
agated by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  or  summer  in  pans  or  pots  of 
light,  rich,  sandy  soil,  and  kept  in  a  close  frame  or  hand- 
light,  where  they  can  be  shaded  till  germination  takes  place. 
Brownea.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  cuttings  from  the  ripened  wood ;  place  in 
sand  under  a  hand-glass,  in  moist  heat. 
Brownlowia.     Tiliacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  made  from  ripe  shoots ;  place  in 
sand,  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 
Brucea.      Simarubece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  from  ripened  wood,  which  will  root 
freely  in  a  pot  of  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  in  moderate  heat. 
Brugmansia.     See  Datura. 
Brunfelsia,  Franc iscea.     Scrophularinece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand  under  a  bell-glas: 
in  moderate  heat       When  rooted,  place  in  pots  with  a  com- 
post of  loam,  leaf-soil,  peat  and  sand. 
Brunia.     Bruniacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots,  which  root  freely 
in  sand  under  a  hand-light  in  summer. 
Brunonia.     Goodenoviece. 

Propagated  by  divisions  in  early  spring  before  repotting. 
Brussels  Sprouts.     See  Cabbage. 
Brunsvigia.     Amaryllidece. 

Increased  by  offsets  of  considerable  size.  They  should  be 
potted  carefully  in  a  mixture  of  sandy  loam  and  peat,  with 
good  drainage,  and  kept  tolerably  warm  and  close  until  es- 
tablished ;  water  sparingly  until  root  action  has  commenced. 
The  best  place  for  growing  the  offsets  into  a  flowering  size  is 
on  a  shelf  near  the  glass,  in  a  temperature  of  from  50°  to  55°. 
Brya.  Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  cuttings  placed  in  a  hot-bed. 
Bryonia.     Cucurbitacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  of  the  tuber. 
Bryophyllum.     Crassulacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  ;  or  by  simply  laying  the  leaf  on 
moist  sand,  and  at  each  indentation  upon  the  margin  a  plant- 
let  will  appear. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  143 

Bucco.     See  Agathosma. 
Buceras.     See  Terminalia. 
Bucida.     See  Terminalia. 
Buckbean.     See  Menyanthes. 
Buckeye.     See  yEsculus. 
Bucklandia.     Hamamelidece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots  placed  in  sandy 

loam  under  a  hand-glass,  in  moderate  heat.    Water  carefully, 

for  they  are  liable  to  rot  off. 

Buckthorn.     See  Rhamnus. 

Buckwheat   (Fagopyrum  esculentum  and    Tartaricuni).     Polyg- 

onacece. 
Propagated  by  seeds. 

Buffalo     erry.     See  Shepherdia. 
Bugle.     See  Ajuga. 
Bugle  Lily.     See  Watsonia. 
Bugwort.     See  Cimicifuga. 
Bulbine      Liliacece. 

Increased — the  bulbous  rooted  species  by  offsets,  and  the 
herbaceous  sorts  by  suckers  and  divisions.  Also  by  cuttings. 

Bulbocodium.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  offsets  in  a  rich,  sandy  loam.  Take  up  the 
bulbs,  divide  and  replant  them  every  second  year,  handling 
in  autumn  and  renewing  the  soil  or  planting  in  new  positions. 

Bulbophyllum,    Anisopetalum,    Bolbophyllum,    Tribrachium. 

Orchidece. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  pseudo-bulbs. 
Bulbospermum.     See  Peliosanthes. 
Bullrush.     See  Typha  and  Juncus 
Bumalda.     See  Staphylea. 
Bunchosia.     Malpighiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots,  placed  in  sand 
under  a  bell-glass,  in  moist  bottom  heat.  Good  drainage  is 
essential. 

Buphthalmum  (Ox-eye).     Compositce. 

Propagated  in  spring  or  autumn  by  divisions. 


1 44  THE  NURSER  Y-BOOK. 

Bupleurum  (Hare's  Ear).      Umbelliferce. 

The  annuals  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  out-doors  ;  the  her- 
baceous perennials  may  be  increased  by  divisions  made  in 
autumn  or  spring,  and  the  greenhouse  species  by  cuttings 
made  in  spring. 

Burchardia.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  offsets  or  divisions  made  just  previous  to 
potting  in  spring.  It  is  best  to  repot  annually.  Good  drain- 
age should  be  allowed,  and  the  plant  must  not  be  potted  too 
firmly. 

Burchellia.     Rubiacea. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  not  too  ripe,  planted  in  sand  and 
placed  under  a  hand-glass,  in  a  gentle  heat. 

Burgsdorffia.     See  Sideritis. 
Burlingtonia.     Orchidece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  plant.      (See  under  Orchids. ) 
Burnet.     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  division. 
Burning  Bush.     See  Euonymus. 
Bursaria.     Pittosporece. 

Increased  by  young  cuttings  put  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass, 
with  a  little  bottom  heat. 

Bursera.     Burseracece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  placed  under  a  bell-glass,  with 
bottom  heat. 

Burtonia.     Leguminosce. 

Some  of  the  species  produce  seed  in  abundance,  and  these 
form  the  best  means  of  increase.  By  young  cuttings,  which 
root  freely  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cool  house,  with  a  bell-glass 
over  them. 

Butcher's  Broom.     See  Ruscus. 
Butomus  (Flowering  Rush).     Alismacea. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  of  the  roots  in  spring. 
Buttercup.     See  Ranunculus. 
Butternut.     See  Juglans. 
Butterwort.     See  Pinguicula. 
Button-wood.     See  Platanus. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  145 

Buxus  (Box  Tree).     Euphorbiacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  any  light, 
well-drained  soil.  They  can  be  increased  by  suckers  and 
divisions  ;  by  layers  of  young  or  old  wood,  made  in  autumn 
or  early  spring  ;  by  cuttings  made  of  the  young  shoots,  from 
four  to  six  inches  in  length,  in  a  sandy  place  in  spring  or 
fall.  The  latter  method  is  the  better  way  in  this  country,  and 
in  the  north  the  cuttings  should  be  handled  under  glass. 

Byrsonima.     Malpighiacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  sand  under 
a  hand-glass,  in  moist  bottom  heat. 

Cabbage  {Brassica  oleracea,  and  vars.).      Cruciferce. 

Seeds.  They  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  in  spring, 
or  in  the  fall  and  the  young  plants  wintered  in  a  cold-frame, 
or  in  a  hot-bed  or  forcing  house  in  late  winter  and  spring. 
Brussels  sprouts,  broccoli  and  cauliflower  are  treated  in  the 
same  manner. 

Cabbage  Palm.     See  Areca. 

Cabomba.     Nymphceacece. 

Propagated  by  root  divisions. 

Cacalia.     See  Senecio. 

Cacao.     See  Theobroma. 

Cactus.      Cactece. 

Propagation  by  seeds  is  not  often  adopted,  as  it  is  a  very 
slow  method.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  very  sandy  soil, 
and  placed  in  a  semi-shady  position  until  germination  com- 
mences, when  they  may  be  exposed  and  very  carefully 
watered.  Usually  propagated  by  cuttings  or  offsets,  which 
should  be  made  with  a  sharp  cut,  and  laid  upon  a  sunny 
shelf  or  on  dry  sand  until  the  wound  is  healed  and  roots  em- 
itted, when  they  should  be  potted  in  sandy  soil.  Place  with 
the  others,  and  keep  syringed.  Grafting  is  resorted  to  with 
weak  kinds,  which  will  not  grow  freely  except  upon  the  stock 
of  a  stronger  species ;  and  by  this  means,  also,  such  kinds 
can  be  kept  from  the  damp  soil,  .which  frequently  causes  de- 
cay. The  stocks  usually  employed  are  those  of  Cereus  tor- 
tuosus,  C.  peru-vianus,  Pereskia  aculeata,  etc.,  according  to  the 
species  intended  for  working ;  they  readily  unite  with  each 
other.  If  the  scion  and  stock  are  both  slender,  cleft-graft- 
ing should  be  adopted  ;  if  both  are  broad  it  is  best  to  make 
horizontal  sections,  placing  them  together  and  securing  in 
proper  position  by  tying  with  matting,  but  not  too  tightly,  or 
the  surface  may  be  injured. 


146  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Caesalpinia.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  cuttings,   which    are  somewhat  difficult  to 
root,  but  may  succeed  if  taken  from  the  plant  in  a  growing 
state  and  planted  in  sand  with  a  hand-glass  over  them,  in 
heat. 
Cajanus.     Leguminosce. 

Plants  are  usually  raised  from  seeds  obtained  from  the 
West  Indian  Islands  and  India.  Also  grown  from  young 
cuttings,  put  in  sand  with  a  hand-glass  over  them,  in  heat. 

Cakile  (Sea  Rocket).      Cruciferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring. 
Caladium.     Aroidece. 

Increased  by  tubers,  which  have  been  kept  dry  or  rested 
for  some  time.  Place  in  small  pots  in  a  stove  or  pit,  where 
the  night  temperature  is  maintained  from  60°  to  65°,  and 
syringed  daily  once  or  twice  at  least.  Large  tubers,  if  sound, 
may  be  divided  and  the  pieces  potted.  Some  also  by  cuttings. 

Calamagrostis.     Graminea:. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn  or  spring.  C.  arenaria 
(now  Ammophiln  arundinacea],  used  for  holding  sands  along 
sea-shores,  is  propagated  by  division  and  can  probably  be 
handled  easily  by  root-cuttings 

Calamintha.     Labiatce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  root  divisions,  or  cuttings  in  spring. 
Calamus.     Palmece. 

Increased  by  seeds. 
Calandrinia.     Portulacacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  pots  where  they  are  intended 
to  flower,  as  transplantation,  unless  performed  with  more 
than  ordinary  care,  will  check  their  growth  or  result  in  loss. 

Calanthe.     Orchidece. 

As  a  rule,  the  natural  annual  increase  in  the  number  of 
pseudo-bulbs  meets  the  requirements  of  most  cultivators. 
Where  a  quick  propagation  is  desired,  it  may  be  performed 
by  dividing  the  pseudo-bulbs  transversely  ;  after  allowing 
the  raw  surface  to  callus,  the  upper  part  should  be  set  on 
moist  sand,  and  several  buds  will  form  around  the  base. 
The  bottom  portion  may  be  used  in  the  ordinary  way. 
Another  plan  is  to  divide  the  pseudo-bulbs  lengthwise  into 
two  or  more  pieces.  (See  under  Orchids.) 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  147 

Calathea.     Scitaminece. 

Increased  by  division  in  summer  or  any  time  between  that 
and  the  spring  months.  When  making  divisions,  see  that 
each  crown  is  well  furnished  with  roots. 

Calceolaria  (Slipperwort).      Scrophularinece. 

Herbaceous  kinds  increased  by  seeds  sown  from  June  to 
August  on  pans  of  light,  sandy  soil,  which  should  be  soaked 
with  water  before  sowing.  Care  must  be  taken  to  make  the 
surface  of  the  soil  level,  and  also  to  sow  the  seed  as  evenly 
as  possible.  It  is  better  not  to  cover  with  soil,  but  a  sheet 
of  glass  should  be  laid  over  the  pan,  which  must  be  placed 
in  a  shady  part  of  the  greenhouse  or  cold-frame  until  the 
young  plants  show  the  first  leaf.  The  glass  can  then  be 
gradually  removed.  The  shrubby  kinds,  by  seeds  and  by  cut- 
tings in  August.  Place  in  a  cold-frame  facing  the  north,  in 
sandy  soil,  and  when  rooted,  pot  off  into  3-inch  pots.  Place 
in  a  light,  sunny  frame,  where  they  may  remain  until  the 
middle  of  February. 

Caldcluvia.      Saxifragece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  shoots  planted 
in  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  and  placed  in  a  very  gentle  bot- 
tom heat. 

Calectasia.    'Juncacece. 
Propagated  by  divisions. 

Calendula  (Marigold).      Composite. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings,  which  thrive  well  in  a 
compost  of  loam  and  peat. 

Caliphruria.     Amaryllidece. 

Propagated  by  bulbels.  After  flowering,  the  plants  should 
have  a  slight  heat,  and  when  starting  into  new  growth  should 
be  repotted. 

Calliandra.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  rather  firm  young  wood,  in  sand 
under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Calla.     See  Richardia, 

Callicarpa,  Porphyra  (French  Mulberry).      Verbenacea. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions  or  by  cuttings  of  the  young 
shoots,  with  the  same  treatment  as  Fuchsia. 


148  THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 

Callichroa.     Composite?. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  in  a  slight  hot-bed,  and 
placed  in  the  open  border  later ;  or  if  sown  out-doors  it  will 
still  flower  in  the  autumn. 

Callicoma.     Saxifrages. 

Propagated  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  placed  in  sandy  soil 
under  a  hand-glass. 

Calligonum,  Pallasia,  Pterococcus.     Polygonacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  spring  or  autumn 
if  placed  under  a  hand-glass. 

Calliprora.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  offsets,  which  should  not  be  removed  from 
the  parent  bulbs  until  they  are  of  good  size. 

Callipsyche.     Amaryllidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  bulbels. 
Callirhoe  (Poppy-Mallow).     Malvaceae. 

Perennials  by  seeds,  divisions  of  roots,  and  cuttings  ;  the 
annuals  by  seeds  only.     Cuttings  should  be  started  in  sandy 
soil  in  a  frame. 
Calliopsis.     See  Coreopsis. 
Callistachys.     See  Oxylobium. 
Callistemon.     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  ripened  cuttings  in  sand  under 
a  glass. 

Callistephus,  Callistemma  (China  Aster).     Composite 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  under  cover 
in  spring,  or  seeds  for  late  plants  may  be  sown  in  the  open. 

Callitris,  Frenela.      Coniferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  inserted  under  a  hand- 
light  in  autumn,  and  wintered  in  a  cold  pit. 

Calluna  (Heather).     Ericaceae. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  tender  shoots  inserted  in 
pure  sand  under  glass  in  a  cool  house  in  autumn 

Calochortus  (Mariposa  Lily).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  offsets,  and  by  the  tiny  bulblets  on  the 
upper  portion  of  the  stem.  Sow  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe,  or 
early  in  the  year,  thinly  in  pans,  so  that  the  young  plants 
may  pass  a  second  season  in  the  seed  pots  on  pans.  Place 


THE  .\URSERY  LIST.  149 

in  a  cool  house  or  frame,  and  keep  the  plants  close  to  the 
glass  during  their  early  stages,  as  they  are  very  liable  to 
damp  off.  Early  the  third  season  pot  off  and  plant  singly, 
encouraging  them  to  grow  freely.  The  offsets  are  best  re- 
moved when  the  plants  are  in  a  dormant  state,  placed  in  pots 
or  pans,  or  planted  out  in  pits  or  frames  until  they  reach 
flowering  s«ze. 
Calodendron.  Rutacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  placed  in  sand 
under  a  glass,  in  gentle  bottom  heat. 
Calophaca.     Leguminosa. 

Propagated  by  seeds.      May  be  grafted  on  the  common 
laburnum. 
Calophanes.     Acanthacece. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  roots  in  spring  or  fall. 
Calophyllum.     Gtittifera. 

Increased  by  cuttings  made  from  the  half-ripened  shoots, 
which  root  freely  in  sand,  if  placed  under  a  glass  in  bottom 
heat. 
Calopogon.      Orchidece. 

Increased  by  offsets  taken  from  the  tuberous  roots. 
Calothamnus.     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  young  wood,  firm  at  the  base. 
Place  in  sand  and  cover  with  a  hand-glass. 
Calotis.     Compost  tee. 

Increased  by  divisions  of  the  root. 
Calotropis.     Asclepiadece. 

Propagated  by  young  cuttings  thinly  dibbled  in  a  pot  of 
sand,  placed  under  a  hand-glass  in  heat.  They  must  not  re- 
ceive too  much  moisture,  or  they  will  rot. 

Caltha  (Marsh  Marigold).     Ranunculacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  by  dividing 
the  roots  in  early  spring,  or  in  summer  after  flowering. 

Calycanthus  (Sweet-scented  Shrub  Allspice).      Calycanlhacece. 
Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  cold-frame  ;   by  divisions  or 
offsets,  and  by  layers  put  down  in  summer. 

Calycophyllum.     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripe  shoots,  which  will  root 
in  sand,  if  placed  under  a  bell-glass,  in  bottom  heat. 


150  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Calypso.      Orchidece. 

Increased  by  offsets. 
Calyptranthes.     Myrtacetc. 

Propagated  by  layers,  or  by  cuttings  placed  in  heat. 
Calystegia  (Hedge  Bindweed,  Bearbind).      Convolvulacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  or  by  dividing  the 
plants. 

Calythrix.     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  placed  in  sand, 
under  a  bell-glass  in  a  cool  house,  in  late  spring. 

Camassia,  Sitocodium.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  a  warm  situation  out-doors, 
or  in  pots  or  boxes  under  glass.  The  young  plants  should 
remain  at  least  two  years  in  the  seed  beds.  Also  increased 
by  offsets,  which  are  produced  very  freely,  and  should  be  re- 
moved either  when  in  a  dormant  condition,  or  just  previously 
to  starting  into  fresh  growth,  and  arranged  in  clumps  or  lines, 
placing  a  little  sand  about  them. 

Cambessedesia.    Melastomacece. 

Propagated  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  which  root  freely  in 
a  mixture  of  peat  and  sand,  if  placed  under  a  glass,  in  heat. 

Camellia,  including  Thea  (Japanese  Rose).  Ternstrcemiacece. 
The  single  red  camellia  by  either  seeds,  layers  or  cuttings. 
Double  and  variegated  camellias  by  layers,  but  cuttings  will 
succeed.  Seeds  give  suitable  stocks  on  which  to  inarch  or  graft 
the  rarer  kinds.  The  ripened  shoots  of  the  preceding  summer 
should  be  taken  off  in  August.  Two  or  three  of  the  lower 
leaves  should  be  removed,  and  the  cuttings  planted  firmly  in 
the  soil  with  a  dibble.  The  pans  containing  the  cuttings 
should  be  kept  in  a  plant  or  cold-frame,  without  being  cov- 
ered with  glass,  but  shaded  during  bright  sunshine.  In 
the  following  spring,  such  as  have  struck  will  begin  to  push, 
when  they  need  to  be  placed  in  a  gentle  heat.  Inarching 
or  grafting  is  done  in  early  spring,  as  soon  as  growth  com- 
mences. 

CamcBnsia .     Legummosce. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sandy  loam,  if 
placed  under  a  bell-glass. 

Camomile.     See  Anthemis. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  !5I 

Campanula  (Bell-flower,  Slipperwort).     Campanula ece. 

Increased  by  seeds.  The  perennials  are  also  propagated 
by  dividing  the  roots,  or  by  young  cuttings  in  spring. 

Campanumaea.     Companulace^. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions. 
Camphora  (Camphor-tree).     Laurinece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  and  seeds. 
Campion.     See  Silene. 
Camptopus.     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  sandy  loam  under  a  glass,  in  bot- 
tom heat. 
Canarina,  Pernettya.      Campanulacece. 

Propagated  by  divisions  when  repotted  or  by  young  cut- 
tings in  a  sandy  soil,  in  gentle  warmth. 

Candollea.     Dilleniacece. 

Increased  sometimes  by  seeds,  but  usually  by  cuttings, 
which  will  root  if  placed  under  a  hand-glass  in  a  compost  of 
equal  parts  loam  and  peat,  with  enough  sand  to  render  the 
whole  porous. 

Candytuft.     See  Iberis 

Canella.     Canellacece. 

Increased  by  well-ripened  cuttings  taken  off  at  the  joint. 
They  will  root  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  with  bottom  heat, 
in  spring  ;  but  care  should  be  taken  not  to  deprive  them  of 
any  of  their  leaves. 

Canna  (Indian  Shot).     Scitaminece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  heat  in  late  winter.  The 
seeds  are  very  hard,  and  germination  will  be  materially  stim- 
ulated if  they  are  soaked  in  tepid  water  for  twenty-four 
hours.  They  should  be  sown  thinly  in  pans  (a  mixture  of 
sand  and  leaf-loam  is  best  for  them),  and  a  covering  of  one 
and  one-half  or  two  inches  of  earth  is  not  excessive.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  sow  the  seed  singly  in  small  pots.  Also  in- 
creased by  divisions  ;  they  form  a  root-stock,  each  portion 
of  which,  with  bud  and  roots  attached,  may  be  converted 
into  an  independent  plant. 

Cannabis  (Hemp).     Urticacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring. 

Cantua,  Periphragmos.     Polemoniacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand  under  glass. 


152 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Capparis  (Caper-tree).      Capparidece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripe  shoots,  which  will  root  in 
sand  under  glass,  in  moist  heat. 

Caprifolium.     See  Lonicera. 

Caragana  (Siberian  Pea-tree).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  root  cuttings  ;  the  low-growing 
shrubs  by  seeds  and  layers.  Caraganas  are  generally  in- 
creased by  grafting  on  C.  arborescens,  which  is  easily  raised 
from  seeds,  sown  when  ripe  or  in  spring. 

Carapa.     Meliacece. 

Increased  by  ripe  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand  under 
glass,  in  a  moist  heat. 

Cardamine,  including  Pteroneurum  (Lady's  Smock).  Cruciferce. 

Seeds.     Propagated  easily  by  division  after  flowering. 
Cardinal-flower.     See  Lobelia. 
Carduncellus.     Composite?. 

Seeds.     Increased  by  divisions  of  the  roots. 
Carex  (Sedge).      Cyperacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions*  Seeds  often  lie  dor- 
mant the  first  year. 

Careya.     Myrtacece. 

Propagated  by  division,  or  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  root 
freely  if  planted  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  and  placed  in 
moist  bottom  heat. 

Carica  (Papaw-tree).     Passiflorece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripe  shoots  with  their  leaves  on. 
They  root  readily  in  a  sandy  soil,  and  in  a  gentle  bottom 
heat. 

Carissa.     Apocynacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  ripe  wood  placed  in  sand  under 
glass,  in  bottom  heat. 

Carlina.     Compositce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring.  With  difficulty  by 
divisions. 

Carmichaelia.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  side  shoots  in  sand 
under  a  glass,  in  a  cool  house  in  late  spring. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


153 


Carnation.      Caryophyllece. 

By  propagating  by  seed,  new  and  excellent  varieties  are 
raised.  Sow  the  seeds  in  April  or  May,  and  in  a  slight  hot- 
bed or  in  a  greenhouse.  Also  propagated  by  layering,  which 
should  be  done  at  the  end  of  July  or  the  beginning  of  August. 
The  shoots  selected  should  be  denuded  of  a  few  of  their  leaves 
at  the  base  of  the  young  wood,  and  a  slit  must  be  made  from 
this  point  upwards,  extending  through  a  joint  of  the  bare 
stem,  so  that  a  tongue  is  formed. 

Increased  also  by  cuttings.  It  is  necessary  to  have  a  slight 
bottom  heat,  and  on  it  put  four  or  five  inches  of  light  soil, 
covered  with  clean  sand.  The  cuttings  must  be  long  enough 
to  have  a  tolerably  firm  base,  and  they  must  either  be  taken 
with  a  heel  or  cut  off  at  a  joint,  and  firmly  inserted  in  the 
soil.  This  is  the  ordinary  method.  See  Fig.  52,  b. 

Carob,  Algaroba,   or    St.  John's   Bread      (Ceratonia  siliqua} . 

Leguminosce. 

Stocks  are  obtained  by  seeds.  The  seeds  are  often  treated 
to  scalding  water  before  sowing,  in  the  same  manner  as  lo- 
cust seeds.  Varieties  are  grafted  or  budded  on  the  seedlings, 
or  they  may  be  multiplied  by  means  of  hard-wood  cuttings 
in  frames. 

Carpinus  (Hornbeam).     Cupuliferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  vegetate  irregularly.  Varieties 
propagated  by  budding  or  grafting. 

Carpodinus.     Apocynacece. 

Propagated  easily  from  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots. 
Carrion  Flower.     See  Stapelia. 
Carthamus  (Safflower).     Composite . 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  gentle  heat  in  spring. 
Carya.     See  Hickoria. 
Caryocar,  Rhizobolus  (Butternut).      Ternstrcemiacece. 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand 
in  heat. 

Caryophyllus  (Clove-tree).     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots  with  the  leaves  left 
on.  These  will  root  if  planted  in  sand  in  a  moist  heat. 

Caryopteris.      Verbenacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  divisions,  or  by  cuttings. 


I54  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Caryota.     Palme  ce. 

Increased  easily  by  seeds  or  by  suckers. 
Cashew,     See  Anacardium. 
Casimiroa.     Rutacece. 

Increased  readily  by  seeds. 
Cassandra  (Leather  Leaf).     Ericacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  very  carefully  sown,  or  by  layers. 
Cassava  (Manihot  Aipe).     Euphorbiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  stem  and  by  suckers.  Cut 
the  large  main  stalks  into  pieces  from  four  to  six  inches  long 
and  set  them  perpendicularly  into  the  ground  in  the  field. 
The  cuttings  can  be  struck  at  various  times,  but  spring  is  usu- 
ally preferred.  The  stalks  can  be  kept  over  winter  by  cov- 
ering with  sand  on  a  dry  knoll,  placing  the  stalks  and  sand 
in  layers.  Cover  the  whole  with  boards  to  shed  the  water. 
Suckers  which  appear  during  summer  can  be  removed  and 
planted  or  made  into  cuttings. 

Cassia.     Leguminosce. 

Annuals  and  biennials  by  seeds,  which  must  be  sown  in 
spring,  in  a  gentle  heat.  The  shrubby  species  by  cuttings  of 
half-ripened  shoots,  which  will  root  in  heat  at  about  the  same 
time  of  the  year.  C.  Marylandica  also  by  division. 

Cassine.     Celastrinece. 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  readily  strike  root 
if  planted  in  a  pot  of  sand  with  glass  over  them. 

Cassinia.     Composites . 

Annuals  by  seeds.  The  herbaceous  and  shrubby  kinds 
are  increased  in  spring  by  dividing  the  roots,  or  by  cuttings 
of  half-ripened  shoots  placed  in  sand. 

Castalia.     See  Nymphaea. 
Castor  Bean.     See  Ricinus. 
Casuarina  (Beef wood).      Casuarinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  made  of  half-ripened 
shoots,  placed  in  sand  under  glass. 

Catalpa.     Bignoniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  made  of  the  ripe  wood. 
The  named  varieties  and  C.  Bungei  are  propagated  by  soft 
cuttings  in  June  and  July.  Grafts  are  also  used. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  I5g 

Catananche.     Composite?. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  spring.  Also 
by  division. 

Catchfly.     See  Silene. 

Catesbaea  (Lily  Thorn).     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  planted  in  sand  in  spring,  and 
plunged  in  heat. 

Catmint.     See  Nepeta. 

Catnip  or  Catmint  (Nepeta  Catarid],     Labiatce. 

Seeds.     Division. 
Cat's  Tail.     See  Typha. 
Cattleya.     Orchidece. 

Increased  by  the  pseudo-bulbs.     (See  under  Orchids.) 
Cauliflower.     See  Cabbage. 
Caulophyllum.     Berberidece. 

Propagated  by  divisions  of  the  roots,  made  in  early  spring 
or  after  flowering.  Also  by  seeds. 

Ceanothus.     Rhamnece. 

Increased  by  layers,  which  is  the  readiest  way  of  obtain- 
ing strong  plants,  or  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  inserted 
in  a  cold-frame. 

Cecropia  (Snake  Wood).      Urticaceae. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots.  Place  in  sandy 
peat  in  a  moist  bottom  heat. 

Cedar.     See  Cedrus. 

Cedrela  (Bastard  Cedar).     Miliacece. 

Increased  by  large  ripened  cuttings,  placed  in  sand,  in 
heat. 

Cedronella.     Labiatce. 

The  herbaceous  species  by  division  of  the  roots  or  by  cut- 
tings of  young  wood.  C.  triphylla  by  cuttings. 

Cedrus  (Cedar).      Conifer ce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  are  difficult  to  extract  from  the 
cones.  Gather  the  cones  in  spring,  and  sow  the  seeds  immed- 
iately in  pans.  Varieties  are  propagated  by  veneer  grafts. 

Celastrus  (Staff-tree,  Bitter-sweet).     Celastrinece . 

Propagated    by  seeds  and   suckers,   also  by  layering  the 


I56 


THE  NURSERY-BOCK. 


hardy  species  in  autumn.      Ripened  cuttings  will  root  freely 
in  a  compost  of  loam,  peat  and  sand. 

Celery.  (Apium  graveolens].      Umbelliferce. 

By  seeds,  as  described  on  page  12  ;  or,  for  the  early  crop, 
sow  under  glass,  as  in  a  hot-bed. 

Celosia  (Cockscomb).     Amaranlacece. 

Propagated  by  seed  sown  in  spring,  in  pans  of  well-drained, 
rich,  sandy  soil  or  in  the  open. 

Celsia.     Scrophularinece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  the  open  bor- 
der and  thinned  out  for  flowering,  or  raised  in  nursery  beds 
and  transplanted.  C.  Arcturus  should  be  increased  by  cut- 
tings, the  young  wood  striking  freely  in  a  cool  house  or 
frame. 
Celtis  (Nettle-tree).  Urticacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe. 
By  layers,  and  by  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots  in  autumn. 

Centaurea.     Composite. 

Annuals  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  the  open  border. 
To  propagate  C.    Cineraria,  and  some  others  sow  seeds  in 
August  in  slight  heat,  or  make  cuttings  about  the  beginning 
of  September. 
Centranthus.      Valerianece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring. 
Centronia.    Melastomacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots,  which 
should  be  inserted  in  peat  and  sand,  under  glass. 

Centropogon.     Campanulacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  by  divisions  and  by  cuttings  from  any 
young  shoots  three  or  four  inches  long.  Take  off  with  a 
heel  and  place  in  sharp  sandy  soil,  close  around  the  edge  of 
the  pot,  and  then  keep  close  under  a  propagating  box,  in  a 
temperature  ranging  between  60°  and  70°. 

Cephaelis.    Rubiacce. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  firm  young  shoots,  which  will  root 
well  in  sandy  soil  under  a  hand-glass,  in  moist  stove  heat. 

Cephalanthus  (Button-wood).     Rubiacca?. 

Seeds.  Propagated  by  layers  or  ripened  cuttings  in  au- 
tumn. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  157 

Cephalotus.     Saxifragece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  before  new  growth 
commences.  Also  by  offsets. 

Cerastium.      Caryophyllece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions,  or  by  cuttings  inserted 
in  the  open  ground  in  a  shady  place,  after  flowering. 

Ceratiola.     Empelracece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  placed 
in  sandy  soil  under  glass. 
Ceratonia  (Algaroba  Bean,  Carob  Tree).     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  root  if  planted 
in  sand  under  a  frame. 

Ceratozamia.     Cycadacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  sometimes  by  suckers  and  divis- 
ions ;  but  imported  plants  give  most  satisfaction. 

Cercidiphyllum.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  tender  cuttings  made  during  the  summer, 
and  slightly  wilted  before  placing  in  the  frames. 

Cercis  (Judas-tree).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  about  the  end  of  March  on  a 
bed  of  light  soil,  in  a  gentle  heat.  They  may  also  be  in- 
creased by  layers,  but  plants  raised  from  seeds  thrive  best. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  stratify  the  seeds.  C.  Japonica  is  grown 
from  soft  cuttings  in  early  summer. 

Cereus.     See  Cactus. 

Ceropegia.     Asclepiadece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  small  side  shoots  made  in  spring, 
which  will  root  in  sand,  in  heat,  with  or  without  a  glass  cov- 
ering. 

Cestrum,  including  Habrothamnus.     Solanacea. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  August,  the  same  being  potted 
off  as  frequentiy  as  the  roots  reach  the  sides  of  the  pots. 

Chaenostoma.     Scrophularinece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  may  be  made  in  autumn  and 
placed  in  a  greenhouse  or  cold  pit  during  the  winter. 

Chaetogastra.     Melastomacea:. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  March,  or  the  perennials  by 
cuttings  in  sandy  peat. 


158 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Chamaebatia.     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  struck  in  sand  in 
a  cold-frame. 

Chamsecyparis.     Conifer  ce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  freely,  also  by  layers,  but  mainly  by 
cuttings  put  in  during  October.  Select  young  side  shoots 
with  a  heel  ;  insert  in  well-drained  pots  of  sandy  soil,  and 
place  in  a  close  cold-frame,  keeping  fairly  moist  through  the 
winter.  In  February  they  should  be  calloused,  and  should 
be  placed  in  gentle  heat,  where  they  will  root  freely. 

Chamaeranthemum.    Acanthacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots,  which  will  root 
in  spring  if  planted  in  sand  and  placed  in  heat. 

Chamaerops,  including  Corypha,  Taliera.     Palmce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  suckers,  which  generally  appear 
in  considerable  quantities. 

Chard.     See  Beet. 

Cheilanthes.     See  Fern. 

Chelone  (Turtle  Head).      Scrophularinece. 

They  may  be  increased  by  means  of  seeds.  Also  by  divid- 
ing the  plant  during  fall.  Young  cuttings  inserted  in  sandy 
soil  in  a  cold-frame  grow  well. 

Cherry  (Prunus  Avium  and  P.  Cerasus}.      Rosarece, 

Cherry  stocks  are  commonly  grown  from  seeds.  If  the 
ground  is  in  readiness  and  is  in  proper  condition,  the  seeds 
may  be  planted  in  fall,  or  even  as  soon  as  they  are  ripe.  If 
stored  until  spring,  they  must  be  stratified  and  kept  very 
cool  to  prevent  germination,  and  they  should  be  sown  at  the 
earliest  possible  moment.  They  do  not  need  to  be  cracked 
by  hand.  Care  must  be  taken  that  cherry  pits  do  not  be- 
come hard  and  dry.  This  precaution  is  more  important  with 
cherries  than  with  peaches  and  plums.  At  the  close  of  the 
first  season  the  seedlings  will  be  a  foot  or  foot  and  a-half 
high,  large  enough  to  transplant  into  nursery  rows  after  the 
manner  of  apples,  where  they  are  budded  the  following  sea- 
son. In  warm  climates  the  pits  are  sometimes  cracked  as 
soon  as  they  are  gathered,  and  the  "  meats"  planted  immed- 
iately. They  will  then  make  stocks  fit  for  grafting  the  fol- 
lowing winter,  or  for  transplanting  and  budding  the  follow- 
ing summer.  Cherry  seeds  must  never  be  allowed  to  become 
so  dry  that  the  meat  is  hard  and  brittle. 


THE   NURSERY  LIST. 


159 


Cherries,  in  common  with  other  stone  fruits,  grow  readily 
from  root  cuttings,  in  the  same  manner  as  blackberries. 
They  do  better  if  started  over  a  gentle  heat. 

The  Mazzard  cherry  is  the  stock  upon  which  cherries  are 
nearly  always  worked.  It  is  simply  a  hardy  and  vigorous 
variety,  with  inferior  fruit,  of  the  common  sweet  cherry 
(Prunus  Aviuni).  Seeds  of  this  are  readily  procured  in  this 
country.  All  varieties  of  cherries  are  worked  readily  upon 
it.  The  Mahaleb  cherry  is  used  as  a  stock  for  nearly  all  va- 
rieties when  dwarf  trees  are  desired.  This  is  a  distinct  spe- 
cies, Prunus  Mahaleb.  The  seeds  or  stocks  are  usually  im- 
ported. This  stock  is  adapted  to  heavy  clay  soils,  while  the 
Mazzard  is  not.  The  Mahaleb  is  not  generally  used  in  this 
country. 

Morello  {Prunus  Cerasus)  stocks  will  no  doubt  prove  to  be 
valuable  in  the  northwest,  where  great  hardiness  is  demand- 
ed. Seedlings  do  not  sprout  or  sucker  badly,  but  the  natural 
suckers,  which  are  sometimes  used  for  stocks,  are  likely  to 
be  more  troublesome  in  this  respect.  If  strong-growing  tops 
are  worked  on  Morello  stocks,  however,  there  is  usually  little 
annoyance  from  suckering. 

It  is  probable  that  some  of  the  native  American  cherries 
can  be  used  as  stocks.  The  common  wild  red,  pin  or  bird 
cherry  (Prumis  Pennsylvanica}  has  already  been  used  to  some 
extent.  The  sweet  and  sour  cherries  unite  readily  with  it, 
and  bear  very  early.  It  is  yet  to  be  determined  how  long 
the  trees  will  persist,  but  there  are  trees  known  which  are 
sixteen  or  eighteen  years  old,  and  which  are  still  healthy  and 
vigorous.  The  dwarf  or  sand  cherry  (Prunus  pumi la},  espec- 
ially the  western  form  of  it,  gives  promise  as  a  dwarf  stock. 

Cherry  stocks  are  worked  both  by  budding  and  grafting. 
Budding  is  the  common  method.  The  stocks  should  be  fit 
to  work  the  season  they  are  transplanted,  or  in  the  second 
summer  from  seed.  Such  as  are  too  small  for  working  then 
may  be  allowed  to  stand  until  the  following  year. 

In  the  west,  where  great  hardiness  is  required,  the  varie- 
ties are  crown-grafted  upon  Mazzard  stocks  in  winter.  Year- 
ling stocks  are  used,  and  the  cions  are  from  six  to  ten  inches 
long.  When  planted,  only  the  top  bud  should  be  left  above 
ground.  The  cion  strikes  roots,  and  own-rooted  trees  are 
obtained. 

The  ornamental  cherries  are  worked  upon  the  same  stocks 
as  the  fruit^bearing  sorts.  Mazzard  is  commonly  used  for 
all  species. 


!6o  THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 

Chervil  (Cheer ophy Hum  bulbosum  and  Scandix  Cerefolium).     Um- 

bellifercc. 

Seeds,  sown  much  the  same  as  celery  seeds,  but  the  plants 
are  usually  allowed   to  stand  where  sown.      Seed  is  often 
sown  in  autumn. 
Chestnut    (Castanea  sativa  and  var.  Americana,  and  C.  Japon- 

ica).      Cupuliferce. 

Chestnut  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds.  Difficulty  is  some- 
times experienced  in  keeping  the  seeds,  as  they  lose  their 
vitality  if  dried  too  hard,  and  are  likely  to  become  mouldy 
if  allowed  to  remain  moist.  The  surest  way  is  to  allow  the 
nuts  to  become  well  dried  off  or  "  seasoned ."  in  the  fall,  and 
then  stratify  them  in  a  box  with  three  or  four  times  as  much 
sand  as  chestnuts,  and  bury  the  box  a  foot  or  two  deep  in 
a  warm  soil  until  spring.  They  do  not  always  keep  well  if 
stored  or  stratified  in  a  cellar.  Fall  planting  exposes  the 
nuts  to  squirrels  and  mice.  American  stocks  are  probably 
better  than  European. 

The  stocks  are  worked  by  whip-grafting  above  ground,  the 
wound  being  well  tied  and  protected  by  waxed  cloth.  Care 
should  be  taken  to  have  the  stock  and  cion  about  the  same 
size,  in  order  to  secure  a  good  union.  Crown-grafting,  root- 
grafting  and  budding  have  not  been  very  successful  in  this 
country  upon  the  chestnut.  The  cions  should  be  cut  early, 
before  they  begin  to  swell,  and  kept  dormant  until  the  stock 
begins  to  push  into  leaf.  Only  vigorous  stocks  should  be 
grafted.  The  best  results  are  obtained  when  the  stocks  have 
recovered  from  transplanting,  or  when  they  are  from  three 
to  five  years  old.  The  working  of  chestnut  stocks  is  far  from 
satisfactory  in  a  commercial  way.  The  union  is  imperfect 
in  many  varieties,  and  usually  no  more  than  half  the  grafts 
take  well. 
Chicory  (Cichorium  Intybus}.  Composite^. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  grow. 
Chilopsis  (Desert  Willow).     Bignoniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots 
in  sand  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat. 
Chimonanthus.      Calycanthacece. 

Propagated  by  layering  in  the  autumn. 
China  Aster.     See  Callistephus. 
Chiococca  (Snowberry).     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  strike  root  freely  in  sand 
under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  161 

Chionanthus  (Fringe-tree).      Oleacece. 

Increased    by  seeds,  which  should    be  started  in  a  cold- 
frame.     By  layers  and  cuttings.     By  grafting  or  budding  it 
on  the  common  ash,  it  succeeds  very  well. 
Chionodoxa.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  produced  freely.      They 
should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.     By  bulbels. 
Chironia.     Gentianece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  inserted  in  sandy  soil, 
and  placed  in  a  gentle  heat  in  spring. 

Chives  or  Gives  (AlRtttn  Schcenoprasutti}.     Liliacece. 

Division  of  the  clumps. 
Chloanthes.      Verbenacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots,  which  root  freely 
in  sandy  soil  under  glass. 

Choisya.     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings. 

Chrysanthemum.     Compost  tee. 

Increased  by  seeds  to  obtain  new  varieties  ;  these  should 
be  sown  in  spring.  Division  may  be  made,  but  this  is  not 
often  practiced.  Usually  propagated  by  cuttings  of  firm, 
healthy,  short-jointed  shoots,  about  three  inches  long. 
They  should  be  made  in  spring,  and  placed  near  the  glass 
of  a  rather  close  frame  having  a  temperature  of  about 
45°.  No  bottom  heat  should  be  given.  If  inserted  in  pots, 
only  the  lower  leaf  should  be  removed  ;  if  in  beds  the  re- 
maining foliage  should  also  be  trimmed  to  admit  air.  The 
soil  should  be  made  of  equal  parts  of  sand,  leaf-mould  and 
loam,  spreading  a  layer  of  sand  over  the  top.  Insert  about 
one-half  of  the  cutting,  press  the  soil  firmly,  and  water. 
Leaf  cuttings  have  been  employed.  Inarching  and  grafting 
may  also  be  performed. 

Chrysobalanus  (Coco  Plum)      Rosacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  when  procurable.  Large  cuttings,  how- 
ever, taken  off  at  a  joint  without  shortening  any  of  their 
leaves,  will  root  readily  if  planted  thinly  in  a  pot  of  sand, 
and  placed  in  moist  heat  with  a  bell-glass  over  them. 

Chrysocoma  (Goldy-locks).      Composite. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots, 
placed  in  sand  under  glass. 


1 62  THE    NURSERY-BOOK, 

Chrysogonum.     Compositce. 

Seeds.     Increased  by  dividing  the  roots  in  spring. 
Chrysophyllum  (Star  Apple).      Sapotacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  when  procurable.  By  cuttings  of  small 
well-ripened  shoots,  plunged  in  strong,  moist  heat. 

Chrysopsis.     Compositce. 

Seeds.     Propagated  by  division  in  spring. 
Chrysosplenium  (Golden  Saxifrage).     Saxifrages. 

Increased  easily  by  division.     Also  occasionally  by  seeds. 
Cicca  (Otaheite  Gooseberry).     Euphorbiacece. 

Seeds.  By  cuttings  of  ripe  shoots,  which  will  root  in 
sand,  if  placed  under  a  glass  and  in  bottom  heat. 

Cimicifuga  (Bugwort).     Ranunculacea. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  a  cold-frame  or  border  as  soon 
as  ripe  ;  or  by  division  of  the  roots  in  spring. 

Chinchona  (Peruvian  Bark).     Rubiacece. 

Imported  seeds,  and  cuttings  taken  off  when  ripe  and  plant- 
ed in  a  pot  of  sand,  under  glass,  in  a  moist  heat. 

Cineraria.     Compositce. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  under  glass  ;  those  intended  for 
autumn  flowering  in  April  and  May,  those  for  spring  in  July 
and  August.  Light  leaf-mould  should  be  used,  and  about 
an  equal  quantity  of  fresh  sifted  loam  and  sharp  sand  added, 
the  whole  being  well  mixed.  Old  cow-manure  is  a  good  me- 
dium in  which  to  sow  (see  page  19)  ;  then  fill  up  with  fine  soil. 
Also  by  divisions  and  by  cuttings. 

Cinquefoil.     See  Potentilla. 
Cipura.     Iridece 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  a  slight  heat 
in  spring;  or  by  bulbels,  which  are  abundantly  produced. 

Circsea  (Enchanter's  Nightshade).      Onagrariece. 

Seeds  ;  also  by  the  running  roots. 
Cissampelos.     Menispermaeeee. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  root  readily  in  heat 
Cissus.     Ampelidea. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  the  spring.  Choose  the  weakly 
shoots  that  are  pruned  just  before  the  plants  break  into  new 


THE  NURSE R  Y  LIS T.  1 63 

growth,  or  allow  the  young  shoots  to  grow  to  a  length  of 
about  two  inches.  Then  cut  them  off,  with  a  small  piece  of 
the  base  branch  adhering  to  the  young  wood  ;  or  the  shoots 
may  be  cut  off  with  one  or  several  of  these  young  branchlets 
on  them.  Cut  the  old  branch  through  at  the  base  of  each 
young  one,  and  insert  the  cutting  with  this  heel  of  the  old 
wood  entire.  In  this  country,  usually  grown  from  common 
green  cuttings  in  summer. 

Cistus  (Rock  Rose).     Cistinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  layers  or  cuttings  under  frames 
outside,  or  inside  with  a  gentle  bottom  heat ;  but  seedlings 
always  make  the  best  plants.  The  seeds  should  be  sown 
early  in  the  spring  in  pans  or  boxes  in  a  frame,  and  lightly 
covered  with  sifted  sandy  mould.  Cuttings  should  be  made 
from  three  to  four  inches  long.  They  may  be  struck  in 
spring  or  autumn,  in  sandy  peat  under  glass 

Citron  {Citrus  medico}.     Rutacecv. 

Seeds,  which  usually  reproduce  the  kind.    Mature  cuttings, 
the  same  as  lemon.     Also  budded  on  orange,  lemon  or  lime 
stocks. 
Citrus.     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  layers,  cuttings,  inarching,  grafting  and 
budding.  For  particular  methods,  see  Lemon,  Lime,  Orange 
and  Pomelo. 

Cladrastis  (Yellow-wood).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seed  sown  in  the  open  air  in  spring,  or  by 
cuttings  of  the  roots. 

Clarkia.      Onagrarice. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  spring  or  au- 
tumn out-doors. 

Clavija,  Theophraste.     Myrsinece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots.  These  will 
root  in  sandy  loam,  with  a  surface  consisting  wholly  of  sand, 
if  placed  in  bottom  heat. 

Clematis  (Virgin's  Bower).     Ranunculacece. 

Clematis  may  be  increased  by  seeds.  The  seed  vessels 
should  be  gathered  before  autumn,  and  stored  in  some  dry. 
cool  place  till  the  following  spring,  when  the  seeds  they  con- 
tain may  be  sown  in  light,  sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  gentle 
heat  till  they  germinate.  By  layers  outside,  put  in  at  any 
time.  All  the  varieties  of  clematis  may  also  be  readily  in- 


164  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

creased  by  cuttings  made^-of  the  young  shoots,  which  may 
be  cut  up  to  every  eye  and  planted  in  gentle  heat.  Also  by 
grafting  any  of  the  varieties  on  portions  of  clematis  roots  in 
winter.  Good  healthy  pieces  of  root  obtained  from  old 
plants  answer  the  purpose  well.  See  also  Atragene. 

Cleome.      Capparidece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  frame  in  spring,  with  slight 
warmth.  Ripened  cuttings  root  freely  in  moderate  heat. 

Clerodendron,  Ovieda,  Siphonantha,  Volkameria.  Verbenacece. 
Increased  by  seed,  which,  if  sown  when  ripe  or  in  the 
spring,  and  grown  on  in  heat,  may  be  converted  into  flower- 
ing plants  the  second  season.  Propagated  also  by  cuttings 
of  both  green  and  mature  wood  ;  also  of  roots.  Suckers. 
The  climbing  varieties  do  not  root  quite  so  readily  from  cut- 
tings as  the  others,  but  cuttings  of  the  ripened  wood  do  well. 

Clethra.     Ericaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions  and  layers.  Cuttings  taken 
from  the  half-ripened  wood  will  root  in  gentle  heat. 

Clianthus  (Glory  Pea,  Parrot  Beak).     Leguminosce. 

C.  Dampieri  is  best  raised  from  seeds,  which  should  be 
sown  singly  in  good-sized  pots,  when  the  necessity  of  first 
shifting  will  be  obviated.  C.  puniceus  and  others  from  cut- 
tings, which  strike  easily  in  sand  in  bottom  heat. 

Clintonia.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division  of  the  root  in  spring. 
Clitoria     Leguminosce. 

The  best  method  of  increasing  is  by  seeds.  Increased  also 
by  cuttings  of  stubby  side  shoots,  which  will  root  in  sandy 
soil,  in  heat. 

Cliva,  Imantophyllum.     Amaryllidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  divisions. 
Clove-tree.     See  Caryophyllus. 
Clusia  (Balsam-tree).      Gutliferce. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots,  which  will 
strike  in  sand,  with  bottom  heat. 

Cobsea.     Palemoniacece. 

Readily  raised  from  fresh  seed  in  spring,  if  a  gentle  bot- 
tom heat  is  supplied.  It  is  often  said  that  the  seeds  must 
be  placed  on  edge,  but  this  is  a  mistake.  From  cuttings  taken 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  ^5 

when  young,  in  spring,  and  inserted  in  pots  of  sandy  soil, 
placed  in  gentle  bottom  heat. 

Coccocypselum.     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  creeping  stems. 

Coccoloba  (Seaside  Grape).     Polygonacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings  of  the  ripened  wood, 
with  leaves  entire,  and  taken  off  at  a  joint.  These  will  root 
freely  in  sand  under  glass. 

Cocculus,  Wendlandia.     Menispermacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  By  half-ripened  cuttings  of  side 
shoots  ;  these  will  root  easily  in  spring  or  summer,  if  planted 
in  sand  and  placed  in  bottom  heat,  under  glass. 

Cockscomb.     See  Celosia. 

Cocoanut  (Cocos  nucifera].     Palmce. 

The  nuts  are  buried  in  nursery  rows,  and  the  young  trees 
are  transplanted.  A  more  common  practice  is  to  remove  the 
buried  nuts,  when  they  begin  to  sprout,  to  the  place  in  which 
the  tree  is  to  stand.  A  nut  is  then  placed  in  a  hole  some 
two  feet  deep,  which  is  gradually  filled  in  as  the  plant  grows. 
In  from  six  to  eight  years  the  tree  begins  to  bear. 

Codiaeum,  Croton.     Euphorbiacece. 

New  varieties  are  produced  by  seed.  Increased  by  taking 
off  the  tops  of  any  strong  leading  shoots,  and  making  them 
into  cuttings.  They  may  be  struck  by  placing  singly  in  small 
pots  and  covering  with  bell-glasses,  in  strong,  moist  heat, 
where  they  will  soon  emit  roots,  without  losing  any  of  the 
leaves  attached  at  the  time  they  were  inserted.  Or  they  may 
placed  in  a  bed  of  sand. 

Coffea  (Coffee-tree).      Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  Also  by  ripe  cuttings,  which  strike 
freely  in  sand  under  glass,  in  moist  heat ;  and  the  young 
plants  so  raised  produce  flowers  and  fruit  more  readily  than 
those  grown  from  seed. 

Coffee-tree,  Kentucky.     See  Gymnocladus. 
Colchicum  (Autumn  Crocus).      Liliacece. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  protected  place.     Separa- 
ration. 
Coleus.     Labiatce. 

Increased  by  seeds  for  new  varieties.  By  cuttings  with 
the  greatest  freedom  at  almost  any  time  of  the  year,  and, 


!66  THE  NURSERY-HOOK. 

with  a  good  moist  heat,  they  will  quickly  form  fine  speci- 
mens.    (Fig.  53.) 
Colletia.     Rhamnece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood,  six  to  eight 
inches  in  length,  in  a  cool  greenhouse. 
Collinsonia.     Labiatce. 

Increased  readily  by  dividing  roots  in  spring  ;  also  seeds. 
Colocasia.     See  Caladium. 
Columbine.     See  Aquilegia. 
Colutea  (Bladder  Senna).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings,  placed  in  sandy  soil 
in  the  autumn. 

Combretum.     Combretacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  side  shoots,  taken  off  with  a  heel, 
planted  in  sand  under  glass,  and  placed  in  heat. 

Comesperma.    Poly  gale  ce. 

Seeds.     Propagated  by  young  cuttings,  which  root  freely  if 
planted  in  sand  under  glass. 
Comfrey.     See  Symphytum. 
Commelina.     Commelinactce. 

Increased  by  seeds.  By  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand, 
in  a  gentle  hot-bed. 

Comocladia  (Maiden  Plum).     Anacardiacece. 

Seeds.  Propagated  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  root 
in  sand  if  placed  under  glass,  in  heat. 

Comparettia.     Or  chide  ce. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  plants.  (See  under  Orchids, ) 
Comptonia  (Sweet  Fern).  Myricacece. 

Seeds ;  by  dividing  the  clumps,  and  by  layers,  which 
should  be  put  down  in  autumn. 

Conocarpus  (Button-tree).      Combretacece. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots,  taken  in 
April,  in  bottom  heat. 

Convallaria  (Lily  of  the  Valley).     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  "crowns"  or  "pips"  (see  Fig.  17),  which 
are  the  separated  growing  points  of  the  roots,  possessing  a 
strong  bud.  These  crowns  can  be  obtained  from  any  well 
established  bed  in  the  fall,  but  they  are  usually  imported. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  ify 

Convolvulus  (Bindweed).      Convolvulacece . 

Seeds  of  the  hardy  annuals  should  be  sown  in  spring  in 
the  open  border.  The  hardy  perennials  may  be  increased 
by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  by  division  of  the  roots,  and  by 
young  cuttings. 

Coprosma.     Rubiacece. 

Increased  by  layers  and  cuttings. 
Coptis.     Ranunculacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  division  of  the  roots. 

Cordia,  Varronia.     Boraginece. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  cuttings,  green  or  ripe,  which  strike 
root  readily  in  sand,  in  heat. 

Corema  (Portugal  Crakeberry,  Crowberry).     Empetracex. 

Seeds.     Propagated  by  cuttings  planted  during  summer. 
Coreopsis,  Calliopsis.      Composites. 

The  hardy  annuals,  which  are  largely  grown  under  the 
name  of  calliopsis  for  summer  ornamentation,  by  seed,  which 
should  by  sown  in  March  in  a  gentle  heat,  or  outside  later. 
The  perennials  are  propagated  also  by  divisions  of  the  root 
in  autumn  or  spring,  or  during  the  summer  by  young  cuttings, 
which  will  strike  freely  in  a  cold-frame. 

Coriander  (Coriandrum  sativuni].      Umbelliferce. 

Seeds  sown  in  fall  or  spring. 
Corn.     See  Maize. 

Corn  Salad  (Valerianella,  several  species).      Valeria-new. 
Seeds  sown  in  spring,  summer  or  autumn. 

Cornus  (Dogwood  Osier).      Cornacece. 

Increased  by  seed,  suckers  of  soft  wood,  layers  or  cuttings. 
The  herbaceous  species,  C.  Canadensis  and  C.  Suecica,  may 
be  increased  by  division,  as  also  by  seeds.  The  willow-like 
cornuses  grow  from  cuttings  of  ripe  wood.  Named  varieties 
and  some  species  are  budded  in  many  cases,  especially  all 
the  weak-growing  sorts.  Cornus  Mas,  raised  from  seed,  is 
the  favorite  stock.  Shield-budding  in  late  summer  and  ve- 
neer-grafting are  most  successful.  (See  Fig.  44. ^ 

Coronilla.     Leguminosoc. 

By  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  The  hardy  species  by  divi- 
sion. Cuttings  strike  freely  if  placed  in  cold-frames  or  a 


!68  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

cool  house  under  a  hand-glass  in  spring,  and  when  calloused, 
introduced  to  gentle  bottom  heat. 

Correa.     Rutacece. 

Seeds.      May  be  propagated  by  cuttings  very  readily.     Va- 
rieties are  usually  grafted  on  C.  alba. 

Cortusa  (Bear's-ear  Sanicle).     Primulacece. 

Increased  by  seed  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  cold-frame  ; 
also  by  carefully  dividing  the  roots. 
Coryanthes.     See  Stanhopea. 
Corydalis.     Ftimariece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  dividing  the  plants  directly  after 
flowering.  The  bulbous-rooted  species  by  offsets. 

Corylus  (Hazel  ;  Cob-nut).      Cupuliferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  suckers,  layers  or  cuttings.  Grafting 
and  budding  are  each  practicable,  and  are  adopted  when 
growing  tall  standards  or  scarce  varieties.  The  seed  of  all 
should  be  sown  as  soon  as  gathered,  or  stored  in  sand  till  the 
following  spring.  All  superior  varieties  should  be  increased 
by  suckers  or  layers.  Stools  kept  for  layering  must  be  allow- 
ed to  make  more  growth  than  those  used  for  suckers.  Free 
growth  must  be  encouraged  for  a  year  or  more,  and,  any  suit- 
able time  in  winter,  the  shoots  should  be  bent  to  the  ground, 
pegged  firmly,  and  covered  to  the  depth  of  three  inches  with 
earth.  They  will  be  well  rooted  by  the  following  autumn, 
and  may  then  be  removed  and  planted  out  permanently. 

Corynostylis,  Calyptrion.      Violariece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  of  the  young  wood, 
placed  in  sand  in  bottom  heat,  under  glass. 

Cosmos.     Compositce. 

Seeds,  usually  started  under  glass.     The  tuberiferous  spe- 
cies, like  Dahlia,  which  see. 
Costus.     Scitaminece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  roots. 
Cotoneaster.        Rosacece. 

Propagated   readily  by  seed,    which    should    be  sown   in 
spring  ;  by  layers  or  cuttings  in  autumn,  or  by  grafting  on 
C.  vulgaris,  the  common  quince,  or  the  hawthorn. 
Cotton  (Gossypiui/i).     Malvaceae. 

Seeds  commonly.  Grown  as  a  curiosity  under  glass  ;  it 
may  be  increased  by  soft  cuttings. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  169 

Cotyledon  (Navel wort).      Crassulacece. 

Increased  by  seed,  offsets,  cuttings  of  the  stem,  and  by 
leaves.  The  leaves  should  be  pulled  off  in  autumn,  laid  on 
dry  sand  in  pans  on  a  shelf  in  a  propagating  or  other  warm 
house,  and  not  watered  until  small  plants  appear  at  the  ends 
of  the  leaves. 

Cowslip.     See  Primula. 
Crambe.     Crudferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  by  dividing  the  roots  and  by  root  cut- 
tings. See  Sea-kale. 

Cranberry  (Vacdnium  macrocarpon).     Ericaceae. 

The  cultivated  cranberry  is  propagated  entirely  by  cut- 
tings. These  are  made  from  vigorous  young  runners,  from 
six  to  ten  inches  in  length,  and  they  are  thrust  obliquely  into 
the  soil  until  only  an  inch  or  two  of  the  tip  projects.  Some 
blunt  instrument,  as  a  stick,  is  commonly  used  to  force  them 
into  the  sand  of  cranberry  bogs.  Planting  is  done  in  the 
spring,  and  the  cuttings  are  taken  just  previous  to  the  oper- 
tion.  If  cranberry  seedlings  are  desired,  the  seeds  should  be 
sown  in  flats  of  peaty  earth,  which  are  stored  until  spring  in 
some  protected  place,  in  the  manner  of  stratification  boxes. 
The  seeds  should  be  covered  lightly,  preferably  with  fine 
moss.  The  plants  are  allowed  to  grow  the  first  year  in  the 
box. 

Crassula.     Crassulacece. 

Seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  taken  off  and 
laid  for  two  or  three  days  in  the  sun  to  dry  before  planting. 

Crataegus  (Haw,  Hawthorn).     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  stratified  seeds.  Some  growers  spread  the 
haws  in  shallow  piles  in  the  fall,  and  allow  them  to  decay,  so 
that  most  of  the  pulp  is  removed  before  they  are  stratified. 
Haws  often  come  irregularly,  even  from  stratified  seeds. 
The  varieties  are  grafted,  rarely  budded,  on  common  stocks. 

Cress  (Lepidium  sativum).      Cruciferce. 

Seeds,  sown  at  any  time  of  year.     See  Water  Cress. 
Cress,  American.     See  Barbarea. 
Cress,  Rock.     See  Arabis. 
Crinum.     Atnaryllidece. 

Increased  by  seed,  sown  singly  as  soon  as  ripe  in  three  or 
four-inch  pots,  in  sandy  loam  and  leaf-mould.     Place  in  a 
N.  B.— 12 


170 


THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 


temperature  of  from  70°  to  80°,  and  keep  rather  dry  until 
the  plants  appear,  when  more  moisture  should  be  applied. 
Also  increased  by  offsets,  which  should  be  removed  when 
rather  small  and  potted  separately,  and  grown  as  recom- 
mended for  seedlings. 

Crithmum.     Umbelliferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  and  by  divisions. 
Crocosmia.     Iridece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  pans  in  a  cold  house  as  soon 
as  possible  after  maturity.  Also  by  offsets. 

Crocus.     Iridece. 

Propagated  by  seed,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  early  in  spring, 
the  choicer  strains  in  pots  or  boxes,  using  a  light,  sandy  soil, 
and  afterwards  placing  them  in  a  cold  pit  or  frame;  the 
more  common  varieties  may  be  placed  in  a  warm  position 
outside  in  a  seed  bed.  Sow  thinly,  so  that  the  plants  may 
grow  two  years  in  the  seed  pan  or  bed  without  lifting.  By 
the  corms.  These  may  be  lifted  and  replanted,  allowing  each 
in  its  turn  to  develop  new  corms  below.  The  following  year 
new  corms,  or  cormels,  are  also  formed  by  the  side  of  the 
old  corms.  These  old  corms  die  away  annually.  Some  spe- 
cies increase  much  more  rapidly  than  others. 

Crossandra,  Harrachia.     Acanthacece. 

Seeds.  Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  root  freely  at  al- 
most any  time  of  the  year,  in  bottom  heat. 

Crotalaria  (Rattle-Box).     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds.  The  shrubby  kinds  by  young  cuttings, 
which  root  freely  in  sand,  under  glass,  in  a  cool  house. 

Croton.     See  Codiaeum. 
Crowea.     Rutacece. 

Seeds.      Usually  by  green  cuttings  in  a  frame. 

Crowfoot.     See  Ranunculus. 
Crucianella  (Crosswort).     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  divisions  during  spring  or  autumn, 
and  by  cuttings. 

Cryptomeria  (Japan  Cedar).      Conifer ce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  growing  wood  plant- 
ed in  sandy  soil,  under  glass. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  171 

Cryptostemma.     Composite. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  on  a  gentle 
hot-bed  in  early  spring. 

Cubeba.     See  Piper. 

Cucumber  {Ctuumis  sativus}.     Cucurbitacece. 

Seeds.  If  sown  out-doors,  the  operation  should  be  delayed 
until  the  weather  is  thoroughly  settled. 

Cucumber-tree.     See  Magnolia. 

Cunninghamia  (Broad-leaved  China  Fir).      Conifer ce. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  cuttings  of  growing  wood. 
Cuphea.     Lythrariece. 

Increased  easily  by  seed  ;  but  cuttings  of  the  perennial 
sorts  strike  freely  in  March  or  April,  in  brisk  bottom  heat. 

Cupressus  (Cypress).      Conifer  ce. 

Seeds  may  be  collected  in  early  spring,  and  should  be  sown 
in  April  in  a  warm,  friable  soil.  Cuttings  of  growing  or  ma- 
ture wood,  much  as  for  Retinospora,  which  see. 

CurculigO.     Amaryllidece. 

Seeds  ;  also  by  suckers,  which  form  at  the  base  of  the  stem. 

Curcuma  (Tumeric).     Scitaminece. 
Increased  by  root  division. 

Currant  (Ribes  rtibrttm,  J\.  nigrum  and  R.  aureuni}.  Saxifragece. 
New  varieties  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in 
the  fall  or  stratified  until  spring.  Varieties  are  nearly  always 
multiplied  by  hard-wood  cuttings  (Fig.  49).  The  cuttings 
may  be  taken  in  spring  and  placed  directly  in  the  ground,  but 
better  results  are  obtained  by  taking  them  in  the  fall  or  late 
summer.  Many  nurserymen  prefer  to  take  them  in  August, 
strip  off  the  leaves,  and  bury  them  in  bunches  with  the  butts 
up.  They  may  remain  in  this  condition  or  in  a  cellar  all 
winter,  or  they  may  be  planted  in  the  fall.  Currant  cuttings 
strike  readily,  however,  under  any  method.  Some  growers 
cut  out  the  buds  which  come  below  the  surface  of  the  ground 
to  prevent  suckering,  but  this  is  not  generally  practiced  ;  the 
suckers  are  cut  off  when  the  cuttings  are  removed  from  the 
cutting-bed,  either  to  be  sold  or  to  be  transplanted  into  nur- 
sery rows.  Green  layering  is  sometimes  practiced  with  rare 
sorts,  or  single  eyes  may  be  used,  as  in  grapes.  Tip-layer- 
ing, as  in  the  black  raspberry,  may  also  be  employed.  (See 
page  33.)  Weak  or  low  sorts  are  sometimes  grafted  upon 


1 72  THE    NURSERY-BOOK. 

stronger  ones,  in  order  to  give  them  a  tree  form,  but  such 
bushes  are  grown  only  as  curiosities  or  as  specimen  plants. 

Cussonia.     Araliacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  planted  in  sand, 
under  glass.  Give  slight  bottom  heat. 

Custard  Apple.     See  Anona. 
Cyananthus.     Campanulacece. 

Seeds.  Strong  roots  may  be  carefully  divided  in  spring, 
but  this  is  not  desirable.  Usually  by  cuttings,  which  should 
be  taken  during  spring  or  early  summer,  and  struck  in  sandy 
peat,  being  kept  moist. 

Cyanophyllum.     Melastomacece. 

Increased  by  seed,  By  cuttings  or  eyes,  which  should  be 
placed  in  sand  where  a  good  bottom  heat  must  be  maintained, 
and  they  should  be  shaded  from  the  sun. 

Cyanotis.     Commelinacece. 

Seeds  ;  usually   by  young  cuttings  in  sandy  soil,  in  brisk 
heat. 
Cycas.      Cycadacece. 

Increased  by  seed,  and  oftener  by  suckers. 
Cyathea.     See  Ferns. 
Cyclamen  (Sowbread).     Prinmlacece. 

Propagated  by  seed,  sown  when  freshly  gathered  ;  the 
hardy  kinds  in  pots  placed  in  a  cool  frame.  By  divisions 
and  leaf  cuttings,  taken  off  with  a  heel  ;  but  these  methods 
are  not  very  satisfactory. 

Cynoglossum.     Boraginece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions  and  root  cuttings. 
Cypella.     Iridece. 

Propagated  by  seed,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  cool  house, 
and  by  offsets. 

Cyperus.     Cyperacece. 

Propagated  either  by  seed,  sown  in  gentle  heat,  or  by 
divisions. 

Cyphia.      Campanulacece. 

When  the  stems  begin  to  push  out  from  the  root,  cut  off  as 
many  of  the  shoots  as  are  required,  and  place  them  in  small 
pots  in  an  equal  mixture  of  loam,  peat,  and  sand  in  abun- 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


X73 


dance.  The  young  plants  should  be  kept  dry  until  callused, 
but  not  covered  with  glass.  They  may  also  be  increased  by 
cuttings,  under  a  hand-glass  in  a  cool  house. 

Cyphomandra  (Tree  Tomato  of  Jamaica).     Solanacefe. 

Use  seeds  ;  or  cuttings  may  be  placed  under  glass,  in  bot- 
tom heat. 

Cypress.     See  Cupressus. 
Cypripedium  (Lady's  Slipper).      Orchidece. 

By  seeds  sometimes.  Usually  by  division.  (See  under 
Orchids. ) 

Cyrilla.     Ericacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings. 

Cyrtanthus.     Amaryllidece. 
Propagated  by  offsets. 

Cytisus  (Scotch  Broom).     Leguminosce. 

By  seeds  and  layers.  In  spring,  cuttings  of  young  wood 
may  be  taken  when  about  three  inches  long  (with  a  heel  pre- 
ferred), placed  under  a  bell-glass  in  heat,  or  in  a  close  frame, 
where  they  will  root  readily.  If  gradually  hardened,  potted 
and  grown  on,  small  flowering  specimens  may  by  obtained 
the  following  spring.  C.  purpurea  is  usually  grafted  on  the 
common  laburnum. 

Dacrydium  (Tear  Tree).      Conifer ce. 

Increased  by  fresh  seed  and  ripened  cuttings. 

Daffodil.     See  Narcissus. 

Dahlia.     Composilce. 

Single  varieties,  and  sometimes  the  doubles,  are  grown 
from  seeds.  The  roots  may  be  broken  apart  after  the  crowns 
have  started  in  spring,  and  each  part  grown  separately.  The 
roots  may  be  started  into  growth  in  heat  late  in  winter,  and 
the  young  sprouts  may  be  removed  and  handled  as  ordinary 
cuttings  as  fast  as  they  form.  Or  rare  sorts  may  >be  increased 
during  summer  by  cuttings  from  the  growing  tips.  Cions 
made  of  the  growing  tips  may  be  grafted  into  the  roots  by  a 
cleft  or  side  graft.  This  method  is  oftenest  employed  for 
the  purpose  of  preserving  over  winter  rare  sorts  which  it  is 
feared  may  be  lost.  The  grafts  are  kept  growing  slowly  dur- 
ing winter,  and  cuttings  may  be  taken  from  them.  Cuttings 
should  always  have  a  bud  or  buds  at  the  base,  and  in  propa- 
gation by  division  there  must  be  a  piece  of  the  crown  at- 
tached to  the  root. 


174 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Daisy.     See  Bellis. 
Dalbergia.     Leguminosce. 

Place  cuttings  of  firm  young  shoots  in  sand  under  a  glass, 
in  spring.     Give  a  little  bottom  heat. 
Dampiera.     Goodenoviccv. 

Divisions.  Cuttings  should  be  planted  in  a  mixture  of 
turfy  loam,  peat  and  sand,  in  heat. 

Dandelion  {Taraxacum  officinale}.      Coniposilce. 
Seeds,  in  early  spring. 

Daphne.      Thymelacece. 

Seeds.  For  layers,  remove  the  soil  in  spring  to  a  depth 
of  two  or  three  inches  about  the  plant,  and  fill  with  fine 
compost  to  within  two  inches  of  the  tops  of  the  shoots.  The 
next  spring,  carefully  wash  away  the  compost,  and  plant  the 
small  white  buds  in  pots  of  fine  soil.  Place  in  a  cool  frame. 
Cuttings  should  be  made  of  matured  shoots  or  side  growths 
in  autumn  ;  insert  thinly  in  well-drained  pots  of  peaty  soil, 
and  cover  with  a  bell-glass.  If  kept  in  a  cool  house  in  win- 
ter they  will  callus,  and  may,  early  in  spring,  be  introduced 
to  gentle  heat,  to  encourage  growth  and  the  emission  of  roots. 
Pot  the  young  plants  singly,  and  grow  on  in  a  close  but  not 
high  temperature,  and  afterwards  harden  and  keep  quite 
cool  during  the  following  autumn  and  winter,  in  order  to 
thoroughly  ripen  the  wood.  Grafted  specimens  may  be 
treated  in  a  similar  way.  D.  odora  is  propagated  by  ripened 
cuttings  in  a  cool  house,  in  sand.  Sometimes  the  old  wood 
can  be  used.  The  time  is  determined  by  the  fitness  of  the 
wood. 

Darlingtonia.     Sarraceniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  dividing  the  plants.  Seeds  may 
be  sown  on  the  surface  of  well-prepared  fibrous  soil,  and 
then  covered  with  dead  sphagnum  moss,  rubbed  through  a 
sieve.  Give  shade. 

Darwinia.     Myrtacea. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  the  young  roots.  Place  in  a 
cold-frame. 

Dasylirion.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  suckers  and  cuttings. 
Date  (Phienix  dactylifera).     Falmece. 

The  seeds  from  commercial  dates  grow  readily,  and  with- 
out the  intervention  of  stratification.  Special  varieties  are 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


175 


*  propagated  by  a  sort  of  cutting,  made  by  removing  and  root- 
ing the  sprouts  which  appear  about  the  base  of  the  tree. 
These  root  readily  if  taken  off  green  and  liberally  supplied 
with  water.  They  often  begin  to  bear  in  five  or  six  years. 

Date  Palm.     See  Phoenix. 
Datisca.     Datiscece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  and  by  dividing  well  estab- 
lished plants. 

Datura,  including  Brugmansia,  Ceratocaulis  and  Stramonium. 

Solanacece. 

The  annual  species  are  propagated  by  seeds,  which  are 
started  under  cover  in  the  north.  The  perennials  are  readily 
grown  from  cuttings  in  mild  heat.  Heeled  shoots  are  usu- 
ally preferred. 

Daubenya.     Liliacecc. 

Increased  by  offsets. 
Davallia.     Fihces. 

Propagated  largely  by  division.     See  Ferns. 
Daviesia.     Leguminosce. 

Seed  may  be  sown  in  slight  heat  in  spring.  Cuttings  may 
be  made  of  firm  young  shoots,  and  placed  in  sand  under  a 
frame. 

Day  Lily.     See  Hemerocallis. 
Deciduous  Cypress.     See  Taxodium. 
Decumaria.     Saxifragece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  may  be  made  in  summer,  and  placed 
under  a  frame  in  a  shady  situation. 

Delphinium  (Larkspur).     Ranunculacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  out-doors  in  a  warm  border  in  spring, 
or  in  pans,  to  be  placed  either  in  frames  or  outside.  The 
old  plants  of  perennial  sorts  may  be  cut  down  after  flower- 
ing, when  young  growths  will  proceed  from  the  base,  and  the 
whole  may  be  lifted  and  carefully  divided.  Cuttings  of  the 
young  shoots,  taken  in  autumn  or  spring,  will  root  freely  if 
potted  singly  and  placed  in  a  cold-frame.  They  will  flower 
the  following  season  at  the  same  time  as  the  divisions. 

Dendrobium.     Orchidece. 

The  methods  of  propagating  these  plants  have  already 
been  mentioned.  Where  a  rapid  increase  of  a  new  or  spec- 


I76  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

ial  variety  is  required,  the  pseudo-bulbs  that  are  more  than 
one  year  old  should  be  cut  into  lengths,  and  fastened  on  or- 
chid rafts,  with  a  layer  of  sphagnum  beneath  them.  Sus- 
pend them  in  a  hot,  moist  house,  if  possible,  over  a  water- 
tank.  The  advantage  of  this  method  is  that  the  young  plants 
do  not  need  shifting  after  they  commence  rooting  on  their 
own  account.  The  section  to  which  D.  aggregatum,  D.  Jen- 
kinsii,  D.  densiflorum  and  D.  thyrsiflorum  belong,  are  best 
propagated  by  division.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Dentaria  (Tooth wort).     Crudferce. 
Propagated  by  seeds  or  divisions. 

Deodar.     See  Cedrus. 

Desfontainea.     Loganiacece. 

Cuttings,  placed  in  a  sandy  loam,  in  a  gentle  heat. 

Desmodium.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  placed  under  a  frame, 
in  heat. 

Deutzia.     Saxifrages. 

Commercially,  the  species  are  mostly  propagated  by  green 
hardened  cuttings  in  summer,  under  a  frame.  Hard-wooded 
cuttings  may  be  taken  in  autumn,  and  be  treated  in  about 
the  same  manner  as  currant  cuttings  (see  page  58).  The 
deutzias  are  also  propagated  by  divisions  and  layers.  Some 
of  the  dwarf  sorts  are  sometimes  forced,  to  make  cuttings 
for  winter  use. 

Dewberry    (Rubus  Canadensis  and  vars.,   and  Rubus  trivialis. 

Rosacece. 

Seeds  are  handled  in  the  same  manner  as  blackberry  seeds. 
Increased  by  layers  and,  like  the  blackberry,  by  root  cut- 
tings. Layers  are  made  by  simply  covering  the  decumbent 
canes  at  the  joints.  This  is  the  usual  method  of  multiplica- 
tion. The  tips,  too,  root  freely,  as  in  the  black-cap  rasp- 
berries. 

Dianella.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  gentle  heat  during  spring. 
By  divisions. 

Dianthera.     See  Justicia. 

Dianthus.     See  Carnation,  Pink  and  Sweet  William. 

Dicentra,  Capnorchis,  Diclytra  (Bleeding  Heart).    Papaveraceoe. 

The  crowns  may  be  divided  in  early  spring,  or  cuttings 

may  be  made  of  the  fleshy  roots  in  short  lengths,  and  placed 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


177 


in  sand.     The  roots  should  be  placed  in  a  compost  of  sandy 
loam,  in  well-drained  pots,  as  soon  as  the  foliage  dies  off, 
and  transferred  to  a  cold-frame. 
Dichorisandra.      Commelinacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings. 
Dichosma.     See  Agathosma. 
Dicksonia.     Filices. 

Division  mostly.      See  Ferns. 
Diclytra.     See  Dicentra. 
Dictamnus  (Dittany,  or  Fraxinella).     Rutacece. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.     Division  is  used. 
Dictyosperma.     See  Areca. 
Dicyrta.     See  Achimenes. 
DidymocarpUS.      Gesneracecc. 

Cuttings,  which  are  obtained  from  young  shoots  when 
commencing  growth,  and  placed  in  sandy  soil,  in  hea«t. 
Also  by  seeds. 

Didymosperma.     See  Areca. 

Dieffenbachia.     See  Caladium. 

Diervilla,  Weigela.      Caprifoliacece. 

Suckers.  Cuttings  may  be  made  in  spring,  summer  or 
autumn.  Hardened  green  cuttings,  handled  under  a  frame 
in  summer,  are  extensively  used  by  nurserymen.  (See  page 
58 .)  They  are  sometimes  grown  from  cuttings  in  winter  from 
forced  plants.  Hard-wood  cuttings,  made  in  winter  a-nd 
planted  in  spring  like  the  grape,  succeed  well. 

Digitalis  (Foxglove).      Scrophularinece . 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring,  either  in-doors  or  in  the  open. 
The  common  foxglove  (D.  purpurea]  often  self-sows  itself. 

Dill  (Are t hum  graveolens)       Umbelliferce. 

Seeds,  in  early  spring. 
Dillenia,  including  Colbertia.     Dilleniacece. 

Seeds,  which,  however,  are  grown  with  much  difficulty. 
Cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  may  be  placed  in  sand,  under 
a  frame,  in  bottom  heat. 

Dimorphotheca.     Compost  fee. 

The  seeds  of  the  annual  sorts  should  be  sown  in  heat  in 
spring.  The  perennials  are  grown  from  green  cuttings. 


178  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Dionaea.     Droseracece. 

Propagated  sometimes  by  seed  ;  usually  by  dividing  the 
plants. 

Dion,  Platyzamia.      Cycadacece. 

Propagated  by  seed. 
Dioscorea  (Yam).     Dioscoreacea. 

The  tubers  may  be  divided  in  autumn  or  spring,  when  not 
growing.  Seeds  are  sometimes  used,  so  are  the  tubers 
which  form  in  the  axils  by  the  leaves.  Stove  species  can  be 
propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  wood. 

Diosma.     Rtitacece. 

Cuttings  in  sandy  peat,  and  under  a  frame  placed  in  very 
gentle  heat,  will  soon  root. 

Diospyros  (Date  Plum,  Persimmon).     Ebenacece. 

Seeds  are  used  for  the  hardy  species.  Also  by  cuttings  of 
half-ripened  shoots.  Those  requiring  stove  heat  strike  best 
from  ripened  shoots,  placed  in  sand  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat 
during  spring.  See  also  Persimmon. 

Dipcadi,  Uropetalum.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  offsets  in  spring. 
Diplacus.     See  Mimulus. 
Dipladenia.     Apocynacece. 

In  spring,  when  the  plants  commence  new  growth,  cuttings 
from  the  young  shoots  are  made.  These,  or  single  eyes, 
should  be  placed  in  a  mixture  of  sand  and  peat,  in  good 
bottom  heat. 

Diplazium.     See  Ferns. 
Diplothemium.     Palmce. 

Propagation  is  affected  by  seeds. 
Dipteracanthus.     See  Ruellia. 
Dirca.      Thymelece. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  layers. 
Disa.     Ore  hide  ce. 

D.  grandiflora  and  others  of  similar  habit  are  propagated 
by  offsets.  These  are  best  taken  off  about  December,  and 
treated  like  the  old  plants.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Disocactus.     See  Phyllocactus. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  jyg 

Disporum,  including  Prosartes.     Liliacece. 

Seeds  may  be  used  ;  or  the  plant  may  be  divided  in  spring 
before  active  growth  commences. 
Dodecatheon,  Meadia  (American  Cowslip).      Prinmlacece . 

Seeds.     The  crowns  may  be  divided  either  in  spring  or 
autumn.     Cuttings  of  the  whole  root  can  be  effectively  used, 
the  root  being  torn  off  the  crown,  planted  upright,  and  of 
course  covered  with  the  sandy  soil  commonly  used  in  this 
form  of  propagation. 
Dog's  Bane.     See  Apocynum. 
Dog's-tooth  Violet.     See  Erythronium. 
Dogwood.     See  Cornus. 
Dolichos.     Leguminosce. 

By  seeds.      Sometimes  cuttage  or  layerage  is  resorted  to. 
Dorcoceras.     See  Baea. 
Doronicum,  including  Aronicum  (Leopard's  Bane).     Composite?. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions. 
Dorstenia.      Urticacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  a  hot-bed  in  early  spring.     Before 
active  growth  commences  the  plants  may  be  divided. 

Doryanthes.     Amaryllidece. 

Propagated  by  suckers  placed  in  small  pots. 
Dorycnium,  including  Boujeania.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds. 
Downiugia,  Clintonia.      Campanulacece. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  mild  heat  in  spring. 
Draba,  including  Petrocallis  (Whitlow  Grass).      Crudferce. 

The  annuals  or  biennials  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in 
spring  in  the  open  border.      The  perennials  may  be  propa- 
gated by  dividing  the  crowns. 
Dracaena  (Dragon-tree).     Liliacece. 

Rarely  grown  from  seed.  Layers  do  not  succeed  very 
well.  The  stems  of  old  plants  may  be  cut  up  in  pieces  one 
or  two  inches  long,  and  placed  at  any  season  in  cocoanut 
fiber  or  light  soil,  in  the  bottom  heat  of  a  propagating  house. 
The  tops  of  the  plants  will  also  strike  as  cuttings,  and  the 
fleshy  base  of  the  stem  is  sometimes  removed  and  used  for 
propagation.  Root  cuttings  do  well  in  a  moderate  heat. 
(See  Fig.  47.) 


l8o  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Dracocephalum  (Dragon's  Head).     Labiatce. 

The  annuals  are  grown  from  seeds,  sown  in  the  open  in 
spring.  Perennials  are  increased  by  dividing  the  roots,  or 
by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  in  spring. 

Dracontium.     See  Amorphophallus. 
Dragon's  Head.     See  Dracocephalum. 
Dragon-tree.     See  Dracaena. 
Drimys,  Wintera.     Magnoliacece. 

Cuttings  made  of  half-ripened  shoots  should  be  inserted 
in  a  frame. 

Drosera  (Sundew).     Droseracece. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  possible  after  gathering.  D.  bi- 
nata  is  increased  by  cutting  roots  from  strong  plants  into 
pieces  of  one-half  or  one  inch  in  length,  and  placing  them  on 
the  surface  of  shallow  earthenware  pans,  in  sandy  peat  soil, 
and  covering  about  one-half  inch  deep  with  the  same  mater- 
ial. They  are  then  placed  under  a  bell-glass,  and  trans- 
ferred to  a  damp,  warm  propagating  house. 

Drosophyllum.     Droseracece. 
Propagated  by  seed. 

Dutchman's  Pipe.     See  Aristolochia. 
Duvaua.     Anacardiacece. 

Insert  cuttings  made  of  the  ripe  wood  under  glass,  in  gen- 
tle heat. 

Dyckia.     Bromeliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  suckers  and  divisions. 
Eccremocarpus  (Calampelis).     Bignoniacece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring,  in  a  gentle  heat.  Cuttings  may  be 
used,  of  green  or  ripe  wood. 

Echeveria.     See  Cotyledon. 
Echinacea.     Compositce. 

Readily  propagated  by  seeds  and  division. 
Echinocactus.     See  Cactus. 
Echinops,  Echinanthus  (Globe  Thistle).     Compositce. 

Sow  the  seeds  in  spring  for  the  propagation  of  the  bien- 
nials, and  divide  the  perennials  early.  Also  by  root  cuttings. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  X8i 

Echium  (Viper's  Bugloss).     Boraginea. 

The  herbaceous  species  are  raised  from  seeds.  Also  in- 
creased by  divisions.  The  shrubby  sorts  are  increased  more 
readily  by  layers,  but  also  by  cuttings,  placed  in  sandy  soil 
under  glass. 

Edelweiss.     See  Leontopodium. 
Edgeworthia.      Thymelacece. 

Cuttings  should  be  inserted  in  sandy  soil,  under  glass  in 
spring. 

Edwandria.     Leguminosce. 

By  seeds  or  cuttings  of  the  young  wood. 
Egg-Plant  (Solamim  Melongena}.      Solanacece. 

Seeds  in  heat,  in  late  winter  or  spring.     Cuttings  rarely. 
Eglantine.     See  Rosa. 
Ehretia.     Boraginece. 

Place  cuttings  in  sandy  soil  under  glass  in  bottom  heat, 
in  spring. 

Eichhornia.     Pontederiacece. 

Propagation  is  affected  by  division  in  spring  ;  seeds. 
Elaeagnus  (Oleaster,  Wild  Olive,  Goumi).     Elceagnacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  layers  or  cuttings.  The  named  varie- 
ties are  often  grafted  on  the  most  vigorous  varieties  obtain- 
able. Imported  seeds  of  some  species  are  apt  to  be  empty. 
£.  longipes  can  readily  be  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  half- 
ripened  wood  in  June  and  July,  under  glass. 

Elaeis  (Oil  Palm).     Palmat. 

Seeds  are  used  for  propagation. 
Elaeocarpus,  including  Monocera.      Tiliacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  a  hot-bed.  Make  cuttings  of  ri- 
pened shoots,  with  leaves  on,  and  place  them  in  sandy  soil, 
in  bottom  heat. 

Elder.     See  Sambucus. 

Elecampane  (Inula  Heleniuni).     Compositce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  open  air  in  early  spring. 
Elliottia.     Ericaceae. 

Insert  soft-wood  cuttings  in  sand  under  glass. 
Elm.     See  Ulmus. 


1 8  2  THE  NURSE R  Y-BO  OK. 

Elodea.     See  Hypericum. 

Empetrum  (Crowberry  or  Crakeberry).     Empetracece. 

Seeds.  In  summer,  cuttings  may  be  made,  and  should  be 
placed  in  sandy  soil  under  glass. 

Encephalartos.     Cycadacece. 

Increased  by  seeds. 
Endive  (Cichorium  Endivia).      Compositce. 

Seeds,  either  in  the  open  where  the  plants  are  to  stand, 
or  under  glass. 

Enkianthus.     Ericacece. 

Cuttings  made  of  the  ripe  wood  should  be  placed  under 
glass  during  the  spring  months,  without  heat. 

Entelea.     Tiliacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  in  sandy  soil. 
Eomecon.     Papaveracece. 

Seeds  ;  also  by  division. 
Epacris.     Epacridea. 

Grown  from  tip  cuttings  in  a  frame  in  winter,  with  bottom 
heat.  The  cuttings  root  very  slowly. 

Ephedra.     Gnetacece. 

Layers  may  be  made  from  young  shoots  or  branches. 
Epidendrum.     Orchidece. 

The  tall-stemmed  section  of  this  genus  is  increased  by  cut- 
tings, the  section  with  short,  thick  pseudo-bulbs  by  division. 
The  former  also  occasionally  produce  viviparous  flower- 
scapes,  thus  affording  a  ready  means  of  increase.  (See  under 
Orchids.) 

Epigaea.     Ericacece. 

Increased  with  great  difficulty  by  careful  divisions  of  estab- 
lished plants,  and  by  layers.  Seeds,  when  obtainable,  can 
be  used,  but  are  slow  to  develop. 

Epilobium  (Willow-herb).      Onagrariece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions  or  root  cuttings. 

Epimedium  (Barrenwort).     Berberidece. 

Sometimes  increased  by  seeds.  During  July  or  August, 
divisions  of  the  roots  can  be  made. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  183 

Epiphyllum.     Cactece. 

Readily  grown  from  cuttings.  Pieces  of  the  branches  four 
to  six  inches  long  are  placed  in  sandy  soil  in  gentle  heat,  and 
kept  moderately  dry.  Epiphyllums  are  often  grafted  on 
strong  stocks  of  pereskia  (Pereskia  aculeata  is  commonly 
used,  but  P.  Bleo  is  equally  as  good),  for  the  purpose  of  get- 
ting high  or  rafter  plants.  A  young  shoot  is  cleft-grafted 
into  any  portion  of  the  pereskia  which  has  become  hard,  and 
the  cion  is  held  in  place  by  a  cactus  spine  passed  through  it. 
Several  cions  may  be  inserted  along  the  sides  of  the  stock. 

Eranthemum.     Acanlhacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  root  readily  in  spring  in  peaty  soil,  in  a 
close  frame  where  there  is  a  bottom  heat  of  about  70°. 

Eranthis  (Winter  Aconite).     Ranunculacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  division. 
Eremostachys.     Labiatce. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds  or  division. 
Eremurus.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions. 
Erica  (Heath).     Ericaceae. 

Will  grow  from  seeds,  but  these  are  used  generally  to 
secure  new  varieties.  Commonly  propagated  by  very  short 
cuttings,  taken  from  the  tips,  or  made  of  the  lower  young 
growth.  Carefully  remove  the  leaves  from  the  lower  parts  of 
the  cutting,  which  should  be  about  one  inch  long,  and  then 
insert  rather  closely  in  pots,  which  should  be  filled  two-thirds 
with  crocks,  the  remainder  being  fine  sandy  peat  with  a  layer 
of  clean,  compact  sand  on  the  surface.  Cover  with  glass. 
Water  well,  and  place  in  a  temperature  of  about  60°. 

Erigeron,  including  Phalacroloma,  Polyactidium.      Composite?. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds  or  divisions. 
Erinus.     Scrophularinece. 

Seeds  and  divisions.  After  becoming  established,  they 
propagate  themselves  by  seed. 

Eriobotrya.     See  Photinia. 
Eriodendron.     Malvaceae. 

Raised  from  seeds  sown  in  sandy  soil,  in  heat. 
Eriogonum.     Polygonacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seed  or  division. 


!  84  THE  NURSER  Y-BOOK. 

Eriosema.     Leguminoscc. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  cuttings. 

Eriostemon.     Rutacer. 

Cuttings,  in  sandy  peat  in  spring,  under  glass,  and  with 
gentle  heat.  Nurserymen  propagate  by  grafting  on  small 
stocks  of  correa. 

Erodium  (Heron's  Bill).      Geraniacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds  or  divisions. 

Erpetion  (Australian  Violet).      Violariece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  also  by  division  and  cuttings. 
Eryngium  (Eryngo).      Umbelliferce. 

Seeds  or  carefully  made  divisions  may  be  used  for  increas- 
ing the  species. 

Erysimum  (Hedge  Mustard).      Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  the  perennials  by  seeds  and  divisions. 

Erythraea,  Gyrandra,  Hippocentaurea  (Centaury).     Gentianece. 
Propagated  by  seeds  or  divisions. 

Erythrina  (Coral-tree).     Leguminosae. 

Seeds.  Young  shoots  can  be  taken  in  spring  or  early  sum- 
mer with  a  heel,  and  placed  in  sandy  soil,  on  a  slight  bottom 
heat. 

Erythronium  (Dog's-tooth  Violet).     Liliacece. 

Seeds.  Offsets  or  bulbels  are  usually  employed,  taken  as 
soon  as  the  leaves  dry  away  after  flowering,  inserting  the 
bulbels  about  three  inches  deep. 

Erythroxylon,  including  Sethia.     Linece.  • 

Place  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  sand  under  a 
glass,  in  heat. 

Escallonia.     Saxifrages. 

Suckers,  layers.  Cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  strike  in 
sand,  when  covered  with  glass.  Also  by  seeds. 

Escheria.     See  Gloxinia. 

Eschscholtzia,  Chryseis  (California  Poppy).     Papaveracece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  spring  or  autumn  where  the  plants 
are  to  flower. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  185 

Eucalyptus   (Gum-tree).     Myrtacea. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  thinly  in  pans 
or  pots  of  light,  sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  frames.  Also  by 
cuttings. 

Eucharis.     Amaryllidece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  warm  house.  Off- 
sets or  bulbels  should  be  removed  and  potted  off  singly. 

Eucomis.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  by  bulbels. 
Eucryphia.     Rosacea. 

The  cuttings  of  young  shoots  are  planted  in  sand  under 
glass. 

Eugenia.     See  Myrtus. 
Eulalia.      Graminece. 

Freely  increased  by  seed  or  division. 

Euonymous  (Burning-bush,  Strawberry-tree,  Wahoo).      Celas- 
trinece. 

Grown  from  seeds,  cuttings  and  layers.  Cuttings  usually 
make  better  plants  than  layers.  The  deciduous  species  are 
usually  grown  from  hard-wood  cuttings,  but  the  evergreen 
kinds  are  started  under  glass,  from  cuttings  of  the  growing 
or  ripened  wood.  The  small  and  weak  kinds  are  grafted  on 
the  stronger  ones.  The  evergreen  species  will  grow  upon 
the  deciduous  kinds. 

Eupatorium.     Compositce. 

Cuttings  of  the  growing  wood,  under  glass  in  early  spring, 
is  the  common  method  of  propagation.  Seeds  can  also  be 
used  for  some  species. 

Euphorbia,  including  Poinsettia  (Spurge).     Euphorbiacece. 

By  seeds,  especially  the  annual  species.  The  perennial 
shrubby  sorts  are  increased  by  cuttings  in  a  strong  heat. 
Some  species  are  propagated  by  divisions. 

Eurya.      Ternslrcemiacece. 

Propagated  by  soft  cuttings,  inserted  in  sand  under  a  glass 
in  heat. 

Eurycles.     Amaryllidece. 

Offsets  or  bulbels,  in  spring. 


APR  1  1891 


1 86  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Eurybia.     See  Olearia. 

Eustylis.     See  ttemastylLs. 

Euterpe.     Palma. 
Seeds  in  heat. 

Eutoca.     See  Phacelia. 

Evening  Primrose.     See  CEnothera. 

Exacum.      Gentianea. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  spring,  in  bottom  heat. 

Exochorda.     Rosacece. 

Grown  from  seeds,  layers,  cuttings  and  suckers.  Seeds 
are  difficult  to  procure.  Layering  in  June  is  a  common  prac- 
tice. Various  kinds  of  cuttings  are  employed,  but  the  best 
results  follow  short,  soft  cuttings,  taken  from  forced  plants 
and  set  deep  in  shallow  flats  of  sand.  They  require  a  very 
strong  bottom  heat,  a  close  frame,  and  the  water  should  be 
applied  in  a  spray  upon  the  foliage.  Cuttings  are  sometimes 
grafted  upon  pieces  of  roots.  It  is  regarded  as  a  difficult 
plant  to  propagate. 

Fabiana.     Solanacece. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds  and  cuttings. 
Fagus  (Beech).      Cupuliferce. 

Commonly  grown  from  the  nuts,  which  should  be  stratified 
and  sown  very  early  in  spring.  They  may  be  sown  immed- 
iately after  they  are  gathered,  if  they  can  be  protected  from 
vermin.  The  named  varieties  are  grafted  upon  the  Euro- 
pean or  American  species. 

Fair  Maids  of  France.     See  Ranunculus. 
Fan-palm.     See  Corypha. 
Farfugium.     See  Senecio. 
Fedia.     See  Patrinia. 
Felicia.     Compositce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  inserted  in  sandy  soil, 
under  a  glass. 

Fennel  (Fceniculum,  various  species).      Umbelliferce . 

Seeds,  usually  in  spring. 
Fennel  Flower.     See  Nigella. 
Fenugreek  (Trigonella  Fcenum-Grcecum).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds. 


THE  NURSERY  LiST.  !8y 

Fenzlia.     See  Gilia. 

Ferns.     Filices.  . 

Where  division  is  possible,  it  is  the  easiest  and  most  econ- 
omical method  of  propagation,  and  should  be  practiced  ju~t 
before  the  plant  starts  into  growth.  The  spores  can  be  sown 
in  February  and  March,  or  earlier,  under  glass  in  a  warm 
propagating  pit.  Partly  fill  a  suitable  sized  pot  or  pan  with 
coarse  peat,  giving  plenty  of  drainage;  make  the  surface 
level,  and  on  this  place  three-quarter  inch  cubes  of  well- 
seasoned  peat  which  is  rather  dry,  watering  the  whole  and 
scattering  on  the  spores  evenly.  Cover  with  a  pane  of  glass, 
and  place  in  a  partial  shade.  While  the  process  which  cor- 
responds to  germination  is  going  on,  great  care  must  be  given 
to  the  water  supply.  This  is  sometimes  done  by  placing  the 
pots  or  pans  in  a  saucer,  from  which  they  can  suck  the  water 
up.  Overhead  watering  may  be  used,  and  often  is,  but  will 
sometimes  introduce  worms  and  the  like. 

The  young  plants  should  be  pricked  out  when  the  true  leaf 
appears,  and  they  are  large  enough  to  handle.  The  same 
careful  treatment  should  be  continued  until  they  are  estab- 
lished in  pots. 

There  is  not  much  difficulty  in  getting  the  young  plants, 
if  fresh  spores  are  obtainable,  but  there  is  a  good  deal  of 
trouble  in  handling  the  seedlings,  and  establishing  them  in 
their  growing  quarters. 

Most  ferns  are  readily  propagated  by  means  of  spores,  as 
directed  above  and  on  page  24.  Some  species  rarely  produce 
spores  in  cultivation,  however,  and  in  other  cases,  as  in  some 
treeferns,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  rear  the  young  plants  after 
the  spores  have  germinated.  In  all  such  cases,  recourse  must 
be  had  to  separation,  division  or  layerage.  There  are  some 
species,  as  Asplenium  bulbiferum,  Cystopteris  bulbifera  and 
others,  which  bear  small  bulblets  or  detachable  buds  on  their 
fronds.  These  buds  often  vegetate  while  still  attached  to  the 
frond.  They  may  be  removed  either  before  or  after  show- 
ing signs  of  vegetation,  and  set  in  pots  in  a  close  propagat- 
ing frame,  or  under  a  bell-glass.  Ferns  which  make  broad 
crowns  may  be  divided,  and  this  is  the  common  mode  with 
many  species.  Some  species  produce  creeping  root-stocks, 
which  emit  roots  if  pegged  down  into  a  pot  of  soil  or  on  a  block 
of  peat.  Several  plants  can  often  be  produced  from  such  a 
layer.  All  these  operations  are  best  performed  in  late  win- 
ter, before  the  new  growth  be^rs.  The  tree  ferns  are  rarely 
propagated  to  any  extent  in  cultivation,  but  young  plants  are 
imported  from  their  native  countries. 


!88  THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 

Fern,  Sweet.     See  Comptonia. 
Ferraria,  Tigridia.     Iridece. 

Propagated -by  means  of  seeds  and  bulbels. 
Feverfew,     See  Chrysanthemum. 
Ficus.     Urticacece. 

The  greenhouse  species  are  propagated  by  layers  and  cut- 
tings. The  cuttings  are  handled  in  a  close  frame,  and  a  leaf 
or  two  is  usually  left  on  them.  For  Ficus  Carica,  see  Fig. 
Propagation  by  seeds  is  sometimes  used  in  the  edible  figs, 
but  is  not  easy  with  the  ornamental  sorts.  F.  elastica,  F. 
Indica,  etc.,  are  increased  by  cuttings,  planted  in  sand  or 
sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  good  bottom  heat,  in  a  frame  under 
glass.  The  large  cuttings  should  be  staked,  and  care  must 
be  taken  to  remove  the  milky  juice  before  planting.  Any 
winter  month  is  good,  before  growth  begins.  Last  season's 
wood  should  be  used. 
Fig  (Ficus  Carica).  Urlicacece. 

Figs  grow  readily  from  the  plump  seeds  in  the  commercial 
fruit.  Wash  out  the  seeds,  and  those  that  sink  may  be  sown 
in  a  frame.  The  young  plants  will  appear  in  three  or  four 
weeks.  In  from  three  to  five  years  the  plants  will  begin  to 
bear.  New  varieties  are  obtained  in  this  way. 

Varieties  of  the  fig  are  multiplied  with  ease  by  layers, 
suckers  and  cuttings.  Make  cuttings  of  mature  wood  in  au- 
tumn, cutting  just  below  a  bud.  Scarce  varieties  may  be 
multiplied  by  single  eye  cuttings.  Fig  cuttings  are  handled 
in  the  same  way  as  grape  cuttings.  Some  prefer,  however, 
to  place  the  cuttings  where  the  tree  is  to  stand.  A  well-grown 
plant  will  bear  at  two  or  three  years  of  age. 

The  fig  is  readily  budded  and  grafted,  but  these  methods 
are  seldom  employed,  because  the  plant  is  so  easily  multi- 
plied by  cuttings.  Shield,  ring  or  tubular  buddings  are  em- 
ployed. Various  methods  of  grafting  are  adapted  to  it,  and 
cleft-grafting  is  usually  employed  on  old  plants. 

Filbert,     See  Corylus. 
Fir.     See  Abies,  Pinus  and  Picea. 
Fire-pink.     See  Silene. 
Fittonia.     Acanthacece. 

Increased  by  division,  and  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened 
shoots,  planted  in  sandy  loam,  in  bottom  heat. 

Fitzroya.     Com 'ferae. 

Seeds.     Increased  also  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots 


THE  NUR^R'*   LIST.  ^ 

Flax.     See  Linum. 

Flower-de-Luce  (Fleur-de-Lis}.     See  Iri<= 

Fontanesia.     Oleacece. 

Layers  are  used  ;  also  cuttings,  planted  under  a  hand-glass 
in  autumn.  Or  it  may  be  grafted  on  the  privet. 

Forget-me-not.     See  Myosotis. 

Forsythia  (Golden  Bell).      Oleacece. 

Propagated  extensively  by  green  cuttings  in  summer,  in  a 
frame ;  also  grown  from  ripe  cuttings  taken  in  fall  and  win- 
ter, and  planted  in  the  open  air  in  early  spring. 

Fothergilla.     Hamamehdcce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  in  a  peaty  soil ;  by 
layers. 

Four-o'clock.     See  Mirabilis. 
Foxglove.     See  Digitalis. 
Fragaria.     See  Strawberry. 
Franciscea.     See  Brunfelsia. 
Francoa.     Saxifragece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  early  spring  in  a  cool  frame.  Also  by 
division. 

Frangula.     See  Rhamnus. 

Frankenia,  including  Beatsonia,  Hypericopsis.     Frankeniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions. 
Fraxinella.     See  Dictamnus. 
Fraxinus  (Ash).     Oleacece. 

Propagated  chiefly  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified. 
The  named  sorts  are  budded  upon  seedling  stocks  if  the  sorts 
are  upright  growers,  or  top-grafted  if  they  are  weepers.  Both 
the  European  and  American  species  are  used  for  stocks. 

Freesia.     Iridece. 

Increased  readily  by  seed,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  pots  of 
light,  sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  a  sunny  position,  in  a  cool 
frame.  By  bulbeJs. 

Fremontia.     Malvaceae. 

Seeds  may  be  used ;  or  cuttings,  in  spring,  may  be  struck 
under  a  hand-glass 


igo  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

French  Bean    (Varieties  of  Phaseolus  vulgaris  and  P.  nanus], 

Leguminosce. 
Propagated  by  seeds. 
Freycinetia.     Pandanece. 
Increased  by  offsets. 
Fringe-tree.     See  Chionanthus. 
Fritillaria.     Liliacece. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  where  the  plants  are  to  stand 
the  first  year.  Bulbels  and  division. 

Fuchsia  (Ladies'  Ear  Drop).      Onagrarice. 

Fuchsias  grow  readily  from  seeds,  which  should  be  sown 
as  soon  as  ripe,  and  blooming  plants  ought  to  be  obtained  in 
eight  or  ten  months.  Cuttings  of  the  young  growth  strike 
quickly  and  easily.  Blooming  plants  of  most  sorts  can  be 
obtained  in  four  or  five  months. 

Fumaria  (Fumitory).     Papaveracece. 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
Funkia,   Hosta  (Plantain  Lily,  White  Day  Lily).     Liliacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  dividing  the  stools  during  the 
early  autumn,  or  when  they  begin  to  start  in  spring.     Only 
strong,  healthy  clumps  should  be  divided,  and  each  portion 
should  contain  several  crowns. 
Furze.     See  Ulex. 
Gaillardia.     Compositce. 

The  annual  sorts  are  propagated  by  seeds  started  under 
glass  ;    the  perennial    kinds  by  seeds,  cuttings  or  division. 
Sometimes  root  cuttings  are  used. 
Galanthus  (Snowdrop).     Amaryllidece 

Commonly  by  bulbels.     Rarely  by  seeds. 
Galax,  Erythrorhiza,  Solonandra.     Diapensiacece. 

Propagated  by  divisions  of  strong  clumps  in  autumn. 
Galega  (Goat's  Rue).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  in  spring  ;  also  by  division. 
Galtonia.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  bulbels  or  seeds. 
Garcinia,  Cambogia,  Mangostana,  Oxycarpus.     Guttiferce. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  ripened  shoots  should  be  inserted  in 
sand  under  a  glass,  in  strong  bottom  heat. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  jgj 

Gardenia,  including  Rothmannia.     Rubiacece. 

Strong,  healthy  cuttings  may  be  taken  with  a  heel,  early 
in  the  year  being  the  best  time,  but  any  season  will  do  when 
suitable  cuttings  can  be  secured.  They  should  be  placed  in 
bottom  heat  of  about  75°,  in  a  frame. 

Garlic  {A Ilium  sativuni).     Liliacece. 

By  "cloves"  or  divisions  of  the  bulb.  In  the  north  these 
are  planted  in  the  spring,  but  in  warm  climates  they  may  be 
planted  in  the  fall. 

Garrya,  including  Fadyenia.     Cornacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood 
in  sandy  loam  in  August,  and  shaded  until  rooted.  Also  by 
budding  on  Aucuba  Japonica  at  the  crown.  Plant  sufficiently 
deep  to  cover  the  bud  or  graft. 

Gasteria.     See  Aloe. 

Gaultheria  (Boyberry,  Wintergreen).     Ericacen:. 

Increased  by  seeds,  divisions,  layers  and  cuttings  under 
glass. 
Gaura.     Onagrariece. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  spring  or  fall  in  the  open  ground. 
Gaylussacia.     See  Vaccinium, 
Gazania,  Moehnia,  Mussinia.     Composilce. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions.     Make  cuttings  in  July 
or  August,  from  the  side  shoots  near  the  base  of  the  plant ; 
these  should  be  placed  in  a  sandy  soil,  in  a  frame. 
Gelsemium,  Leptopteris,  Medicia.     Loganiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  under  glass. 
Genista.     See  Cytisus. 
Gentiana  (Gentian).     Gentianece, 

Seeds  and  division.  The  seeds  germinate  slowly,  and  often 
with  difficulty.  They  often  lie  dormant  a  year  or  more. 
They  should  be  sown  in  well-sifted  light  loam,  in  pans  or 
flats,  and  kept  cool  and  shaded.  Division  must  be  carefully 
done,  or  the  plants  will  suffer. 
Geonoma.  Palmce. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  suckers. 
Geranium.     Geraniacece. 

Mostly  by  seeds  and   divisions.      For   the  conservatory 
.    plants  known  as  geraniums,  see  Pelargonium. 


I92  THE    NURSERY-BOOK. 

Gerardia.     Scrophularinece. 

Propagated,  but  often  with  difficulty,  by  seeds,  sown  in 
the  open  air  or  in  a  frame  or  cool  house. 

Gesnera.      Gesneracece. 

Seeds,  and  cuttings  of  the  shoots  and  leaves.  Handled  in 
essentially  the  same  manner  as  Gloxinia,  which  see. 

Gethyllis.     Amaryllidece. 

They  may  be  increased  by  bulbels  or  seeds. 
Geum,  including  Sieversia  (Avens).     Kosacece. 
Gherkin.     See  Cucumber. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds  or  division. 
Gilia,  including  Fenzlia.     Polemoniacecc. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  spring  in  the  open  ground  or 
frame,  in  a  rather  light  soil. 

Gilibertia.     Araliacece. 

Cuttings,  inserted  in  sand  in  a  gentle  heat. 
Gillenia.     Rosacece. 

Increased  readily  by  dividing  the  roots  in  spring  ;  also  by 
seeds. 

Gilliesia.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  bulbels. 
Gilliflower.  See  Matthiola. 
Ginkgo,  Salisburia  (Maidenhair-tree).  Coniferce. 

Seeds,  which  are  mostly  imported,  and  which  should  be 
stratified.  Also  by  layers,  and  by  cuttings  of  either  green  or 
ripe  wood.  The  cuttings  are  handled  under  glass.  Named 
varieties  are  grafted  upon  common  stocks. 

Ginseng.     See  Aralia. 

Gladiolus.     Iridece. 

Seeds,  which  are  commonly  sown  in  pans  in  spring,  in  ihe 
house  ;  or  they  may  be  sown  in  the  border.  Seedlings  flower 
in  two  or  three  years.  The  common  method  of  propagation 
is  by  means  of  cormels  (see  page  29,  and  Fig.  16).  These  are 
removed  from  the  parent  corm  and  planted  in  the  open, 
where  some  of  them  will  flower  the*  same  season,  although 
most  of  them  will  require  a  season's  independent  growth  be- 
fore they  flower  If  cormels  are  desired  in  abundance,  the 
large  corms  should  not  be  allowed  to  flower.  Some  varieties 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  193 

do  not  produce  cormels  readily,  and  these  may  be  made  to 
bear  them  by  cutting  or  ringing  (page  30).  A  new  corm  is 
formed  above  the  old  one  each  year  (Fig.  16). 

Glastonbury-thorn.     See  Crataegus. 

Gleditschia.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  spring  about  one  inch  deep 
They  should  be  soaked  in  hot  water  before  being  sown.  Va- 
rieties propagated  by  grafts  upon  seedling  stock. 

Gleichenia.     See  Ferns. 
Globe  Flower.     See  Trollius. 
Globular  ia.     Selaginea. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division  or  cuttings. 
Gloriosa,  Clynostylis,  Methonica.     Liliacece. 

Seeds  should  be  inserted  singly  in  small  pots,  in  a  ligh1 
sandy  soil,  and  plunged  in  bottom  heat.  Bulbels,  which 
should  be  carefully  removed  from  the  old  bulbs  when  start- 
ing them  in  spring,  as  the  roots  are  very  brittle. 

Gloxinia,  Escheria,  Salisia.     Gesneracece. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  the  latter  part  of  winter,  in  well- 
drained  pots  or  small  pans  of  finely  sifted  soil,  of  peat,  leaf- 
mould  and  sand  in  about  equal  proportions.  The  seeds 
should  be  sown  thinly  and  covered  slightly,  then  carefully 
watered,  and  placed  in  a  temperature  of  about  70°  and  kept 
shaded.  Cuttings  of  the  shoots  may  be  taken  when  the  old 
tubers  are  starting  in  spring,  and  placed  in  a  close  propagat- 
ing frame.  Leaf-cuttings,  with  a  small  portion  of  the  petiole 
attached,  give  excellent  results,  especially  when  the  leaves 
are  firm  and  nearly  matured.  Leaf  cuttings  are  made  in  the 
various  ways  in  which  begonia  leaf-cuttings  are  made  (see 
pp.  60-72,  Figs.  59,  60).  Also  grafted  (see  page  88). 

Glycine.     See  Wistaria. 
Glycosmis.     Rulacece. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  cuttings,  which  are  commonly  in- 
serted in  sand  under  glass,  often  in  heat. 

Glycyrrhiza,  including  Liquiritia  (Liquorice).     Legummosai. 

Propagated  by  division  and  by  seeds. 
Godetia.     See  CEnothera. 
Golden  Rod.     See  Solidago.     fe- 
Goldfussia.     See  Strobilanthus 


i94 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Gomphia  (Button  Flower).     Ochnacecc. 

Cuttings  of  firm  young  shoots  should  be  placed  in  sand 
under  glass,  in  heat. 

Gomphocarpus.     Asclepiadece. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  under  glass  in  spring  ;  or  cuttings 
may  be  made  of  small  side  shoots  when  the  plant  is  com- 
mencing new  growth,  and  placed  in  sand  under  glass. 

Gompholobium.     Leguminosce. 

Cuttings,  which  should  be  made  of  young  shoots  during 
spring,  and  placed  under  glass. 

Gomphrena.     See  Celosia. 
GonolobllS.     Asclepiadece. 

Seeds,  divisions,  and  cuttings  under  glass. 
Goodenia.     Goodenoviece. 

Seed.  During  spring,  cuttings  will  root  freely  if  placed 
under  glass. 

Goodia.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  may  be  used.  Cuttings  of  young  shoots  may  be 
made  during  spring,  and  placed  in  a  frame. 

Gooseberry    (Ribes   Grossularia  and  R.  oxyacanthoides}.      Saxi- 
frages. 

Seeds,  for  the  raising  of  new  varieties,  should  be  sown  as 
soon  as  well  cured,  in  loamy  or  sandy  soil,  or  they  may  be 
stratified  and  sown  together  with  the  sand  in  the  spring. 
Cuttings  six  to  eight  inches  long  of  the  mature  wood,  inserted 
two-thirds  their  length,  usually  grow  readily,  especially  if 
taken  in  August  or  September  and  stored  during  winter,  in 
the  same  way  as  currant  cuttings.  Single  eye  cuttings  may 
be  used  for  rare  kinds  Stronger  plants  are  usually  obtained 
by  layers,  and  the  English  varieties  are  nearly  always  lay- 
ered in  this  country.  Mound-layering  is  usually  employed, 
the  English  varieties  being  allowed  to  remain  in  layerage  two 
years,  but  the  American  varieties  only  one  (Fig.  21).  Layered 
plants  are  usually  set  in  nursery  rows  fora  year  after  removal 
from  the  stools.  Green-layering  during  summer  is  sometimes 
practiced  for  new  or  rare  varieties.  Strong  plants  may  also 
be  procured  by  tip-layering,  as  in  the  black  raspberry  (see 
P-  33)-  If  it  is  desired  to  train  the  weaker  gooseberries  in 
tree  form,  they  may  be  grafted  upon  the  stronger  growing 
varieties. 


THE  NURSE R  Y  LIST. 


195 


Gordonia,  including  Polyspora.      Ternstrcemiacece. 
Propagated  by  seeds  or  layers. 

Gorse.     See  Ulex. 

Goumi.     See  Elaeagnus. 

Gourds  (Cucurbita  Pepo,  Lagenaria,  etc.).      Cucurbitaceae. 
Seeds,  after  the  weather  is  settled  and  ground  is  warm. 

Grammanthes.      Crassulacca >.. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  in  a  warm  house. 

Granadilla  (Passijlora  edulis,  etc.).     Passiflorece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or,  less  easily,  by  cuttings. 

Grape  (Vitis,  several  species).      Vitacece. 

Grape  seedlings  are  very  easily  grown.  If  the  ground  is 
fit  and  there  is  no  danger  from  vermin,  the  seeds  may  be 
sown  in  the  fall,  but  they  are  usually  stratified  and  sown  in 
spring.  They  come  readily  if  sown  out-doors,  but  some  pre- 
fer to  force  them  under  glass  with  a  mild  bottom  heat. 
Seedlings  do  not  "  come  true,"  and  they  are  therefore  grown 
only  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  new  sorts. 

The  grape  is  very  readily  multiplied  by  layers,  either  of 
the  ripe  or  green  wood.  The  ripe  wood  or  canes  may  be 
layered  either  in  fall  or  spring,  but  spring  is  usually  chosen. 
The  cane  is  simply  covered  up  two  or  three  inches  deep,  and 
nearly  every  bud  will  produce  a  plant.  In  August  or  Sep- 
tember the  layer  should  be  lifted  and  cut  up  into  plants. 
Better  plants  are  obtained  if  only  the  strongest  canes  are 
used  and  only  a  part  of  the  buds  on  each  are  allowed  to 
grow.  The  cane  is  usually  cut  back  to  four  or  five  buds,  or 
if  very  strong  plants  are  desired  only  one  bud  is  left  on  each 
layer.  Canes  of  the  previous  year,  those  recently  matured, 
are  preferred,  although  wood  two  or  three  years  old  may  be 
used,  but  in  this  case  it  is  usually  necessary  to  cut  or  other- 
wise wound  the  joint  in  order  to  induce  the  formation  of 
roots.  Vines  or  stools  grown  for  the  production  of  layers 
should  be  cut  back  severely  in  fall  or  winter,  to  induce  a  vig- 
orous growth  of  canes  the  following  season.  These  canes 
are  then  layered  the  succeeding  fall  or  spring.  Only  a  part  of 
the  canes  are  layered  from  any  'stool,  a  part  being  allowed  to 
grow  for  cutting  back  the  next  fall  in  order  to  get  another 
crop  of  canes.  In  some  varieties  which  do  not  strike  readily 
.  from  cuttings,  layering  is  considerably  practiced  by  nursery- 
men. The  Delaware  is  often  grown  in  this  way.  Extra 

;  strong  layers  can  be  secured  by  layering  in  pots.     A  large 


ig6  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

pot,  filled  with  rich  soil,  is  plunged  beneath  the  layer.  In 
this  manner  a  layer  may  be  rooted  and  separated  even  while 
carrying  fruit.  Layering  in  pots  is  employed  only  in  special 
cases. 

Green-layering  is  sometimes  practiced  upon  new  and  scarce 
varieties,  but  strong  plants  are  not  obtained  unless  they  are 
well  handled  by  forceful  culture  after  they  are  separated. 
The  growing  cane  is  layered  in  mid-summer,  usually  by 
serpentine  layering. 

Cuttings  are  usually  employed  by  nurserymen  to  propa- 
gate the  grape.  These  are  made  in  many  fashions.  In  all 
ordinary  cases  hard-wood  cuttings  are  made  from  the  ripened 
canes  in  autumn  or  winter  when  the  vines  are  pruned.  It  is 
advisable  to  take  the  cuttings  before  the  canes  have  been 
exposed  to  great  cold.  Select  only  those  canes  which  are 
well  matured,  solid  and  rather  short-jointed.  In  common 
practice,  the  cuttings  are  cut  into  two-bud  length,  the  lower 
cut  being  made  close  to  the  bud.  The  cuttings  will  range 
from  six  to  ten  inches  in  length.  Some  prefer  three-bud 
cuttings  (Fig.  43),  but  unless  the  cane  is  very  short-jointed 
such  cuttings  are  too  long  to  be  planted  and  handled  econom- 
ically. Three-bud  cuttings  usually  give  stronger  plants  the 
first  season  because  roots  start  from  both  joints  as  a  rule. 
Very  strong  plants  are  obtained  from  mallet  cuttings  (Fig. 
45),  but  as  only  one  such  cutting  can  be  made  from  a  cane, 
unless  the  cane  bears  very  strong  branches,  they  are  not 
much  used.  Various  methods  of  peeling,  slitting  and  slicing 
cuttings  are  recommended,  in  order  to  extend  the  callusing 
process  but  they  are  not  used  in  common  or  commercial 
practice.  The  cuttings  are  tied  in  bundles  of  50  or  100,  and 
stored  in  sand,  moss,  or  sawdust  in  a  cellar,  until  spring, 
when  they  are  planted  in  rows  in  the  open.  Some  varie- 
ties, of  which  the  Delaware  is  an  example,  do  not  strike 
readily  from  cuttings.  Some  growers  start  common  cuttings 
of  these  under  glass  in  spring.  Others  bury  the  bundles  of 
cuttings  in  a  warm  exposure  in  the  fall,  with  the  butt  ends  up 
and  about  level  with  the  surface  of  the  ground.  This 
affords  bottom  heat  to  the  butts  and  induces  callusing.  At 
the  approach  of  cold  weather  the  cuttings  are  removed  to  a 
cellar,  or  are  heavily  mulched  and  allowed  to  remain  where 
buried.  Storing  is  safer.  Some  growers  obtain  the  same 
results  by  burying  upside  down  in  a  cellar.  These  slow- 
rooting  sorts  often  start  well  if  they  are  simply  kept  in  a 
warm  cellar — but  where  the  buds  will  not  swell — all  winter, 
as  the  callusing  is  then  hastened.  At  the  end  of  the  first 
season  the  plants  may  be  transplanted.  The  plants  are 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  igj 

often  sold  at  this  age,  but  buyers  usually  prefer  two-year-old 
plants. 

Single  bud  or  "eye"  cuttings  are  largely  used  for  the 
newer  and  rarer  varieties.  These  are  cut  from  the  canes  in 
the  fall,  the  same  as  long  cuttings,  and  are  stored  in  boxes  of 
sand  or  moss.  A  month  before  the  weather  become  settled, 
these  boxes  may  be  taken  into  a  house  or  greenhouse,  or  put 
in  a  mild  hot-bed,  to  induce  the  formation  of  the  callus. 
They  may  then  be  planted  out-doors,  and  a  fair  proportion  of 
most  varieties  may  be  expected  to  grow.  The  best  and  com- 
monest way  of  handling  eyes,  however,  is  to  start  them 
under  glass.  They  are  planted  horizontally  or  nearly  so  and 
about  an  inch  deep  in  sand  or  sandy  earth  in  a  cool  green- 
house in  late  winter — in  February  in  the  northern  states — 
and  in  about  six  weeks  the  plants  will  be  large  enough  to  pot 
off  or  to  transplant  into  cold  frames  or  a  cool  house.  If 
only  a  few  plants  are  to  be  grown  they  may  be  started  in 
pots.  When  the  weather  is  thoroughly  settled,  they  are 
transferred  to  nursery  rows,  and  by  fall  they  will  make  fine 
plants.  There  are  various  ways  recommended  for  the  cut- 
ting of  these  eyes — as  cutting  the  ends  obliquely  up  or 
down,  shaving  off  the  bark  below  the  bud,  and  so  on--but 
the  advantages  of  these  fashions  are  imaginary.  A  good 
eye-cutting  is  shown  in  Fig.  50.  The  foreign  grapes  are 
propagated  by  eyes  in  the  north. 

Soft  cuttings  are  sometimes  used  to  multiply  new  kinds. 
These  may  be  taken  in  summer  from  the  growing  canes,  but 
the  plants  are  usually  forced  during  winter  for  the  purpose 
of  giving  extra  wood.  Cuttings  are  taken  off  as  fast  as  buds 
form  during  the  winter,  and  they  are  forced  in  close  frames 
with  a  good  bottom  heat.  The  cuttings  may  comprise  two 
buds,  with  the  leaf  at  the  upper  one  allowed  to  remain, 
or  they  may  bear  but  a  single  eye,  in  which  case  the  leaf,  or 
the  most  of  it,  is  left  on.  This  rapid  multiplication  from 
small,  soft  wood  usually  gives  poor  plants  ;  but  strong  plants 
may  be  obtained  by  allowing  the  wood  to  become  well 
hardened  before  it  is  used.  Soft  cuttings  will  root  in  two  or 
three  weeks  under  good  treatment. 

In  order  to  secure  extra  strong  plants  from  single  buds, 
the  eyes  may  be  saddle-grafted  or  whip-grafted  upon  a  root 
two  or  three  inches  long.  The  root  grafts  are  then  treated 
in  the  same  way  as  eye  cuttings,  only  that  they  are  usually 
grown  in  pots  from  the  start. 

The  vine  may  be  grafted  with  ease  by  any  method.  Cleft- 
grafting  is  commonly  employed  upon  old  plants.  The  cions 
are  inserted  on  the  crown  of  the  plant,  three  or  four  inches 


igg  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

below  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The  cleft  is  bound  with 
string  and  then  covered  with  earth,  no  wax  being  necessary. 
Young  plants  are  usually  whip-grafted  at  the  crown,  either 
in-doors  or  out-doors.  Grafting  the  vine  is  mostly  confined 
to  Europe,  California,  and  other  countries  where  the  Euro- 
pean grape  (Vitis  vinifera]  is  grown,  as  that  species  must  be 
grafted  upon  some  other  stock  in  order  to  resist  the  phyllox- 
era. The  common  wild  frost-grape  (  Vitis  riparia]  is  the  most 
popular  stock.  The  union  in  these  cases  must  be -two  or 
three  inches  above  the  ground,  to  prevent  the  cion  from  tak- 
ing root.  The  union  is  wound  with  waxed  muslin,  and  the 
earth  is  heaped  about  it  until  it  has  healed.  Grafting  may 
be  done  out-doors  in  winter  or  spring.  In  the  north,  winter 
grafts  are  likely  to  be  heaved  by  frosts,  and  late  spring  grafts, 
made  as  the  leaves  are  pushing,  are  probably  best. 

The  vine  is  frequently  inarched,  and  early  in  spring  it  can 
be  budded  by  ordinary  methods. 

Seed-grafting  is  a  curious  practice,  which  may  be  applied 
to  the  grape  (see  page  90). 

Grape  Hyacinth.     See  Muscari. 
Graptophyllum,  Earlia.     Acanthacece. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  cuttings  of  rather  firm  young  shoots 
placed  in  a  frame  with  some  heat. 

Gratiola,  Sophronanthe  (Hedge  Hyssop).     Scrophularineoe. 

Seeds.  Propagated  readily  by  dividing  the  roots  in  spring 
Grevillea.  Proteacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  under  glass  in  February  ;  alse 
by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood. 

Grewia,  Chadara,  Mallococca.     Tiliacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  may  be  struck  in  sand  under  glass,  witk 
heat. 

Grindelia.     Composite?. 

Seeds,  sown  in  the  border  or  under  a  frame.  Divisions 
Cuttings. 

Ground-Cherry.     See  Physalis. 
Ground-Nut.     See  Apios  ;  also  Peanut. 
Groundsel.     See  Senecio. 
Guaiacum.     Zygophyllece. 

Ripened  cuttings  in  spring,  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  Ig9 

Guava  (Psidium,  several  species).     Myrtacece. 

The  guavas  grow  readily  from  seeds,  and  plants  will  often 
bloom  when  a  year  and  a-half  old.  They  may  also  be  mul- 
tiplied by  layers,  and  by  cuttings  either  under  glass  or  in  the 
open. 

Guelder  Rose.     See  Viburnum. 
Guernsey  Lily.     See  Nerine. 
Gumbo.     See  Hibiscus. 
Gum,  Sweet.     See  Liquidambar. 
Gum-tree.     See  Eucalyptus. 
Gunnera.     Haloragece. 

Propagated  by  division.  It  is  very  difficult  to  raise  from 
seed. 

Gustavia,  Pirigara.     Myrtacece. 

Cuttings,  made  of  ripened  shoots  and  handled  in  a  frame 
Gymnema.     Asclepiadece. 

Make  cuttings  of  firm  side  shoots  in  spring,  and  place  in  a 
frame. 

Gymnocladus  (Kentucky  Coffee-tree).     Legumtnosce. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds,  which  start  better  if  soaked  for 
a  few  hours  in  hot  water.  Also  by  root-cuttings. 

Gymnogramme.     See  Ferns. 
Gymnyostachys.     Aroidece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  suckers  and  divisions. 
Gynerium  (Pampas  Grass).      Graminece. 

Seeds,  under  glass  in  the  north.     Also  increased  by  divid- 
ing the  tufts. 
Gynura.     Composite. 

Increased  by  cuttings  and  seeds. 
GypSOphila.      Caryophyllece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division  or  cuttings. 
Habranthus.     See  Zephranthfi*. 
Habrothamnus.     See  Cestrum. 
Hackberry.     See  Celtis. 
Haemanthus  (Blood  Flower).     Amaryllidece. 

Bulbels,  which  should  be  removed  and  potted  when  the 
plants  are  commencing  new  growth,  and  be  kept  in  a  closo 
pit  or  house  till  established.  Seeds  are  rarely  used. 


200  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Haemodorum  (Australian  Bloodroot).      Hcemodoracece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  roots  in  spring. 
Hakea,  Conchium.     Proteacece. 

Well-ripened  cuttings,  placed  in  sandy  peat  under  glass,  in 
a  cool  house.  Seeds,  when  obtainable,  can  be  used. 

Halesia,  Pterostyrax  (Silver-bell  or  Snowdrop  Tree).     Styra- 
cacece.    , 

Seeds,  which  rarely  germinate  till  the  second  year.  They 
should  be  kept  constantly  moist.  Propagation  is  also  effect- 
ed by  layers,  or  by  cuttings  of  the  roots  in  spring  and  autumn. 
Layers  are  commonly  employed  in  this  country. 

Halimodendron  (Salt-tree).     Leguminosa. 

Freely  increased  by  seeds,  layers  or  cuttings.  May  also 
be  grafted  on  common  laburnum. 

Hamamelis  (Witch-hazel).     Hamamelidece. 

All  grow  from  seeds  or  layers,  and  the  Japan  species  suc- 
ceed if  grafted  on  American  species  in  the  greenhouse.  H. 
Virginica  may  be  readily  propagated  by  layers. 

Hamelia.    Rubiacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  which  are  nearly  ripe  will  root  during 
the  early  part  of  summer  under  glass,  with  heat. 

Hamiltonia,  Spermadictyon.     Rubiacece. 

Seeds.     Half-ripened  cuttings,  placed  in  sand  under  glass. 
Hardenbergia.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  may  be  used  ;  also  increased  by  divisions.  Cuttings, 
made  of  the  firm  young  side  shoots  in  spring,  will  grow  if  in- 
serted under  a  bell-glass,  and  placed  in  a  warm  frame  or  pit, 
without  bottom  heat. 

Hardwickia.     Leg^^minosce. 

Propagated  by  ripened  cuttings  in  sand,  in  a  strong  heat. 
Harebell.     See  Campanula. 
Hatchet  Cactus.     See  Pelecyphora. 
Haw,  Hawthorn.     See  Crataegus. 
Hazel.     See  Corylus 
Heartsease.     See  Viola. 
Heath.     See  Erica. 
Heather.     See  Calluna 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  2OI 

Hedera  (Ivy).     Araliaccce. 

Seeds.  Layers.  The  rooted  portions  of  the  vine  may  be 
severed  and  treated  as  independent  plants.  Cuttings  may  be 
made  in  autumn  from  any  firm  shoots,  and  inserted  in  pots 
or  in  the  open  ground.  If  they  are  placed  in  heat  and  kept 
shaded  until  roots  are  formed,  good  plants  are  obtained  much 
sooner  than  when  placed  in  a  cold-frame  or  in  the  open  air. 
Named  varieties  are  grafted  on  the  stock  of  any  common 
strong  climbing  form. 
Hedychium  (Indian  Garland  Flower).  Stitaminece. 

Seeds,  rarely.     Increased    by   dividing   the   rhizomes   in 
spring,  when  the  plants  are  repotted. 
Hedysarum.     Legu-ininosce. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  means  of  seeds  and  division. 
Helenium.     Composite. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  divisions. 

Helianthemum,  including   Fumana     (Rock -Rose,  Sun-Rose). 
Cistinece. 

The  annuals  are  raised  from  seeds.  The  perennials  may 
also  be  raised  from  seeds,  but  it  is  better  to  trust  to  layers 
and  to  cuttings,  which  will  root  freely  in  a  sandy  soil,  if  kept 
shaded  until  established. 

Helianthus,  including  Harpalium  (Sunflower).     Compositce. 

By  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  pots,  and  the  seedlings 
transferred,  or  in  the  open  ground  in  spring.  Also  divisions. 

Helichrysum,  Elichrysum  (Everlastings).     Composilce. 

The  annual  species  and  the  varieties  of  //.  bracteatum  may 
be  raised  from  seed,  sown  in  a  light  heat  in  early  spring, 
and  afterwards  transplanted  ;  or  sown  in  the  open  ground  a 
little  later.  The  perennial  species  are  increased  by  cuttings 
in  spring,  in  a  close  frame  without  heat. 

Heliconia.     Scitaminece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  but  the  best  method  is  by  div- 
ision of  the  root  stock  in  spring  when  growth  commences. 
Separate  pieces  may  be  placed  in  pots,  and  grown  in  a  moist 
stove  temperature,  repotting  when  necessary  ;  or  they  may 
be  planted  out  in  the  stove,  if  desired. 

Heliotropium  (Heliotrope).     Boraginece. 

Seeds.     The  common  practice  is  to  use  cuttings.     These 
can  be  taken  at  almost  any  season,  if  good  growing  shoots 
N.   B. — 14 


202  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

are  to  be  had.  They  start  readily  in  sand  or  soil  on  a  cut- 
ting bench,  or  under  a  frame.  Plants  for  bedding  are  struck 
in  late  winter  from  stocks  which  are  in  a  vigorous  condition 

Helipterum,  including  Astelma,  Rhodanthe.      Composite. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  early  spring,  under  cover. 
Helleborus  (Black  Hellebore,  Christmas  Rose).    Ranunculacecc 

Seeds  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.      Strong  and  healthy 
root  divisions  are  also  employed. 

Helonias.     Liliacecc. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  and  slowly  by  root  divis- 
ions. 

Hemerocallis  (Day  Lily).     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  divisions.     H.  Middendorjii  and  some  others 
by  seed. 

Hemlock  Spruce.     See  Tsuga. 
Hemp.     See  Cannabis. 
Hepatica.     Ranunculacece. 

Can  be  propagated  by  division  ;  also  by  seeds. 
Heracleum  (Cow  Parsley,  Cow  Parsmp).      Umbelliferce. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds  or  divisions. 
Herbertia.     Iridece. 

Propagated  by  means  of  seeds  or  bulbels. 
Herb-Robert.     See  Geranium. 
Hesperis  (Dame  s  Violet,  Rocket).      Crudferce. 

The  single  sorts  are  increased  by  seeds  ;  the  double  forms 
by  carefully  dividing  the  roots,  or  by  cuttings. 

Heterocentron.     Melastomacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings. 
Heucheria  (Alum  Root).     Saxifragece. 

Seeds.     Readily  increased  by  dividing  the  crowns  during 
spring. 

Hevea,  Micrandra,  Siphonia.     Euphorbiaccce. 

Cuttings  should  be  made  of  half-ripened  wood,  and  in- 
serted in  sand  under  glass. 

Hibbertia,  including  Cyclandra,  Pleurandra.     Dilleniacec?. 
Cuttings,  in  sandy  peat  under  glass. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  203 

Hibiscus.     Malvaceae. 

Seeds  sometimes.  Also  by  divisions  and  layers.  Cuttings 
of  green  wood  are  commonly  used,  made  in  summer  for  hardy 
species  or  in  early  spring  for  tender  ones.  Cuttings  of  rip- 
ened wood  may  be  taken  in  fall,  and  stored  until  spring  in  a 
rather  dry  place.  The  variegated  sorts  do  better  if  grafted 
upon  strong  stocks. 

Hicoria,  Carya  (Hickory,  Pecan,  etc.).     Juglandece. 

Increased  chiefly  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  ;  also 
by  root-sprouts.  Seeds  are  sometimes  planted  at  intervals 
in  the  field  where  the  trees  are  to  stand  ;  but  this  practice  is 
not  to  be  recommended.  The  hickory  can  be  grafted.  Best 
results  are  obtained  by  veneer  or  splice-grafting  in  winter, 
on  potted  stocks.  Cleft-grafting  can  be  employed  out-doors. 
Saddle-grafting  upon  young  twigs  is  sometimes  used.  See 
also  Pecan. 
Hippeastrum  (Equestrian  Star).  Amaryllidece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  well-drained  pots  or 
pans  of  sandy  loam,  slightly  covered,  and  placed  in  a  tem- 
perature of  about  65°.  For  increasing  by  divisions — which 
is  the  usual  way — the  old  bulbs  should  be  taken  from  the 
pots  and  carefully  separated,  with  the  least  possible  injury 
to  the  roots.  This  should  be  done  when  the  plants  are  at 
rest,  and  the  offsets  should  be  placed  singly  in  pots.  Keep 
the  bulb  about  two-thirds  above  the  level  of  the  soil,  dispose 
the  roots  evenly,  and  plunge  in  bottom  heat,  in  a  position 
exposed  to  the  light. 
Hippomane,  Mancinella.  Euphorbiacecc , 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  placed  in  sand  under  glass. 
Hippophae  (Sallow  Thorn,  Sea  Buckthorn).     Elaagnacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  suckers,  layers,  and  cuttings  of 
the  roots. 
Hoffmannia,  Higginsia.     Rubiacecc. 

Insert  cuttings  in  sandy  soil  under  cover,  in  bottom  heat. 
Hog  Plum.     See  Spondias. 
Holbcellia.     Berberidece. 

In  spring,  cuttings  may  be  made  of  half-ripened  shoots. 
Holly.     See  Ilex. 
Hollyhock  (Althasa).     Malvaceae. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe — in  summer — in  pots 
or  pans,  and  placed  in  a  slight  bottom  heat  or  in  the  open 


204  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

air.  In  either,  case,  place  the  seedlings  in  3-inch  pots,  and 
winter  in  a  cold-frame.  Dividing  the  roots,  after  flowering  is 
over,  by  separating  the  crown,  so  as  to  preserve  one  or  more 
buds  and  as  many  roots  as  possible  to  each  piece.  Cuttings 
of  young  shoots  three  inches  long,  taken  off  close  to  the  old 
root  at  nearly  the  same  time,  should  be  placed  singly  in  small 
pots  of  light,  sandy  soil  and  kept  close,  and  shaded  in  a  cold- 
frame  until  rooted.  If  cuttings  are  made  during  winter,  a 
gentle  bottom  heat  must  be  given.  Also  grafted  (see  page 
88).  See  also  Althsea. 

Honesty.     See  Lunaria. 

Honey-Locust.     See  Gleditschia. 

Honeysuckle.     See  Lonicera. 

Hop.     See  Humulus. 

Hop  Hornbeam.     See  Ostrya. 

Horehound  (Marrubiunt  vulgar  e}.     Labiatce. 
Seeds,  in  early  spring.     Division. 

Horkelia.     See  Potentilla. 

Hornbeam.     See  Carpinus. 

Horse-Chestnut.     See  ^Esculus. 

Horse-Mint.     See  Monarda. 

Horse-Radish  {Nasturtium  Armorada],      Cruciferce. 

Root  cuttings  ("sets").  These  are  made  from  the  small 
side  roots  when  the  horse-radish  is  dug.  They  may  oe  any- 
where from  one-fourth  to  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  three  to 
six  inches  long,  one  end  being  cut  slanting,  to  mark  it. 
These  are  planted  obliquely,  two  to  four  inches  deep,  in 
spring.  They  may  be  buried  during  winter.  (Fig.  48).  The 
old  crowns  may  be  planted,  but  they  make  poorer  roots. 

Hottonia.     Primulacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds  and  divisions  in  spring. 
House-Leek.     See  Sempervivum. 
Houstonia.     Rubiacece. 

Seeds.  May  also  be  increased  by  carefully-made  divisions 
in  autumn  or  spring. 

Hovea,  Poiretia.     Leguminosce. 

Propagation  is  best  effected  by  seeds,  sown  in  well-drained 
pots  of  sandy  peat  soil  in  spring,  and  placed  in  a  gentle  bot- 
tom heat.  Cuttings  are  difficult  to  strike. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  205 

Hovenia.     Rhamnece. 

Increased  by  seeds.  Root  cuttings  are  also  used.  Ripened 
cuttings  should  be  placed  in  sand,  under  a  hand-glass. 

Hoya  (Honey  Plant,  Wax  Flower).     Asclepiadecc. 

For  layering,  good-sized  shoots  should  have  a  few  of  their 
leaves  removed,  and  should  then  be  put  in  pots  of  soil  until 
rooted.  The  plants  may  rfterwards  be  grown  on,  and  re- 
potted according  to  their  strength.  Cuttings  may  be  taken 
in  spring  or  later  in  the  year,  from  shoots  of  the  preceding 
summer's  growth,  and  placed  in  a  compost  of  peat  and  sand, 
and  plunged  in  bottom  heat  in  a  frame.  A  slight  shade  and 
careful  watering  will  be  necessary.  //.  bella  does  best  when 
grafted  on  a  stronger  growing  sort. 

Huckleberry.     See  Vaccinium. 

Kumea,  Agathomeris,  Calomeria.      Composite. 

Sow  seeds  in  light,  finely-sifted  soil,  and  place  in  a  frame 
in  early  summer. 

Humulus  (Hop).      Urticacecc. 

It  may  be  propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  in  spring. 
Ordinarily,  however,  the  species  is  increased  by  hard-wood 
cuttings  of  two-bud  lengths  from  the  best  old  shoots,  and 
made  in  spring.  Leave  the  top  bud  just  above  the  ground. 

Hyacinthus  (Hyacinth).     Liliacece. 

Seeds  are  employed  for  the  production  of  new  varieties. 
These  are  sown  the  same  season  they  mature,  in  light,  sandy 
soil,  and  are  covered  not  more  than  a  half-inch  deep.  In 
four  or  five  years,  or  sometimes  even  longer,  the  bulbs  will 
be  large  enough  to  flower.  Varieties  are  perpetuated  by 
means  of  the  bulbels  which  form  freely  upon  some  varieties. 
These  are  treated  in  much  the  same  manner  as  mature  bulbs, 
or  they  may  be  handled  in  pans  or  flats.  They  make  flower 
bulbs  in  two  or  three  years.  To  increase  the  numbers  of 
these  bulbels,  the  bulbs  are  variously  cut  by  the  Dutch  grow- 
ers. These  practices  are  described  and  illustrated  on  pages 
27  and  28,  Figs.  12-14.  Hyacinths  can  be  propagated  by 
leaf  cuttings.  Strong  leaves  should  be  taken  in  early  spring 
and  cut  into  two  or  three  portions,  each  portion  being  insert- 
ed about  an  inch  in  good  sandy  loam,  and  given  a  tempera- 
ture of  about  75°.  In  eight  or  ten  weeks  a  bulblet  will  form 
at  the  base  of  the  cutting  (see  page  52).  The  lower  leaves 
give  better  results  than  the  upper  ones.  Tne^e  bulblets  are 
then  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  bulbels. 


206  THE  PURSER  Y-BOOK. 

Hydrangea,  Hortensia.     Saxifrages. 

The  hardy  species  are  usually  propagated  by  green  cut- 
tings in  summer,  under  glass  (see  Fig.  57).  The  tender  spe- 
cies are  increased  by  cuttings  taken  at  any  time  from  vigorous 
young  wood,  usually  in  late  winter.  Layers  are  occasionally 
employed,  and  suckers  can  be  separated  from  some  species. 
Sometimes  the  hardy  species  are  forced  for  purposes  of  prop- 
agation by  cuttage.  H.  quercifolia  is  propagated  by  little 
suckers  or  ' '  root  pips. "  H.  panuulata,  grandiflora  can  easily 
be  propagated  from  the  young  wood,  taken  in  June  and 
planted  under  glass. 
Hymenocallis.  Amaryllidecc. 

Treated  the  same  as  Pancratium,  which  see. 
Hypericuni,  including  Androsaemum.     Hypericinecv. 

Easily  increased  by  seeds,  cuttings,  or  by  strong  pieces  of 
the  roots  of  creeping-rooted  species.     Hard-wooded  cuttings 
taken  in  fall,  are  commonly  used. 
Hypoxis.     Ainaryllidece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds  and  offsets. 
Hyssop  (Hyssoptis  officinalis}.     Labiatce. 

Seeds.     Division. 
Iberis  (Candytuft).     Crucifercc. 

The  annuals  and  biennials  are  increased  by  seeds  sown  in 
light  sandy  soil,  in  spring  or  autumn.     The  sub-shrubby 
sorts  are  also  increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  but   more 
often  by  divisions  or  by  cuttings. 
Idesia.     Bixinece. 

Seeds   may   be   sown    in    spring   in    gentle   heat.       Half- 
ripened  cuttings  may   be  made  in  spring  or  autumn,  and 
should  be  inserted  in  sandy  loam,  and  placed  under  a  bell- 
glass,  in  gentle  heat.      Also  by  root-cuttings. 
Ilex,  including  Prinos  (Holly).     Jlicinea. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  stratified.  They  are  often  cleaned 
of  the  pulpy  coat  by  maceration.  The  seeds  rarely  ger- 
minate until  the  second  year.  Varieties  are  perpetuated  by 
graftage.  The  veneer  graft,  upon  potted  plants,  is  usually 
employed,  but  other  methods  may  be  successful.  Budding 
is  sometimes  performed. 
Illicium  (Aniseed-tree).  Magnoliacccc. 

Seeds.  Cattings  of  young  ripened  shoots  may  be  made 
during  summer  and  should  be  placed  in  sandy  soil,  under  a 
glass. 


THE  NURSER  Y  LIST.  207 

Imantophyllum.     Amaryllidece. 

Seeds.  Usually  increased  by  division  or  by  means  of 
bulbels. 

Impatiens,  Balsamina  (Balsam).     Geraniacece. 

The  common  annuals  may  be  raised  from  seeds,  in  spring, 
in  any  ordinary  light  soil.  The  stove  and  greenhouse  species 
may  be  increased  by  seeds,  or  from  cuttings,  which  root 
freely  in  a  close  frame.  /.  Sultani  does  best  from  seeds. 

Indian  Fig.  See  Opuntia. 
Indian  Shot.  See  Canna. 
Indigofera  (Indigo).  •Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  Cuttings  of  young  shoots  may  be 
inserted  in  sandy  or  peaty  soil  under  glass,  in  slight  heat. 

Inga.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds.     Cuttings  root  with  difficulty. 
Inula,  Elecampane.      Composite*?. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds  or  by  divisions, 
lonidium,  Solea.      Violariece. 

The  herbaceous  species  are  increased  by  seeds  and  by 
divisions.  The  shrubby  sorts  are  increased  by  cuttings 
which  will  root  in  sand,  in  a  frame. 

Ipomcea,  including  Quamoclit  (Moonflower,    Morning  Glory) 

Convolvulacece. 

All  the  annual  species  are  grown  from  seeds.  The  peren- 
nials are  also  increased  by  seedage,  but  they  may  be  raised 
from  cuttings  struck  in  a  forcing-house  or  a  frame.  The 
moon-flowers  often  do  better  in  the  north  from  cuttings  than 
from  seeds.  /.  Horsfalhce  is  largely  propagated  by  layers, 
and  other  species  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way.  Division 
is  sometimes  employed.  I.  pandurala  can  be  propagated  by 
root-cuttings.  Also  grafted  (see  page  88). 

Ipomopsis.     See  Gilia. 

Iresine,  Achyranthes.     Amarantacea:. 

Seeds  rarely.  Increased  readily  by  cuttings.  For  sum- 
mer bedding  in  the  north,  cuttings  should  be  started  in 
February  or  March.  For  use  as  window  plants,  they  should 
be  taken  in  late  summer. 

Iriartea,  Deckeria.     Palmce. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seech 


208  THE  NURSER  Y-BO  OK. 

Iris,  including  Xiphion.     Iridece. 

Seeds  grow  readily  and  give  good  results,  and  they  are 
usually  produced  freely,  especially  in  the  bulbous  species. 
Sow  as  soon  as  ripe  in  light  soil  in  some  protected  place. 
The  bulbous  species  produce  bulbels,  which  may  be  used  for 
multiplication.  The  rhizomatous  species  are  propagated  by 
dividing  the  rhizome  into  short  rooted  pieces.  Or  when  the 
rhizomes  lie  on  the  surface  of  the  ground  and  do  not  root 
readily,  they  may  be  layered. 

Isonandra  (Gutta-Percha  Tree).     Sapotacece. 

Insert  cuttings  in  sandy  soil,  under  glass,  in  heat. 
Isoplexis,  Callianassa.      Scrophularinece. 

Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  should  be  made  in  spring 
under  glass. 

Isopyrum.     Ranunculacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  divisions,  in  autumn  or  spring 
Itea.  Saxifragece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  suckers,  in  spring ;  and  in 
autumn  by  layers. 

Ivy.  See  Hedera  and  Ampelopsis. 
Ixia,  including  Morphixia.  Iridece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  pans  of  sandy  soil  in  autumn,  and 

placed  in  a  cool  frame.     Propagation  by  bulbels  is  a  much 

quicker,  as  it  is  the  usual  method, 

Ixiolirion,  Kolpakowskia.     Amaryllidece. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  and  by  bulbels. 
Ixora.     Rubiacece. 

Seeds.  Usually  increased  by  short-jointed  green  cuttings 
placed  in  a  close  frame  with  a  strong  bottom  heat. 

Jaborosa.     Solanacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  and  by  divisions,  also 
by  cuttings  of  young  shoots,  placed  under  a  frame. 

Jacaranda.    Bignoniacece. 

Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  may  be  made  in  early  sum- 
mer and  placed  in  sand  over  sandy  peat,  in  heat,  and  kept 
shaded.  Also  seeds. 

Jacobsean  Lily.     See  Amaryllis. 
Jacobinia.     See  Justici_. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  209 

Jacquinia.     Myrsinece. 

Cuttings  of  ripened  shoots,  usually  made  in  summer, 
placed  in  sand,  in  a  moist  bottom  heat. 

Jalapa.  See  Mirabilis. 
Jambosa.  See  Myrtus. 
Jasione  (Sheep's  Scabious).  Campanulacea:. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  or  fall,  usually  in  the  open.  The 
perennials  may  be  divided. 

Jasminum  (Jasmine,  Jessamine).      Oleacece. 

Sometimes  by  seeds,  but  usually  by  cuttings  of  the  nearly 
ripened  wood,  under  glass.  Cuttings  of  ripe  wood  are  also 
employed,  and  layers  are  often  used. 

Jatropha.     Euphorbiacece. 

Cuttings  made  of  firm  young  shoots  will  strike  in  sandy 
soil  in  a  strong  bottom  heat.  The  cuttings,  if  very  fleshy, 
may  be  dried  a  few  days  before  setting  them. 

Jeffersonia.     Berberidece. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  divisions  may  be 
made. 

Jerusalem  Artichoke  (Girasole).     See  Artichoke. 

Jessamine,  Yellow.     See  Gelsemium. 

Jonquil.     See  Narcissus. 

Jubaea  (Coquito  Palm  of  Chili).     Palmce. 
Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds. 

Judas-tree.     See  Cercis, 

Juglans  (Walnut  and  Butternut).     Juglandece. 

All  the  species  are  readily  propagated  by  means  of  strati- 
fied nuts.  Do  not  allow  the  nuts  to  become  dry.  Artificial 
cracking  should  not  be  done.  In  stiff  soils  the  seedlings 
are  apt  to  produce  a  long  tap-root  which  renders  transplant- 
ing difficult  after  the  first  year  or  two.  The  tap-root  may  be 
cut  by  a  long  knife  while  the  tree  is  growing,  or  the  young 
seedling  may  be  transplanted.  Particular  varieties  are  per- 
petuated by  grafting  or  budding  with  any  of  the  common 
methods.  In  the  north,  they  are  sometimes  worked  indoors 
in  pots.  Common  shield-budding  works  well,  if  the  sap  is 
flowing  freely  in  the  stock.  Flute-budding  is  often  em- 
ployed. The  improved  native  sorts  are  root-grafted  in  win- 
ter. Old  trees  can  be  top-grafted  like  apple-trees  (see  p.  90). 


!  0  THE  NURSE  R  Y-BO  OK. 

The  "English"  walnut  (/.  regia]  is  mostly  grown  direct 
from  seed  in  this  country,  and  the  different  varieties  usually 
come  true.  In  California,  the  native  walnut  (/.  Californica] 
is  often  used  as  a  stock  for  this  species,  and  flute-budding  on 
branches  a  half-inch  or  more  in  diameter  is  often  practiced 
"  Twig-budding,"  or  the  insertion  of  a  short  branchlet  or  bit 
of  branch  which  is  severed  from  the  parent  branch  in  the 
same  manner  as  a  shield  bud,  is  sometimes  employed. 


Jujube  (Zixypfaus  Jujube}.     Rhamnece. 

Seeds  and  cuttings. 
Juncus  (Rush,  Bulrush).     Juncece. 

Seeds.     The  perennials  may  be  increased  by  division. 

Juneberry  (Amehmchier  Canadensis,  var.  oblongi  folia).    Rosacece 
Increased  by  using  the  sprouts  which  form  freely  about 
the  old  plants  ;  also  by  seeds. 

Juniperus  (Juniper,  Red  Cedar).      Coniferce. 

Increased  readily  by  seeds,  which,  hov/ever,  often  lie 
dormant  until  the  second  year.  They  germinate  more 
readily  if  the  pulp  is  removed  by  maceration  or  by  soaking 
with  ashes  for  a  few  days.  Green  cuttings,  in  sand  under 
glass,  root  easily  ;  or  mature  cuttings  may  be  taken  in  fall 
and  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  in  which  they  will  need  little  pro- 
tection during  winter.  Some  varieties  require  a  long  time  to 
root.  Most  of  the  named  varieties  may  be  grafted  on  im- 
ported Irish  stocks,  which  are  much  used  in  some  parts  of  the 
country.  They  may  be  veneer-grafted  and  handled  in  a 
cool  house. 

Jurinea.     Composilce. 

Increased  in  spring  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 
Jussiaea.      Onagrariece. 

Seeds  and  divisions  are  used  for  propagating. 

Justicia,  including  Jacobinia  and  Sericographis.     Acanlhacece. 

Seeds  occasionally.  The  species  strike  readily  from  short 
green  cuttings  on  a  cutting-bench  or  under  a  frame. 

Kadsura,  Sarcocarpon.     Magnoliacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings,  made  of  nearly  ripened  shoots,  which 
should  be  placed  in  sand  under  glass 

Kaki.     See  Persimmon. 


THE  Nl  -RSER  Y  LIST.  2 1 1 

Kalanchoe.      Crassulacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  but  cuttings,  when  obtainable,  are 
better. 

Kale  (Brassica  oleracea,  vars.).      Crucifercc. 

By  seeds,  sown  in  the  open  in  spring  in  the  north,  or  in 
the  fall  in  the  south. 

Kalmia  (Mountain  Laurel,  Calico-bush).     Ericacea. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  shal- 
low pans  of  sandy  peat,  and  kept  in  a  cold-frame  until  the 
seedlings  are  large  enough  to  transfer  to  the  open  air  after 
being  hardened  off.  By  cuttings  of  young  shoots  in  sandy 
peat,  placed  in  a  shady  situation  under  a  hand-glass.  Also 
by  layers.  Usually  obtained  from  the  woods. 

Kennedya.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  spring  or  summer,  or  cuttings  of 
rather  firm  side  shoots  may  be  made  at  the  same  time,  and 
placed  in  peaty  soil,  in  a  close,  warm  frame. 

Kentia.     Palmce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  placed  in  light,  sandy  soil,  with  heat. 
Kentucky  Coffee-tree.     See  Gymnocladus. 

Kerria.     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  divisions,  layers,  and  by  cuttings  of  young 
shoots,  inserted  under  a  hand-light,  or  by  ripened  cuttings. 
In  this  country,  oftener  increased  by  ripe  wood  in  fall. 

Kitaibelia.     Malvaceae. 

Seeds.     May  be  readily  propagated  by  divisions. 

Kleinhovia.     Sterculiacece. 

Seeds.  Make  cuttings  of  the  young  ripened  shoots,  and 
place  in  sand,  in  heat,  under  glass. 

Klugia.      Gesneracece. 

Seeds.     Propagated  usually  by  cuttings. 

Knightia,  Rymandra.     Proteacece. 

Make  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots  with  upper  leaves  on,  and 
place  in  sandy  soil  under  glass,  in  a  very  gentle  bottom  heat. 

Kniphofia,  Tritoma.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  of  the  crown  in  early 
spring. 


212  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Knowltonia,  Anamenia.     Rammculacece . 
Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions. 

Kcellikeria.     Gesneracece. 

Seeds,  carefully  sown.  May  be  propagated  by  dividing 
the  tubers. 

Koelreuteria.     Sapindacece. 

Propagated  in  spring  by  seed,  by  layers  in  autumn,  and  by 
cuttings  of  the  youn  g  s  hoots  in  spring  ;  also  by  root-cuttings 

Koeniga.     Cruciferce. 

Seeds,  in  spring. 
Kramer  ia.     Poly  gale  ce. 

Cuttings,  set  in  sand  under  glass,  in  spring. 

Kreysigia,  Tripladenia.     Liliacece. 

Seeds.     Propagated  generally  by  divisions  in  spring. 

Kydia.     Malvacece. 

Seeds.  May  be  increased  by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots,  which 
root  in  sand  under  glass. 

Laburnum.     Leguminosce. 

The  species  may  be  increased  by  seeds.  Layers  and  suck- 
ers are  often  used.  The  varieties  by  grafting  or  budding  on 
the  common  sorts. 

Lachenalia.     Liliacece. 
Seeds.     Bulbels. 

Lachnasa.      Thymelacece. 

Cuttings  of  short  young  shoots  may  be  made  in  spring,  and 
should  be  placed  in  sand,  under  glass. 

Laelia.      Or  chide  a. 

Increased  by  pseudo-bulbs,  as  in  cattleya.  See  also  under 
Orchids. 

Lagerstroemia  (Crape  Myrtle).     Lythrariece. 

Layers.  Cuttings  of  firm,  small  side  shoots  may  be  made 
in  spring,  and  placed  in  bottom  heat. 

Lagetta  (Lace  Bark).      Thymelacece. 

Usually  increased  by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots,  placed  in 
sand  under  glass,  in  bottom  heat. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  213 

Lagunaria.     Malvacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots,  placed  under  glass, 
in  a  gentle  heat. 

Lambertia.     Proteacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  slight  heat.  By  cuttings, 
made  of  young  and  rather  firm  shoots. 

Lantana.      Verbenacece. 

Seeds,  which  give  new  varieties.  Cuttings,  in  fall  or 
spring,  from  good  growing  wood,  in  sand  in  a  warm  house 
or  frame. 

Lapageria,  Capia,  Phaenocodon.     Lihacece. 

Sow  seeds  when  ripe  in  a  sandy  peat  soil,  and  keep  in  a 
moderate  heat.  Increased  by  layers  of  firm,  strong  shoots. 

Laportea.     Urticacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand,  in  heat. 
Lardizibala.  Berberidece. 

The  cuttings,  made  of  half-ripened  shoots,  should  be  in- 
serted in  sandy  soil  under  glass. 

Larix  (Larch,  Tamarack).      Coniferce. 

Seeds  should  be  kept  dry  over  winter  and  planted  early  in 
spring.  Shade  the  young  plants.  Varieties,  as  the  weeping 
sorts,  are  worked  upon  common  stocks.  The  grafting  may 
be  done  by  the  whip  method,  out-doors  early  in  spring.  Rare 
sorts  are  sometimes  veneer-grafted  under  glass. 

Larkspur,     See  Delphinium. 
Lasiandra.     Melastomacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  growing  wood  under  glass. 
Lasiopetalum.  Sterculiacece. 

Seeds.  Make  cuttings  in  spring  of  the  half-ripened  wood, 
and  insert  in  sand,  under  glass. 

Latania.     See  Livistona. 

Lathyrus  (Sweet  Pea,  Vetchling).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  sown  very  early  in  the  open.  The  perennials  also 
by  seeds,  sometimes  by  division. 

Lattice-leaf.     See  Ouvirandra. 
Latua.     Solanacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  placed  in  sand  under  glass. 


2I4 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Laurel,  Mountain.     See  Kalmia. 
Laurus  (Laurel).     Laurinecc. 

Increased  by  seeds,  layers,  and  by  cuttings,  placed  under 
a  hand-glass  in  sandy  soil.  Also  propagated  by  root-cuttings. 

Laurustinus.     See  Viburnum. 
Lavandula  (Lavender).     Labiate?. 

Divisions.     When  the  flowers  are  fully  expanded,  cuttings 

may  be  made.     These  should  be  inserted  in  sandy  soil,  under 

a  frame. 

Lawsonia,  Alcanna.     Lythrariece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots,  placed  in  sand 
under  a  glass,  in  heat. 

Laxmannia.     Liliaceoe. 

Seeds.  Propagation  is  usually  effected  by  divisions  or 
bulbels. 

Layia.     Compositce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  a  hot-bed,  or  in  the  open  bor- 
der in  the  south. 

Leaf-Beet  or  Chard.     See  Beet. 
Ledum  (Labrador  Tea).     Ericacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions,  but  principally  by  lay- 
ers, in  sandy  peat  soil. 

Leek  {A  I  Hum  Porruni}.     Liliacece. 

Seeds,  sown  very  early  in  the  spring,  either  out-doors  or 
in  a  cold-frame. 

Leianthus.     Gentianecc. 

Seeds,  under  cover  ;  or  cuttings  of  young  shoots  may  be 
made,  and  inserted  in  sandy  soil  under  glass. 

Leiophyllum  (Sand  Myrtle).     Ericaceae. 

May  be  freely  increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  pans  and  placed 
in  a  frame.  By  layers  in  autumn. 

Lemon  (Citrus  Limonum).     Rutacea. 

The  named  sorts  are  budded  upon  either  orange  or  lemon 
stocks.  Orange  stocks  are  probably  most  generally  pre- 
ferred, as  they  are  adapted  to  a  great  variety  of  soils,  and 
vigorous  trees  nearly  always  result.  The  budding  is  per- 
formed in  the  same  manner  as  upon  the  orange,  which  see. 
Lemons  are  often  grown  from  cuttings  of  the  mature  wood, 


THE  NURSER  Y  LIS  T.  215 

which  are  set  in  the  open  ground  as  soon  as  the  spring  be- 
comes warm,  or  in  a  frame.  Stocks  for  budding  upon  are 
sometimes  grown  from  cuttings  in  this  way. 

Lentil  (ErvTvn,  various  species).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  sown  in  early  spring. 
Leonotis  (Lion's  Ear,  Lion's  Tail).     Labialce. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  cuttings,  which  root  freely  in  a  gentle 
bottom  heat,  in  early  spring. 

Leontice.     Berberidece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds  or  by  suckers. 
Leontopodium  (Edelweiss,  Lion's  Foot).      Composite?. 

May  annually  be  raised  from  seeds,  or  the  old  plants  may 
be  divided  in  spring.     The  seeds  must  be  kept  in  a  dry  place 
throughout  the  winter. 
Lepachys.     See  Rudbeckia. 
Leptosyne.     Composiice. 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
Leschenaultia.     Goodenoviea. 

In  spring  or  summer  cuttings  may  be  taken  from  the  points 
of  shoots  that  are  rather  firm,  and  placed  in  sandy  peat,  in  a 
shaded  frame. 
Lessertia.     Leguminosce. 

Propagation  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  in  spring. 
Lettuce  (Lacluca  saliva],      Composiice. 

Seeds,  which  may  be  sown  under  glass  or  in  the  open.  In 
the  middle  and  southern  states,  the  seeds  may  be  sown  in  the 
fall,  and  the  plants  protected  during  cold  by  a  mulch  ;  or  the 
plants  may  grow  during  winter  in  the  warmer  parts. 

Leucadendron  (Silver  Tree).     Proleacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
Leucoium   (Snowflake).     Amaryllidece. 

Seeds,  for  producing  new  sorts.  Propagation  is  commonly 
effected  by  bulbels,  which  should  be  secured  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible after  the  foliage  ripens. 

LeilCOthoe.     Ericaceae. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  covered  very  lightly 
By  divisions  of  established  plants  in  autumn  or  winter.    Also 
by  layers. 


2 1 6  THE  NURSER  Y-BO  OK. 

Lewisia.     Portulacacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  in  spring. 
Leycesteria.     Caprifoliacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring.  By  cuttings 
of  the  short  young  shoots,  made  in  spring ;  by  older  ones 
made  in  autumn. 

Leyssera.     Composites. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  firm  cuttings,  placed  in  sandy 
soil  during  summer. 

Liatris  (Blazing  Star,  Button  Snake-Root).      Composite. 

Seeds  are  usually  sown  early  in  autumn.  Divisions  may 
be  made  in  spring. 

Libonia.     Acanthacece, 

Seeds  are  rarely  employed.  Usually  increased  by  short 
green  cuttings  in  a  frame. 

Licuala,  Pericylcla.     Palmce. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  spring  in  a  sandy  soil,  and  placed  in 
a  strong,  moist  bottom  heat. 

Lietzia .      Gesnera  cece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  early  spring,  in  heat ;  by  cut- 
tings inserted  in  sand  under  a  glass,  in  bottom  heat ;  or  by 
tubers,  which  must  be  kept  dry  in  winter  and  potted  in  early 
spring. 

Lightfootia.     Campanulacece. 

The  annuals,  by  seeds  sown  in  a  warm  frame  in  spring 
Perennials  also  by  cuttings  made  of  young  shoots  placed 
in  sand  containing  a  little  peat,  under  glass. 

Ligularia.     Composite^. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  in  spring  and  autumn 
Ligustrum  (Privet,  Prim).  Oleacece. 

Stratified  seeds.  Division.  The  named  varieties  are 
grown  from  cuttings,  either  of  green  or  ripe  wood. 

Lilac.     See  Syringa. 

Lilium  (Lily).     Liliacece. 

Seeds — giving  new  varieties  in  the  variable  species — should 
be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  well-drained  pans  of  sandy  peat, 
slightly  covered  with  similar  soil  and  a  layer  of  moss,  and 
placed  in  a  cool  frame.  Usually  increased  by  bulbels,  which 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  217 

5hould  be  planted  a  few  inches  apart  in  prepared  beds. 
Sometimes  small  bulblets  form  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  and 
these  are  used  in  the  same  manner  as  bulbels.  Bulb-scales 
are  often  employed  for  the  multiplication  of  scarce  kinds. 
Those  which  produce  large  and  loose  bulbs,  as  L.  candidum, 
may  be  increased  by  simple  division.  These  operations  are 
described  on  pp.  25  to  29. 

Lily  of  the  Valley.     See  Convallaria. 
Lime  (Citrus  Lirnettd).     Riitacece. 

Seeds,  which  usually  reproduce  the  variety.  Some  varie- 
ties are  budded  upon  strong  seedlings. 

Lime-tree.     See  Tilia. 
Limnanthes.     Geraniacece. 

Freely  increased  by  seeds  in  any  ordinary  garden  soil  in 
spring  or  autumn. 

Limnocharis.     Alismacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  by  divisions,  and  by  runners. 
Linaria  (Toadflax).      Scrophularinece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  light  soil,  in  early  spring.  Or 
by  divisions  made  in  spring  or  autumn.  The  greenhouse 
species  are  ordinary  grown  from  seeds,  which  should  be  care- 
fully sown  in  finely  pulverized  soil.  Cuttings  may  also 
be  used. 

Linden.     See  Tilia. 
Lindleya.     Rosacece. 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings  under  glass  in  bottom  heat ; 
or  by  grafting  on  the  hawthorn. 

Linnsea.      Cafrifoliacece. 

Naturally  increased  by  layers  or  runners.  Seeds  are 
rarely  employed. 

Linum  (Flax).     Lineec. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  the  hardy  species  sown  out-doors 
and  the  tender  ones  under  glass.  Cuttings  may  be  taken 
from  firm  shoots  and  inserted  in  a  sandy  position  under 
glass.  The  ordinary  flax  is  sown  directly  in  the  field. 

Lippia,  including  Aloysia,  Zapania.      Verbenacece. 

Seeds.  Usually  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots,  which  will 
root  freely  in  sandy  soil  in  a  close,  warm  frame.  If  it  is  not 

N.    B.— 15 


2l8  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

possible  to  secure  the  necessary  heat,  cuttings  of   the  hard 
wood  can  be  used  in  autumn,  under  glass. 

Liquidambar  (Sweet  Gum).     Hammelidece. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  or  sown  as  soon  as  ripe. 
Many  of  the  seeds  may  lie  dormant  until  the  second  year. 

Liquorice.     See  Glycyrrhiza. 

Liriodendron  (Tulip-tree,  Whitewood).     Magnoliacece. 

Increased  by  stratified  seeds.  Named  varieties  are  grafted 
on  seedlings.  The  seeds  of  the  tulip-tree  are  apt  to  be  hol- 
low, especially  those  grown  along  the  eastern  limits  of  the 
distribution  of  the  species. 

Lisianthus.     Gentianecc. 

The  annuals  may  be  increased  by  seeds,  those  of  a  shrubby 
habit  by  cuttings. 

Litchi.     See  Nephelium . 

Lithospermum,  including  Batschia  (Gromwell).     Boraginece. 
May  be  propagated  by  seeds,  by  divisions,  or  by  cuttings. 

Livistona,  Latania,  Saribus  (Fan  Palm).     Palmce. 

Seeds,  sown  in  a  sandy  soil  and  placed  in  a  gentle  bottom 
heat. 

Lloydia.     Liliacece. 

Seeds  rarely.  Increased  by  bulbels,  or  by  the  creeping 
shoots  leaving  a  bulb  at  the  extremity. 

Loasa,  including  Illairea.     Loasece. 

All  are  easily  increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  light,  sandy 
soil,  usually  under  cover.  Cuttings  are  rarely  used. 

Lobelia.      Campanulacece. 

Ordinarily  increased  by  seeds,  which  are  more  certain  if 
handled  in  pans  or  flats  under  glass.  Cuttings  from  vigor- 
ous shoots  may  be  employed,  and  strong  plants  of  some 
species  may  be  divided.  The  cardinal  flower  (L.  cardinahs] 
is  grown  from  seeds  carefully  sown  in  fine  soil,  usually 
under  cover. 

Locust-tree.     See  Robinia. 
Loddigesia.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  in  spring  by  cuttings  placed  under  glass,  in 
sandy  soil. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


2IQ 


Loeselia,  Hoitzia.      JJolemoniacetc. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  sand  under  glass. 
Logania,  Euosma.  Loganicucce. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  firm  side  shoots  inserted  in 
sandy  soil,  under  glass. 

Loiseleurea.     Ericaceae. 

Propagation  by  layers ;  very  rarely  by  seeds,  which  are 
slow  and  uncertain. 

Lomatia,  Tricondylus.     Proteaceic. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  well-ripened  shoots  placed  in  a 
gentle  heat  under  glass. 

Lonchocarpus.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds.  Propagated  by  growing  cuttings  placed  in  sand 
under  glass,  in  mild  heat. 

Lonicera,  including  Caprifolium  and  Xylosteum  (Honeysuckle). 

Caprifoliacece. 

Seeds,  for  new  varieties.  Sow  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  stratify, 
first  removing  them  from  the  pulp.  The  upright  species  are 
commonly  grown  from  layers  and  from  cuttings  of  dormant 
wood.  The  creepers  are  mostly  grown  from  dormant 
cuttings. 

Lopezia,  Pisaura.     Onagrariece. 

Seeds,  under  cover  in  spring.  Also  increased  by  cuttings. 
Lophanthus  (Giant  Hyssop).  Labiata. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds  and  divisions. 
Lophospermum.     See  Maurandia. 
Loquat.     See  Photinia. 
Lotus.     Leguminosce. 

The  species  may  be  raised  annually  from  seeds.  Increased 
also  by  cuttings. 

Lotus  of  the  Nile.     See  Nymphaea. 
Lovage  {Levisiicum  offidnale\.      UmbellifercE. 

Seeds  sown  in  the  open  ground,  and  division.. 
Lucern.     See  Medicago. 
Luculia.     Rubiacece. 

Sow  seeds  in  sandy  soil  and  place  in  a  little  heat.  Cut- 
tings of  young  shoots  may  be  inserted  in  spring,  under  glass, 


220  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

in  gentle  bottom  heat  for  the  first  two  or  three  weeks,      in- 
sert immediately  after  cutting  and  water  freely. 

Luffa  (Dish-cloth  Gourd).      Cucurbitacea\ 

Seeds,  sown  in  the  open,  or  in  the  north  better  started  in 
pots  in  early  spring. 

Lunaria  (Honesty).     Cruciferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 
Lupinus  (Lupin).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  of  annuals  may  be  sown  in  the  open  border  during 
early  spring.  The  perennials  may  be  increased  the  same 
way,  or  by  dividing  the  stronger  growing  plants  durin  g  very 
early  spring. 

Lycaste.     Orchideee. 

Division  and  pseudo-bulbs.      (See  also  under  Orchids) 

Lychnis,  including  Agrostemma,  Viscaria.      Cctryophyllecc. 

Increased  readily  in  spring  by  seeds,  divisions  or  cuttings. 

Lycium  (Matrimony  Vine,  Box  Thorn).      Solanacetc. 

Increased  by  seeds,  suckers,  layers;  and  by  cuttings 
made  in  autumn  or  spring. 

Lygodium  (Hartford  Fern,  Climbing  Fern).     Filices. 

By  spores' and  divisions  of  the  root.      See  Ferns. 
Lyonia.     Ericacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  very  carefully 
in  sandy  peat  soil.  Also  by  layers. 

Lysimachia  (Loosestrife).     Prinmlacece. 

Propagation  is  easily  effected  by  seeds ;  by  divisions  in 
late  autumn  or  early  spring  ;  and  by  cuttings. 

Lythrum  (Loosestrife).     Lythrariece. 

Seeds  and  divisions  are  the  usual  methods.  Cuttings  are 
employed  for  some  species. 

Madura  (Osage  Orange).      Urticacece. 

Sow  seed  in  the  spring.  Soak  in  warm  water  a  few  days 
before  sowing. 

Madia.     Composites. 
Seeds. 


THE   NURSERY  LIST.  ~?J, 

Magnolia.     Magnoliacece. 

Seeds  are  commonly  used.  The  coverings  should  be 
macerated  from  the  very  pulpy  species.  The  cucumber- 
.rees  and  some  others  are  sown  directly  in  autumn.  The 
seeds  of  any  species  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  thor- 
oughly dry.  Magnolias  strike  well  from  green  cuttings,  cut 
to  a  heel  and  handled  under  glass.  Layers  are  often  used. 
Named  varieties  are  veneer-  or  side-grafted  upon  strong 
stocks.  The  cucumber  tree  (M.  acuminatd]  is  used  as  a 
stock  for  all  species.  The  umbrella  tree  (M.  iinibrella)  is 
also  a  good  stock. 

Mahernia.     Sterculiacece. 

Propagated  during  summer  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots, 
one  or  two  inches  k>ng,  inserted  in  sandy  soil,  under  glass. 

Mahonia.     See  Berberis. 
Maidenhair-tree.     See  Ginkgo. 
Maize  (Zea  Mays].      Graminea:. 

Seeds  ^properly  fruits)  planted  upon  the  approach  of  warm 
weather. 

Malcolmia.     Cruciferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
Mallow.     See  Malva. 
Malope.     Malvaceae. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  either  under  glass  in  early  spring,  or 
in  the  open  border  a  month  or  two  later. 

Malpighia.     Malpighiacea. 

Cuttings  of  nearly  ripened  shoots  may  be  made  in  sum- 
mer, with  leaves  or  under  glass. 

Malva  (Mallow).     Malvaceae. 

The  annuals  by  seeds  only.  The  perennials  may  be  in- 
creased by  seeds,  divisions  or  cuttings. 

Malvaviscus,  Achania.     Malvaceae. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  side  shoots,  placed 
ussier  glass,  in  beat. 

Mammea  (Mammee  Apple,  St.  Domingo  Apricot).      Guttiferce. 
Seeds.     Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  should  be  taken 
with  the  leaves  on  and  placed  in  a  frame. 

Mammillaria.     See  Cactus. 


222  THE    NURSERY-BOOK. 

Mande  villa.     Apocynacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers,  or  cuttings  of  half-ripened 
wood. 

Mandiocca.     See  Manihot. 
Mandragora  Mandrake).     Solanacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 
Mandrake.     See  Mandragora  and  Podophyllum. 
Manettia.     Rubiaceae. 

Seeds  are  sometimes  employed.     Usually  increased  by  cut- 
tings of  young  shoots.      Root-cuttings  are  sometimes  made. 
Mangifera.     See  Mango. 
Mango  (Mangifera  Indica).     Anacardiacece. 

Stocks  are  obtained  by  seeds.  The  seeds  usually  have 
more  than  one  embryo,  sometimes  as  many  as  ten.  Each 
embryo  will  produce  a  distinct  plant.  The  embryos  may  be 
separated  before  planting,  but  it  is  preferable  to  separate  the 
young  plantlets  soon  after  germination,  before  they  grow  to- 
gether, as  they  are  apt  to  do.  The  -seeds  germinate  better 
if  the  hard  shell  is  removed  before  planting.  Seeds  retain 
their  vitality  but  a  few  days,  and  if  to  be  shipped  for  sowing 
they  should  be  enclosed  in  wax.  Seedlings  begin  to  bear 
from  the  third  to  the  sixth  years.  Varieties  are  inarched 
upon  other  stocks. 

Mangostana,  Mangosteen.     See  Garcinia. 
Manicaria,  Pilophora.     Palmce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should    be  sown  in   a  strong, 
moist  heat. 
Manihot,  Janipha,  Mandiocca.     Euphorbiacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  cuttings  of  young  and  rather 
firm   shoots,  placed  in  sandy  peat  under  glass,  in   bottom 
heat.     For  the  propagation  of  M.  Aipe,  see  Cassava 
Mantisia.     Sdtaminece. 

Propagated  usually  by  divisions,  made  just  as  growth  com- 
mences. 

Maple.     See  Acer. 
Maraiita.     Scitaminea. 

Propagated  the  same  as  Calathea,  which  see. 

Marguerite  or  Paris  Daisy  (Chrysanthemum  frutcscens}.     Com- 
posite. 

Cuttings,  as  described  for  Chrysanthemum. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


223 


Marica.     Iridece. 

Propagated   by  seeds,  and   by  division  of    the  rhizomes, 
placing  each  portion  in  sand,  in  a  high  bottom  beat. 

Marigold.     See  Tagetes. 
Mariposa  Lily.     See  Calochortus. 
Marsdsnia.     Asclepiadece. 

In   spring,  cuttings  may  be  made  and  inserted   in   sand, 
under  glass. 

Marsh-Mallow.     See  Althaea. 
Marsh-Marigold.     See  Caltha. 
Martynia  (Unicorn  Plant).     Pedalinece. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  grow,  or  started  under 
glass  in  the  north. 

Masdevallia.     Orchidece. 

Division.      (See  also  under  Orchids.) 
Mathiola  (Stock,  Gilliflower).      Crudferce. 

Seeds,  sown  either  under  cover  or  in  the  garden.      Grows 
readily  from  cuttings. 

Maurandya,  including  Lophospermum.      Scrophularince. 

Seeds,  sown   in   heat.      Cuttings  of   young  growth   under 
glass. 

Mauritia,  including  Orophoma.     Palmce. 

Sow  seeds  in  heat. 
Maxillaria.     Orchidece. 

Division  of  the  plants,  and  also  of  the  pseudo-bulbs.     (See 
also  under  Orchids.) 

May-Apple.     See  Podophyllum. 
Meadow-Rue.     See  Thalictrum. 
Meadow-Sweet.     See  Spiraea. 
Meconopsis.     Papaveracece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  early  spring  in  a  gentle  heat.     Also  propa- 
gated by  division. 

Medeola  (Indian  Cucumber).     Liliacecc. 

Seeds.    May  be  increased  by  dividing  the  plants  in  spring. 
Medicago  (Lucerno,  Medick).     Legiiminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  divisions. 


224  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Medinilla.     Melastomacece. 

Cuttings  of  young  wood  in  strong,  close  heat. 
Medlar  (Pyrus  [or  Mespi!us~\   Germanica}.     Rosacece. 

Stocks  are  grown  from  stratified  medlar  seeds,  and  the 
plant  may  be  worked  upon  these,  the  thorn  or  quince. 

Megarrhiza.      Cucurbitacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  sown  in  gentle  heat  in 
spring 

Melittis  (Bastard  Balm).     Labiatce. 

Seeds  and  division. 
Melaleuca.     Myrtacece. 

Seeds.  In  spring,  cuttings  getting  firm  at  the  base  may 
be  made  about  three  inches  in  length.  Place  in  a  compost 
of  peat  and  sandy  loam. 

Melastoma.     Melastomacece. 

Make  cuttings  during  spring,  and  place  in  sandy  peat  under 
glass  in  heat. 

Melia  (Bead-tree).     Meliacece. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  Cuttings  of  growing  wood 
under  glass. 

Melianthus  (Honey  Flower).     Sapindacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  by  root-sprouts,  or  by  cuttings,  which 
root  freely  under  glass. 

Melichrus.     Epacridece. 

Cuttings  of  the  shoots  should  be  made,  about  twoinche 
long,  and  inserted  in  sandy  soil. 

Melicocca  (Ginep,  Spanish  Lime).      Sapindacece. 

Seeds.  Place  ripened  cuttings  in  sand  under  glass,  in 
heat. 

Melocactus.     See  Cactus. 

Melon  (Cucumis  Me  to],     Cucurbitacea:. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand.     In  the  north 

they  are  occasionally  started  under  glass  in  pots  or  pieces  of 

inverted  sods,  by  amateurs. 

Menispermum  (Moon-seed).     Menispermacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions  or  cuttings  in  spring. 


THE    NURSERY  LIST. 


225 


Menyanthes   (Buckbean).      Gentianece. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  by  divisions  of  the  roots. 
Menziesia.     Ericaceae. 

May  be  increased  by  dividing  established  tufts,  by  layers' 
or  by  cuttings. 

Mertensia,  Lungwort.     Boraginece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  sowing  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe,  or 
by  divisions  in  autumn. 

Mesembryanthemum  (Fig  Marigold,  Ice  Plant).     Ficoidea:. 

May  be  easily  propagated  by  seeds,  sown  under  glass  ;  by 
pieces,  pulled  or  cut  off,  and  laid  in  the  sun  on  moist  sand. 

Mespilus.     See  Medlar. 
Metrosideros.     Myrtacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds ;    also  by  cuttings  of  the  hardened 
wood  in  late  autumn. 

Mezereum,  Mezereon.     See  Daphne. 
Michaelmas  Daisy.     See  Aster. 
Michauxia.     Campanulacece. 

The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  the  border  in  spring. 
Michelia.     Magnoliacece. 

Seeds.     Make  cuttings  of  growing  wood  in  summer,  and 
place  in  sand  under  glass. 

Mignonette.     See  Reseda. 
Milfoil.     See  Achillea. 
Milkweed.     See  Asclepias. 
Milla.     Liliacea. 

Increased  by  seeds,  bulbels  or  divisions. 
Miltonia.     Orchidece. 

Dividing  the  pseudo-bulbs.     (See  also  under  Orchids.) 
Mimosa  (Sensitive  Plant).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  sown  in-doors.     Cuttings  of  rather  firm  shoots,  and 
inserted  in  sandy  soil,  in  heat. 

Mimulus  (Monkey  Flower,  Musk  Plant).     Scrophularinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  thinly  sown  and 
lightly  covered.     Also  by  divisions  and  cuttings. 

Mint.     See  Peppermint  and  Spearmint. 


226  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Mirabilis,  Jalapa  (Marvel  of  Peru,  Four  o'clock).    Nyctaginece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  either  under  cover  or  out-doors. 
Mistletoe.     See  Viscum. 
Mock  Orange.     See  Philadelphus. 
Momordica.      Cucurbitacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  heat  early  in 
spring. 

Monarda  (Horse  Mint).     Labiatce. 

Seeds.      Propagated  also  by  dividing  the  roots. 
Monk's  Hood.     See  Aconitum. 
Monsonia.     Geraniacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  sown  in-doors  in  spring ; 
by  division,  or  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  soil  under  a  hand- 
light,  in  spring  or  autumn. 

Monstera,  Serangium,  Tornelia.     Aroidece. 

Easily  increased  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings  of  the  stem. 
Montbretia.     See  Tritonia. 
Montezuma.     Malvaceae. 

Make  cuttings  of  rather  firm  shoots,  and  insert  in  sand 
under  glass. 

Moon-seed.     See  Menispermum. 
Moon-flower.     See  Ipomcea. 
Moricandia.     Cruel/era. 

Propagated  by  seed,  sown  in  the  open  ground  during  spring. 
Moringa,  Anoma.     Moringece, 

Make  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  spring,  and  insert 
in  sand  under  glass. 

Morning-glory.     See  Ipomoea. 
Morus.     See  Mulberry. 
Mountain  Ash.     See  Pyrus. 
Mountain  Laurel.     See  Kalmia. 
Mourning  Bride.     See  Scabiosa. 
Mucuna.     Leguminosce. 

Propagation  may  be  effected  by  seeds  or  by  cuttings  of 
half-ripened  wood,  under  glass. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  227 

Muehlenbeckia,  Sarcogonum.     Polygonacece. 

Seeds.  Increased  usually  by  cuttings,  taken  in  early  sum- 
mer in  a  frame. 

Mulberry  (Mortis  alba,  M.  nigra  and  M.  mbra).     Urticacece. 

New  sorts  are  grown  by  seeds,  which  should  be  handled 
in  the  same  manner  as  small  fruit  seeds.  Named  varieties 
are  multiplied  by  cuttings  of  the  root,  or  of  mature  wood, 
and  sometimes  by  layers.  The  tree  may  also  be  budded  or 
grafted  by  ordinary  methods. 

The  common  white  mulberry  was  formerly  used  as  a  stock 
for  named  varieties,  but  Russian  mulberry  seedlings  are 
now  much  used.  The  stocks  may  be  top-worked  out-doors, 
or  root-grafted  in  the  house.  They  are  commonly  crown- 
worked,  however,  in  the  house  in  winter,  the  stocks  being 
grown  in  pots  or  boxes  for  the  purpose.  They  are  then  kept 
under  glass  until  the  weather  permits  them  out-doors.  By 
this  method  fine  specimen  trees  are  procured,  but  they  are 
readily  handled  by  cheaper  methods.  The  weeping  and 
other  ornamental  sorts  are  now  worked  upon  the  Russian 
mulberry. 

Mulberry,  Paper.     See  Broussonetia. 

Mullein.     See  Verbascum. 

Musa  (Banana,  or  Plantain-tree).     Stitaminece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  heat  during  spring.  Suckers  are 
used  for  those  species  which  produce  them.  Many  of  the 
species  do  not  produce  seeds  freely,  and  suckers  must  be 
relied  upon.  See  Banana. 

Muscari,  including  Botryanthus  (Grape  Hyacinth).    Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  bulbels,  which  are  obtained  by 
lifting  the  old  bulbs  early  in  the  autumn,  about  every  second 
year. 

Mushroom  (Agaricus  campestris]. 

Break  up  the  commercial  spawn  into  pieces  about  as  large 
as  a  hen's  egg,  and  plant  it  in  drills  or  holes,  using  from  one- 
half  pound  to  a  pound  of  spawn  to  each  square  yard  of  bed. 

The  spawn  is  the  mycelium  of  the  fungus  held  in  a  mass 
or  ' '  brick  "  of  earth  and  manure.  Various  methods  are  em- 
ployed for  making  the  spawn,  but  the  essentials  of  them  all 
are  that  the  body  of  the  brick  shall  be  composed  of  a  porous 
and  light  material,  which  can  be  compressed  into  a  compact 
mass  ;  fresh  mycelium  must  be  communicated  to  this  mass, 
and  then  a  mild  heat  must  be  applied,  until  the  whole  mass 


228  THE  MURSERY-BOOK. 

is  permeated  by  the  mycelium.  The  mass  should  be  kept  in 
heat  until  the  whole  of  it  assumes  a  somewhat  cloudy  look, 
but  not  until  the  threads  of  the  mycelium  can  be  seen.  Or- 
dinarily, fresh  horse  manure,  cow  manure  and  good  loam 
are  mixed  together  in  about  equal  proportions,  enough  water 
being  added  to  render  the  material  of  the  consistency  of 
mortar.  It  is  then  spread  upon  the  floor  or  in  large  vats, 
until  sufficiently  dry  to  be  cut  into  bricks.  When  these  are 
tolerably  well  dried,  mycelium  from  a  mushroom  bed  or  from 
other  bricks  is  inserted  in  the  side  of  each  brick.  A  bit  of 
spawn  about  the  size  of  a  small  walnut  is  thus  inserted,  and 
the  hole  is  plugged  up.  The  bricks  are  now  placed  in  a  mild 
covered  hot-bed,  with  a  bottom  heat  of  55°  to  65°,  and  left 
there  until  the  clouded  appearance  indicates  that  the  mycel- 
ium has  extended  throughout  the  mass.  Soil  from  a  good 
mushroom  bed  is  sometimes  used  to  sow  new  beds,  in  place 
of  commercial  spawn.  Old  clumps  of  mushrooms  may  be 
allowed  to  become  dry,  and  they  may  then  be  mixed  into  a 
bed.  The  spores  will  then  stock  the  soil  and  produce  a  new 
crop.  The  full-grown  mushroom  may  be  laid  upon  white 
paper  until  the  spores  are  discharged,  and  these  spores  may 
then  be  mixed  into  the  earth.  Propagation  by  spores  is  little 
understood,  however.  (See  page  24.) 

Mustard  (Srassica  or  Sinapis  species). 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
Mutisia.     Composite. 

Seeds.  Layers  and  cuttings  of  growing  wood,  those  of  the 
tender  species  in  bottom  heat. 

Mygindia,  Rhacoma.      Celastrinece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  firm  shoots  under  glass. 
Myoporum.     Myoporinece. 

Seeds,   when  obtainable.      Usually  by  cuttings  of  young 
wood  in  heat. 
Myosotis  (Forget-me-not).     Boraginece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  in-doors  or  in  the  gar- 
den. The  perennials  may  also  be  increased  by  divisions,  in 
spring,  or  by  cuttings  placed  under  a  hand-glass  in  a  shady 
spot,  in  summer. 

Myrica   (Bayberry,   Sweet  Gale,  Wax   Myrtle,   Candleberry). 

Myricacece. 

Hardy  species  mostly  by  seeds,  from  which  the  pulp  has 
been  removed.  Sow  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  stratify  them.  Lay- 


THE  NURSER  Y  LIST.  22Q 

ers  and  divisions  may  also  be  employed.     The  greenhouse 
species  are  increased  mostly  by  green  cuttings. 

Myristica  (Nutmeg).     Myristicece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds  ;  or  by  cuttings  of  ripened 
shoots  placed  in  sand  under  glass,  in  bottom  heat. 

Myrobolan.     See  Prunus. 
Myrodia,  Lexarsa.     Sterculiacece. 

Cuttings  of  firm  shoots,  which  should  be  placed  in  sand 
under  glass,  in  heat. 

Myroxylon  (Tolu  Balsam-tree).     Leguminoscc. 

Propagation  is  effected  during  summer  by  cuttings  of  grow- 
ing shoots  placed  in  sand  in  a  frame. 

Myrrhis  (Sweet  Cicely  or  Myrrh).      Umbelliferae. 

May  be  increased  by  divisions  or  by  seeds. 
Myrsiphyllum.     Liliacecc. 

Freely  increased  by  seeds,  by  divisions,  or  by  cuttings. 
M.  asparagoides,  the  "  Smilax "  or  Boston-vine  of  green- 
houses, is  increased  by  seeds,  which  germinate  readily. 

Myrtus,  including  Ugni  (Myrtle).     Myrtacece. 

Seeds,  when  they  can  be  obtained.  Readily  propagated 
by  cuttings  of  firm  or  partially  ripened  shoots,  placed  in 
a  close  frame  ;  those  of  the  stove  species  require  a  warmer 
temperature  than  the  half-hardy  ones. 

Naegelia.      Gesneracece. 

Seeds  rarely.  Propagation  is  effected  by  potting  the  runners 
in  spring  or  summer  in  a  compost  of  peat,  leaf  soil  and 
a  little  loam.  Cuttings  of  young  shoots,  as  mature  leaves, 
will  also  root  readily. 

Napoleona,  Belvisia.     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  two  to  four 
inches  long,  in  mild  bottom  heat. 

Narcissus  (Daffodil,  Jonquil,  Chinese  Sacred  Lily).     Amaryl- 

lidece. 

New  varieties  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  give  flowering 
bulbs  in  three  or  four  years.  Ordinarily  increased  by  bul- 
bels,  which  usually  flower  the  second  year. 

Nasturtium.     See  Water  Cress  and  Tropaeolum. 


230 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Nauclea.     Rubiacea. 

May  be  increased  by  cuttings  of  growing  shoots,  in  heat. 

Nectarine.     See  Peach. 

Negundo  (Box  Elder).     Sapindacece. 

Propagates  with  readiness  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown 

as  soon  as  ripe.     Also  by  cuttings  of  mature  wood,  handled 

like  grape  cuttings. 

Neillia.     Handled  the  same  as  Spiraea,  which  see. 

Nelumbo,    Nelumbium    (Water    Chinquapin,     Lotus,    Water 

Bean).     Nymphceacece. 

Seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  shallow  pans  of  water  in 
the  garden,  or  if  sown  in  ponds  they  may  be  incorporated  in 
a  ball  of  clay  and  dropped  into  the  water.  The  seeds  of 
some  species  are  very  hard,  and  germination  is  facilitated  if 
they  are  very  carefully  filed  or  bored  (see  Fig.  7).  Sections 
of  the  rhizomes  may  be  used  instead.  They  should  always 
be  covered  with  water,  at  least  a  foot  or  two  deep,  if  out- 
doors. 

Pfemastylis,  Nemostylis.     Iridece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  or  by  bulbels. 
Nematanthus.      Gesneracece. 

Seeds  rarely.  Freely  increased  by  cuttings,  inserted  in 
sandy  soil  and  kept  rather  dry. 

Nemopanthes  (Mountain  Holly).     Ilidnecc. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe 
or  else  stratified  ;  also  by  division  of  old  plants. 

Nemophila.     Hydrophyllacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  late  summer  or  any  time  during 
early  spring. 

Nepenthes  (Pitcher  Plant).     Nepenthacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings.  The  seeds  must  have 
good  drainage,  uniform  conditions  and  strong  heat  (80° 
to  85°).  Sow  upon  a  soil  made  of  peat  and  fine  sphagnum, 
and  keep  in  a  moist  and  close  frame.  Cuttings  are  usually 
struck  in  moss  in  a  frame  having  strong  bottom  heat.  A 
good  plan  is  to  fill  a  small  pot  with  moss,  invert  it,  and  insert 
the  cutting  through  the  hole  in  the  bottom.  The  pot  then 
keeps  the  moss  uniform.  The  pot  is  broken  when  the  plant 
is  removed.  When  potting  off,  use  very  coarse  material. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  23 1 

Nepeta,  Glechoma  (Catmint,  Catnip).     Labiatce. 

^  ropagated  by  sowing  seed  in  spring,  or  by  divisions. 
Nephelium,  Dimocarpus,  Euphoria  (Litchi).     Sapindacett. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  made  of  bai> 
ripened  wood. 

Nephrodium.  See  Ferns. 
Nephrolepis.  See  Ferns. 
Nerine.  Amaryllidece. 

Seeds,  for  new  varieties.  Commonly  increased  by  means 
of  bulbels. 

Nerium  (Oleander).     Apocynacece. 

Layers.  Cuttings  should  be  made  of  matured  leading 
shoots,  inserted  in  single  pots  and  placed  in  a  close,  warm 
frame  ;  or  they  may  be  rooted  in  bottles  of  water  and  after- 
wards potted  in  soil.  See  Fig.  52,  ft. 

Nertera,  Nerteria.     Rubiacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  divisions,  or  cuttings.  Any  small 
portion  will  grow  freely,  especially  if  placed  in  a  warm  frame. 

Nessea,  including  Heimia.     Lythrariece. 

May  be  increased  by  means  of  seeds,  divisions,  or  green 
cuttings. 

Nettle-tree.     See  Celtis. 

New  Zealand  Flax.     See  Phormium. 

Nicandra,  Calydermos.     Solanacece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  the  open  border,  or  under  glass  in  the 
north. 

Nicotiana  (Tobacco).     Solanacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  started  under  glass  or  in  a  carefully 
prepared  seed-bed.  The  ornamental  species  sometimes  by 
cuttings. 

Nierembergia.     Solanacece. 

Grown  from  seeds,  under  glass.  Cuttings  of  firm  shoots 
are  also  used. 

Nigella  (Fennel  Flower,  Love-in-a-Mist).     Ranunculacece. 
Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  early  spring  in  the  open. 
Nightshade.     See  Solanum. 
Nine-bark.     See  Spiraea. 


232  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Nolana.      Convolvulacece. 

Seeds  sown  in  the  open  border  during  spring. 
Norantea,  Ascium,  Schwartzia.      Ternstrbmiacece. 

Ripened  cuttings  can  be  rooted  in  sand,  in  heat. 

Norfolk  Island  Pine.     See  Araucaria. 
Norway  Spruce.     See  Picea. 
Notelsea,  Rhysospermum.      Oleacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  firm  side-shoots  in  spring,  usually 
without  heat. 

Nuphar.     Propagated  same  as  Nelumbo  and  Nymphsea,  which 

see. 

Nutmeg.     See  Myristica. 
Nuttallia.     Rosacece. 

May  be  propagated  by  seeds  ;  by  divisions  ;  by  means  of 

suckers,  which  spring  from  the  roots. 

Nyctanthes.     Oleacece. 

Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  should  be  set  in  spring,  in 
bottom  heat. 

Nymphaea,  Castalia  (Water  Lily,  Lotus).     Nymphceacece. 

Seeds,  which  are  rolled  up  in  a  ball  of  clay  and  dropped 
into  a  pond,  or  sown  in  pots  which  are  then  submerged  in 
shallow  water,  either  in-doors  or  out.  Usually  increased  by 
portions  of  the  root-stocks,  which  are  sunk  in  the  pond  and 
held  by  stones,  or  the  tender  species  placed  inside,  in  pans  of 
water.  Some  species  produce  tubers  on  the  root-stocks, 
which  are  used  for  propagation. 

Nyssa  (Pepperidge,  Sour  Gum,  Tupelo-tree).      Cornacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  layers.  The  seeds  should  be 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  else  stratified.  They  usually  lie 
dormant  the  first  year. 

Oak.     See  Quercus. 
Obeliscaria.     See  Rudbeckia. 
Ochna.      Ochnacece. 

During  summer,  cuttings  may  be  made  of  growing  shoots. 
Odontoglossum.     Orchidece. 

Division.     (See  also  under  Orchids.) 


THE    NURSERY  LIST.  233 

(Enocarpus.     Palma. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  suckers. 

(Enothera,  including  Godetia  (Evening  Primrose).      Onagra- 

necr. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  spring  or  summer.  Divisions  may 
be  made.  Cuttings  of  perennials  should  be  placed  in  a  cool 
f rarne  in  the  early  part  of  the  season  before  flowering  begins. 

Okra,  Gumbo  (Hibiscus  escttlentus).     Malvacece. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand,  or  started  in 
pots  often  in  the  north. 

Olax.      Olacinetc. 

Grown  from  cuttings  of  firm  or  mature  shoots  in  heat. 
Olea.      Oleacece. 

The  ornamental  species  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  ripened 
shoots,  either  under  frames  or  in  the  border,  and  also  by 
seeds.  For  propagation  of  O.  Europcea,  see  Olive. 

Oleander.     See  Nerium. 
Olearia,  Eurybia.      Composite. 

Seeds.  Readily  increased  by  cuttings  of  growing  shoots 
placed  in  a  frame. 

Oleaster.     See  Elaeagnus. 

Olive  (Olea  Europcca).      Oleacece. 

The  olive  is  grown  in  large  quantities  from  seed,  especially 
in  Europe.  The  pulp  is  removed  by  masceration  or  by 
treating  with  potash.  The  pits  should  be  cracked  or  else  soft- 
ened by  soaking  in  strong  lye,  otherwise  they  will  lie  dor- 
mant for  one  or  two  years.  Cuttings  of  any  kind  will  grow. 
Limbs,  either  young  or  old,  an  inch  or  two  inches  in 
diameter,  and  from  one  to  two  feet  long,  are  often  stuck  into 
the  ground  where  the  trees  are  to  grow,  or  they  are  some- 
times used  in  the  nursery.  Green  cuttings,  with  the  leaves 
on,  are  often  used,  being  handled  in  frames  or  in  boxes  of 
sand.  Chips  from  old  trunks,  if  kept  warm  and  moist,  will 
grow.  The  olive  is  often  propagated  by  truncheons  of 
trunks.  A  trunk  two  or  three  inches  in  diameter  is  cut  into 
foot  or  two  foot  lengths,  and  each  length  is  split  through  the 
middle.  Each  halfisplantedhorizontally,  bark  up, four  or  five 
inches  deep,  in  warm  moist  soil.  The  sprouts  which  arise  may 
be  allowed  to  grow,  or  they  may  be  made  into  green  cuttings. 
N.  B. — 16 


234 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Knaurs  (see  page  56)  are  sometimes  used.  The  olive  can  be 
budded  or  grafted  in  a  variety  of  ways.  Twig-budding  and 
plate  or  flute-budding  give  admirable  results.  Twig-budding 
is  the  insertion  of  a  small  growing  twig  which  is  cut  from  the 
branch  in  just  the  manner  in  which  shield-buds  are  cut. 

Omphalodes,  Picotia.     Boraginece. 

Freely  increased  by  means  of  seeds  planted  in  spring, 
or  by  divisions. 

Oncidium.     Orchidece. 

Division.  In  some  species  detachable  buds  are  produced 
in  the  inflorescence,  and  these  give  young  plants.  (See  also 
under  Orchids.) 

Oncosperma,  Keppleria.     Palmce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  suckers. 

Onion  (A Ilium  Cepa).     Liliacece. 

Onions  are  mostly  grown  from  seeds,  which  must  be  sown 
as  early  as  possible  in  spring  ;  or  in  the  south  they  may  be 
sown  in  the  fall.  They  are  also  grown  from  "tops,"  which 
are  bulblets  borne  in  the  flower  cluster  These  are  planted 
in  the  spring,  or  in  the  fall  in  mild  climates,  and  they  soon 
grow  into  large  bulbs.  "Sets "are  also  used.  These  are 
very  small  onions,  and  when  planted  they  simply  complete 
their  growth  into  large  bulbs.  Sets  are  procured  by  sowing 
seeds  very  thickly  in  poor  soil.  The  bulbs  soon  crowd  each 
other,  and  growth  is  checked,  causing  them  to  ripen  prema- 
turely. Good  sets  should  not  be  more  than  a-half  inch  in 
diameter.  Very  small  onions  which  are  selected  from  the 
general  crop — called  "rare-ripes" — are  sometimes  used  as 

'  sets,  but  they  are  usually  too  large  to  give  good  results. 
Some  onions — the  "multiplier  "or  "potato  onions" — increase 
themselves  by  division  of  the  bulb.  The  small  bulb,  which 
is  planted  in  the  spring,  splits  up  into  several  distinct  por- 
tions, each  one  of  which  will  multiply  itself  in  the  same 
manner  when  planted  the  following  year, 

Onobrychis  (Saintfoin).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  remain. 
Onosina  (Golden  Drop).     Boraginece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  the  open  in  spring.     Perennial  species  by 
cuttings  in  summer. 
Opuntia  (Prickly  Pear,   Indian  Fig).      Cac'tece. 

Seeds  grow  readily,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  ordinary  sandy 
soil,  either  in  the  house  or  out-doors.  The  joints  grow  read- 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


235 


ily  if  laid  on  sand.     It  is  customary  to  allow  these  cuttings  to 
dry  several  days  before  planting  them.      See  also  Cactus. 

Orach  (Atriplex  hortetisis}.      Chenopodiacece. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 

Orange  (Citrtts  Aurantiuni).      Rutacecc. 

Orange  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  should  be 
cleaned  and  stratified  in  sand  or  other  material,  until  sow- 
ing time.  The  seeds  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  hard 
and  dry.  Some  prefer  to  let  the  seeds  sprout  in  the  sand 
and  then  sow  them  in  the  nursery,  but  they  must  be  carefully 
handled.  The  seeds  are  usually  sown  in  seed  beds,  after  the 
manner  of  apple  seeds,  and  the  seedlings  are  transplanted 
the  next  fall  or  spring  into  nursery  rows.  Care  must  al- 
ways be  exercised  in  handling  orange  plants,  as  they  are 
often  impatient  of  transplanting.  Oranges  grow  readily  from 
cuttings,  although  cuttage  is  not  often  practiced.  Green  cut- 
tings, handled  under  a  frame,  give  good  results.  Mature 
wood,  either  one  or  two  years  old,  can  be  treated  after  the 
manner  of  long  grape  cuttings.  They  must  have  an  abund- 
ance of  moisture.  Layers  are  sometimes  made. 

The  named  varieties  are  shield-budded  upon  other  stocks. 
Grafting  can  be  practiced,  but  it  is  often  unsatisfactory. 
The  nursery  stocks  are  commonly  budded  in  the  spring,  after 
having  grown  in  the  rows  one  year,  which  is  two  years  from 
the  sowing  of  the  seed.  If  thorn-bearing  varieties  are  to  be 
propagated,  a  thorn  with  a  bud  in  its  axil  is  often  cut  with 
the  bud,  to  serve  as  a  handle  in  place  of  the  leaf  stalk,  which 
is  used  in  summer  budding.  Many  stocks  are  used  for  the 
orange.  The  leading  ones  are  sweet  or  common  orange,  sour 
orange  (Citrtis  Aurantium,  var.  Bigaradia},  pomelo  (var.  po- 
melanaor  decumana},  Otaheite  orange,  trifoliate  orange  (Cit- 
rus trifoliata),  and  various  lemons,  as  the  "French  "  or  Flor- 
ida Rough  and  the  Chinese.  For  general  purposes,  the  sweet 
and  sour  orange  stocks  are  probably  the  best.  The  sour 
stock  is  obtained  from  wild  seeds,  this  variety  having  exten- 
sively run  wild  in  Florida  from  early  times.  The  trifoliate 
and  Otaheite  stocks  are  used  for  dwarfing  or  for  small  grow- 
ing sorts,  as  many  of  the  Japanese  varieties.  The  trifoliate 
orange  is  also  one  of  the  hardiest  of  the  orange  stocks,  and 
its  use  will  probably  increase  upon  the  northern  limit  of  the 
orange  belt.  Old  orange  trees  can  be  top-budded  with  ease. 
It  is  advisable  to  cut  them  back  a  year  before  the  operation 
is  performed,  in  order  to  secure  young  shoots.  In  ordinary 
greenhouse  practice,  the  seedlings  of  the  pomelo  make 


236  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

good  stocks.     They  can  be  established  in  three-inch  pots  the 
first  season,  and  veneer-grafted  the  next  winter. 

Orchids.     Or  chide  ce. 

The  method  of  propagating  these  plants  must  in  each  spe- 
cies be  adapted  to  the  habit  and  mode  of  growth.  The 
easiest  and  safest  plan  for  the  vast  majority  is  by  division, 
but  seeds,  cuttings,  layers,  offsets,  and  very  rarely  roots,  are 
also  utilized.  It  is  important  that  artificial  means  of  increase 
should  only  be  adopted  where  the  individual  plants  are  in 
robust  health.  Wirh  many  orchids  the  struggle  of  life  under 
the  unnatural  conditions  we  supply,  is  necessarily  severe,  and 
any  operation  which  transforms  one  weak  plant  into  two  or 
more  weaker  ones,  is  to  be  deprecated.  In  cases  where  the 
only  method  available  necessitates  disturbance  at  the  roots, 
consideration  must  be  paid  to  the  constitution  of  the  species, 
for  some  orchids,  even  when  perfectly  healthy,  strongly  re- 
sent interference. 

Seeds.  In  no  class  of  cultivated  plants  is  propagation  by 
seeds  more  difficult  and  tedious  than  it  is  with  orchids.  In 
all  cases,  fertilization  must  be  performed  by  hand.  In  Eng- 
land, the  length  of  time  required  for  the  capsules  to  ripen 
varies  from  three  months  to  a  year.  Good  seeds  form  a  very 
small  proportion  of  the  whole,  and  it  occasionally  happens 
that  the  contents  of  a  capsule  will  not  produce  a  single  plant. 
This,  however,  as  well  as  the  difficulty  experienced  in  Eng- 
land in  rearing  plants  to  the  flowering  stage,  is  primarily 
due  to  the  deficiency  of  sunlight,  and  in  such  a  bright  cli- 
mate as  that  of  the  United  States,  would  not  be  likely  to 
occur.  Various  methods  of  sowing  are  in  vogue,  such  as 
sprinkling  over  pieces  of  wood  and  cork  or  tree-fern  stem, 
and  on  the  top  of  moss  and  peat,  in  which  established  plants 
of  the  same  or  a  nearly  related  species  are  growing.  The 
last  is  probably  the  best,  but  it  is  always  advisable  to  try 
several  methods.  Of  course,  the  material  on  which  the  seeds 
are  scattered  must  always  be  kept  moist  and  shaded.  The 
period  between  germination  and  the  development  of  the  first 
root  is  the  most  critical  in  the  life  of  a  seedling  orchid. 
After  they  are  of  sufficient  size  to  handle  they  are  potted  off 
into  tiny  pots,  and  as  they  gain  strength,  are  given  treatment 
approximating  that  of  adult  plants. 

Division.  Cypripediums  may  be  taken  as  an  example 
where  this  is  readily  done.  It  is  simply  necessary  to  care- 
fully shake  off  the  soil  from  the  roots,  and  by  the  aid  of  a 
sharp  knife,  sever  the  plant  into  as  many  pieces  as  are  re- 
quired. It  is  always  advisable  to  leave  one  or  more  leading 


THE  NURSER  Y  LIST.  237 

growths  to  each  portion.  This  method  may  be  practiced  for 
the  increase  of  phaius,  masdevallia,  sobralia,  ada,  the  ever- 
green section  of  calanthe,  and  all  of  similar  habit. 

In  nearly  all  those  kinds  where  the  pseudo-bulbs  are  united 
by  a  procumbent  rhizome,  such  as  occurs  in  cattleyas,  the 
process  is  slower.  It  seems  to  be  natural  for  these  plants  to 
continue  year  after  year,  producing  a  single  growth  from  the 
old  pseudo-bulb.  To  obtain  additional '  'leads, "  the  rhizomes 
should  be  cut  through  in  early  spring,  two  or  three  pseudo- 
bulbs  being  reserved  to  each  piece.  A  bud  will  then  push 
from  the  base  of  each  pseudo-bulb  nearest  the  division,  and 
a  new  lead  is  formed.  The  pieces  should  not  be  separated 
until  this  is  well  established,  and  three  years  may  sometimes 
be  required.  Laelia,  catasetum,  coelogyne,  lycaste,  cymbid- 
ium,  zygopetalum,  odontoglossu-m,  oncidium,  miltonia,  etc., 
are  treated  in  this  manner. 

Cuttings. — This  method  is  available  for  those  kinds  with 
long,  jointed  stems,  like  dendrobium  and  epidendrum.  Just 
before  the  plants  commence  to  grow,  say  in  February,  the 
old  pseudo-bulbs  are  cut  up  into  lengths,  and  laid  on  a  moist, 
warm  surface,  such  as  on  a  pan  of  moss  in  a  propagating 
frame.  Young  offshoots  will  shortly  appear  at  the  nodes, 
and  when  large  enough  are  potted  off  with  the  old  piece  at- 
tached. This  plan  may  be  used  also  for  barkeria  and  mi- 
crostylis. 

It  is  well  to  remember  that  in  any  method  of  propagation 
where  the  pseudo-bulb  is  divided,  the  vigor  of  the  young 
plant  is  proportionate  to  the  amount  of  reserve  material  sup- 

Elied  it.  However  suitable  the  external  conditions  may  be 
)r  growth,  it  is  for  some  time  entirely  dependent  for  susten- 
ance on  the  old  piece  from  which  it  springs.  Dendrobium 
Phalcenopsis  is  a  case  in  point.  If  a  pseudo-bulb  is  cut  into 
say  three  pieces,  it  will  take  at  least  two  years  for  the 
young  plants  to  reach  flowering  strength,  but  frequently  by 
using  the  entire  pseudo-bulb,  we  can  get  in  a  single  year  a 
growth  quite  as  large  as  the  old  one. 

The  treatment  of  young  orchids  should  be  founded  on 
what  suits  the  parents.  As  a  rule,  however,  they  require 
more  careful  nursing,  and  some  of  the  conditions  must  be 
modified.  Drought,  intense  light  and  cold  draughts  must  be 
avoided.  For  many  orchids,  especially  those  from  equatorial 
regions,  where  the  atmospheric  conditions  alternate  between 
saturation  and  intense  heat  and  dryness,  it  is  necessary,  in 
order  to  induce  flowering,  that  nature,  to  some  extent  at  least, 
should  be  imitated.  With  young  plants,  by  whatever  method 
they  may  be  obtained,  the  supply  of  water  must  only  be  re- 


238  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

duced  in  accordance  with  the  weather  and  season,  and  be- 
yond that,  no  attempt  at  resting  made.  In  cases,  however, 
where  plants  have  been  divided  or  made  into  cuttings,  a  very 
limited  supply  of  water  is  needed  at  first ;  but  to  prevent  ex- 
haustion, the  atmosphere  should  always  be  kept  laden  with 
moisture. 

Oreopanax.     Araliacece. 

Seeds,  and  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots,  or  division  of  well 
established  plants. 

Ornithogalum  (Star  of  Bethlehem).     Liliacece. 

Seeds.  Commonly  by  bulbels,  and  by  division  of  the 
clumps. 

Ornus.     See  Fraxinus. 
Orobus  (Bitter  Vetch).     Leguminosce. 

Readily  propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  dividing  the  tufts. 
Orontium.     Aroidece. 

Commonly  increased  by  division,  but  seeds  may  be  used. 
Orpine.     See  Sedium. 
Osage  Orange.     See  Maclura. 
Osier.     See  Salix  and  Cornus. 
Osmanthus  (Japan  Holly).      Oleacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  under  glass,  or  by  grafting  on  os- 
manthus  stock,  or  on  privet. 

Osmunda  (Flowering  Fern).     Filices. 

Mostly  by  division  ;  sometimes  by  spores.     See  Ferns. 
Ostrya  (Hop  Hornbeam,  Ironwood).     Cupuliferce. 

Best  grown  from  seeds.  Also  increased  by  layering  ;  or  it 
can  be  grafted.  The  European  species  is  often  grafted  upon 
the  hornbeam  (carpinus). 

Otkonna,  Aristotela,  including  Doria  (Ragwort).     Composite. 

Very  easily  propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings.  The  leaves 
also  take  root. 

Ouvirandra  (Lattice-leaf).     Naiadacea . 

The  plants  are  divided,  or  seeds  are  used  when  they  can 
be  obtained. 

Oxalis.      Gtraniacece. 

Seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings.  The  tuberiferous  species 
are  increased  by  the  small  tubers  which  form  upon  the  roots. 


THE    NURSERY  LIST. 


233 


OxyCOCCUS.     See  Cranberry. 
Oxydendron  (Sorrel-tree).     Ericacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  must  be  handled  carefully  in 
light  soil.  Also  by  layers,  which,  however,  often  root  with 
difficulty. 

Oxylobium,  including  Callistachys,  Podolobium.     Leguminosce. 
Increased  by  seeds  and  layers.      Cuttings  of  rather  firm 
side  young  shoots,  made  during  spring. 
Oyster  Plant.     See  Salsify. 
Oxytropis.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand  ;  also 
by  dividing  the  plant  in  spring. 

Pachira,  Carolinea      Malvaceae. 

Seeds.  Large  cuttings  cut  at  a  joint,  with  the  leaves  on, 
in  heat. 

Pseony  (Peony,  Piney).     Ranunculaccce. 

Seeds,  giving  new  varieties,  are  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  The 
seedlings  seldom  rise  above  the  surface  the  first  year,  all  their 
energies  being  spent  in  the  formation  of  roots.  The  common 
herbaceous  varieties  are  oftenest  propagated  by  division  of 
the  clumps.  Each  portion  should  possess  at  least  one  bud 
upon  the  crown.  All  woody  species  may  be  increased  by 
layers  and  cuttings.  Cuttings  are  taken  late  in  summer,  cut 
to  a  heel,  and  are  handled  in  a  frame  or  cool  greenhouse. 
During  winter  they  should  be  kept  from  freezing.  The 
shrubby  species  and  P.  Moutan  are  often  grafted,  and  all 
species  can  be  handled  in  this  way.  The  operation  is  per- 
formed in  late  summer  or  early  autumn,  and  the  grafts  are 
stored  in  sand  or  moss  where  they  will  not  freeze.  The  next 
spring  they  are  planted  out.  The  cion  is  made  from  a  strong 
short  shoot,  destitute  of  flower  buds,  and  is  set  upon  a  piece 
of  root,  as  described  and  figured  on  a  previous  page  (p.  88, 
Fig.  85).  Some  prefer  to  cut  a  wedge-shaped  portion  from 
the  side  of  the  stock,  in  which  to  set  the  cion,  rather  than  to 
split  the  stock  ;  but  either  practice  is  good.  Strong  roots  of 
various  varieties  or  species  may  be  used.  The  Chinese  paeony 
(P.  Moutan],  P.officinalis  and  P.  albi  flora  are  probably  often  • 
est  used. 

Painted-cup.     See  Castilleia. 

Palafoxia.     Composita. 

Seeds,  commonly  sown  under  glass,  or  in  mild  climates 
sown  in  the  open. 


240 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Palicourea.     Rubmcece. 

Cuttings,  made  in  spring  under  glass. 
Paliurus,    Aubletia  (Christ's  Thorn).     Rhamnece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  by  layers  or  by  cuttings  of  the 
roots. 

Palma-Christi.     See  Ricinus. 

Palms.     Palmce. 

Palms  are  mostly  grown  from  imported  seeds.  These 
should  always  be  sown  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat,  in  a  mixture 
of  coarse  loam  and  sand.  A  hot-bed,  established  upon  the 
greenhouse  bench,  is  an  excellent  place  in  which  to  start 
palm  seeds.  Some  species  are  increased  by  suckers,  which 
arise  from  the  crown  or  roots.  For  more  explicit  directions, 
see  the  various  genera. 

Pampas  Grass.     See  Gynerium. 

Panax  (Ginseng).     Araliacece. 

Cuttings  of  stems  and  roots.  Stems  of  old  plants  may  be 
cut  into  pieces  an  inch  or  two  long  and  inserted  in  sand  in 
heat.  Or  young  plants  can  be  obtained  by  cutting  down  the 
tops  of  strong  plants  and  then  separating  the  suckers  which 
arise. 

Pancratium  and  Hymenocallis.     Amaryllidece, 

Seeds,  sown  in  pans  in  heat,  are  sometimes  employed. 
Commonly  increased  by  offsets,  which  usually  form  freely 

Pandanus  (Screw  Pine).     Pandanece. 

Seeds  and  suckers,  as  in  palms.  Also  by  cuttings  of  the 
young  growth  in  heat.  The  "seeds"  are  really  fruits,  and 
if  in  good  condition  several  plants,  one  to  ten,  are  obtainable 
from  each  ;  they  should  be  separated  when  well  furnished 
with  roots. 

Pansy.     See  Viola. 

Papaver  (Poppy).      Papaveracece. 

Seeds — usually  sown  out-doors — and  divisions.     P.  onen- 

talis  and  allied  species  are  easily  propagated  by  root  cuttings 

in  sandy  soil  under  glass  in  autumn. 

Papaw-tiee.     See  Carica  ;  also  Asimina. 
Papyrus.      Cyperacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds  and  by  divisions,  chiefly 
the  latter. 


THE   NURSERY  LIST.  24 r 

Pardanthus.     Iridece. 

Seeds,  divisions,  and  cuttings  of  young  growth. 

Paris.     Liliacecc. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 

Paris  Daisy.     See  Marguerite. 
Parkinsonia.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  mostly.      Cuttings. 
Parnassia  (Grass  of  Parnassus).      Saxifragece. 

May  be  propagated  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 

Parrotia.     Hamamelidece. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  by  layers. 
Parrya.      Crudferce. 

Seeds  and  divisions. 

Parsley  (Apium  Pelroselinuni}.      Umbelliferce. 

Seeds,  which  are  usually  sown  out-doors.  The  roots  may 
be  taken  up  in  fall  to  be  forced  under  glass. 

Parsnip  (Pastinaca  saliva].      Umbelliferce. 

Fresh  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 
Parthenium.     Compositce. 

Seeds,  sown  under  glass,  or  in  the  open. 

Pasque-flower.     See  Anemone. 
Passiflora  (Passion  Flower).     Passiflorece. 

Seeds,  sown  under  glass.     Cuttings  of  the  young  growth 

root  easily  in  sand  in  a  frame.     Varieties  are  sometimes 

veneer-grafted,  e.  g. ,  P.  cocdnea. 

Paulownia.     Srrophularinece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  carefully  prepared  soil,  either  in  a  seed- 
bed or  in  a  cold  frame.  Cuttings  of  ripe  wood  or  of  roots, 
made  in  fall  or  spring. 

Pavonia.     Malvaceae. 

Seeds,  and  green  cuttings  in  a  frame. 

Pea  (Pisum  sativuni).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand.  The  plants 
are  hardy  and  seeds  may  be  sown  very  early. 


2^2  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Peach  (Prunus  Persica)       Rosacece. 

The  peacn  is  perhaps  the  easiest  to  propagate  of  all  north- 
ern fruit  trees.  Stocks  are  universally  grown  from  seeds, 
although  root-cuttings  will  grow.  The  seeds  should  be 
buried  out-doors  in  the  fall,  and  shallow  enough  so  that  they 
will  be  fully  exposed  to  frost.  Some  prefer  to  simply  spread 
them  upon  the  surface  of  the  ground  and  cover  them  lightly 
with  straw  to  prevent  them  from  drying  out.  The  pits 
should  be  kept  moist,  and  by  spring  most  of  them  will  be 
cracked.  These  which  do  not  open  should  be  cracked  by 
hand,  for  if  planted  they  will  not  germinate  until  a  year 
later  than  the  others  The  "meats"  or  kernels  are  sorted 
out  and  planted  early  in  drills.  Or  some  prefer  to  sprout  the 
seeds  in  the  house,  in  order  to  select  the  best  for  planting. 
Some  growers  upon  a  small  scale  pinch  off  the  tip  of  the 
rootlet  to  make  the  root  branch.  Pits  should  be  secured,  of 
course,  from  strong  and  healthy  trees,  but  the  opinion  that 
"natural  seed,1'  or  that  from  unbudded  trees,  is  necessarily 
best,  is  unfounded. 

The  seeds  should  be  planted  in  rich  soil,  and  the  stocks 
will  be  large  enough  to  bud  the  same  year.  Airy  which  are 
not  large  enough  to  bud  may  be  cut  back  to  the  ground  the 
next  spring,  and  one  shoot  be  allowed  to  grow  for  budding  , 
but  such  small  stocks  are  usually  destroyed,  as  it  does  not 
pay  to  bestow  the  extra  labor  and  use  of  land  upon  them 
When  the  buds  have  grown  one  season,  the  trees  are  ready 
for  sale — at  one  year  from  the  bud  and  two  years  from  the 
seed.  Peach  trees  are  always  shield-budded,  and  the  opera- 
tion is  fully  described  on  pages  68  to  75.  Grafting  can  be 
done,  but  as  budding  is  so  easily  performed,  there  is  no  occa- 
sion for  it.  The  peach  shoots  are  so  pithy  that,  in  making 
cions,  it  is  well  to  leave  a  portion  of  the  old  wood  upon  the 
lower  end— extending  part  way  up  the  cut — to  give  the  cion 
strength 

Peaches  are  nearly  always  worked  upon  peaches  in  this 
country  Plums  are  occasionly  employed  for  damp  and 
strong  soils.  Myrobolan  is  sometimes  used,  but  it  cannot  be 
recommended.  All  plums  dwarf  the  peach  more  or  less. 
The  hard-shell  almond  is  a  good  stock  'for  very  light  and  dry 
soils  The  Peen-to  and  similar  peaches  are  worked  upon 
common  peach  stocks 

The  nectarine  is  propagated  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as 
the  peach.  The  ornamental  peaches  are  budded  upon  com- 
mon peach-stocks  in  the  same  manner  as  the  fruit-bearing 
sorts 

For  Prunus  Simoni,  see  Plum. 


THE  NURSERY   LIST. 


243 


Pea-nut  (Arachis  hypogcea}.     Legunnnosce. 

As  a  field  crop,  the  seeds  should  be  planted  where  the 
plants  are  to  stand  For  propagation  in  greenhouses,  see 
Arachis. 

Pear,  Alligator  or  Avocado.     See  Persea 
Pear  (fyrus  comnnims,  P   sinensis}.     Rosacece 

Pear  seedlings  are  grown  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of 
the  apple,  which  see  Pear  stocks  are  mostly  imported  from 
France,  however,  as  the  leaf-blight  is  so  destructive  to  them 
here  as  to  render  their  culture  unprofitable.  This  leaf-blight 
is  a  fungus  (Entonwsporium  macalatum),  and  recent  experi- 
ment has  shown  that  it  can  be  readily  overcome  by  four  or 
five  thorough  sprayings  with  Bordeaux  mixture,  so  that  there 
is  reason  to  hope  that  the  growing  of  pear  stocks  may  yet 
become  profitable  in  this  country.  Heretofore,  the  only 
means  of  mitigating  the  ravages  of  this  blight  was  the  un- 
certain one  of  inducing  a  strong  growth  early  in  the  season 
Even  when  pear  stocks  are  raised  in  this  country,  they  are 
grown  from  imported  French  seed.  Aside  from  its  cheap- 
ness, however,  this  foreign  seed  probably  possesses  no  super- 
iority over  domestic  seed  But  pear  seed  is  so  difficult  to 
obtain  in  America  that  it  is  practically  out  of  the  market. 

Pear  seedlings  should  be  taken  up  and  removed  from  the 
seed-bed  the  first  fall.  The  foreign  stocks  are  imported  when 
a  year  old  from  the  seed  The  seedlings  are  trimmed  or 
"dressed"  (see  page  69),  and  are  set  into  nursery  rows  the 
following  spring.  The  next  season — that  is,  the  season  in 
which  the  stocks  are  transplanted — shield-budding  is  per- 
formed, as  upon  the  apple  The  budding  season  usually  be- 
gins late  in  July  or  early  in  August  in  the  north  If  the 
stocks  are  small,  of  "second  size,"  they  may  stand  overwin- 
ter and  be  budded  the  second  year.  Pear  trees  are  sold  at 
two  and  three  years  from  the  bud  Pears  do  hot  succeed 
well  when  root-grafted,  except  when  a  long  cion  is  used,  for 
the  purpose  of  securing  own-rooted  trees  (see  page  78)  Dor- 
mant buds  of  the  pear  may  be  used  upon  large  stocks  in  early 
spring,  the  same  as  upon  the  apple,  and  buds  may  be  kept 
upon  ice  for  use  in  early  summer  (see  page  74) 

Pears  are  dwarfed  by  working  them  upon  the  quince  The 
Angers  quince  is  the  best  stock.  The  ordinary  orange  quince 
and  its  kin  make  weak  and  short-lived  trees.  Quince  stocks 
are  obtained  from  ordinary  cuttings  or  from  mound-layering, 
the  latter  method  giving  much  the  better  stocks  (see  Quince) 
The  layers  should  stand  until  late  in  autumn  of  the  second 
season,  when  they  will  be  found  to  be  well  rooted,  and  may 


244 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


then  be  taken  off,  trimmed  up  and  fitted  to  plant  as  stocks 
the  following  spring,  and  budded  in  August.  It  is  imperative 
to  set  the  bud  as  low  as  possible  in  order  to  secure  long-lived 
trees.  Some  varieties  do  not  unite  well  with  the  quince,  and 
if  it  is  desired  to  dwarf  them,  they  should  be  double-worked 
(see  page  91). 

The  pear  can  also  be  grown  upon  the  apple,  thorn  and 
mountain  ash.  Upon  the  apple  it  is  short-lived,  although 
pear  cions,  set  in  the  top  of  an  old  apple  tree,  often  bear 
large  fruits  for  a  few  years.  When  pear  stocks  cannot  be 
had,  pears  are  sometimes  worked  upon  apple  roots.  If  the 
cions  are  long  they  will  emit  roots,  and  when  the  apple  nurse 
fails  the  pear  becomes  own-rooted  Good  dwarf  trees  are 
often  secured  upon  the  thorn,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe 
that  some  of  the  thorns  will  be  found  to  be  preferable  to 
quince  stocks  for  severe  climates  and  for  special  purposes. 
The  subject  is  little  understood.  The  mountain  ash  is  some- 
times used  for  the  purpose  of  growing  pears  upon  a  sandy 
soil,  but  its  use  appears  to  be  of  little  consequence. 

Pears  of  the  Le  Conte  and  Keiffer  type  are  often  grown 
from  cuttings  in  the  south.  Cuttings  are  made  of  the  recent 
mature  growth,  about  a  foot  in  length,  and  are  planted  in 
the  open  ground  after  the  manner  of  long  grape  cuttings. 
Le  Conte,  Garber,  Smith,  and  other  very  strong  growers  of 
the  Chinese  type,  are  probably  best  when  grown  from  cut- 
tings. They  soon  overgrow  French  stocks,  as  also  apple 
stocks,  which  have  been  used  to  some  extent ;  but  if  long 
cions  are  used,  own-rooted  trees  are  soon  obtained,  and  the 
stock  will  have  served  a  useful  purpose  in  pushing  the  cion 
the  first  two  or  three  years. 

Pecan  (flicoria  Pecari).      Juglandece, 

Propagated  by  seeds.  These  may  be  planted  as  soon  as 
ripe,  or  stratified  until  spring.  The  ground  should  be  well 
prepared  and  the  nuts  planted  about  3  inches  deep.  By 
grafting  on  pecan  or  common  hickory  stock  that  is  not  over 
2  years  old.  Cions  about  6  inches  long  should  be  cut  during 
the  winter  and  put  in  a  cool  place  to  hold  them  back  until  the 
stocks  have  fairly  started  in  the  spring.  The  stalks  should 
then  be  cut  off  at  the  crown  and  the  cion  inserted.  The 
tongue-graft  gives  the  best  result.  Bandage  securely  and 
bank  with  earth  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  cion,  to  keep  it 
moist. 

Pelargonium  (Geranium,  Stork's  Bill).      Geraniacece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  light  soi!  with  mild  heat,  are  sometimes 
employed.  Commonly  increased  by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots, 


THE    NURSERY   LIST. 


245 


which  grow  readily  (Figs.  52,  e,  and  55).  The  fancy  or 
show  geraniums  are  often  grown  from  root-cuttings,  but 
sometimes  will  not  come  true.  Geraniums  can  also  be 
grafted.  (See  page  89,  herbaceous  grafting.) 

Pelecyphora  (Hatchet  Cactus).     Cactece. 

Propagated  most  freely  by  seeds  in  moderate  heat,  and  by 
cuttings  made  of  any  small  shoots  that  arise  from  the  base 
See  also  Cactus. 

Peliosanthes.     Hcemodoracece. 

Suckers. 
Peltandra.     Aroidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  when  fresh,  or  b  ydivision. 
Pennyroyal  (Mentha  Pulegiuni}.     Labiatce. 

Seeds  and  divisions. 
Pentapetes.     Slerculiacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots. 
Pentas.     Rulriacece 

Propagated,  with  difficulty,  by  seeds  or  cuttings  of  half- 
ripened  wood. 

Pentstemon  (Beard-tongue).     Scrophularinece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  pans  and  placed  under  a  frame  ;  or  they 
are  sometimes  sown  in  the  border  where  the  plants  are  to 
stand.  Also  by  division,  and  rarely  by  cuttings  in  summer. 

Peperomia,  including  Micropiper.     Piperacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  single  joints  of  firm  stems  root  easily 
in  a  peaty  soil.  Water  sparingly. 

Pepper,  Black.     See  Piper. 

Pepperidge.     See  Nyssa. 

Pepper-grass,  Curled  Cress  (Lepidium  sativum).      Cruciferce. 

Grown  from  seeds,  either  under  glass  for  early  crops  or  in 
the  open  air. 

Peppermint  (Mentha  piperita).     Labiatce. 

Divisions  of  the  creeping  and  rooting  stems  are  planted  to 
multiply  the  plant,  and  plantations  are  renewed  every  three 
or  four  years. 
Pepper,  Red  or  Cayenne  (Capsicum).     Solanacece. 

Seeds,  sown  out-doors,  or  in  the  north  oftener  started 
in  the  house. 


246  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Pereskia  (Barbadoes  Gooseberry)       Cactece. 

Seeds  Cuttings,  as  described  under  Cactus  P  aculeate 
is  much  used  as  a  stock  for  epiphyllums  P.  Bleo  is  some- 
times used  for  the  same  purpose,  as  it  is  fully  LL_  good  as  the 
other  species  Cuttings  of  P.  aculeata  can  be  made  a  foot  or 
more  in  length,  and  of  sufficient  size  for  immediate  use,  or, 
indeed,  the  graft  may  be  inserted  when  the  cutting  is  made 

Perilla,  Dentidia.     Labiatce. 

Sow  the  seeds  in  early  spring  in  pans  or  boxes,  and  place 
in  a  gentle  heat  Or  southwards,  seeds  may  be  sown  in  the 
open 

Periploca      Asclepiadece 

Seeds  Increased  mostly  by  layers  or  cuttings  under  glass, 
during  summer  or  autumn.  Root  cuttings  succeed 

Periwinkle.     See  Vinca. 

Pernettya.     See  Canarina 

Pereea  (Alligator  or  Avocado  Pear).     Laurineoc 

Seeds.  Layers  of  ripened  shoots  may  be  made  in  autnmn  , 
or  cuttings  of  firm  shoots  in  spring,  under  glass 

Persimmon  (Diospyros  Kaki  and  D    Virginiana]       Ebenacece 

Stocks  are  readily  grown  from  seed,  and  they  usually 
attain  sufficient  size  for  budding  the  first  year.  The  native 
persimmon  (Dtspyros  Virginiana]  is  largely  used  as  a  stock 
for  the  Japanese  persimmon  or  kaki.  Imported  stocks  are 
occasionally  employed,  but  the  native  is  more  vigorous,  as  a 
rule,  and  probably  better  Persimmons  are  shield-budded 
the  same  as  peaches,  and  they  may  be  root-grafted  and  top- 
grafted  by  ordinary  methods 

Persoonia,  Lmkia      Proteacece 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  ripened  shoots,  under  glass 
Peruvian  Bark.     See  Cinchona. 
Petalostemon  (Prairie  Clover)      Leguminosce 

Seeds  and  divisions 
Petunia.     Solanacece 

Seeds,  either  in-doors  or  in  the  garden.  Choice  and  double 
varieties  are  often  increased  by  cuttings,  which  grow  readily 

Phacelia,  Eutoca,  Whitlavia.     Hydrophyllacece 

The  annuals  are  increased  by  seeds,  and  the  perennials 
by  seeds  and  divisions. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  247 

Phaedranassa,  including  Leperiza  (Queen  Lily).    Amaryllidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  bulbels. 
Phaius.      Or  chide  ce. 

Division  of  the  bulbs.      (See  also  under  Orchids.) 

Phalaenopsis.     Orchidece. 

These  are  very  slow  and  difficult  to  propagate.  In  the 
majority  of  the  species  it  can  only  be  done  where  a  lateral 
offshoot  is  made  from  the  main  stem.  Some  species,  such  as 
P.  Luddemanniana,  and  more  rarely  P.  amabilis,  P.  Stuartianq 
and  P.  Schilleriana,  develop  plantlets  on  the  old  flower 
scapes.  By  pegging  these  down  on  a  basket  of  moss  they 
may  be  established  and  afterwards  separated.  P.  Stuartiana 
and  P.  deliciosa  have  been  known  to  produce  plants  on  the 
roots.  Other  instances  of  root-proliferation  are  recorded  in 
Saccolabium  micranthum  and  a  species  of  cyrtopodium.  (See 
under  Orchids.) 

Phalaris.     Graminece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  but  the  sports  by  divisions. 

Phaleria,  Drimyspermum.      Thymeleacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  heat  in  spring  ;  or  by  cuttings 
of  the  young  shoots,  which  should  be  inserted  in  bottom 
heat. 

Pharbitis.     See  Ipomo3a. 

Phaseolus    (Bean,   Kidney,  Pole,  String;  French  Bean,  etc.), 

Leguminosce.  . 

The  ornamental  greenhouse  kinds  are  grown  from  seeds 
planted  in  light  soil  in  a  warm  propagating  house.  See  Bean, 

Phebalium.     Rutacece. 

May  be  increased  by  cuttings  of  the  young  wood,  under  a 
glass. 

Phellodendron  (Cork  Tree) .     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  layers  and  by  root  cuttings. 

Philadelphia  (Mock  Orange,  Syringa).     Saxifragece. 

Seeds,  layers,  suckers  and  cuttings.  Layers  are  most 
used.  Cuttings  of  mature  wood  are  sometimes  employed. 
Some  well-marked  varieties,  like  vars.  nana  and  aurea  of  P. 
coronarius,  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  soft  wood  in  summer 
in  frames. 


248  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Phillyrea  (Jasmine  Box,  Mock  Privet).      Oleacece. 

Seeds.      May   be  propagated  by   cuttings,    layers,    or   by 
grafting  on  the  privet. 
Philodendron.     Aroidece. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  and  by  dividing  the  stems,  allowi  ng 
two  or  three  joints  to  each  piece,  inserting  them  in  pots  in  a 
brisk  heat. 
Phlomis.     Labiatce. 

All  of  the  species  may  be  increased  by  seeds  ;  the  herba- 
ceous kinds  by  divisions,  and  the  shrubby  sorts  also  by  cut- 
tings. 
Phlox.     Polemoniacece. 

The  annuals  are  grown  from  seeds  sown  in  the  open.  The 
perennials  are  grown  from  seeds,  divisions,  cuttings  of  stems 
and  roots.  Cuttings  made  during  summer,  and  handled  in  a 
frame,  do  well.  The  roots  are  cut  into  short  pieces,  and  are 
then  handled  in  pans  or  flats  under  cover. 
Phoenix,  Elate  (Date  Palm).  Palmes. 

Increased  by  imported  seeds,  sown  in  a  sandy  soil,  in  a 
mild  hot-bed.     Also  by  suckers.      See  also  Date. 
Phormium  (Flax  Lily,  or  New  Zealand  Flax).     Liliacece. 

Seeds.     Also   by    division    of    the    crowns    before  growth 
commences  in  spring. 
Photinia,  including  Eriobotrya.     Rosacece. 

Stratified  seeds  or  half-ripened  cuttings  under  glass.     The 
loquat,   P.    Japonica,   is  grown   from    layers  or  cuttings  of 
ripe  wood,   and  it  is  worked  upon  seedling  stocks  or  upon 
thorn  or  quince,  after  the  manner  of  pears. 
Phylica.     Rhamnccc. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of   growing  shoots   may  be  inserted  [in 
sandy  soil,  in  a  warm  house. 
Phyllanthus,  including  Xylophylla.     Euphorbicecece. 

Increased  by  means  of  cuttings  of  hard  shoots  in  heat. 
Phyllis.     Rubiacece. 

Seeds,  or  cuttings  under  glass. 
Phyllocactus,  including   Phyllocereus   and   Disocactus   (Leaf 

Cactus).     Cactece. 

Seeds  germinate  readily  in  sandy  soil.  Usually  increased 
by  cuttings  of  the  stems,  five  or  six  inches  long,  placed  in 
sandy  soil,  which  is  kept  only  slightly  moist.  See  also 
Cactus. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


249 


Phyllocladus,  Thalamia  (Celery-leaved  Pine-Tree).      Coniferce 
Cuttings  of   the  ripened  shoots  under  glass,   in   spring. 
When  the  cuttings  begin  callusing,  give  mild  bottom  heat. 

Physalis  (Ground  or  Winter  Cherry,  Strawberry  Tomato,  Husk 

Tomato).      Solanacece. 

Seeds,  sown   out-doors   or   under  cover.     Perennials  by 
division  and  growing  cuttings. 

Physianthus,  Schubertia.     Asclepiadece. 

Seeds,  usually  started  in  heat.     Cuttings  of   firm  shoots 
usually  side  shoots,  under  glass. 

Physochlaina.     Solanacetz. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  soft  wood. 
Phyteuma,  Rapunculus   (Horned  Rampion).     Campanulacece 

Easily  increased  by  seeds  or  by  divisions,  in  spring. 
Phytolacca  (Spoke,  Skoke,  Poke).     Phytolaccacece. 

May  be  propagated  by  means  of  seeds,  or  by  divisions. 
Picea.      Coniferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sometimes  by  layers,  or  grafts.  P. 
excelsa  (Norway  spruce)  makes  a  good  stock  ;  the  veneer 
graft,  under  glass,  in  winter,  succeeds  better  than  any 
method  of  out-door  work  practicable  in  our  climate  ;  if  the 
graft  is  inserted  near  the  base  in  young  plants,  it  is  quite  pos- 
sible to  obtain  them  on  their  own  roots  after  a  few  trans- 
plantings.  Side-shoots  can  be  used  as  cions,  and  if  started 
in  time  will  furnish  good  leaders  ;  sometimes  a  leader  is 
developed  more  rapidly  by  bending  the  plant  over  at  nearly 
a  right-angle,  when  a  stout  bud  may  start  from  the  stem 
See  Abies. 

Pickerel  Weed.     See  Pontederia. 

Picotee.     See  Dianthus  and  Carnation. 

Pilea  (Artillery  Plant,    Stingless  Nettle).      Urticacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  divisions  or  cuttings. 
Pilocereus.     See  Cactus. 
Pimelea,  Banksia.      Thymelacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  growing  shoots  in  moderate  heat. 
Pimpernel.     See  Anagallis. 
Pinanga.     Palmce. 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
N.  B. — 17 


250  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Pinckneya,  Pinknea.     Rubiacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  the  ripened  shoots  under  glass. 

Pine-apple  {Ananas  sativa}.     Bromeliacea.  -» 

Pine-apples  very  rarely  produce  seeds,  but  when  they  are 
produced  they  are  sown  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  new  va- 
rieties. The  pine-apple  is  usually  increased  by  suckers  and 
"crowns."  If  the  root  is  left  in  the  ground  after  the  pine  is 
removed,  suckers  will  start  from  it.  The  root  is  then  taken 
up  and  cut  into  as  many  pieces  as  there  are  suckers,  each 
piece  being  then  permanently  planted.  The  crown  of  the 
fruit  and  the  various  offsets  or  "crownlets, "  which  appear 
on  the  sides  and  base  of  the  fruit,  may  be  removed  and  used 
as  cuttings.  These  offsets  are  commonly  used  in  greenhouse 
propagation.  It  is  the  usual  practice  to  allow  them  to  dry 
several  days  before  they  are  planted,  and  in  pine-apple  re- 
gions they  are  often  exposed  to  the  sun  for  several  weeks. 
This  operation  is  unnecessary,  however,  although  it  is  not 
objectionable..  A  good  way  to  start  the  offsets  is  to  pull  off 
the  lowest  leaves  and  insert  the  offsets  in  damp  moss  in  shade 
— giving  bottom  heat  for  greenhouse  work — and  as  soon  as 
roots  begin  to  form,  which  will  occur  in  from  two  to  six 
weeks,  plant  them  out  permanently.  In  the  tropics  fruit  can 
be  obtained  in  20  months  after  the  offsets  are  transplanted  ; 
but  fruit  bearing  is  often  delayed  three  or  four  years  under 
poor  treatment. 

Piney.     See  Paeonia. 

Pinguicula  (Butterwort).     Lentibulariece ; 

The  hardy  and  greenhouse  species  are  increased  by  seeds 
divisions,  or  by  leaf  cuttings. 

Pink  (Dianthus,  various  species).      Caryophyllece. 

Seeds  and  divisions.  Best  results  are  obtained  by  raising 
new  plants  from  seed  every  two  or  three  years.  Seeds  are 
usually  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  remain  ;  or  they  may 
be  sown  in  a  cold-frame  and  transplanted. 

Pinus  (Pine).      Conifer ce. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  kept  dry  over  winter,  are  com- 
monly employed.  These  are  often  started  in  pots,,  but  for 
most  species  they  are  sown  in  well  prepared  beds  out-doors. 
The  seedlings  must  usually  be  shaded  the  first  season.  Va- 
rieties, as  also  species  which  do  not  produce  seed  freely,  may 
be  grafted  upon  stocks  of  white  or  Austrian  pine  or  other 
species.  This  grafting  may  be  done  upon  the  tips  of  grow- 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  251 

ing  shoots  early  in  the  season  (page  90),  but  it  is  oftener  per- 
formed upon  potted  plants  by  the  veneer  method. 

Piper,  Cubeba  (Pepper,  Cubeb).     Piperacea: 

Seeds.  All  are  increased  by  means  of  cuttings  of  the  grow- 
ing shoots,  inserted  in  sandy  soil  under  glass. 

Piscidia  (Fish  Poison-tree,  Jamaica  Dogwood).     Leguminoscc. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  growing  shoots  under  glass. 
Pistacia.     Anacardiacece. 

Seeds,  cuttings  and  layers.  The  pistacio-nut  or  "green 
almond"  (P.  vera]  is  usually  grown  from  seeds,  which  are 
planted  where  the  trees  are  to  stand.  It  is  sometimes  graft- 
ed upon  P.  terebinthus,  to  give  it  greater  vigor. 

Pitcairnia.     See  Billbergia. 

Pitcher-plant.     See  Nepenthes  and  Sarracenia. 

Pittosporum.     Pittosporece. 

Seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  the  growing  or  ripe  wood,  under 
glass. 

Planera  (Planer-tree).      Urticacece. 

Propagated  by  seed's,  which  should  be  handled  like  elm 
seeds. 

Plane-tree.     See  Platanus. 
PlantagO  (Plantain).     Plantaginece. 

Seeds.     The  perennial  species  also  by  division. 
Plantain  (fruit).     See  Banana. 

Platanus    (Plane-tree,    Buttonwood ;    Sycamore,  improperly). 
Platanacece. 

Usually  propagated  by  seeds,  but  layers  and  ripe-wood 
cuttings  may  be  employed. 

Platycerium  (Stag's-Horn  Fern).     Filices. 
Chiefly  by  division.     See  Ferns. 

Platycodon,  Wahlenbergia.      Campanulacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and,  when  old  plants  are  obtainable, 
by  division. 

Plectocomia.     Palmce. 

Seeds.     May  be  increased  by  suckers. 


252  THE  NURSERY-BOOK.       „ 

Pleroma,  Lasiandra,  including  Melastoma.     Melastomacece. 

Seeds.  Propagated  mostly  by  cuttings  of  growing  shoots 
in  a  close  frame  at  any  season. 

Plum  (Prunus,  many  species).     Rosacece. 

There  are  so  many  species  of  plums  in  cultivation,  and 
the  varieties  of  the  same  species  are  often  so  different  in 
constitution  and  habit,  that  it  is  difficult  to  give  advice  con- 
cerning their  propagation.  All  the  species  grow  readily  from 
fresh,  well-ripened  seeds.  The  pits  should  be  removed  from 
the  pulp  and  then  stratified  until  spring.  If  they  are  allowed 
to  freeze,  the  germination  will  be  more  uniform,  as  the  pits 
will  be  more  easily  opened  by  the  swelling  embryo.  Plum 
pits  are  rarely  cracked  by  hand.  The  strong-growing  species 
and  varieties,  especially  southwards,  will  give  stocks  strong 
enough  to  bud  the  first  season ;  but  the  weaker  ones  must 
stand  until  the  next  season  after  the  seeds  are  planted.  In 
all  the  northern  states,  however,  plum  pits  are  usually  sown 
in  seed-beds,  in  the  same  manner  as  apple  and  pear  seeds. 
The  seedlings  are  taken  up  in  the  fall,  and  the  following 
spring  set  out  in  nursery  rows,  where  they  are  budded  in 
August. 

Plums  are  extensively  grown  from  suckers,  which  spring 
in  great  numbers  from  tne  roots  of  many  species.  In  France 
this  method  of  propagation  is  largely  used.  So  long  as 
graftage  does  not  intervene,  the  sprouts  will  reproduce  the 
variety  ;  and  even  in  grafted  or  budded  trees  this  sometimes 
occurs,  but  it  is  probably  because  the  tree  has  become  own- 
rooted  from  the  rooting  of  the  cion.  It  is  a  common  notion 
that  trees  grown  from  suckers  sprout  or  sucker  worse  than 
those  grown  from  seeds.  Layers  are  also  extensively  em- 
ployed for  the  propagation  of  the  plum.  Strong  stools  (page 
35)  are  grown,  and  the  long  and  strong  shoots  are  covered  in 
spring  throughout  their  length — the  tips  only  being  exposed 
— and  every  bud  will  produce  a  plant,  Strong  shoots  of  vig- 
orous sorts  will  give  plants  strong  enough  the  first  fall  to  be 
removed  into  nnrsery  rows.  Mound-layering  is  also  em- 
ployed with  good  results.  Root-cuttings,  handled  like  those 
of  blackberry,  grow  readily,  but  some  growers  suppose  that 
they  produce  trees  which  sucker  badly.  Many  plums  grow 
readily  from  cuttings  of  the  mature  recent  wood,  treated  the 
same  as  long  grape  cuttings.  This  is  especially  true  of  the 
Marianna  and  its  kin  (P.  umbellata],  which  are  grown  almost 
entirely  from  cuttings.  Some  sorts  of  the  common  garden 
plum  (P.  domesticii]  also  grow  from  cuttings. 

Plums  are  worked  in  various  ways,  but  ordinary  shield- 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


253 


budding  is  usually  employed  in  late  summer  or  early  fall,  as 
for  peaches  and  cherries.  Root-grafting  by  the  common 
whip  method  is  sometimes  employed,  especially  when  own- 
rooted  trees  are  desired  (page  78).  In  the  north  and  east, 
the  common  plum  (P.  domestica)  is  commonly  worked  upon 
stocks  of  the  same  species.  These  stocks,  if  seedlings,  are 
apt  to  be  very  variable  in  size  and  habit,  and  sometimes  half 
or  more  of  any  batch,  even  from  selected  seeds,  are  practi- 
cally worthless.  Stocks  from  inferior  or  constant  varieties 
are  therefore  essential.  Such  stocks  are  largely  imported  ; 
but  there  are  some  varieties  which  can  be  relied  upon  in  this 
country.  One  of  the  best  of  these  domestic  stocks  is  the 
Horse  plum,  a  small  and  purple-fruited  variety  of  Primus 
domeslica,  which  gives  very  uniform  seedlings.  This  is  large- 
ly used  in  New  York.  The  French  stocks  which  are  in  most 
common  use  are  St.  Julien  and  Black  Damas.  The  Myro- 
bolan  (P.  cerasifera]  is  much  used  in  California  for  standards, 
but  in  the  east  it  makes  dwa'rf '  trees.  The  peach  is  often 
used  as  a  plum  stock,  and  it  is  valuable  in  the  south,  especi- 
ally for  light  soils.  In  the  north  plum  stocks  are  better. 
Almond  stocks,  especially  for  the  French  prune  and  for  light 
soils,  are  considerably  used  in  California.  The  apricot  is 
sometimes  employed,  but  results  appear  to  be  poor  or  indif- 
ferent, on  the  whole.  Prunes  thrive  upon  the  above  stocks 
also. 

Various  stocks  dwarf  the  plum.  The  chief  dwarf  stock  at 
present  is  the  Myrobolan.  This  is  usually  imported.  It  is 
easily  grown,  either  from  seeds  or  cuttings.  The  Mirabelle, 
a  foreign  stock,  is  sometimes  used.  The  many  species  of 
native  plums,  of  the  Prunus  Americana  and  P.  angustijolia 
(Chickasaw)  types,  are  good  stocks  for  dwarf  or  intermediate 
trees.  In  most  cases,  the  bud  or  graft  grows  luxuriantly  for 
two  or  three  years,  and  thereafter  grows  rather  slowly.  It 
is  best  to  bud  or  graft  low  upon  these  stocks.  The  Mari- 
anna  is  at  present  the  most  popular  native  stock. 

The  native  or  American  plums  are  budded  upon  native 
seedlings,  or  rarely  upon  Prunus  domestica  seedlings  ;  or  they 
are  grown  from  cuttings,  as  in  the  case  of  Marianna. 

The  Japanese  plums  are  worked  upon  peach,  common 
plum  or  upon  natives,  preferably  Marianna. 

Primus  Simoni  works  upon  peach,  common  plum,  Myro- 
bolan and  Marianna. 

The  ornamental  plums  are  worked  upon  the  same  stocks 
as  the  fruit-bearing  sorts.  See  Prunus. 

Plum,  Coco.     See  Chrysobalanus. 


254 


THE  NbRSERY-BOOK. 


Plumbago  (Lead wort).     Plttmbaginece. 

Seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings.  Cuttings  are  made  from 
firm  nearly  mature  wood,  and  should  be  given  mild  bottom 
heat. 

Plumeria,  Himatanthus.     Apocynacece. 

Seeds.  Make  cuttings  of  ripe  shoots,  and  place  under  glass. 
Podalyria.     Leguminosce. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds.  Divisions  do  not  succeed  well. 
In  spring,  cuttings  may  be  made  of  strong  side  shoots,  and 
planted  in  sand  under -glass. 

Podocarpus.     Conifer ce. 

Usually  grown  from  cuttings  of  firm  wood  under  cover. 

Podophyllum   (May   Apple,    Mandrake ;    erroneously   Duck's 
Foot).     Berberidece. 

Seeds  and  division. 
Poinciana.     Leguminosce. 

Propagation  by  seeds. 

Poinsettia,  Euphorbia.     Euphorbiacece. 

Cuttings  of  growing  shoots,  of  two  or  three  buds  each, 
handled  upon  a  cutting  bench  or  in  a  frame.  Many  propa- 
gators prefer  to  let  the  cuttings  lie  exposed  two  or  three  days 
before  setting  them.  Cuttings  of  ripened  wood  can  be  used 
to  good  advantage  where  the  heat  is  rather  low.  See  Eu- 
phorbia. 

Polanisia.     Capparidece. 

Seeds,  in-doors  or  in  the  open. 
Polemonium.     Polemoniace<z. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 
Polianthes  (Tuberose).     Amaryllidece. 

Increased  by  bulbels.  Remove  these  from  the  parent  bulb 
in  the  fall,  and  keep  in  a  warm,  dry  place  until  the  following 
'  spring.  The  soil  should  be  light,  rich  and  moist  throughout 
the  summer.  Before  frost  comes  in  the  fall,  take  the  bulbs 
up,  and  when  dry,  cut  off  the  leaves.  The  bulbs  should  be 
kept  as  during  the  preceding  winter,  and  the  culture  during 
the  following  year  is  the  same  as  during  the  first.  The  bulbs 
usually  flower  the  second  or  third  summer. 

Polyanthus.     See  Primula. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  255 

Polycarpaea.      Caryophyllece. 

The  annuals  are  increased  by  seeds ;  perennials  by  cuttings. 
Polygala  (Milk wort).  Polygalece. 

Seeds;  sometimes  by  division,  and  by  cuttings  of  young 
shoots  under  cover,  particularly  for  tropical  species. 

Polygonatum  (Solomon's  Seal).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seed  and  by  divisions. 
Polygonum  (Knot- Grass  or  Weed).     Polygonace'ce. 

Seeds.  The  perennials  are  also  increased  by  divisions  of 
the  root-stocks,  and  by  cuttings. 

Polypodium  (Polypody).     Filices. 

Divisions  usually.      See  Ferns. 
Pomegranate  (Punita  granatum}.     Lythrcenece. 

Largely  by  seeds,  and  all  varieties  are  increased  by  cut- 
tings, suckers,  layers,  and  scarce  sorts  by  grafting  on  a  com- 
mon sort. 

Pomelo,  Shaddock  (Citrus  Aurantium,  var. pomelana].  Rutacece 
Usually  grown  from  seeds,  but  it  may  be  budded  upon  po- 
melo or  orange  stocks,  as  in  the  Orange,  which  see. 

Pontederia  (Pickerel  Weed).     Pontederiacece. 

Seeds  rarely.     Mostly  by  divisions. 
Poppy.     See  Papaver. 
Populus  (Poplar,  Aspen,  Cotton-wood).     Salicinece. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  and  raked  in  in  light  soil.     Suck- 
ers are  also  used.     Most  often  increased  by  cuttings  of  ripe 
wood,  taken  in  fall  and  spring.      The  weeping  forms  are 
.'   stock-grafted  upon  upright  sorts,  as  P.  grandidentata. 

Portugal  Laurel.     See  Prunus. 

Portulaca  (Purslane,   Rose  Moss).     Portulacece. 

The  annuals  are  raised  from  seed.  Varieties  are  some- 
times propagated  by  cuttings. 

Potato  (Solanum  tuber  osuni).      Solanacece. 

Tubers,  either  whole  or  variously  divided.  Also  rarely 
stem  cuttings.  (See  page  52.) 

Potentilla,  including  Horkelia,  Sibbaldia    (Cinquefoil,     Five- 

Finger).     Rosaccw. 
Seeds,  layers,  divisions,  green  cuttings. 


256  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Poterium,  including  Sanguisorba  (Burnet).     Rosacece. 

The  herbaceous  kinds  are  increased  by  seeds.  The  shrubs 
are  raised  from  soft  cuttings,  under  glass. 

Premna,  Baldingera.      Verbenacece. 

Seeds  and  soft  cuttings. 
Prickly  Ash.     See  Zanthoxylum. 
Prickly  Pear.     See  Opuntia. 
Pride  of  India.     See  Melia. 
Priestleya,  including  Achyronia.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  very  young  wood,  under  cover. 
Prim.     See  Ligustrum. 
Primula,  Polyanthus  (Primrose,  Cowslip).     Primulacea. 

Seeds,  sown  carefully  in  very  fine  soil,  under  glass.  Some 
rare  sorts  are  increased  by  division. 

Prinos.     See  Ilex. 
Pritchardia.     Palmes. 

Increased  by  seeds. 
Privet.  See  Ligustrum. 
Prostanthera  (Australian  Mint).  Labiatce. 

Seeds,  divisions,  and  cuttings  of  growing  shoots,  usually 
by  the  last  method. 

Protea,  Erodendron.     Proleacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  growing  wood,  under  cover. 

Prune.     See  Plum. 

Prunus,  Amygdalus.     Rosacece. 

The  dwarf  almonds  {Amygdah&)  are  increased  by  seeds, 
divisions,  cuttings,  and  by  budding  upon  seedling  plum  or 
peach  stocks  ;  also  by  root-cuttings.  Peach  stocks  give  larger 
trees  at  first  than  plum  stocks,  but  the  trees  are  not  so  long- 
lived.  Perhaps  ten  years  may  be  considered  the  average  life 
of  most  ornamental  almonds  upon  the  peach,  while  upon  the 
plum  they  may  persist  twenty-five  years  or  more.  The  or- 
namental cherries,  peaches,  etc.,  are  propagated  in  essentially 
the  same  manner  as  the  fruit-bearing  varieties.  See  Almond, 
Apricot,  Cherry,  Peach,  Plum.  P.  Lauro- Cerastes  and  P. 
Lusitanica,  the  cherry  laurel  and  Portugal  laurel,  may  be 
propagated  by  short  cuttings  of  ripened  wood,  in  a  cool 
greenhouse  in  autumn.  P.  Pissardii  is  said  to  be  easily  prop- 
agated by  cuttings  of  the  soft  wood.  This  method  succeeds 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  257 

well  with  many  of  the  double-flowering  plums  and  cherries, 
if  the  wood  is  grown  under  glass. 

Pseudotsuga.      Coniferce. 

Propagated  the  same  as  Abies,  which  see. 
Psidium.     See  Guava. 
Psoralea.     Legttminosce. 

Seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings  of  growing  shoots,  placed 
under  glass.  The  tubiferous  species,  as  the  pomme  blanche 
or  Indian  potato  (P.  esculenta)  are  increased  by  tubers  or 
divisions  of  them. 

Ptelea  (Hop-tree).     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  autumn  or  stratified,  or  by  lay- 
ers. The  varieties  may  be  grafted  on  the  common  forms. 

Pteris  (Brake,  Bracken).     Filices. 

Easily  grown  from  spores.      See  Ferns. 
Pterocarya.    Juglandea . 

Increased  by  seeds,  suckers  and  layers. 
Ptychosperma,  Seaforthia  (Australian  Feather-palm).    Palmce. 

Seeds. 

Pulmonaria.     See  Mertensia. 
Pumpkin  (Cucurbita,  three  species).      Cucurbit  a  cece. 

Seeds,  when  the  weather  is  settled. 
Punica.     See  Pomegranate. 
Puschkinia,  Adamsia.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  bulbs,  which  should   be  done 
every  two  or  three  years. 
Pyrethrum.     See  Chrysanthemum. 
Pyrola  (Shin-leaf,  Wintergreen).     Ericaceae. 

Propagated  by  division  ;  very  rarely  from  seeds. 
Pyrus.     Rosacecc. 

The  ornamental  species  and  varieties  of  apples  and  crabs 
are  budded  or  grafted  upon  common  apple  stocks.  The 
mountain  ashes  are  grown  from  stratified  seeds,  which  usu- 
ally lie  dormant  until  the  second  year,  or  the  varieties  are 
budded  or  grafted  upon  stocks  of  the  common  species  (P. 
Aucuparia').  Layers  and  green  cuttings  are  occasionally  em- 
ployed for  various  species  and  varieties  of  pyrus.  See  also 
Apple,  Pear,  Quince.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  obtain  stocks  as 


258  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

nearly  related  to  the  plant  which  is  to  be  propagated  as  pos- 
sible ;  e.  g. ,  Parkman's  pyrus  does  better  on  P.  floribunda 
than  on  the  common  apple  stock. 

Quamoclit.     See  Ipomoea. 

Quassia.     Simarubece. 

Cuttings  of  ripe  shoots  under  glass. 

Quercus  (Oak).     Cufuliferce. 

Stocks  are  grown  readily  from  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in 
the  fall  without  stratification.  The  evergreen  species  are 
sometimes  grown  from  cuttings.  Varieties  are  grafted  on 
stocks  grown  from  wild  acorns.  The  stocks  are  potted  in 

.  the  fall  and  the  grafting  is  performed  in  January  and  Febru- 
ary, or  sometimes  in  August. 

Quince  (Pyrus  Cydonia,  P.  Japonica,  P.  Cathayensis],  Rosacece. 
All  quinces  can  be  grown  from  seeds,  the  same  as  apples 
and  pears  ;  but  seeds  are  not  common  in  the  market,  and 
are  therefore  little  used  in  this  country.  The  fruit-bearing 
quinces  are  propagated  most  cheaply  by  means  of  cuttings 
of  mature  wood.  The  cuttings  are  taken  in  the  fall,  and  are 
stored  in  sand,  moss  or  sawdust  until  spring,  when  they  are 
planted  out-doors.  Long  cuttings — 10  to  12  inches — are  usu- 
ally most  successful,  as  they  reach  into  uniformly  moist  earth. 
Cuttings  are  usually  made  of  the  recent  wood,  and  prefera- 
bly with  a  heel,  but  wood  two  or  three  years  old  will  usually 
grow.  With  some  varieties  and  upon  some  soils,  there  is 
considerable  uncertainty,  and  layerageis  therefore  often  em- 
ployed. Mound-layering  (see  page  35)  is  practiced  where 
extra  strong  plants  are  required.  Long  root-cuttings,  treated 
like  those  of  the  blackberry  and  raspberry,  will  also  grow. 
Many  nurserymen  bud  or  root-graft  the  better  varieties 
upon  stocks  of  Angers  or  other  strong  sorts.  These 
stocks  are  imported  or  grown  from  seeds  or  cuttings.  The 
Chinese  quince  succeeds  upon  the  common  quince.  In  order 
to  secure  extra  strong  plants  and  a  uniform  stand,  some 
growers  graft  quince  cuttings  upon  pieces  of  apple  or  pear 
roots.  In  such  cases  the  plants  should  be  taken  up  in  the 

;  fall,  when  the  quince  will  be  found  to  have  sent  out  roots  of 
its  own;  the  apple  root  should  be  removed,  and  the  quince 

:  replanted  the  following  spring  in  the  nursery  row,  otherwise 
suckers  frequently  spring  from  the  stock  and  interfere  with 
the  growth  of  the  quince.  The  union  is  sufficient  to  nurse 

'   the  cion  for  two  or  three  years. 

The  flowering  or  Japanese  quince  is  best  propagated  by 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  259 

short  root-cuttings,  which  are  usually  made  in  the  fall,  and 
scattered  in  drills  in  frames  or  in  a  well-prepared  border  in 
spring.  Cuttings  of  firm,  nearly  mature  wood,  handled  in 
frames,  will  grow,  but  they  are  not  often  used.  The  double 
varieties  are  root-grafted  upon  common  stocks  of  P.  Japonica 
in  winter.  The  plants  are  then  grown  on  in  pots.  Common 
quince  (P.  Cydonia]  stocks  are  occasionally  used,  but  they 
are  not  in  favor. 

Quisqualis.     Conibretacece. 

'.  Increased  by  heeled  cuttings  of  young  shoots  in  heat. 
Radish  (Raphanus  sativus}.      Cruciferce. 

Seeds,  usually  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  grow. 

Ragged  Robin.       See  Lychnis. 
Ramondia,  Myconia.      Gesneracece. 
Propagated  by  seeds  or  division. 

Rampion  (Campanula  Rapunculus}.      Campanulaceae. 

Seeds,  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 
Ranunculus  (Buttercup,  Crowfoot).     Ranunyulacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  divisions. 
Raphia.     Palmce. 

Seeds. 
Raphiolepis.    Rosacea. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  the  growing  shoots 
inserted  under  cover. 

Raspberry  (Rubus  neglectus,  strigosus  and  oceidentalis}.  Rosacece. 
New  varieties  are  obtained  from  seeds,  which  are  washed 
from  the  pulp  and  sown  immediately,  or  stratified.  The 
black-cap  varieties  are  grown  mostly  from  root-tips  (Fig.  18) 
as  described  on  page  32.  If  the  ground  is  loose  and  mel- 
low, the  tips  will  commonly  take  root  themselves,  but  upon 
hard  ground  the  tip  may  have  to  be  held  in  place  by  a  stone 
or  clod.  Some  strong-growing  varieties,  like  the  Gregg, 

.  especially  in  windy  localities,  may  have  to  be  held  down. 
The  red  varieties  increase  rapidly  by  means  of  suckers  which 
spring  up  from  the  roots.  Better  plants  are  obtained  by 
means  of  root-cuttings,  however,  as  described  under  Black- 
berry (see  also  Fig.  46).  Black-caps  may  be  increased  by 
root-cuttings.  These  cuttings  are  best  handled  in  warm  cold- 
frames  or  mild  hot-beds,  being  planted  very  early  in  spring. 


tfio  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

By  the  time  the  weather  is  settled,  they  will  be  large  enough 
to  plant  in  nursery  rows. 

Red-bud.     See  Cercis. 

Red  Cedar.     See  Juniperus. 

Reinwardtia,  Linura  in  part,  of  gardeners.     Linece.          ....  fej 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  strong  shoots  in  heat. 
Renanthera.     See  brides. 
Reseda  (Mignonette).     Resedacece. 

Seeds.     For   winter   flowering,  seeds   are    sown   in   July 
Also  grown  from  cuttings. 

Retinospora,  Chamaecyparis  (Japanese  Arbor-Vitse).  Conifer <x 
Grown  sometimes  from  seeds,  which  should  be  denuded  of 
pulp.  Layers  of  tender  branches  are  sometimes  employed. 
They  are  most  commonly  grown  from  cuttings.  These  are 
made  from  tips  of  growing  or  ripened  shoots,  and  are  two  or 
three  inches  long,  with  all  the  leaves  left  on.  They  are 
usually,  from  necessity,  variously  branched.  The  soft  cut- 
tings are  usually  taken  from  forced  plants  and  are  handled 
in  a  close  frame  or  under  a  bell  glass,  with  bottom  heat.  In 
commercial  establishments  the  cuttings  of  ripe  wood  are 
preferred.  The  following  is  the  practice  of  one  of  the  largest 
nurseries  in  the  country:  Cuttings  of  the  entire  season's 
growth,  cut  to  a  heel,  are  taken  in  October  and  November, 
and  are  placed  in  sand  in  boxes  in  gentle  heat,  as  in  a  propa- 
gating house.  By  February  the  roots  will  be  formed,  and 
the  boxes  are  then  placed  in  a  cool  house  where  the  temper- 
ature is  about  50°.  Early  in  spring  (about  April  ist)  the 
boxes  are  placed  out-doors  in  cold  frames,  where  they  remain 
until  May,  until  frost  is  over.  The  boxes  are  then  removed 
from  the  frames  and  are  set  on  boards  in  a  shady  place, 
where  they  are  left  until  fall.  In  the  fall — having  been 
nearly  a  year  in  the  boxes — the  plants  are  shaken  out  and  are 
heeled-in  in  a  cellar.  The  next  spring  they  are  planted  out 
in  beds,  and  during  the  following  summer  and  winter  they 
are  given  some  protection  from  sun  and  cold.  Yews  and 
arbor-vitaes  are  handled  in  the  same  way. 

Retinosporas  are  often  grafted  upon  retinospora  or  com- 
mon arbor-vitas  stocks.  This  operation  is  usually  performed 
upon  potted  plants  in  winter  by  the  veneer  method. 

Rhamnus,  including  Frangula  (Buckthorn).     Khamnece. 

The  hardy  kinds  may  be  increased  by  means  of  seeds  or 
by  layers.  The  stove  and  greenhouse  species  may  be  multi- 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  26l 

plied    by    cuttings    of    growing    parts.     Seeds    should    be 
stratified. 

Rhaphidophora.     Aroidece, 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  or  by  cuttings  inserted  in  peaty  soil 
with  bottom  heat. 

Rliaphiolepis  (Indian  Hawthorn).     Rosacece. 
Seeds.     Cuttings  of  firm  shoots  in  a  frame. 

Rheum  (Rhubarb,  Pie-plant,  Wine-Plant).     Polygonacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  divisions.  Each  division  should 
contain  at  least  one  bud  on  the  crown.  Seeds  may  be  sown 
where  the  plants  are  to  stand,  but  will  not  reproduce  the 
varieties. 

Rhipsalis,  including  Lepismium,  Pfeiffera.      Cactea. 

Cuttings,  after  having  been  dried  for  a  few  days,  should  be 
inserted  in  coarse  gravel  or  sand.  See  Cactus. 

Rhodanthe.     Composite?. 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
Rhodochiton.     Scrophularinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  and  cuttings  of  the  growing  wood 

Rhododendron,  Azalea  (Rose-Bay).     Ericaceae. 

Seeds  are  largely  employed,  but  they  are  small  and  light 
and  must  be  carefully  handled.  They  are  sown  in  spring  in 
pans  or  boxes  in  a  soil  of  sandy  peat,  care  being  taken  to  cover 
them  very  lightly  and  not  to  dislodge  them  when  applying 
water.  They  are  handled  in  cold-frames  or  in  a  cool  house, 
and  the  young  plants  must  be  shaded.  The  plants  are  com- 
monly allowed  to  remain  a  year  in  the  boxes.  Low  growing 
plants  are  often  layered.  Cuttings  of  growing  wood,  cut  to  a 
heel,  are  sometimes  employed,  being  made  in  summer  and  han- 
dled in  a  frame,  but  the  percentage  of  rooted  plants  will  often 
be  small.  Rhododendrons  are  extensively  grafted,  the  veneer 
method  being  most  used.  The  operation  is  performed  upon 
potted  plants  in  late  summer  or  early  fall,  or  sometimes  in  a 
cool  house  in  early  spring.  Most  of  the  leaves  are  allowed 
to  remain  upon  the  cion.  The  plants  are  then  placed  in 
densely  shaded  cool  frames,  and  are  nearly  covered  with 
sphagnum.  Various  stocks  are  employed,  but  for  severe 
climates  the  hardy  species  like  R.  Catawbtense  and  jR.  max- 
imum are  probably  best.  R.  Ponticum  is  extensively  used  in 
Europe,  but  it  is  not  hardy  enough  for  the  north. 


262  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Rhodotypos.     See  Kerria. 

Rhubarb.     See  Rheum. 

Rhus  (Sumach).     Anacardiacece. 

Seeds,  layers,  suckers,  root-cuttings,  and  cuttings  of  green 
of  ripe  wood.  Suckers  are  oftenest  used. 

Rhynchosia.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  division. 
Rhynchospermum.     See  Trachelospermum. 
Ribes  (Currant,  Gooseberry).      Saxifragece. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  else  strati- 
fied for  new  varieties.  Commonly  from  ripe  cuttings.  See 
Currant  and  Gooseberry. 

Richardia  (Calla)      Aroidece. 

Offsets,  which  should  be  removed  and  potted  off  when  the 
plants  are  at  rest. 

Ricinus  (Castor  Bean).     Euphorbiacece. 

Seeds,  which  in  the  north  are  started  in-doors. 
Rivina,  Piercea  (Hoop  Withy).     Phytolaccacece. 

Readily  propagated  by  seeds ;  also  by  cuttings,  inserted 
during  spring  in  heat. 

Robinia  (Locust,  Rose  Acacia).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  sown  in  fall  or  spring,  and  which  usually  germinate 
better  if  soaked  in  hot  water  previous  to  sowing.  Also 
grown  from  layers  and  root-cuttings.  Named  varieties  are 
grafted  or  budded,  the  common  locust  stock  {R.  Pseudacacia) 
being  preferred,  even  for  the  rose  acacia  {R.  fuspida). 

Rocambole  (A Ilium  Scorodoprasuni}.     Liliacece. 

"  Cloves,"  or  divisions  of  the  bulb. 
Rocket,  ornamental  sorts.     See  Hesperis. 
Rocket  Salad  (Eruca  sativa).      Crudferce. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  grow. 
Rock-Rose.     See  Cistus. 
Romneya.     Papaveraccce. 

-Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring. 
Romulea.     Iridece. 

Offsets. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  263 

Rondeletia,  Willdenovia,  Rogiera.     Rubiacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood,  inserted  in  sand 
under  glass,  in  heat. 

Rosa  (Rose).     Rosacece. 

New  varieties  and  sometimes  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds, 
which  are  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  kept  in  the  hips  until 
spring.  The  hardy  kinds  are  usually  sown  in  well  prepared 
beds  out-doors.  Roses  are  sometimes  grown  from  layers, 
and  often  from  root-cuttings,  after  the  manner  of  blackber- 
ries. The  common  way  of  propagating  roses,  however,  is 
by  means  of  short  cuttings  of  firm  or  nearly  mature  wood, 
handled  under  glass,  with  a  mild  bottom  heat  (of  65°  or  70°). 
They  are  commonly  made  in  February  or  March  from  forced 
plants.  The  cuttings  are  made  in  various  fashions,  some 
allowing  most  of  the  leaves  to  remain,  and  some  preferring 
to  cut  most  of  them  off,  as  in  Fig.  56.  They  are  commonly 
cut  to  one-bud  lengths.  Long  cuttings  of  ripened  wood, 
handled  in  a  cool  greenhouse  or  in  frames,  may  also  be  em- 
ployed for  the  various  perpetual  and  climbing  roses.  Most 
growers  feel  that  the  best  plants  are  obtained  from  cuttings, 
but  most  varieties  do  well  when  budded  upon  congenial  and 
strong  stocks.  Budding  by  the  common  shield  method  is 
considerably  employed,  and  veneer-grafting  is  sometimes 
used.  The  stocks  are  grown  either  from  seeds  or  cuttings. 
The  commonest  stock  is  the  manetti  (Rosa  canina],  which  is 
a  strong  and  hardy  species.  The  multiflora  rose  \R.  polyan- 
tha]  is  also  a  good  stock,  especially  for  early  results.  A  stock 
somewhat  used  about  Boston  for  some  of  the  hybrid  perpet- 
uals,  with  excellent  results,  is  Rosa  Watsonict,  a  Jaoanese 
species.  "Worked"  roses  are  in  greater  favor  in  Europe 
than  in  this  country. 

Rosemary  (Rosmarimis  ojficinalis}.      Labiatce. 

Seeds  and  divisions. 
Rubus  (Bramble).     Rosacece. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  or  sown  as  soon  as  ripe. 
Root-cuttings  and  suckers  are  mostly  employed.  The  seeds 
of  R.  deliciosus  require  two  years  for  germination.  See  Black- 
berry, Dewberry,  Raspberry. 

Rudbeckia,  including  Lepachys,   Obeliscaria  (Cone  Flower). 

Compositce.  , 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  divisions. 
Rue.     See  Ruta. 


264  THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 

Hutiiia,  including  Dipteracanthus.     Acanthacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings,  inserted  in  a  light  rich  soil,  under  glass. 
Rulingia.     Sterculiacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  under  glass. 
Ruscus  (Butcher's,  Alexandrian  Laurel).     Liliacece. 

Root  suckers.     Also  seeds,  when  obtainable. 
Rush.     See  Juncus. 
Russelia.     Scrophularinece. 

Seeds.     Green  cuttings  under  glass. 
Ruta.  Haplophyllum  (Herb  of  Grace,  Rue).     Rutacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings.  Meadow 
Rue,  see  Thalictrum. 

Sabal.     Palmce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  suckers,  which  should  be 
taken  when  about  one  foot  long.  If  they  have  no  roots  they 
must  be  carefully  handled. 

Sabbatia  (American  Centaury).      Gentianece. 

May  be  raised  from  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  thinly 
in  pans,  or  on  a  shady  border. 

Saffron  {Carthamus  tinctorius}.      Composite?. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  in  open  air  in  spring.  Saffron  is  also 
Crocus  sativus. 

Sage  (Salvia  officinahs}.     Labiatce. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  stand.  Also 
by  division,  but  seeds  give  better  plants.  Sage  plantations 
should  be  renewed  every  two  or  three  years.  Good  plants 
are  grown  from  cuttings. 

Sage  Palm.     See  Cycas. 

Saintfoin.     See  Onobrychis. 

Saint  John's  Bread.     See  Carob. 

Salisburia.     See  Ginkgo. 

Salix  (Willow,  Osier,  SaJlow).     Salidnece. 

All  the  willows  grow  readily  from  cuttings  of  ripe  wood 
of  almost  any  age.  The  low  and  weeping  varieties  are  top- 
worked  upon  any  common  upright  stocks. 

Sallow.     See  Salix. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  265 

Salpiglossis.      Scrophularinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  open  air,  or^ney  may  be  started 
under  glass. 

Salsify  (Tragopogon  pornfolius].      Composites. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  remain. 
Salvia,  including  Sclarea  (Sage).     Labiatce. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  sown  thinly  and  placed  in  a 
little  warmth.  Also  by  cuttings  ;  these  will  root  readily  in 
heat,  if  they  are  quite  soft  and  in  a  growing  state. 

Sambucus  (Elder).      Caprifoliacece. 

Seeds,  handled  like  those  of  raspberries  and  blackberries. 
Named  kinds  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  mature  wood,  and 
by  layers. 

Sandoricum  (Sandal-tree).     Meliacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings,  in  sand  under  glass,  in  heat. 
Sanguinaria  (B*lood-root,  Red  Puccoon).     Papaveracece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  means  of  seeds,  or  by  divisions. 
Sanguisorba.     See  Poterium. 
Sanseviera,  Salmia  (Bowstring  Hemp).     Hcemodoracece. 

Young  plants  are  obtained  from  suckers. 
Sapodilla  or  Sapodilla  Plum.     See  Sapota. 
Saponaria,  including  Vaccaria  (Bouncing  Bet,  Fuller's  Herb, 
Soap  wort).      Caryophyllece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  divisions.     The  hardy  annual 
and  biennial  kinds  may  be  simply  sown  in  the  open  border, 
Sapota,  Achras.      Sapotacece. 

Seeds  and  cuttings.  In  trodical  countries  the  sapodilla 
(S.  Achras]  is  raised  entirely  from  seeds. 

Sarracenia   (Indian  Cup,  Pitcher  Plant,  Side-saddle  Flower. 

Trumpet  Leaf).      Sarraceniacece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  crowns.  Sometimes  by  seeds, 
sown  in  moss  in  a  cool  frame. 

Sassafras.     Laurinece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  suckers  and  root-cuttings. 
Satyrium.     Orchidece. 

Division  of   the  plants,   as  new  growth  is  commencing. 
(See  also  under  Orchids.) 
N.  B.  — 18 


266  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Saurauja,  Palava,  Reinwardtia.      Ternstrcemiacece. 

Seeds.  Ripened  cuttings  should  be  inserted  in  sand,  under 
glass. 

Sauromatum.     Aroidece. 

Increased  by  offsets. 
Saussurea .     Composite. 

Seeds  ;  division. 

Savin.  See  Juniperus. 
Savoy.  See  Cabbage. 
Savory  (Satureia  hortensis,  S  montana}.  Labiatce. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  remain  ;  or  the  winter 
savory  (S.  montana},  which  is  a  perennial,  by  division. 

Saxifraga  (Saxifrage,  Rockfoil).     Saxifragece. 

Seeds,  divisions,  and  in  some  species  (as  S.  sarmentosa,  the 
"strawberry  geranium")  by  runners. 

Scabiosa  (Pin-cushion  Flower).     Dipsacece. 

Seeds,  usually  sown  in  the  open,  and  sometimes  by  division 
Scsevola.  Goodenoviece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  should  be  inserted  in  a  compost  of  peat 
and  sand,  under  glass. 

Scheeria.     See  Achimenes. 
Schelhammera,  Parduyna.     Liliacecs. 

Increased  usually  by  divisions. 
Schinus.     Anacardiacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
Schismatoglottis.     Aroidece. 

Increased  by  divisions. 
Schizandra,  including  Maximowiczia.     Magnoliacece. 

Seeds,  when  procurable.  Propagation  is  effected  by  lay- 
ers ;  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  should  be  inserted  in  sand 
under  glass. 

Schizanthus  (Butterfly  or  Fringe  Flower).     Solanacece. 

The  half-hardy  kinds  are  increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  lit- 
tle heat  in  spring.  The  seed  of  the  hardy  sorts  may  be 
sown  in  the  open  ground  in  early  spring. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  tfj 

Schizophragma.     Saxifragece. 

Propagated  easily  by  cuttings  of  the  ripened  wood  in  a 
cool  house  in  autumn. 

Schizostylis.     Iridece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 
Sciadophyllum,  Actinophyllum.     Araliacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings,  in  sand  under  glass,  in  moderate  heat. 
Sciadopitys  (Umbrella  Pine).     Coniferce. 

Slowly  propagated  by  imported  seeds.  But  cuttings  of 
the  half-ripened  shoots,  taken  off  in  summer  and  inserted  in 
sand,  in  heat,  root  readily. 

Scilla  (Squill,  Wild  Hyacinth).     Liliaceoe. 

Slowly  increased  by  seeds,  usually  by 
Scolopendrium.     See  Ferns. 
Scorzonera  (Black  Salsify).      Composite. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  st 
Scotch  Broom.     See  Cytisus. 
Screw  Pine.     See  Pandanus. 
Scutellaria  (Skull-cap,  Helmet  Flower).     Labiates. 

Seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings  of  growing  shoots  under 
cover. 

Seaforthia.     See  Ptychosperma. 

Sea-kale  (Crambe  maritima}.      Cruciferce. 

Seeds,  sown  without  being  shelled,  usually  in  a  seed-bed. 
When  the  young  plants  have  made  three  or  four  leaves,  they 
should  be  removed  to  permanent  quarters.  Seedlings  should 
furnish  crops  in  three  years.  By  root-cuttings,  four  or  five 
inches  long,  taken  from  well  established  plants.  These 
should  give  plants  strong  enough  for  cutting  in  two  years. 

Seaside  Grape.     See  Coccoloba. 
Sechium  (Choko).     Cucurbitacece. 

Seeds.     Tubers. 
Sedge.     See  Carex. 
Sedum,  including  Rhodiola  (Orpine,  Stonecrop).     Crassulacece. 

Propagation  may  be  effected  by  seeds,  by  divisions  of  the 
tufts,  by  cuttings  of  stems  or  leaves  in  spring. 


268  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Selaginella.     Lycopodiacea. 

Spores.     Short  cuttings,  inserted  in  very  early  spring,  in 
pots  or  pans. 

Sempervivum  (House  Leek).     Crassulacece. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds,  or  by  the  young  plants  which 
appear  around  the  old  ones  at  the  base. 

Senecio,   including   Cacalia,    Cineraria,   Farfugium,  Jacobea 

Kleina,  Ligularia  (Groundsel,  Ragweed).      Composites. 
The  annuals  are  propagated  by  seeds.     Others  may  be 
increased  by  seeds,  by  divisions,  or  by  cuttings  both  of  the 
roots  and  shoots. 

Sensitive  Plant.     See  Mimosa. 

Sequoia,  Wellingtonia  (Redwood).      Loniferce. 

Seeds,  which  must  be  handled  in  a  frame  or  half-shady 

place.     Layers,  and  cuttings  handled  like  those  of  retinos- 

pora  and  yew. 

Sericographis.     See  Justicia. 
Sesamum  (Bene).      Pedaliacece. 

Seeds,   sown    under  glass,   or   in   the  south  in  the  open 
border. 

Sesbania,  including  Agati  (Pea- tree).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  for  annual  species  ;  the  shrubby  kinds  by  cuttings 
of  the  half-ripened  shoots  under  glass,  in  heat. 

Shad-bush.     See  Amelanchier. 

Shaddock.     See  Pomelo. 

Shallot  (AHiutn  Ascalonicutri).     Liliaceoe. 

Grown  from  "cloves,"  which  are  formed  by  the  breaking 
up  of  the  main  bulb. 

Shell-bark  Hickory  (Shag-bak).     See  Hicoria. 
Shepherdia  (Buffalo  Berry).     Elceagnacece. 

Increased   by  seeds  sown  in  the  fall   or   stratified   unti 
spring. 

Sibbaldia.     See  Potentilla. 
Siberian  Pea-tree.     See  Caragana. 
Sideritis.     Labiatce. 

Seeds,  divisions,  cuttings. 
Side-saddle  Flower.     See  Sarracenia. 


THE  NURSER  Y  UST.  269 

Silene  (Campion,  Catch  fly).     Caryophyllete. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  by  divisions,  and  by 
cuttings. 

Silk-Cotton  Tree.     See  Bombax. 
Silphium  (Rosin-plant,  Compass-plant).     Composites. 
Propagated  by  seed  and  by  divisions. 

Silver  Bell.     See  Halesia. 

Sisyrinchium  (Blue-eyed  Grass,  Pig  Root,  Rush  Lily,  Satin 

Flower).     Iridece. 

It  may  be  increased  in  spring  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 
Skimmia.     Rittacece. 

Seeds,  in  a  frame.  Also  by  layers  and  by  firm  cuttings  in 
gentle  heat. 

Skirret  (Sium  Sis  a  rum}.      Umbelliferce. 
Seeds,  offsets,  or  divisions. 

Slipperwort.     See  Campanula  and  Calceolaria. 
Smilacina  (False  Soloman's  Seal).     Liliacece. 

Seeds.     Division  of  roots. 
Smilax  (Green-Briar,  American  China  Root).     Liliacece. 

Young  plants  are  obtained  by  seeds  and  by  layers  and 
divisions  of  the  root.  For  the  "Smilax"  or  Boston-vine  of 
conservatories,  see  Myrsiphyllum. 

Snapdragon.     See  Antirrhinum. 

Snowball-tree.     See  Viburnum. 

Snowberry-tree.     See  Symphoricarpus. 

Snowdrop.     See  Galanthus. 

Snowflake.     See  Leucoium. 

Soapwort.     See  Saponaria. 

Solandra.     Solanacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  ;  by  cuttings,  inserted  in 
mould  or  tan.  If  small  flowering  plants  are  desired,  the  cut- 
tings should  be  taken  from  flowering  shoots. 

Solanum,  including  Aquartia,  Nycterium  (Nightshade).    Solan- 

acece. 

The  annuals,  and  most  of  the  other  species,  are  raised 
from  seeds.  The  tuberous  kinds  may  be  increased  by  tubers 


feyo  THE   NURSERY- BOOK. 

or  divisions  of  them.  The  stove  and  greenhouse  shrubby 
plants  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  inserted  when  young 
in  a  warm  frame. 

Soldanella.     Primulacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  division. 
Solea.     See  lonidium. 
Solidago  (Golden  Rod).     Composite. 

Seeds,  sown  in  fall  or  spring^ and  by  divisions. 
Solomon's  Seal.     See  Polygonatum. 
Sonerila.     Melastoinacta. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  or  by  cuttings  which  should  be 
inserted  singly  in  small  pots  during  spring  and  placed  in  a 
frame  in  a  propagating  house. 

Sophora,  including  Edwardsia.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  layers  and  cuttings  of  either  ripened  or  growing 
wood.  The  named  varieties  are  grafted  upon  common  stocks. 

Sorghum.      Graminece. 

Usually  by  seeds.  Sometimes  by  cuttings  as  in  Sugar 
Cane. 

Sorrel  (Rumex,  several  species).     Polygonacece. 

Seeds  and  divisions. 
Sorrel-tree.     See  Oxydendron. 
Sour  Gum.     See  Nyssa. 
Sowbread.     See  Cyclamen. 
Spanish  Bayonet.     See  Yucca. 
Sparaxis.    Iridece. 

Seeds.     Usually  by  offsets. 
Sparmannia.     Tiliacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  in  spring. 
Spathiphyllum,  including  Amomophyllum.     Aroidea. 

Propagated  sometimes  by  seeds  sown  in  heat,  or  by  divis- 
ions of  the  root-stocks. 

Spearmint  {Mentha  viridis}.     Labiatce. 

Commonly  grown  from  cuttings  of  the  creeping  root-stocks 
Speedwell.     See  Veronica. 


THE   NURSERY  LIST.  27I 

Sphaeralcea,  Sphaeroma  (Globe  Mallow).     Malvaceae. 

Seeds ;  by  cuttings  of  the  young  growth  under  glass,  and 
kept  shaded  until  rooted. 

Spiderwort.     See  Tradescantia. 

Spinage  (Spinacia  oleracea}.      Chenopodiacece. 

Seeds,  sown  usually  where  the  crop  is  to  stand,  either  in 
fall  or  spring. 

Spiraea  (Spirea,  Meadow-Sweet).     Rosacece. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  stratified  until  spring. 
Commonly  increased  by  cuttings,  either  of  mature  or  green 
wood.  Green  cuttings  usually  make  the  best  plants.  These 
are  made  in  summer  and  handled  in  frames.  Some  sorts,  as 
S.  aricefolia,  S.  opulifolia  and  varieties  (Nine-bark,  now 
known  as  Neillia  or  Physocarpus  opulifolia}  and  S.  prunifolia, 
are  usually  grown  from  layers  put  down  in  spring.  The  her- 
baceous kinds  are  often  increased  by  division. 

Spondias  (Hog  Plum,  Otaheite  Apple  or  Plum).    Anacardiacece. 
Seeds ;  by  large  cuttings  of  growing  wood,  which  should 
be  inserted  in  sand  or  mould,  in  heat. 

Spruce.     See  Picea  and  Abies. 

Squash  (Cucurbita,  three  species).     Cucurbitaccce . 

Seeds,  when  the  weather  becomes  warm. 
Squill.     See  Scilla. 

Stachys,   Betonica,    Galeopsis    (Hedge    Nettle,   Woundwort) 
Labiatce. 

Seeds,  divisions,  or  cuttings.  Some  species  (as  the  Crosnes 
or  S.  tuberifera  of  recent  introduction)  are  increased  by 
subterranean  tubers. 

Staff-tree.     See  Celastrus. 
Stanhopea.     Orchidece. 

Division  of  the  old  roots.      (See  also  under  Orchids.) 
Stapelia  (Carrion  Flower).     Asclepiadece. 

Seeds ;  commonly  by  cuttings  in  heat. 
Staphylea  (Bladder-nut).     Sapindacece. 

Seeds  sown  as  sown  as  ripe  or  stratified  until  spring.  By 
suckers,  layers,  and  cuttings  of  roots  or  of  mature  wood. 

Star  Apple.     See  Chrysophyllum. 


272  THE  NURSER  Y-BO  OK. 

Star  of  Bethlehem.     See  Ornithogalum. 

Statice  (Sea  Lavender,  See  Pink).     Plumbaginece. 

The  annuals  and  biennials  may  be  increased  by  seeds 
sown  in  early  spring,  in  a  frame.  The  perennials  by  seeds, 
or  by  carefully  made  divisions.  Greenhouse  species  should 
be  propagated  by  cuttings  inserted  in  small  single  pots  dur- 
ing early  spring,  and  placed  under  glass. 

Staurostigma.     Aroidece, 

Seeds  sown  in  bottom  heat ;  or  by  division  of  the  tubers. 
Stephanotis,  Jasminanthes.     Asclepiadece . 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings  of  the  previous 
year's  growth  inserted  singly  in  pots,  in  spring,  and  placed  in 
a  close  frame  with  a  temperature  of  60°. 

Sterculia.     Sterculiacecc. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  should  be 
taken  with  the  leaves  on,  and  placed  under  glass.  Those  of 
the  stove  species  should  be  placed  in  moist  heat. 

Stevia.     Compositce. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  by  divisions  and  by  cuttings. 
Stigmaphyllon.     Malpighiacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  ripened  wood,  inserted  in  sandy  soil 
under  glass,  in  heat. 

Stillingia.     Euphorbiacece. 

Easily  propagated  by  imported  seeds. 
Stock.     See  Mathiola. 
Stokesia.     Compositce, 

Propagation  by  seeds  and  by  division. 

Stonecrop.     See  Sedum. 

Strawberry  (Fragaria).     Rosace  ce. 

New  sorts  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  are  usually  sown  as 
soon  as  ripe  ;  or  they  may  be  kept  until  the  following  spring 
either  dry  or  in  stratification.  Varieties  are  commonly  in- 
creased by  offsets,  or  plants  formed  at  the  joints  of  runners. 
These  runners  appear  after  the  fruit  is  off.  If  strong  plants 
are  desired,  the  runner  should  be  headed-in,  and  only  one 
plant  allowed  to  form  on  each  runner.  The  ground  should 
be  soft  and  somewhat  moist,  to  enable  the  young  plants  to 
obtain  a  foothold.  Plants  strong  enough  for  setting  are  ob- 
tained in  August  and  September  of  the  same  year  in  which 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


2?3 


they  start.  Ordinarily,  the  runners  will  take  root  without 
artificial  aid  ;  but  in  hard  soils,  or  with  new  or  scarce  varie- 
ties, the  joints  are  sometimes  held  down  with  a  pebble  or  bit 
of  earth.  New  varieties  are  often  propagated  throughout  the 
season  from  plants  which  are  highly  fertilized,  and  which  are 
not  allowed  to  fruit.  Very  strong  plants  are  obtained  by 
growing  them  in  pots.  A  3-inch  pot  is  sunk  below  the  run- 
ner, and  the  joint  is  held  upon  it  by  a  stone  or  clod.  The 
runner  is  then  pinched  off,  to  prevent  further  growth,  and  to 
throw  all  its  energy  into  the  one  plant.  The  pot  should  be 
filled  with  soft,  rich  earth.  Shouldered  pots  are  best,  be- 
cause they  can  be  raised  more  easily  than  others,  by  catch- 
ing the  spade  or  trowel  under  the  shoulder.  The  plants  will 
fill  the  pots  in  three  or  four  weeks,  if  the  weather  is  favor- 
able. Old  tin  fruit  cans,  which  have  been  heated  to  remove 
the  bottoms,  can  also  be  used. 

Cuttings  of  the  tips  of  runners  are  sometimes  made  and 
handled  in  a  frame,  as  an  additional  means  of  rapidly  in- 
creasing new  kinds.  These  cuttings  are  really  the  cast-away 
tips  left  from  the  heading-in  or  checking  of  the  runners. 

Strawberry  Geranium.     See  Saxifraga. 
Strawberry  Tree.     See  Arbutus. 

Strelitzia    (Bird  of  Paradise  Flower,  Bird's-tongue  Flower). 

Scitaminece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  light  soil,  and 
the  pots  plunged  in  moist  bottom  heat.  Also  increased  by 
suckers  and  by  division  of  the  old  plants. 

Streptocarpus  (Cape  Primrose).      Gesneracece. 
Readily  propagated  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 

Strobilanthes,  including  Goldfussia  (Cone  Head).    Acanthacece 

Seeds.     Cuttings,  in  any  light  soil  under  glass,  in  heat. 
Struthiola.      Thymelaacece. 

Seeds,  when  obtainable.     Cuttings  in  sand  under  a  frame. 
Stuartia.      Ternstrcemiacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds  and  layers,  or  by  means  of  rip- 
ened cuttings,  inserted  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass.  Seeds 
are  oftenest  used,  where  obtainable. 

Stylidium,  Candollea.     Stylidiea. 

Grown  from  seeds,  or  in  a  few  cases,  from  divisions  of  the 
roots.  The  shrubby  kinds  may  be  increased  by  cuttings. 


274  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Stypandra.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  divisions. 
Styrax  (Storax).      Styracea. 

Seeds,  which  must  be  stratified,  or  else  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe.  They  usually  lie  dormant  the  first  year.  Also  by  lay- 
ers and  cuttings  of  green  wood.  Can  be  grafted  upon  other 
storaxes,  or  upon  Halesia  tetraptera. 

Sugar  Cane  (Saccharum  officinaruni).     Graminece. 

Cuttings  of  the  stems.  The  cuttings  should  possess  a  nope 
or  joint  which  bears  one  or  more  good  buds.  These  cuttings 
are  planted  directly  in  the  field,  and  the  plants  will  reach 
maturity  in  two  or  three  months.  Propagation  by  seeds  has 
been  supposed  to  be  impossible,  but  recent  experiments  at 
Kew  indicate  that  it  can  be  done. 

Sumach.     See  Rhus. 

Sundew.     See  Drosera. 

Sunflower.     See  Helianthus. 

Sun  Rose.     See  Helianthemum. 

Swainsona.    Leguminosce. 

Seeds.     Green  cuttings  under  cover 

Swan  River  Daisy.     See  Brachycome. 

Sweet  Brier.     See  Rosa. 

Sweet  Cicely.     See  Myrrhis. 

Sweet  Pea.     See  Lathyrus. 

Sweet  Potato  (Convolvulus  Batatas).      Convolvulacece. 

Sweet  potato  plants  are  grown  in  hot-beds,  cold-frames  or 
forcing-houses,  from  sound  tubers  of  medium  size.  The  tu- 
ber is  laid  upon  a  sandy  or  other  loose  bed,  and  is  then  cov- 
ered with  sand  or  sandy  loam  to  a  depth  of  one  or  two  inches. 
Sometimes,  to  guard  against  rot,  the  tubers  are  not  covered 
until  the  sprouts  begin  to  appear.  The  tubers  may  be  laid 
thickly  upon  the  bed,  but  they  are  less  apt  to  rot  if  they  do 
not  touch  each  other.  Sometimes  the  tubers  are  cut  in  two 
lengthwise,  the  cut  surface  being  placed  down,  in  order  to 
place  all  the  plant-giving  surface  uppermost.  In  four  or 
five  weeks  the  young  plants — three  to  five  inches  high — are 
pulled  off  and  planted,  and  others  soon  arise  to  take  their 
places.  One  hand  should  be  held  firmly  upon  the  soil  over 
the  tuber,  while  the  sprout  is  pulled  off  to  keep  it  in  place. 
Three  or  four  crops  of  sprouts  may  be  obtained  from  each 
tuber. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  275 

Sweet  William  {Dianthus  barbatus}.      Caryophyllece. 

Seeds,  sown  in-doors  or  in  the  border.  Division  of  the 
plants.  Best  results  are  obtained  by  starting  new  seedlings 
every  other  year. 

Swertia.      Gertianeoe. 

Seeds,  usually  started  in  heat. 

Sycamore.     See  Platanus. 

Symphoricarpus  (Waxberry,  St.  Peter's  Wort,  Snowberry-tree 

Indian  Currant).      Caprifoliacece. 

Seeds,  handled  like  those  of  blackberries.  Also  by  suck- 
ers and  cuttings. 

Symphytum  (Comfrey).     Boraginece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds  and  by  division.  Also  by  root- 
cuttings. 

Symplocos,  including  Hopea.      Styracece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings,  in  sand  under  glass. 
Syngonium.     Aroidece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  stems  into  lengths  of  about  three 
joints,  and  inserting  them  in  pots  in  a  brisk  heat.  The  tops 
of  plants  may  be  cut  off  and  inserted  as  large  cuttings. 

Syringa  (Lilac).      Oleacece. 

New  varieties  and  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  are 
usually  stratified  until  spring.  Green  cuttings,  handled  in 
frames  in  summer,  are  largely  used.  Cuttings  of  mature 
wood  will  grow ;  also  cuttings  of  the  roots.  Layers  and 
suckers  are  often  employed.  Varieties  are  extensively  grafted 
upon  privet  (Ligustrum),  and  common  lilacs.  Flute-budding 
is  occasionally  employed.  Lilacs  will  grow  for  a  time  when 
worked  upon  the  ash.  Grafting  succeeds  well  when  per- 
formed in  the  open  air. 

Tabeniaemontana.     Apocynacece. 

Increased  by  green  cuttings,  under  glass,  in  moist  beat 
Tacca,  Ataccia.      Taccacece. 

Seeds  and  division  of  the  roots. 
Tacsonia.     See  Passiflora. 
Tagetes  (Marigold).      Composite. 

Seeds,  sown  either  in-doors  or  out. 
Tamarack.     See  Larch. 


276  THE  NURSERY-BOOJf. 

i 

Tamarindus  (Tamarind).     Leguminosa. 

Young  plants  may  be  obtained  from  seeds  sown  on  a  hot- 
bed or  out-doors  in  tropical  countries.  Cuttings,  in  sand 
under  glass  in  heat. 

Tamarix,  Tamarisk.      Tamarisdnece. 

Increased  by  ripe  cuttings  under  glass,  the  greenhouse 
kinds  in  heat. 

Tansy  (  Tanacetum  vulgare).      Compositce. 

Seeds  and  divisions. 

Taxodium,  Glyptostrobus  (Bald  Cypress).  Conifer ce. 

Seeds  are  usually  employed.  Layers.  Cuttings  of  young 
wood  in  wet  sand,  or  even  water,  under  cover.  The  varieties 

of  glyptostrobus  may  be  veneer-grafted  in  August  or  Sep- 
tember on  T.  distichum. 

Taxus  (Yew).      Conifer  ce. 

Seeds,  sown  when  gathered  or  else  stratified.  Layers. 
Cuttings  of  green  wood  under  glass  in  summer,  or  of  mature 
wood  as  recommended  for  retinospora.  The  named  varieties 
are  veneer-grafted  in  August  or  early  fall  upon  the  upright 
kinds. 

Tecoma   (Trumpet-Creeper).     Bignoniacece. 

Seeds,  layers,  cuttings  of  firm  shoots,  but  most  commonly 
by  root-cuttings. 

Terminalia  (Tropical  Almond).     Combretacece. 

Seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings  of  green  wood  under  glass. 
Ternstrcemia.      Ternstrcemiacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  shoots  under  glass,  in 
bottom  heat. 

Testudinaria  (Elephant's  Foot).     Dioscoreacece. 

Grown  from  imported  roots  or  seeds. 
Teucrium  (Germander).     Labiatce. 

Seeds,  divisions,  and  the  shrubby  kinds  by  cuttings  under 
cover. 

Thalictrum  (Meadow  Rue).      Ranunculacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  divisions.  The  varieties  by 
cuttings. 

Thea.     See  Camellia. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


277 


Theobroma  (Cacao,  Chocolate-tree).      Sterculiacece. 

Propagated  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  should  be  placed  in 
sand,  under  glass,  in  "neat. 

Thermopsis.     Leguminosce. 
By  seeds  and  divisions. 
Thrift.     See  Armeria. 
Thrinax.     Palmce. 

Seeds. 
Thunbergia.     Acanthacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  firm  wood  in  a  frame. 
Thunia.      Orchidece. 

As  the  form  of  the  pseudo-bulbs  suggests,  this  genus  is 
easily  propagated  by  cuttings.  These  are  made  about  six 
inches  long  and  inserted  in  pots  of  sand.  After  standing  in 
an  ordinary  propagating  frame  or  moist  stove  for  a  short 
time  young  growths  will  appear  at  the  nodes.  When  large 
enough  they  are  taken  up  and  potted  in  ordinary  compost. 
Two  years  at  least  are  needed  for  them  to  attain  to  flower- 
ing size,  but  this  is  the  best  method  where  a  large  number  of 
plants  are  wanted.  (See  also  under  Orchids.) 

Thuya,  including   Biota  (Arbor-Vitse,    White   Cedar   errone- 
ously).     Coniferce. 

Seeds.  Layers.  Cuttings  of  green  shoots  in  summer  in  a 
cool  frame.  Cuttings  of  ripe  wood,  as  recommended  for 
retinospora.  The  named  varieties  are  often  grafted  on  pot- 
ted common  stocks  in  winter  or  early  fall. 

Thyme  (  Thymes  vulgaris}.     Labiatcr. 

Seeds  and  divisions. 
Thyrsacanthus,  Odontonema  (Thyrse  Flower).    Acanthacece. 

Seeds  ;  cuttings  made  in  spring,  and  placed  in  a  close, 
warm  frame. 

Tiarella .     Saxifragece . 

Seeds  and  divisions. 
Tigridia  (Tiger  Flower).     Iridece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  or  generally  by  offsets. 
Tilia  (Basswood,  Linden,  Lime-tree).      Tiliacece. 

Stocks  are  grown  from  stratified  seeds.  Layers  may  be 
made,  and  cuttings  may  be  employed,  but  the  named  sorts 


278  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

are  usually  grafted  on  strong  common  stocks.     Mound-layer- 
ing is  sometimes  practiced. 

Tillandsia.     Bromeliacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  and  by  suckers  which  should 
be  allowed  to  grow  large  before  being  detached  from  the 
parent  and  should  then  be  inserted  singly  in  pots,  in  a  com- 
post of  loam,  peat,  and  leaf  mould.     Keep  moderately  moist 
and  well  shaded.      T.  usneoides  is  the  "  Spanish  Moss"  of  the 
south  ;  rarely  propagated,  but  may  be  grown  from  seeds  or 
divisions  of  the  moss. 
Tobacco.     See  Nicotiana. 
Tolu  Balsam-tree.     See  Myroxylon. 
Tomato  (Lycopersicum  esculentuni).      Solanacecc. 

Seeds,  usually  started  under  glass.      Cuttings  of    growing 
shoots. 
Torenia.     Scrophularihece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings,  in  a  warm  frame. 
Torreya .     Conifer  ce . 

Increased  the  same  as  Thuya  and  Retinospora. 
Trachelium  (Throatwort).      Campanulacece. 

Seeds  and  cuttings. 
Trachelospennum,  Rhynchospermum.      Apocynacece. 

Seeds.     Firm  cuttings,  in  a  frame. 
Trachycarpus.     Palmce. 
Seeds  and  suckers. 
Tradescantia.      Commelinaceoe. 

Usually  by  cuttings  ;  also  by  seeds  and  divisions. 
Trapa  (Water  Caltrops).      Onagrariece. 

Seeds. 

Tree  of  Heaven.     See  Ailanthus. 
Trichilia.     Meliacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of    the   ripened   wood,  with   leaves,    or 
under  glass  in  heat. 

Trichopilia.     Orchidece. 

Divisions  of  the  plants.      (See  also  under  Orchids.) 
Trichosanthes  (Snake  Gourd).     Cucurbitacece. 

Seeds,  either  in-doors  or  out. 


THE  NURSERY  LIST. 


279 


Tricyrtis.    Liliacece. 

Seeds  rarely.     Offsets  and  divisions. 

Trillium    (American    Wood-Lily,    Indian    Shamrock,    Wake- 
Robin).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  divisions. 
Triteleia  (Triplet  Lily).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  offsets. 

Tritoma.     See  Kniphofia. 

Tritonia,  Aletris,  including  Montbretia.     Iridece. 

Young  plants  are  raised  from  seeds  ;  but  generally  in- 
creased by  divisions. 

Trollius  (Globe  Flower,  Globe  Ranunculus).    Ranunculacece. 

Seeds.  Divisions  in  early  autumn  or  spring.  The  seeds 
should  be  sown  fresh  or  a  long  time  will  be  required  for  ger- 
mination. 

Tropaeolum  (Nasturtium,  Canary-bird  Flower,  Indian  Cress). 

Geraniacece. 

Seeds,  started  in-doors  or  in  the  garden.  Tuberiferous 
species  by  tubers  or  divisions  of  roots.  Perennials  some- 
times by  cuttings  in  a  frame. 

Trumpet  Creeper.     See  Tecoma. 

Tuberose.     See  Polianthes. 

Tulipa  (Tulip).     Liliacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  boxes  of  light  sandy  soil,  in  late 
winter,  and  placed  in  a  cold  frame.  The  next  season  the 
young  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  a  prepared  bed  outside. 
Bulbels  may  be  detached  from  established  bulbs  when  they 
are  lifted,  and  grown  by  themselves.  This  is  the  usual 
method. 

Tulip-tree.     See  Liriodendron. 
Tupelo-tree.     See  Nyssa. 
Turnera.     Turneracece. 

Seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings. 
Turnip  (Brassica).      Cruciferce. 

Seeds,  where  the  plants  are  to  remain. 
Tydaea.     See  Gesnera. 


2go  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Typha  (Bullrush,  Cat's  Tail,  Reed  Mace;.      Typhacece. 

Propagation  may  be  effected  by  seeds  sown  in  a  pot 
plunged  in  water  nearly  to  the  level  of  the  soil ;  or  by 
divisions. 

Ulex  (Furze,  Gorse,  Whin).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  cuttings. 
Ulmus  (Elm).      Urticacece. 

Usually  propagated  by  stratified  seeds.  Layers  are  some- 
times made,  and  suckers  may  be  taken.  The  varieties  are 
grafted  on  common  stocks. 

Unicorn  Plant.     See  Martynia. 
IJvularia,  including  Oakesia  (Bellwort).     Liliacece. 
Seeds  ;  usually  by  divisions. 

Vaccinium  (Swamp  Huckleberry,   Whortleberry,   Blueberry, 

Bilberry,  Cranberry).      Vacdniacece. 

Seeds,  layers,  root  cuttings,  and  divisions  of  the  old  plants, 
Some  species  by  hard-wood  cuttings,  for  which  see  Cran- 
berry. Huckleberry  seeds  are  small  and  somewhat  difficult 
to  grow.  The  seeds  should  be  washed  from  the  fruits  and 
stored  in  sand  in  a  cool  place  until  late  in  winter.  They  are 
then  sown  in  pans  or  flats  on  the  surface  of  a  soil  made  of 
equal  parts  sand  and  loam.  Cover  with  fine  sphagnum  and 
keep  in  a  cool  house  or  frame,  always  keeping  the  seeds  moist. 
Seeds  treated  in  this  way  may  be  expected  to  germinate  in  a 
month  or  two,  although  they  may  lie  dormant  a  year.  Trans- 
plant frequently  and  keep  shaded  until  large  enough  to  shift 
for  themselves.  Layers  should  be  tongued.  Cuttings,  two 
or  three  inches  long,  of  the  best  roots,  made  in  fall  and 
placed  in  mild  bottom  heat  in  early  spring,  often  give  fair 
satisfaction.  Native  plants  can  be  obtained  frcm  the  woods 
and  fields  which  will  give  good  satisfaction  if  small  speci- 
mens are  taken. 

Valeriana  (Valerian).      Valerianece. 

Seeds  and  divisions. 
Vallota.     Amaryllidece. 

Bulbels,  which  usually  appear  above  the  surface  of  the 
pot.  Division  of  the  bulbs. 

Vanda.     Orchidece. 

The  majority  are  propagated  in  the  same  way  as  described 
for  aerides,    but  two  species —  V.  teres  and    V.    Hookeri — both 


THE  NURSERY  LIST.  28l 

tall  and  quick  growing,  may  be  cut  into  lengths  of  a  few 
inches.  The  practice  of  the  most  successful  cultivators  is  to 
start  them  every  year  as  cuttings  about  a  foot  long.  (See 
also  under  Orchids.) 

Vanilla.     Ore  hide  ce. 

Division  and  cuttings.  The  vanilla  of  commerce  (  V.  plani- 
folia]  is  propagated  from  cuttings  which  are  planted  at  the 
base  of  trees,  upon  which  the  plant  climbs.  (See  also  under 
Orchids  ) 

Vegetable  Oyster.     See  Salsify. 
Veitchia.     Palmce. 

Seeds. 
Veltheimia.     Liliacece. 

By  fresh  seeds  or  separation  of  the  bulbs. 
Veratrum  (False  or  White  Hellebore).     Lihacece. 

Young  plants  are  obtained  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 
Verbascum  (Mullein).     Scrophularinece. 

All  are  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  any  ordinary  soil,  except 
V.  nigrum  and  V.  pmnatifidum,  which  should  be  increased  by 
divisions  and  cuttings  respectively. 

Verbena  (Vervain).      Verbenacece. 

Seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings  of  vigorous  shoots.  Some  species 
by  divisions. 

Vernonia,  including  Ascaricida  (Ironweed).      Composite?. 

May  be  raised  from  seeds,  divisions,  or  cuttings,  depending 
on  the  character  of  the  plant. 

Veronica  (Speedwell).      Scrophularinece. 

Seeds  and  divisions.      Shrubby  sorts  often  by  cuttings. 
Vesicaria  (Bladder-pod).     Crudferce. 

Annuals  by  seeds  ;  perennials  by  division 
Vetch  ( Vicia  saliva].     Leguminosce. 

By  seeds  in  open  air. 
Viburnum.     Caprifoliacece. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  stratified.     They  usually  remain 

dormant  the  first  year.     Layers  usually  make  the  best  plants. 

Green  cuttings  made  in  summer  and  handled  in  frames  give 

excellent  results.     V.  plicatum   is  propagated   by  cuttings. 

N.   B. — 19 


282  THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 

Ripe  cuttings  are  sometimes  used  for  the  soft-wooded  species. 
The  snowball  or  guelder-rose  ( V.  Opulus*}  is  rapidly  increased 
by  layers.  It  is  also  a  good  stock  for  closely-related  species. 
V.  Lantana  and  V.  dentata  are  good  stocks  on  which  varieties 
difficult  to  handle  can  be  worked  by  the  veneer-graft  during 
winter. 

Victoria  (Royal  Water  Lily,  Water  Platter).     Nymphceacece. 

The  seeds  should  be  kept  in  vessels  of  water  until  ready 
for  sowing,  when  they  may  be  placed  in  loamy  soil,  and  the 
pot  submerged  a  couple  of  inches  in  water,  the  temperature 
of  which  should  not  be  allowed  to  fall  below  85°.  The 
tank  should  be  in  a  light  position  near  the  glass.  Annual. 

Vinca  (Periwinkle).     Apocynacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  divisions. 
Viola  (Violet,  Heartsease,  Pansy).      Violariece. 

The  named  violets  are  increased  by  cuttings  made  in  a 
cool  house  from  vigorous  shoots.  Common  species  by  seeds, 
runners  and  divisions  of  the  plants.  Pansies  are  usually 
grown  from  seeds,  but  named  varieties  may  be  multiplied 
from  cuttings  taken  late  in  the  season,  or  from  layers. 

Virgilia.     See  Cladrastis. 

Virginia  Creeper.     See  Ampelopsis. 

Virgin's  Bower.     See  Clematis. 

Viscum  (Mistletoe).     Loranthacece . 

Raised  from  seed,  which  should  be  inserted  in  a  notch  cut 
in  the  bark  or  under  side  of  a  branch  of  the  host.  Avoid 
crushing  the  seed,  and  have  the  embryo  directed  towards  the 
trunk.  To  prevent  birds  from  disturbing  the  seeds  after 
being  placed  in  position,  cover  with  light-colored  cloth. 
The  seed  may  also  be  fastened  to  a  smooth  part  of  the  tree 
by  the  sticky  substance  surrounding  it,  but  more  seed  is  lost 
Our  native  phoradendron  can  be  handled  in  the  same  way. 

Vitex  (Chaste-tree).      Verbenacece. 

Seeds.  Suckers.  Layers.  Cuttings  of  green  or  ripened 
wood. 

Vitis.     See  Grape. 

Vochysia,  Curcullaria.      Vochysiacece. 

Seeds  ;  by  ripened  cuttings  in  sand  under  glass,  in  heat. 
Waahoo.     See  Euonymus. 


THE  NURSER  Y  LIST.  283 

Waldsteinia.     Rosacece. 

May  be  multiplied  by  seeds  or  divisions. 
Wall-flower  (Cheircmtkus  Cheiri].     Cruciferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  the  plants,  however,  will  not  flower 
at  the  north  until  the  second  season  ;  protection  of  a  frame 
is  required. 

Wallichia,  Wrightia.     Palmce. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds ;  or  by  suckers,  which  should 
be  gradually  separated  so  as  to  allow  them  to  make  sufficient 
roots  before  they  are  quite  detached. 

Walnut.     See  Juglans. 

Water-Cress  {Nasturtium  officinale}.      Cruciferce. 

Cuttings  of  the  young  stems,  which  root  in  mud  with  great 
readiness.  Seeds  scattered  in  the  water  or  mud. 

Water-Lily.     See  Nymphaea,  Nelumbo  and  Victoria. 
Water-Melon  (Citrullus  vulgaris}.      Cucurbitacece. 

Seeds,  usually  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  remain,  after 
the  weather  is  warm  and  settled. 

Watsaonia  (Bugle  Lily).     Iridece. 

The  plants  are  multiplied  by  seeds  or  by  offsets. 
Wax  Flower.     See  Hoya. 
Weigela.     See  Diervilla. 
Wellingtonia.     See  Sequoia. 
Whin.     See  Ulex  and  Genista, 
White  Cedars.     See  Chamascyparis  and  Thuya. 
White-wood.     See  Liriodendron  and  Tilia. 
Whitlava.     See  Phacelia. 
Whortleberry,  Huckleberry  (Gaylussacia  resinosa}.     Ericaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  and  other- 
wise carefully  handled.  (See  also  Vaccinium.) 

Willow.     See  Salix. 

Wind  Flower.     See  Anemone. 

Windsor,  Broad  or  Horn  Bean  (Vicia  Faba.)     Leguminosce. 

Propagation  by  seeds  in  open  air  after  the  soil  is  fairly 
warm. 

Winter  Aconite.     See  Eranthis. 
Winter  Cress.     See  Barbarea. 


284  THE  NVRSERY-BOOK. 

Wistaria.     Leguminosce. 

Readily  grown  from  seeds.  Sometimes  by  division. 
Layers.  Cuttings  of  ripened  wood,  usually  handled  under 
glass.  The  common  purple  and  white  kinds  are  largely 
grown  from  root-cuttings,  an  inch  or  two  long,  placed  in 
bottom  heat,  when  they  will  start  in  four  or  five  weeks. 
Many  of  the  fancy  kinds,  especially  when  wood  is  scarce,  are 
root-or  crown-grafted  upon  W.  Sinensis, 

Witch-hazel.     See  Hamamelis. 
Woad-Waxen.     See  Genista. 

Woodbine.     A  name  properly  belonging  to  climbing  Loniceras, 
but  often  applied  to  Ampelopsis,  both  of  which  see. 

Wormwood,  Southern  wood  (Artemisia  Absinthium} .   Compositce. 

Seeds  and  division. 
Wrightia,  Balfouria  (Palay  or  Ivory-tree).     Apocynacece. 

Seeds ;  usually  by  cuttings,  which  root  readily  in  sand  in 
heat. 

Xanthoceras.     Sapindaceoe. 

Usually  multiplied  by  seeds  ;  root-cuttings  are  sometimes 
used. 

Xanthorhiza,  Zanthorhiza.     Ranunculacece. 

Seeds  and  suckers. 
Xanthorrhcea  (Black  Boy,  Grass-tree).     Juncacece. 

Seeds;  but  usually  by  offsets. 
Xanthosoma,  including  Acontias.     Aroidecc. 

May  be  increased  by  cutting  up  the  stem  or  root-stock  into 
small  pieces  and  planting  these  in  light  soil,  or  cocoa  fibre,  in 
bottom  heat.  After  a  stem  has  been  cut  off,  a  number  of 
shoots  are  developed,  which  can  be  treated  as  cuttings. 

Xerophyllum.     Liliacece. 

May  be  propagated  by  seeds  and  by  divisions. 

Xiphion.     See  Iris. 
Xylophylla.     See  Phyllanthus. 
Yam.     See  Discorea. 
Yellow-wood.     See  Cladrastis. 
Yew.     See  Taxus. 


THE  NURSER  Y  LIST.  285 

Yucca  (Adam's  Needle,  Bear's  Grass,  Spanish  Bayonet).      Lil- 

iacece. 

Increased  by  seeds ;  and  by  divisions,  which  may  be 
planted  in  the  open  ground,  or  by  pieces  of  thick,  fleshy 
roots,  cut  into  lengths,  and  inserted  in  sandy  soil,  in  heat. 

Yulan.     See  Magnolia. 
Zamia.      Cycadacece. 

Division  of  the  crowns  when  possible ;  or  by  seeds  and 

suckers.      The  plants  are  oftenest  imported   directly  from 

the  tropics. 

Zanthoriza.     See  Xanthoriza. 
Zanthoxylum  (Prickly  Ash).     Rutacece. 

Seeds,  suckers,  but  more  often  by  root-cuttings. 

Zea.     See  Maize. 

Zfephyranthes,    including    Habranthus   (Flower   of   the   West 
Wind,  Zephyr  Flower).     Amaryllidece. 

May  be  multiplied  by  seeds  ;  or  by  separating  the  bulbels. 
Zingiber,  including  Zerumbet  (Ginger).     Scitaminecc. 

Propagated  by  division. 
Zinnia  (Youth-and-old-Age).      Composites. 

Seeds,  sown  either  in-dooro  or  out. 
Zizania  (Wild  or  Indian  Rice).      Gramince. 

Seeds,  sown  along  water  courses  or, in  bogs  in  fall  or 
spring. 

Zizyphus.     See  Jujube. 

Zygadenus,  including  Amianthemum,  Anticloa.     Liliacece. 

Readily  multiplied  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 
Zygopetalum.     Or  chide  ce. 

Division.      (See  also  under  Orchids.) 
Zygophyllum  (Bean  Caper).     Zygophyllecc, 

Seeds,  when  they  can  be  had  ;  otherwise  by  cuttings  in  a 
frame. 


CHAPTER    VII. 


POLLINATION 

Pollination.— The  act  of  conveying  the  pollen  horn  the  anther  to  the 
stigma. 

Close-pollination— Self-pollination.— The  transfer  of  pollen  to  a  stigma 
of  the  same  flower. 

Cross-pollination.— The  conveyance  of  pollen  to  the  stigma  of  another 
flower. 

Crossing'. — The  operation  or  practice  of  cross-pollinating. 

Fertilization— Fecundation— Impregnation.— The  action  of  the  pollen 
upon  the  ovules. 

Close-fertilization— Self-fertilization.— Ths  action  of  pollen  upon  the 
ovules  of  the  same  flower. 

Cross-fertilization.— The  action  of  pollen  upon  the  ovules  of  another 
flower  of  the  same  species. 

Individual-fertilization.— Fertilization  between  flowers  upon  the  same 
plant. 

Hybridizing. — The  operation  or  practice  of  crossing  between  species. 

Hybridism— Hybridity.— The  state,  quality  or  condition  of  being  a 
hybrid. 

Hybridization. — The  state  or  condition  of  being  hybrid'  ied,  or  the  pro- 
cess or  act  of  hybridizing. 

Cross. — An  offspring  of  any  two  flowers  which  have  beei.  cross-fertilized. 

Individual-Cross.— An  offspring  of  two  flowers  on  the  same  plant. 

Cross-breed— Half-breed— Mongrel— Variety-hybrid.— A   cross   be- 
tween varieties  of  the  same  species. 

Hybrid. — An  offspring  of  plants  ofidifferent  species. 

Half -hybrid. — A  product  of  a  cross  betwee.i  a  species  and  a  variety  of 
another  species. 

Derivative  or  Derivation-hybrid— Secondary-h:Ttriu.  —  ^  nybrid  be- 
ween  hybrids,  or  between  a  hybrid  and  one  of  its  parents. 

Bigener — Bigeneric-hybrid. — A   hybrid  between  species  ui   different 
genera. 

(286) 


PO  LLIN A  TION. 


287 


Bigeneric  half-breed.— A  product  of  a  cross  between  varieties  of  species 
of  different  genera. 
Mule.— A  sterile  (seedless)  hybrid. 

6ENERAL  REQUIREMENTS.— In  order  to  understand 
the  methods  of  pollination,  the  reader  must  be  able  to 
re")gaL:e  the  parts  of    the  flower.     The  fuchsia,  Fig. 
^  >,  snows  the  parts  distinctly.     The  open  flower,  on  the  right, 
contains  four  well-marked  series  of  organs.     The  first  series  is 
composed  of  four  narrow  and  leaf -like  parts  or  sepals,  collect- 
ively called  the  calyx.     Borne  upon  these  is  the  corolla,  made  up 
of   four  blunt  and  variously  colored  petals.     The  next  series 
comprises  eight  slender  stamens  or  male  organs  (S).    The  thread- 
like portions  or  stalks  of  these  are 
the  filaments  and  upon  them  are 
borne  the  anthers.     The  anthers 
contain  the  pollen.     The  last  and 
innermost    series    is    a   pistil    or 
female  organ  (P).     The   pistil  is 
made    up    of    three    parts :     the 
ovary,    which   develops    into    the 
seed-pod,  the  style  or  slender  por- 
tion, and  the  stigma,  or  enlarge- 
ment at  the  end.     The  ovary  in 
this  case  is  the  oblong  body  borne 
at    the   base    of    the    flower    and 
upon  which  the  other  parts  stand. 
The  style  runs  through  the  flower 
to  the  ovary. 

The  modifications  of  the  flower 
are  numberless,  both  in  form  and 
number  of  parts,  but  these  four 
series  o f  organs — t  he  calyx, 
corolla,  stamens  and  pistils — al- 
ways comprise  a  complete  flower 
and  they  are  arranged  in  the  order 
named.  A  perfect  flower  is  one 
which  contain*  both  stamens  and  pistils  without  any  reference 
to  the  surrounding  or  leaf-like  organs.  Many  flowers  are  im- 


Parts  of  the  Flower. 


288 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


perfect  or  contain  only  one  sex.  When  the  sexes  are  borne  in 
different  flowers  upon  the  same  plant,  the  species  is  said  to 
be  monoecious ;  and 
when  they  are  borne 
upon  different  plants 
the  species  i  s  dioe- 
cious.  Sometimes 
the  inflorescence  is 
mixed,  some  flowers 
being  perfect,  some 
staminate  and  some 
pistillate,  all  upon 
the  same  plant ;  such 
species  are  polyga- 
mous. Most  garden 
plants  have  perfect 
flowers.  Many  nut- 
bearing  trees  are 
monoecious,  as  wal- 
nuts, butternut, 
hickories,  chestnuts, 
hazels  and  filbert 
and  oaks.  Some  of 

the  composite  plants  are  also  monoecious,  the  large  head  bearing 
staminate  flowers  in  one  part  and  pistillate  in  another.  Pump- 
kins and  squashes  are  monoecious  and  so  are  most  varieties  of 
melons.  Fig.  91  shows  a  pistillate  pumpkin  flower  with  the 
ovary  or  young  pumpkin  below,  and  Fig.  92  a  staminate  flower 
which  lacks  the  enlargement  below.  Among  dioecious  species 
may  be  mentioned  the  willows  and  poplars. 

The  ovary  contains  the  ovules.  When  these  are  acted  upon  or 
fertilized  by  the  pollen  they  develop  into  seeds.  The  pollen  falls 
upon  the  stigma  or  upper  extremity  of  the  pistil,  and  each 
grain  germinates  and  sends  a  tube  down  through  the  style  to  an 
ovule.  The  stigma  is  a  slightly  roughened  soft  surface,  and 
when  it  is  "ripe,"  or  ready  to  receive  the  pollen,  it  becomes 
slightly  moist  or  sticky.  In  most  plants  the  stigma  is  merely 


Fig.  91.     Pistillate  Squash  flower. 


POLL  IN  A  riON. 


285 


Fig.  92.    Staminate  Squash  flower. 


a  circular  expansion  of    tissue   (Fig.  97),   but  sometimes  it  is 
divided  into  lobes  and  the  lobes  remain  closed  until  it  is  ready 

for  the  pollen.  The  fuchsia 
stigma  is  composed  of  four 
lobes,  which  are  closed  in  Fig. 
go.  Fig.  93  shows  the  two-lobed 
stigma  of  the  trumpet-creeper 
or  tecoma  before  the  flower  is 
ready  for  pollination.  Fig.  94 
shows  the  stigma  open,  in  condi- 
tion to  receive  the  pollen.  In 
these  flowers  the  stamens  are 
hidden  in  the  tube  of  the  co- 
rolla. 

The  pollen  is  nearly  always  in 
the  form  of  very  small  grains, 
which  become  dry  when  ripe. 
In  some  plants,  notably  in 
orchids,  the  pollen  is  borne  in 
large  masses  known  as  pollinia.  When  the  anther  is  "ripe  "  it 
assumes  a  yellow,  orange  or  brownish  cast  and  the  pollen  is  dis- 
charged through  a  split  in  the  side,  a  chink  at  the  apex  or  other 
aperture.  The  pollen  may  fall  upon  and  fertilize  the  stigma  of 
the  same  flower,  in  which  case  the  flower  is  said  to  be  self- 
fertilized,  or  oftener  it  is  carried  to  another  flower  by  insects, 
winds  or  other  agencies.  Most  plants  possess  some  contrivance 
which  renders  salf-fertilization  difficult  and  cross-fertilization 
easy. 

There  are  many  degrees  of  cross-fertilization.  The  cross 
may  take  place  between  two  flowers  in  the  same  cluster  or 
between  two  clusters  upon  the  same  plant ;  or  it  may  take  place 
between  distinct  plants,  either  of  the  same  or  of  another 
species.  Fertilization  between  flowers  on  the  same  plant  is 
known  as  individual-fertilization.  The  limits  within  which 
crossing  is  possible  are  not  known,  but  the  closer  the  species  are 
related  the  more  readily,  as  a  rule,  will  they  cross.  One  of  the 
barriers  which  nature  erects  to  prevent  self  or  close-fertilization 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


is  a  difference  in  time  of  maturing  of  the  two  sexes.  In  any 
flower  the  two  parts  are  rarely  ready  at  the  same  time.  Flow- 
ers in  which  the  stamens  mature  first  are  said  to  be  proteran- 
drous,  and  those  in  which  the  pistils  mature  first  are  proterogyn- 
ous.  In  crossing  such  species,  flowers  of  different  ages  can 
usually  be  found  so  that  the  parts  can  be  brought  together  with- 


Fig.  93.    Closed  stigma  of 
tecoma. 


Fig.  94.    Open  stigma  of 
tecoma. 


out  difficulty.  But  when  one  series  of  organs  in  all  the  flowers 
of  any  species  perish  before  the  other  series  is  mature,  the  pol- 
len must  be  kept  until  the  pistils  are  ready,  or  one  sex  must  be 
forced  or  retarded  artificially  to  accommodate  the  other.  If  the 
pollen  matures  first,  it  is  only  necessary  to  keep  it  a  few  days 
until  the  pistil  is  ready  ;  but  if  the  pistil  matures  first,  and  the 
plants  cannot  be  handled  artificially,  the  pollen  must  be  kept 


POLLINATION.  291 

over  until  the  following  season  in  order  to  effect  any  crosses. 
The  longevity  of  pollen  is  little  understood.  That  of  some 
species  will  keep  much  longer  than  others.  It  is  supposed  that, 
as  a  rule,  it  will  not  keep  beyond  a  few  days  or  weeks.  If  the 
pollen  is  to  be  kept,  the  anthers  should  be  picked  just  before 
ready  to  burst  and  laid  upon  paper  in  a  warm,  dry  and  shady 
place  until  they  dry  up  and  the  pollen  is  all  discharged.  The 
anthers  must  then  be  removed,  and  the  pollen  is  securely  wrap- 
ped in  dry  paper.  If  it  is  to  be  kept  long  it  will  probably  be 
better  to  place  it  in  small,  closely  cork-stoppered  vials.  It 
should  be  kept  in  a  uniform  temperature. 

Methods. — All  perfect  flowers — those  which  contain  both 
stamens  and  pistils — must  be  deprived  of  their  anthers  before 
the  pollen  is  discharged,  to  prevent  self-fertilization.  This 
removal  of  the  anthers  is  called  emasculation.  It  is  performed 
before  the  flower  opens,  and  therefore  before  any  foreign  pollen 
could  have  reached  the  stigma.  In  some  flowers,  as  in  the 
tomato,  Fig.  95,  ths  stigma  protrudes  even  before  the  petals  are 
fully  grown  and  emasculation  must  be  performed  very  early. 
Even  if  the  stigma  is  not  mature,  there  is  a  chance  that  pollen 
will  adhere  to  it  and  persist  until  conditions  are  fit  for  its 
growth. 

The  flower  is  generally  emasculated  by  pulling  out  the  anthers 
with  pincers,  but  some  large  anthers  can  be  hooked  out  easily 
by  a  very  small  crochet  hook  or  by  a  pin  bent  to  a  minute  hook 
upon  the  point. 

It  is  many  times  a  tedious  operation,  how- 
ever, to  pull  out  the  anthers  without  crushing 
them,  and  thus  distribute  some  of  the  pollen. 
A  surer  and  better  plan  with  most  flowers  is  to 
cut  off   the  floral  envelopes  and  the  stamens 
near  the  base  with  a  pair  of  small  and  sharp- 
Fig.  95-    Tomato-  pointed  scissors  which  cut  well  at  the  point.     A 
flower. I          JQ  Fig    9Q  snows  the  pOint  at  which  this  cut 
should  be  made  in  the  fuchsia.     With  a  little  practice,  one  can 
cut  off  the  parts  quickly.      Fig.  96  shows  a  tomato-flower  after 


292 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


it  has  been  emasculated  in  this  fashion.     Fig.  97  represents  two 

flowers  of  Nicotiana  affinis,  one  of  which  has  been  cut.  One 
of  the  most  important  features  of  this  method 
is  the  marking  of  the  fruits  which  results 
in  all  species  in  which  the  calyx  persists. 
The  calyx,  of  course,  does  not  develop  and 
the  crossed  fruit  can  be  distinguished  at 
once,  even  though  the  label  is  lost.  The 

Fig.  96     Emascu-  tomato  fruit  in  Fig.  98  lacks  entirely  the  long 

lated  tomato-      leaf -like  calyx  lobes  at  the  base.     Fig.  99  shows 

flower.  upon  the  right  a  gooseberry  fruit,  of  which  the 

flower  was  cut,  while  that  on  the  left  illustrates  an  untreated 

fruit  with  the  long  persistent  calyx.     This  marking  of  the  calyx 

is  useful  in  all  the  pomaceous  fruits, 

like   apples   and   pears,    and    even    in 

capsular  fruits,  like  phloxes  and  petu- 
nias, in  which  the  calyx  lobes  remain 

green. 

As  soon  as  the  flower  is  emasculated 

it  must  be  securely  tied  up  with  a  bag, 

to  exclude  pollen,  as  seen  in  Fig.  100. 

Netting  of  any  kind  is  not  safe  in  ordi- 
nary practice,  for  the  pollen  grains  are 

small  enough  to  pass    through   it.     It 

often  happens  that  the  flower-stem  is 

not  strong  enough  to  hold  the  bag,  nor 

large  enough  to  allow  the  bag  to  be 

puckered   tightly   about    it.      In   such 

cases,  all  the  remaining  flowers  in  the 

cluster  should  be  removed  and  the  bag 

should  be  tied  over  a  portion  of  the 

branch.     The  branch  will  often  need 

to  be  cut  off  to  accommodate  the  bag. 

If  there  are  many  large  leaves  about 


the  flowers,  part  of  them  will  need  to 


Fig.  97.    Nicotiana  affinis. 


be  cut  off.      It  is  always  a  good  practice  to  emasculate  two  or 
three  flowers  in  the  cluster — or  all  those  of  the  same  age — in. 


POLLINA  TION. 


293 


Fig.  98.    Crossed  tomato. 


order  to  multiply  the  chances  of  success.  If  flowers  of  differ- 
ent ages  are  emasculated,  however,  the  bag  will  have  to  be 
removed  several  times  to  apply  the 
pollen  as  the  stigmas  mature,  and  the 
chances  of  success  will  be  lessened, 
for  the  flowers  should  be  handled  as 
little  as  possible. 

Various  bags  have  been  devised  and 
recommended  for  covering  the  flowers, 
but  none  of  them  yet  introduced  are 
equal  to  the  ordinary  grocers'  manilla 
bags.  The  only  difficulty  is  that  the 
smallest  size — the  fourth-pound — is  too  large  for  many  small 
subjects,  but  for  these  the  bag  can  be  cut  off.  A  soft  string,  five 
or  six  inches  long,  is  passed  through  one  of  the  folds  of  the  bag 
about  an  inch  from  the  open  end,  as  seen  in  Fig.  101,  and  is  tied 
to  hold  it  in  place.  To  make  the  bag  pucker  tightly  about  the 
stem,  it  should  be  moistened  just  before  it  is  used. 

In  some  flowers  which  have  long  and  thick  tube-like  corollas, 
and  in  which  the  stigma  matures  quickly,  the  end  of  the  corolla 
itself  may  be  tied  up.  The  flowers  of  squashes  and  pumpkins 
are  particularly  adapted  to  this  treatment,  and  one  is  shown  in 
Fig.  102.  The  flower  is  tied  before  it  opens.  In  squash-like 
plants  the  flowers  usually  open  early  in  the  morning  and  the 

flowers  are  tied  up  the  preceding 
evening.     The  corollas  soon  wilt 
and  bags  must  be  used  after  the 
pollen  is  applied  ;  and  even  if  the 
corolla  does  not  wilt  and  shrivel, 
insects  sometimes  eat  through  it 
and  interfere  with  the  experiment. 
All  imperfect  flowers  of  course 
Fig.  99.    Crossed  and  uncrossed  Qeed   no  emasculation,  but  they 
gooseberries.  must  be  tied  up  while  yet  in  the 

bud  to  protect  them  from  pollen. 

As  soon  as  the  stigma  matures — which  will  vary  from  one 
to  six  or  seven  days,  according  to  the  species — the  pollen  must  be 


THE  NURSERY-HOOK. 


applied.  The  novice  will  be  obliged  to  remove  the  bags  occa- 
sionally, to  see  if  the  stigmas  are  ready.  As  soon  as  the  shiny 
or  glutinous  appearance  of  the  stigma 
is  seen,  pollination  should  be  per- 
formed. The  pollen  is  most  easily 
secured  by  removing  an  anther  when 
it  is  about  to  burst  and  breaking  it 
open.  If  the  anther  is  allowed  to 
break  open  naturally,  the  pollen  will 
be  lost,  or  at  least  difficult  to  secure. 
There  are  various  instruments  recom- 
mended to  aid  in  the  transfer  of  the 
pollen.  A  camel's  hair  brush  is  often 
advised,  but  it  is  probably  the  poorest 
instrument  which  can  be  used.  It 
wastes  the  pollen  and  also  mixes  it  by 
holding  it  among  the  hairs,  and  it  is 
often  a  difficult  matter  to  apply  pol- 
len to  the  stigma  evenly  and  in  suffi- 
cient amount.  The  point  of  a  small 
knife-blade  is  a  better  instrument. 
A  still  handier  and  better  tool  is  made 


Fig.  100.    Flower  tied  up. 


by  flattening  the  point  of  a  pin  and  then  inserting  the  little 
scalpel  in  a  handle,  as. shown  in  Fig.  103.  With  the  point  of 
this  implement  the  pollen  can  be  removed  from  the  groove  or  open- 
ing in  the  side  of  the  anther.  It  is  commonly  better,  however, 
to. place  the  unopened  anther  upon  the  thumb  nail  and  crush  it 
with  the  scalpel,  when  the  pollen  can  be  gathered  up  on  the 
point  and  transferred  to  the  stigma.  In  some  species  the  pollen 
can  "be  removed  only  by  opening  .the  anther-valves  dexterously. 
Such  is  the  case  with  the  tomato  ;  the  point  of  the  scalpel  is  in- 
serted in  a  longitudinal  groove  or  fold  'in  the  side  of  the  anther, 
and  as  it  is  carried  upwards  the  pollen  is  secured. 

The  stigma  should  receive  an  abundant  supply  of  pollen.  No 
harm  can  come  from  supplying  too  much,  while  if  too  little 
is  applied,  some  of  the  seeds  will  not  mature  or  even  the  fruit 
may  not  set.  It  is  well  known  that  in  many  plants,  at  least,  the 


PO  LLINA  TION . 


29; 


pollen  stimulates  the  development  of  the  fruit-walls,  as  well  as 

fertilizes  the  ovules,  and  a  greater  amount  of   pollen  than  is 

sufficient  to  produce  the  seeds  them- 
selves may  therefore  exert  an  important 

influence.     Sometimes  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  use  an  instrument  to  transfer 

the  pollen.     If   the  pollen  is  copious 

and  adheres  to  the  anther  after  it  is 

discharged,  the  anther  may  be  simply 

rubbed   over  the   stigma..    An  anther 

will  ordinarily  contain  sufficient  pollen 

to  fertilize  several  stigmas.     The  whole 

surface  of  the  stigma  should  be  covered 

until   it   is   colored   with   the   pollen. 

Sometimes  it  will  be  found  advisable  to 

cut  off  the  corolla  from  large  flowers, 

if  it  was  not  done  when  the  flower  was 

emasculated,  to  facilitate  the  labor  of 

applying  pollen.     The  short  stigmas  of 

squashes,  for  instance,  can  be  reached 

more  easily  if  the  corolla  is  removed, 

as  in  Fig.  104. 

In  order  to  prevent  the  mixing  of   pollen,  the  flowers  from 

which  it  is  to  be  derived  should  be  covered  while  in  the  bud,  the 

same  as  the  flowers  designed  as  the  pistillate  parents.  Other- 
wise foreign  pollen 
may  be  deposited 
upon  the  anthers  by 
insects  or  winds. 

As  soon  as  the  pol- 
len is  applied  to  the 
stigma,  the  flower 
should  be  tied  up  again 
the  same  as  before. 

Fig.  102.    Squash  flower  tied  up.  The    ba§    should    re' 

main    three    or    four 

days  or  a  week,  until  the  stigma  has  died  and  all  danger  of 


Fig.  101.    Bag. 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


another  pollination  is  removed.  If  the  fruit  is  likely  to  be 
destroyed  by  birds  or  insects,  it  should  be  covered  with  netting 

bags  as  soon 
as  the  paper^ 
bags    are 
Fig.  103.    Pin-scalpel.  removed. 

These  bags  also  serve  to  mark  the  crossed  fruits,  and  to  catch 
them  if  they  should  drop  before  the  operator  is  aware.  Of 
course  all  crosses  should  be  labelled  with  the  names  of  both 
parents  and  the  date  of  the  operation. 

For  ordinary  operations,  no  especial  outfit  is  necessary  for  the 
crossing  of  plants,  but  those  who  experiment  largely  will  find 
that  the  work  will  be  greatly  facilitated  by  the  use  of  a  portable 
box  in  which  the  various  requisites  dan  be  carried.  If  this  box 
has  a  compartment  for  every  article,  the  operator  will  see  at  a 
glance  if  anything  is  lacking  before  he  goes  to  the  field.  Figs. 
105  and  1 06  illustrate  a  convenient  pollinating  kit.  This  is  made 
about  12  inches  long,  9  inches  wide  and  3  inches  deep.  In 
the  central  portion  is  a  compartment  for  bags  and  one  for 
labels.  At  the  right  end,  running  crosswise,  is  a  narrow  com- 
partment for  string,  and  at  its  upper  end  is  a  small  bottle  of 
alcohol.  Into  this  alcohol  the  scalpel  and  other 
tools  are  dipped  whenever  another  kind  of  pol- 
len is  to  be  used,  in  order  to  destroy  what- 
ever pollen  grains  may  adhere  to  them.  In 
front  is  a  compartment  for  a  magnifying  glass, 
and  a  long  one  to  hold  scalpel,  brushes,  crochet- 
hook  and  pencil.  The  note-book  is  held  in  the 
cover  by  a  wire  clasp. 

It  is  rare  that  all  the  flowers  which  one  polli- 
nates will  mature  fruit.  If  one-half  are  suc- 
cessful on  the  average,  the  operator  may  be 
satisfied.  External  conditions  have  much  to 
do  with  the  success  of  the  operation.  Some 
species  do  not  set  well  during  very  dry  weather 
and  some  are  impatient  of  confinement.  But  probably  all 
plants  which  thrive  under  glass  are  more  sure  to  give  good 


Fig  104.  Treated 
squash  flower. 


POLLINATION.  397 

results  if  pollinated  under  confinement,  because  conditions  are 
under  control. 

Crossing  of  Flowerless  Plants. — Ferns,  lycopodiums,  and 
their  allies,  pass  /  ^-===~^m^~ 

through    two   stages       / 

of  development,  and     HIIHBHHHHHHMUllllllllilllllilllllM 
fertilization    takes 
place   only   in    the 
first    stage.      When 
spores  germinate,  a 
small,    thin,    green          .      Fig.  105.    Pollinating  Kit,  closed, 
tissue   spreads    over 

the  soil.  This  tissue  is  the  prothallus  (or  prothallium).  Upon 
the  prothallus,  or  somewhat  sunken  in  it,  the  sexual  organs 
appear.  They  are  minute  aggregations  of  cells.  Some  of  these 
aggregations  develop  into  sperm  or  male  organs  and  some  into 
germ  or  female  organs.  The  sperm  organ  is  known  as  an  anther- 
idium  and  the  germ  organ  as  an  archegonium.  Spermatozoids 
are  formed  in  the  antheridium,  and  these  enter  the  archegonium 
and  fertilize  the  germ  cell.  This  fertilized  germ  cell  then  devel- 
ops into  the  second  stage  of  the  species,  or  into  that  part  which 
we  know  as  the  fern  or  the  lycopod.  During  this  second  stage, 
the  plant  bears  leaf -like  organs  and  it  also  produces  numerous 
spores.  These  spores  will  produce  the  prothallus  again  when 
sown.  Ferns,  therefore,  are  fertilized  but  once  during  their 
lifetime,  and  the  spores  are  not  the  direct  result  of  fertilization 
as  are  the  seeds  of  flowering  plants. 

If  ferns  and  other  flowerless  plants  are  to  be  crossed,  there- 
fore, the  operation  must  be  performed  in  the  prothallic  stage. 
It  was  long  a  matter  of  doubt  among  botanists  as  to  whether 
crossing  is  possible  among  these  plants,  but  it  is  now  known  that 
it  does  occur.  It  has  been  brought  about  repeatedly  in  cultiva- 
tion. The  sperm  bodies  are  not  transferred  by  hand,  but  the 
spores  of  the  species  between  which  crosses  are  desired  are 
sown  together  and  the  transfer  is  allowed  to  take  place  naturally. 
The  prothallia  of  ferns  are  nearly  always  dioecious  (sexes  borne 
on  different  plants),  so  that  crossing  in  such  cases  is  not  im- 


298  THE  NURSERY- BO  OK. 

probable.  Many  spores  should  be  sown  to  increase  the  chances 
of  success,  and  care  should  be'  taken  that  the  different  kinds 
germinate  simultaneously.  Some  species  germinate  quicker 
than  others,  and  the  operator  must  determine  by  previous  trial 
what  these  differences  are.  (For  methods  of  sowing  spores, 
see  page  24.)  Only  a  small  part  of  the  plants  will  be  likely  to 
be  crosses.  In  one  of  Lowe's  experiments,  only  five  plants  out 
of  1,000  were  undoubted  crosses 


Fig.  ic6.    Pollinating  Kit,  open. 


ORDINAL  INDEX. 


An  Index  to  the  natural  orders  or  families  mentioned  in  the 
Nursery  List.  A  number  in  parentheses  indicates  the  number 
of  references  to  the  family  upon  a  page,  if  more  than  one  oc- 


Page 

Acanthaceae 99,  "5, 125  (2), 

130,  133,  149, 158,  170, 183, 
188,  198,  210,  216,  264,  273,  277  (2) 

Alangieae 106 

Alismaceae 101, 107,  144,  217 

Amarantaceae      .   .  108,  109,  156,  207 

Amaryllideae 105,  108,  109, 

138,140,  142,  147,  148,  164, 
169,  171,  173,  179,  185(21,  190, 

192,    199,  2O3,  2O6   (  2  ),  207,  208,     ! 

215,  229,  231,  240,  247, 254, 280,  285 
Ampelideae  (Vitaceae)  .  no,  162,  195 
Anacardiaceae  .  .  .  .in.  166,  180, 

222,  251,  262,  266,  271 

Anonaceae 113,  122,  123 

Apocynaceae  .  .  .  102,  104, 107,  108, 

no.  115,  132,  152,  153 

178,  222,  231,  254,  275,  278,  282.  284 

Araliaceae 120,  172,  192 

201,  238,  24O,  267 

Aristolochiaceae 121,  123 

Aroideae,  Araceae  .    .   .  100,  107,  109, 

no,  in,  114,  121. 

123,  146, 199,  226,  23S,  24  ,  248, 

261,  262,  266  (2),  270,  272,  275,  28) 

Asclepiadeae 111,123, 

124  140,  149, 157, 

194,  199,  205,223, 246,249,  271.  272 

Begoriiaceas 132 


Page 

Berberideae 106,  130, 

134,  15,5  182,  203,  209,  213,215,254 

Bignoniaceae 102,  110(2), 

135,  154,  160,  180,  208,  276 

Bixituae 128,  136,  296 

Boragineae 111,  122, 

138,  167,  172,  181  (2), 
201,   218,   225,  228,  234  (2),    275 

Bromeliacese 99,  135, 

141,  180,  250, 278 

Bruniaceae 126,  134,  142 

Burseraceae   .    .   .   .  no,  129,  139,  144 

Cacteae 145,  183.  234, 

245,  246,  248,  261 

Calycanthaceae 149,  160 

Campanulaceae     ....  102,  151  (3), 

156,  172  (2),  179, 

209,  216,  218,  225,  249,  251,  259,  278 

Canellaceae 151 

Cap  >aiideae 152,  164,254 

Caprifoliaceae 97,  177,  216, 

217,  219,  265,  275,  281 

Caryophylleae  .    .    .105,121,153,157, 

199,  220,  250,  255,  265,  269,  275 

Casuarinese        154 

Celastrineae  ....  154,  155,  185,  228 
Chenonodiaceae   .    .  132,  139,  235,  271 

Cinch  'naceae 107 

Cistiiieae     163,  201 


3oo 


THE  NURSERY-BOOR. 


Page 

Combretaceae  ....  162  (2),  259,  276 
Commelinaceae  .  112, 166, 172, 177,278 

Compositaae 99, 101  (2), 

105  (2),  106,  108, 
109,  112,  114(2),  115, 

120  (2),  121,  122  (4),  124  (2), 
126  (2),  128  (3),  130,  132,  133  (3), 
134,  (2),  135  (2),  138  (2),  140  (2),  | 
143,  147,  148  (2),  149,  152  (2).  | 

153,   154,  155.   156,  160,  161  (2),    j 
162  (3),  167,  168,  171,  173,   174, 
177,  179,  180  (2),  181,  182,  183,  185, 
186,  190,  191, 198,  199,  201  (3),  202, 
205,  207,  210,  214,  215  (3),  216  (3)' 

220,  222,  228,  233,  238,  239,  241' 
26l,  263,  264,  265,  266,  267,  268,  269, 
270,  272  (2),  275,  276,  28l,  284,  285 

Coniferae 97,120,126,148, 

155,  158,  17°,  171  (2),  173, 

188,  192,  210,  213,  249  (2),  250,  254, 

»    257,  260,  267,  268,  276  (2),  277,  278 

Convolvulaceae 121,  167, 

207,  232,  274   | 

Coriarieae 

Cornaceae  .   .   .  126,  134,  167,  191,  232   j 

Crassulaceae 142,  169  (2),    j 

195,  211,  267  268   I 
Cruciferae    .   .  104,  109,  in,  120,  126, 

130,  136,  138,  145.  MS,  152,    | 
169  (2),  176,  179,  184,  202,  204, 

206,211,  212,  220,  221,  223,  226,  24t, 
245,  259,  262,  267,  279,  28l,  283  (2) 

Cucurbitaceae  .  97,  142,  171,  195,  220, 
224  (2),  226,  257,  267,  271,  278,  283 

Cunoniaceae 101 

Cupuliferae 107,  135,  153, 

160,  168,  186,  238,  258 
Cycadaceae  .   .  157,  172,  178,  182,  285 

Cyperaceae 152,  172,  240   j 

Cyrilleae 173 

Cytinaceae       

Datisceae  .   .   . 175 

Diapensiacese 190 

Dilleniaceae 151,  177,  202 

Dioscoreaceae 178,  276 


Page 

Dipsaceae 266 

Dipterocarpeae 

Droseraceae 178,  180  (2) 

Ebenaceae 178,  246 

Elaeagnaceae      181,  203,  268 

Empetraceae 157,  167,  182 

Epacrideae   .   .  101,  in,  125,  182,  224 

Ericaceae 112,  120,  127, 

132,  148, 154, 164,  169, 
181,  182  (2),  183,  191,  211,  214  (2), 

215,  219,  220,  225,  239,  257,  26l,  283 

Euphorbiaceae 98,  106,  145, 

154, 162,  165,  185, 

202,  203,  209,  222,  248,  254,  262,  272 

Ficoideae     225 

Filices 175,  177,  187, 

220,  238,  251,  255,  257 

Frankeniaceae 189 

Fumarieae.    See  Papaveraceae  . 
Gentianeae    ....  161,  184,  186,  191, 

214,  218,  225,  264,  275 

Geraniaceae 127,  128, 

129,  135,  184,  191,  207, 

217,  226,  238,  244,  279 

Gesneraceae 99,  103,  104, 

128,  134,  177,  192, 

193,  211,  212,  2l6,  229,  230,259,  273 

Gnetaceae 182 

Goodenovieae  .  .  142, 174, 194,  215, 266 
Gramineae 105,  112, 

123(2),  129,  I4I  (2), 
146,  185,  199,  221,  247,  270,  274,  285 

Guttiferae   ....      149,  164,  190,  221 
Hsemodoraceae     .    .113,200,245,265 

Halorageae 199 

Hamamdideae  .   .    .143,189,200,218 

Hydrophyllaceae 230,  246 

Hypericineae 123,206 

Ilicineae    .    .       206,  230 

Irideae 113,  114,  121. 

128,  137,  162,  170  (2),  172, 

188,  I&9,  J92i  202,  208  (2),  223,  230, 

241,  262,  267,  269,  270,  277,  279,  283 

Juglandeae     ....  203,  209,  244,  257 

Juncaceae 147,  210,  284 


ORDINAL  INDEX. 


301 


Page 

Labiatae 103,  106, 

113(2),  129,  131, 

137,  146,  155  (2),  165,  166,  180, 

183, 204,  206,  214,  215,  219, 224,  226, 

231,  245  (2),  246,  248,  256,  263,  264, 

265,  266,  267,  268,  270,  271,  276,  277 

Laurineae  .   .   .  134,  151,  214,  246,  265 

Leguminosae  .       .   .   .  98  (2),  102  (2), 

103,   104,   105, 

106,  109  (3),  no  (2), 

in,  114,  115  (2),  120,  123,  125, 

130  (4),  131,  132,  139  (2),  140,  141, 

142  (2),  144,  146  (2),  147,  149,  150, 

152  (2), 153,  154,  157  (3), 163,  164  (2), 

166,  167,  170,  173,  174,  175,  176, 
179  (2),  181,  184  (2),  186,  190  (21, 
193  (2),  194  (2),  199,  200  (3),20i,  204, 

207  (2),  211,  212,  213,  215  (2),  2l8, 
219  (2),  220,  223,  225,226,  229,  234, 
238,  239  (2),  241  (2),  243,  246,  247, 
251,  254  (2),  256,  257,  262  (2),  268, 
270,  274,  276,  277,  280,  28l,  283,  284 

Lentibularieae 250 

Liliaceae 104,  106,  107,  108, 

112  (2),   114,   115,  122, 
124  (4),  132,  133,  134,  137,  140,  141, 

143  (2),  144,  148  (2),  150,  161   (2), 
164,   165,  166,  174,   175,  176,   178, 
179  (2),  183,  184,  185,  190  (3),  191, 

192,  !93>  2°2    (2),  2O5,  211,  212   (2), 

213,  214  (2),  216,  218,  223,  225,  227, 

229,    234,    238,    241,    248,    255,    257, 

262,  264,  266,  267,  268,  269  (2),  274, 

279    (4), -280,  28l     (2),    284,    285    (2) 


Lineae  .... 

.   .   .  184,  217,  260 

Loaseae    .... 

.    .   .      131,  137,  218 

Loganiaceae  .    . 

.    .   .   .  176,  191,  219 

Loranthaceae     . 

282 

Lycopodiaceae   . 

268 

Lythrarieae    .   . 

171,  212, 

214,  220,  231,  255 

Magnoliaceae   .   . 

.   .   .  180,  206,  210, 

>2l8,  221,  225,  266 

Malpighiaceae  . 

101,  129, 

143,   145,  221,  272 

Page 

Malvaceae 98,  108,  138,  148, 

168,  183,  189,  203  (2),  211,  212, 

213,  221  (3),  226,  2*33,  239,  241,  271 

Melastomaceae    ....  100,  122,  134, 
137,  141, 150,  156, 

157,  172,  202,  213,  224  (2),  252,  270 

Meliaceae 105,  106,  152' 

155,  224,  265,  278 
Menispermaceae   .   .  98,  162,  165,  224 

Monimiaceae 126 

Moringeae 226 

Myoporineae 228 

Myricaceae 166,  228 

Myristiceae 229 

Myrsineae 120,  163,  209 

Myrtaceae 100,  113, 

124,  128  (3),  131,  132, 

148,  149,  150(2),  152,  153, 

174,  185,  199  (2),  224.  225,  229   (2) 

Naiadaceae 115,  238 

Nepenthaceae 230 

Nolanaceae 108 

Nyctagineae 97,  139,  226 

Nymphasaceae       .  145,  230,  232,  282 

Ochnaceae 194,  232 

Olacineae 233 

Oleaceae  ....  161,  189  (3),  209,  216, 

232  (2),  233  (2),  238,  248,  275 

Onagrarieae     .   .    .  162,  163,  182,  190, 

191,  210,  219,  233,  278 

Orchideae  .  .  98,  99,  102,  103,  104,  113 

(2),  114,  115   130,  131,  137,  140, 

141,  143,   144,  146,  149,  150,  155, 

l66,  173,  175,  178,  l82,  212,  22O, 
223  (2),  225,  232,  234,  236,  247  (2), 
265,  271,  277,  278,  28O,  28l,  285 

Palmae 99  (2),  101,  121 

125,  128,  138,  140,  146,  I54> 
158,  165,  174,  178,  181,  186,  191, 

207,  209,  211,  2l6,  2l8,  222,  223, 
233,  234,  240,  248,  249,  251,  256, 
257,  259,  264,  277,  278,  28l,  283 

Pandaneae 190,  240 

Papaveraceae  .   .   .  103,  121,  137,  168, 
176, 182, 184, 190,  223,  240,  262,  265 


302 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Page 

Passifloreae 152,  IQS,  241 

Pedalineae  .   .   .   : 223,  268 

Phytolaccact'ae 249,  262 

Piperaceae 245,  251 

Pittosporese 135,  144,  251 

Plantagineae 98,  251 

Platanacese 251 

Plumbaginese 121,  254,  272 

Polemoniaceae 151, 164, 

192,  219,  248,  254 

Polygaleae 166,  212,  255 

Polygonaceae 143,  148,  165, 

183,  227,  255,  261,270 

Pontederiaceae 181,  255 

Portulacaceas  .    .   .  106,  no,  146.  216 
Primulaceae     .   .   .  in,  112,  127,  166, 

172,  179,  204,  220,  256,  270 

Proteaceae    .   .  102,  104, 127,  129, 198, 

200,  211,  213,   215,   219,  246,  256 

Ranunculaceae    ....  100,  101,  103, 
112  (2),  120,  126,  149, 

162,    163,  167,   175,  183,  202    (2), 
208,212,231,239,259,276,  279,284 

Resedaceae 260 

Rhamneae 134,  155,  166, 

205,  210,  240,  248,  260 

Rosaceae 98,  102,  105,  106, 

107,  109, 116,  iiy,  136,  144, 
158  (2),  161,  168, 169,  176,  185,  186, 
192  (2),  210, 211,  217,  224,  232,  242, 
243,248,  252,  255,  256  (2),  257,  258( 
259  (2),  261,  263  (2),  271,  272,  283 

Rubiaceae 103,  114,  124, 

139  (2),  144,  149,  151, 
155,  156  (2),  160,  162,  165  (2), 

167,  170,  191,  200  (2),  203,  204,  208, 
219,  222,  230,  231,  240,  245,  250,  263 

Rutaceae 100(2),  101,  102, 

103,  105,  107,  125,  131, 
134,  135.  139.  J49.  154.  161, 163  (2), 

168,  170,  177, 178,  184, 193, 214,  217, 
235,  247  (2),  255,  257,  264,  269,  285 

Salicineae 255  264 

Sapindaceae 99,104,212, 

224  (2),  230,  231,  271,284 
Sapotaceae  .  .  121,  131,  162,  208,  265 
Sarraceniaceae 174,  265 


Page 

Saxifrageae  ....  102,  114,  125,  131, 

141,  147,  148,  157,  162, 

171,  175,  176,  184,  189,  194,  202, 

206,  208,  241,  247,  262,  266,  267,  277 

Scitamineae  (Zingiberaceae  .    .   .  108, 

129,  147,  151,  168, 

171,  201  (2),  222  (2),  227,  273,  285 

Scrophularineas 108,  in, 

112,  115,  122,  138, 
142  (2),   147,   156,  157,  158, 

177.  !83, 192, 198,  208,  217,  223,  225, 

241,  245,  26l,  264,  265,  278,  28l      2) 

Selagineae 193 

Simarubeae 142,258 

Solanaceae  114,  126,  157, 173, 175,  181, 
186,  208,  213,  220,  222,  231  (3),  245, 

246,  249     (2),  255,  266,  269     (2),  278 

Sterculiaceae  .   .  97,  124,  125, 140,  211, 
213,  221,  229,  245,  264,  272,  277 

Stylidieae 273 

Styraceae    .  200,  274,  275 

Taccaceae 275 

Tamariscineae 276 

Ternstroemiaceae  .    .   .  101,  138,  150, 

153,  185,  195,  273,  276 

Thymelaeacese   ....  174,  178,  181, 

212  (2),  247,  249,  273 

Tiliactae 99,114,115,121, 

142,  181,  182,  198,  270,277 

Turneraceae 279 

Typhacese 280 

Umbelliferae .  .  100,  101,  112,  113,  122, 
125,126, 144,  156,  160, 167,  170, 177, 
184,  186,  202,  219,  229,  241  (2),  269 

Urticaceae 123, 138,  141  (2), 

T5L  155,  156,  179,  188  (2), 
205,  213,  220,  226,  249,   251,   280 

Vacciniacese 104,280 

Valerianeae 156,  280 

Verbenaceae  .   .  103, 108, 139, 147,  153, 
161,  164,  213,  217,  256,  281,  282 
Violarieae   .  108,  1.11,168,  184,207,282 
Vitaceae.     See  Ampelicieae   .   .    . 

Vochysiaceae 282 

Zanthoxyleae 105 

Zingiberaceae.     See  Scitamineae 
Zygophylkae 198,285 


GENERAL  INDET: 


Page. 

Annular  budding 75 

Bark  g<  afting 88 

Bass     72 

Bell  glass 39 

Bigeneric  half-breed 286 

Bigener,  definition  of 286 

Bigeneric  hybrid,  definition  of.    286 

Budding 67 

Budding,  kinds  of 66 

Bulhel,  definition  of  . 26 

Bulblet,  definition  of 29 

Bulb  scales 28 

Bulbs,  definition  of 25 

Callus 49 

Cions,  cutting 77 

Cion,  definition  of 63 

Cleft  grafting 81 

Cloche 39 

Close-fertilization,  definition  of  286 
Close- pollination,  definition  of .    286 

Corm,  definition  of 29 

Cormel,  definition  of 30 

Cross-breed,  definition  of  .   .    .    286 

Cross,  definition  of 286 

Cross-fertilization,  definition  of  286 

Crossing,  definition  of 286 

Cross-pollination,  definiton  of.    286 

Crown,  definition  of 31 

Crown-grafting 76 

Cuttage,  definition  of 39 

Cutting,  definition  of 39 

Cutting-grafting 91 

Damping-off 22,  27 

Derivative-hybrid,  definition  of  286 

Division 51 

Double-grafting 91 


Page. 

Dressing  of  stocks 69 

Emasculation 291 

Fecundation,  definition  of  ...  286 
Fertilization,  definition  of .  .  286 
Flowerless  plants,  crossing  of .  297 
Flowers,  dioecious 288 

—  monoecious     288 

—  perfect .    287 

—  proterandrous 290 

—  proterogynous 290 

Flute-budding 75 

Free  stock 63 

Fruit-grafting 90 

Graftage,  definition  of 63 

Grafting 76 

Grafting,  definition  of 63 

Grafting,  kinds  of 66 

Grafting  waxes 92 

Green-wood  cuttings 56 

Half-breed,  definition  of .   .   .    .    286 
Half  hybrid,  definition  of  ...    286 

Hard-wood  cuttings 54 

Heel  cuttings  .       .       48 

Herbaceous-grafting 89 

Hybrid,  definition  of 286 

Hybridism,  definition  of  .   .   .   .    286 
Hybridity,  definition  of  ....    286 
Hybridization,  definition  of .   .    286 
Hybridizing,  definition  of  ...    286 
Impregnation,  definition  of    .   .    286 

Inarching 02 

Individual-cross,  definition  of .    286 
Individual  fertilization,  definition 

of 286 

June  budding 73 

Knaurs 56 


THE  NURSERY-BOOK. 


Knives,  budding    .... 

Knives,  grafting 

Layer,  definition  of  ... 
Layerage,  definition  of  . 
Layering,  Chinese  .  .  . 

—  circumposition  .... 

—  mound  . 


Page. 

.   .69 
.   .84 

•  -32 
.   .32 
.    .36 
.   .36 

•  -35 


—  stool  35 

—  pot 36 

—  serpentine 34 

Leaf  cuttings ^60 

Mallet  cuttings 48 

Mallet,  for  grafting 87 

Mongrel,  definition  of 286 

Mule,  definition  of 286 

Offset,  definition  of 30 

Plastic,  for  grafting 92 

Pollination,  definition  of .   .   .    .    286 
Propagating  frame    ....       .   .  39 

Prothallus 297 

Raffia 72 

Regermination 22 

Ring-budding 75 

Root  cutttngs 53 

Root-grafting 76,  77 

Root-tip 33 

Saddle-grafting 79 

Scales  of  bulbs 28 

Scions,  cutting 77 

Scion,  definition  of 63 

Screens,  for  seeds  and  cuttings   .  12 

Seedage,  definition  of 9 

Seed-grafting 90 


Page. 
Seeds,  boring 18 

—  depth  for  sowing 20 

—  freezing       ....          ....  17 

—  Influence  of  light  upon       .   .   .  21 

—  soaking 17 

—  sowing 19 

-  Transportation  of 23 

Self-fertilization,  definition  of  .    286 
Self-pollination,  definition  of    .    286 

Separation,  definition  of 25 

Shield-budding 68 

Side-grafting 80 

Splice-grafting 80 

Spores,  sowing 24 

Stem  cuttings 54 

Stem-grafting 76 

SticK,  of  buds 69 

Stock,  definition  of 63 

Stolon,  definition  of 32 

Stratification 15 

String  for  tying 71 

Tongue-grafting 76 

Top-grafting .   .  76,  84 

Tuber  cuttings 52 

Tuber,  definition  of 30 

Tubular  bedding 76 

Tying  buds 71 

Variety-hybrid,  definiton  of  .   .    286 

Veneer-budding 75 

Veneer-grafting 80 

Wax  for  grafting 92 

Whip-grafting 76 

Whistle-budding 76 


-RSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


301 


